Bugaboo Pics and Words


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la la land
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 19, 2005 - 03:42am PT
For the most part I don't... I just have nothing better to do with my time right now. Well I guess I could go to bed but... this is more entertaining.

Big Wall climber
Lake Arrowhead
Sep 19, 2005 - 02:26pm PT

"Wow, that calls a lot of peoples routes lame! I guess Ammon's big route on Keeler is gay and lame."

What? How did I get dragged into this? Haa haa haa... I installed one bolt in between 13 pitches of climbing (23 total), some natural belays, one and two bolt belays. Most of it goes free with only a couple of pitches of dicey aid.

Anyway, I think Jake and Alik did a great job, from what I can see from the topo. Awesome pics!!! That is too bad about drilling a bolt ladder because of bees, though. No way to get around them?

Keep up the good climbing Jake and heal well bro.

Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Straight Outta Squamton
Sep 19, 2005 - 02:53pm PT
Wow, this thread has the elements of an all-time ST classic! A depiction of what sounds like a bad-ass FA,
including some (apparently) awesome photos––and a spicy flame-war for good measure.
What could be better than this?

I am really looking forward to finally seeing the pics; hopefully soon.
(I can't bring myself to wait the 13-15 minutes for the pics to download)

Time to get a laptop!

la la land
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 19, 2005 - 02:59pm PT
HAHAHAHA, I was just putting your name in there because I knew you had drilled in the "mountains". You sinner! HAHAHA

Well, the way we were going with bees was a good option if I wanted to get attacked! The other option would have in the end put us in a bad spot and required a bunch of drill too. I'm sure the other main aid route has an equal high hole count... that is if you count bat hooks, which by the way are drill next to nice head and beak cracks!

I do have one question, how many of you consider this route lame... http://www.rocknclimb.com/topos/GrandVoyage.jpg ??? Personally I think it is one of the raddest walls ever.

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Sep 19, 2005 - 03:07pm PT
hey biigwalling (aka bringmedeath),

I think you are missquoting me a little. I didn't say your route was lame. It looks like a beautifull piece of stone to climb. Nor do I think routes like the "Grand Voyage" are lame. Hell the Grand Voyage has had me in awe since I first saw it in the JM/JL Bigwall book 12 years ago.

However, I did say i think bolts in the mountains (aka alpine wilderness) are generally lame. That's how I feel when i see a bolt in the alpine. Sure maybe some routes like Ammons are worth a few bolts. However, IMHO drilling a ladder to avoid a bees nest is over the top.

Agree or not, I don't care. Not trying to discredit the worthiness or burliness of your awesome wall adventure. Just stating my stance on the bolting issue.

I too hope your feet are healing. Must suck to get Frostbite in August!

Big Wall climber
Lee NH
Sep 19, 2005 - 07:27pm PT
I got stung by some bees today, my leg feels like it is on fire. A nice slow burn...
I nuked the hive with a gallon of gas. A nice big blaze.

Big Wall climber
The climbing void
Oct 8, 2005 - 04:36pm PT
Jake, Alec, congrats on your climb!!

Don't let lameboner ruffle your feathers, he has a long history of tooling climbers online (Erik,PTPP) maybe he has low self esteem due to the size of his man boobs, I don't know.

Don't know what his problem is,but it's not bolts!

Nice send, you guys ARE the future!!


Social climber
My Subconcious
Oct 8, 2005 - 10:54pm PT
bringmedeath...I just want you to know that I wouldn't wish death on anyone espescially you...you seem like a cool guy...I'm just trying to start a bitching party worldwide...get into it...
Huge Balls

Big Wall climber
Darkside of the Moon
Oct 9, 2005 - 12:21pm PT
Hey Lamboner, I think your gay and lame. Why dont you go climb Glacier peak and give us a call to let us know your alright.

Big Wall climber
The climbing void
Oct 9, 2005 - 09:07pm PT
Forget about it Jake, It's Chinatown!

Oct 9, 2005 - 10:52pm PT
GO FASTER... do it in winter and drytool your way!

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Oct 10, 2005 - 12:56pm PT
"Hey Lamboner, I think your gay and lame."

uh,oh....gay AND lame. sheesh you really hurt my feelings now.

learning from this thread I now carry two cases of beer, and a huge bag of bolts on every climb, just to ensure I can make it to the top!
Huge Balls

Big Wall climber
Darkside of the Moon
Oct 10, 2005 - 09:48pm PT
2 cases? What the hell. How about 44 24oZ OE cans and enough bits to drill your way to the top!!
scotty vincik

up north, these days
Oct 12, 2006 - 05:49pm PT
Cool photos, write up Jake. Maybe you should've brought along socks or something, huh? Watch out for large insects in the cracks. Hope to climb with you again, I'm in AK. Kitchatnas? Yo, Alik.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Feb 5, 2015 - 10:51am PT

The pics are so dang good on the OP.

See for yourselves.
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