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Messages 21 - 40 of total 75 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
alik

Big Wall climber
edmonton
Sep 15, 2005 - 02:46am PT
This was by far the raddest wall I've done so far. I've got to thank Jake for joining me on this adventure. I couldn't have hoped for a better wall partner. The guy belays all but one or two of my pitches from his harness and never complains once. Meanwhile almost all of my belays involved happily swilling away in my sleeping bag inside the ledge. At one point I didn't leave the ledge for 5 days!(2 day belay+3 day storm). suffering in comfort, ahhhhhhh!

Lambone: We did aid some freeclimbable cracks due to cold and snow. The 5th sections are just places where you'll definetely want free shoes. "mandatory free" sections. They're not too hard, but not too easy either...
The big features on the face have all been climbed, or are really loose. Our line was probably the most natural line left on that part of the face, or at least it would have been if it weren't for the bees... The features we climbed actually appeared much more substantial from the ground, than they really were. What we thought would be hand cracks turned out to be beaks. Offwidths turned out to be finger cracks etc.
And hell yeah that's rubber I'm wearing. I figured it would keep me drier than a gore-tex, since it would be too cold for me to sweat anyways. this seemed to be the case for the most part, although gore-tex would have been fine too since most of the precipitation was snow. Plus, you really can't beat the color!
Lambone

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Sep 15, 2005 - 02:58am PT
cool, that's weird about the bees. i have never run into or even heard about bees that high in the alpine, especially when it's snowing out. nice job guys!

would you be able to draw a red line up the face where your route goes so we can see it better?
Cloudraker

Trad climber
BC
Sep 15, 2005 - 10:53am PT
We were in the Bugs during the third week of August and saw a little yellow portaledge on the south face of Snowpatch while we were on the summit of Pidgeon. Tried to post a photo of it last night but it didn't work for me. Anyway, nice work! That's a radical line. Spending 18 days up there must have been awesome.
Russ Walling

Social climber
Sep 15, 2005 - 01:10pm PT
And to think that it all started with a pair of 200 pitch gloves.....

Way to go man! Fine set of Photos too!
Lambone

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Sep 15, 2005 - 02:31pm PT
This is sort-of a loaded question...

Is a bees nest really all the justification one needs to drill bolt ladders up blank faces? Seems like if natural elements shut you down then you try again someother day, not drill your way up the thing.

Sorry, not to ditract from your accomplishment...it does look like an awesome and burly climb. Any mountain ascent with that many bolts just causes a few questions.

Flame on.
bringmedeath

climber
la la land
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 15, 2005 - 02:33pm PT
HAHAHAHAHA, get this... the gloves finally died, I didn't even bring them on the wall but left one at the base. So we are walking to get the last load and down on the glacier I find my glove all chewed up.

Lambone, I would guess we have the most bolts of any Bugs climb. Personally I couldn't care less about how much we drilled. Most hard climbs in the Bugs will require more holes than ours did, if the rock is anything similar. ASTA has a sh#t load of bat hooks, and may in fact have a higher hole count. I also don't take the mountain/alpine additude with me, I view the wall as a bigwall and nothing more. Like Mt Thor in Baffin has route with close to 300 holes! That is still a mountain/alpine type climb too. But ya we brought a more "yosemite" type style to the Bugs.
Mike.

climber
Sep 15, 2005 - 08:57pm PT
Bump.

Thanks for posting the topo, Ty. Super work, man.

You guys are the future, and it sounds like some stuff is gonna get done! Rock on.

m
bringmedeath

climber
la la land
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 15, 2005 - 09:00pm PT
my name is Jake not Ty(buldgingpuke).
yo

climber
NOT Fresno
Sep 15, 2005 - 10:26pm PT
Pitches? 200 pitches? Belches, more like.



RIP haaahahahaha!

Mike.

climber
Sep 15, 2005 - 11:05pm PT
I'm sorry, Jake. I can't keep track of you guys, who lost the TeleTubby, who shreds the FAs, who digs Jody, who plays the guitar, who swills on lead, who...

Thanks for your patience.
bulgingpuke

Trad climber
cayucos california
Sep 16, 2005 - 01:10am PT
Jake/alik you got me all jealous damnit!! I didn't go to school today and spent the whole day gathering up le'pins. Got a direct line scoped out, On North Dome in Kings. I will post back with pictures of my successful or more than likley failure trip. sometime in the next two weeks.
bringmedeath

climber
la la land
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 16, 2005 - 02:14am PT
cool ty, how tall is that wall?

funny thing, those pants I got on in the pic of yo's, they saw more than 50 days of use this summer. F*#k in the past 150 days I've probably worn those 90 of them!
Wrathchild

Big Wall climber
Lee NH
Sep 16, 2005 - 07:27am PT
A tip, try to back off on the drilling, and definately don't spray about drilling. Sponsors don't want to become associated with resource destruction. And the big guys don't want pics of you swilling.
Getting sponsored is the fast track to becoming an A-hole.

