God's way of saying "Do not touch"

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 51 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Oct 16, 2009 - 01:45pm PT
Use one of Doug's knives as a knifeblade on the Painted Wall, and you'll definitely wish that you'd been struck by lightning.
philo

Trad climber
boulder, co.
Oct 16, 2009 - 01:51pm PT
Wait till you hit one of the 100' bands. Gulp, Pucker, spew!

When John JP Pearson first described the pegmatite technique to me I laughed figuring he surely was joking. But, in fact, you will at some time, have all five fingers delicately pinching five different peg nubs. As they pop off you just move the finger to another knob and keep clutching. You will have to remember to regularly lift the heel of your hand to clear out the accumulated detirus.

TwistedCrank

climber
Ideeho-dee-do-dah-day boom-chicka-boom-chicka-boom
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 16, 2009 - 02:15pm PT
In this age of squeezing routes between routes and pushing the limits of the grid with girdle traverses, let me suggest a pegmatite-only diagonal.

It's an unpicked cherry.

philo

Trad climber
boulder, co.
Oct 16, 2009 - 02:19pm PT
TCrank you are a very sick man!

Isuggested to Steve Su and Mike Pennings that instead of Stratofear they try to free the Forrest Walker.
They whimped and did the "Fear".
Light weights. Ha ha ha.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Oct 16, 2009 - 02:36pm PT
Got halfway up a new route in the Black when I came up against a 7" flare with a surface texture of stacks of potato chips.

Down, and then climbing back out.

Silly me.


But a funny story from the recon.
Jimmy Newberry gave me the beta to solo one of those "islands" on the S rim so that I could scope the line.
From cover I watched as a ranger found my truck and then walked to the overlook looking for the owner.
Unsuccessful he then leans over the fence, looks down the dead vertical wall and calls out, "Hello?"

What a dumbshlt!
Somebody's gonna fall down that and be able to call back???
philo

Trad climber
boulder, co.
Oct 16, 2009 - 02:39pm PT
What wall were you going for Pete?
Willoughby

Social climber
Truckee, CA
Oct 16, 2009 - 03:47pm PT

Or maybe this belongs in the Poison Oak thread...or perhaps even the thread-killer thread.
philo

Trad climber
boulder, co.
Oct 16, 2009 - 09:43pm PT
Hey man God said don't touch.
gonzo chemist

climber
the Orange Curtain
Oct 16, 2009 - 11:10pm PT



Stonefish



dogtown

Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
Oct 16, 2009 - 11:27pm PT
We’ll you have gone over all your reasons not to do the wall. So? Go do it!

Makes it that more sweet!

Dogtown.
philo

Trad climber
boulder, co.
Oct 18, 2009 - 09:20am PT
One of the grimmest "don't touch" stories in the Black was from the mid 70s. Rusty Baillie put a huge load of effort into creating a route up the Painted Wall. On one attempt he went down with Michael Covington. It was so blinding white scorchingly hot that they decided to strip down to their Y-fronts for the approach. Bad idea! After wrestling their way through the tree sized poison ivy they geared up, dressed up and went up. A couple of days up what would later become the Dragon route they were in agony! Inflamed, blistered and itching like dogs their outbreaks were horribly exasperated by the irritation of their harnesses from all the hanging belays. Needless to say they went down and out. Back through all the Poison Ivy again. Talk about misery!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Oct 18, 2009 - 09:37am PT
I talked with Karl Karlstrom about the Dragon wall once, and he was largley not enthusiastic....
Still, I kinda wish the Colonel and I Had, gone after that one....
Roman

Trad climber
Bostonia
Oct 19, 2009 - 06:24pm PT
Is it the large amount of pegmatite or the overhanging nature of it that makes it such a testpiece. God forbid theres overhanging aid up a f*#king pegmatite seam!!!!!.... :-/

philo

Trad climber
boulder, co.
Oct 19, 2009 - 07:02pm PT
Yes all of the above.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Oct 20, 2009 - 04:43am PT
hey there twisted crank, say, the rock sure is lovely to photograph, and gaze on, though.... being that it is made of "do not touch" substance--most likely then, no one is tempted to do so? or if so, with great care?...

nice photograph... very nice...
TwistedCrank

climber
Ideeho-dee-do-dah-day boom-chicka-boom-chicka-boom
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 20, 2009 - 09:38am PT
Some of us used to touch it. Back when we were young, stoopid and had no future. Now we're old, stoopid and are finding out that the future isn't what it used to be.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Oct 20, 2009 - 12:55pm PT
T-crank, dude, that's just messed up wanting