If those were the same kind of bees I ran into on the the west face of north Howser, they don't sting.
Lambone

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Sep 16, 2005 - 02:40pm PT
Jake, I am going to pic on you here a little bit...mostly cause I'm just bored at work. You say:

"I also don't take the mountain/alpine additude with me, I view the wall as a bigwall and nothing more. Like Mt Thor in Baffin has route with close to 300 holes! That is still a mountain/alpine type climb too. But ya we brought a more "yosemite" type style to the Bugs."

hhhmmmm...

I'm trying to understand this philosophy but don't quite get it. So, on this climb you didn't take the mtn/alpine attitude with you. Does the "mtn/alpine attitude" have anything to do with the leave no trace ethic in your view? Do you often leave that attitude at home when you go up into the mountains, if so that's too bad.

Second, "'Yosemite' type style" is an interesting concept. In this context I assume you mean something like conqure the mountain with bolts.

I'm no hard ass, and definately not out doing the stuff you are doing, and wish I was...but as an armchair mountaineer, I am most impressed when flipping through Alpinist or some mag and hear about hard climbs going up alpine style with no bolts or very few. That is cool sh#t.

Going up with a huge bag of bolts, avoiding free climbing, averaging 1/2 a pitch per day...well just not as cool. And that's how I think the sponsors will see it.

Anyway, sorry to be negaitive about your climb. Glad you had a fun time up there. Cheers.
the Fet

Trad climber
Loomis, CA
Sep 16, 2005 - 02:56pm PT
Without the bees-nest-ladder about one hole per pitch. Not bad IMO.

To drill up blank (non-living) rock or to destroy a bees nest at altitude that could set the colony back by years. I'd have probably done the same thing. Keep in mind all that drilling sucks to do big time.
yossarian

climber
Sep 16, 2005 - 03:01pm PT
Way to go! Look like you guys had fun. Didn’t seem to long ago I was pulling up the rope on the first pitch of Aberaxas/Golden Arch only to find you forgot to tie in. Looks like you've been busy since.

I now return you to the nitpicking criticisms of armchair mountaineers…
bringmedeath

climber
la la land
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 16, 2005 - 03:12pm PT
avoiding free climbing??? Dude, go and climb the route!
We carried all our trash out, left only rivets and bolts. The Bugaboos have bolts everywhere! The rappel route had chain anchors every 30m, and when we looked around there was bolts all over! I bet there was as many bolts(probably more!) on the Kraus-Mcarthy route as our route has. The Bugaboos are a cragging area in a more alpine enviroment. There is a motherf*#king hut with electricty and running water!

I challenge someone to go and repeat the route in a fast style! I bet you won't get up it in less than 5 days... oh and by then you will have ran out of your good weather window and will be in a Bugaboos storm. Good luck. Oh don't add bolts to the anchors just because you are scared to haul off of the natural gear. When you hit the rappels you will see bolts and fixed pins all over. Those bolts were probably drilled with a power drill too.

Lambone you have been flaming me as long as I've seen your name on the internet. I'm f*#king sick of it! I don't know what you have done that gives you any right to question my abilities and judgement, your aid climbing resume is no where near mine. As you have said to me... either put out or shut up!

Also, maybe I won't post anything about my next adventures. Seems like a bunch of you are flat out idiot lightweights that talk sh#t about something you don't really know about. I'll keep my pictures to myself and only share them with my own friends. Makes sense to me!
bulgingpuke

Trad climber
cayucos california
Sep 16, 2005 - 03:18pm PT
I have drilled before and it's not fun.....If there was EVER a way around this I would take it.
Jake knows his sh#t, Bone, and I KNOW that he wouldnt drill a f*#kin bolt ladder AT ALTITUDE just to have an easy aid pitch.

Bone, you seem to know quite a bit about first ascent ethics,
So know I ask you to list all of YOUR Bigwall FA's here:
~TY~

seamus mcshane

climber
Sep 16, 2005 - 03:36pm PT
Great job on your FA, it looks killer. Nevermind the naysayers they're just bored with their own placid lives. Besides this is a climbing thread, not a political pissing contest.
However, one warning is to avoid sponsorship at all costs (your own) as it is IMHO the fast-track to becoming a prick. Come up with a good written proposal of your objectives (keep them to yourself) and apply for every grant you can. Stay humble and you will go far!!!
bringmedeath

climber
la la land
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 16, 2005 - 03:43pm PT
Ya that is what we are trying to do, I still consider grants sponsorship so that is why I worded it that way. There seem to be plenty of companies that will give you free gear and sh#t and just support the expedition but not call you one of their atheletes.

But honestly most the sponsored people I know seem to be way nicer and more helpful than anyone here. So it's tough for me to believe that it is the track to being an as#@&%e!
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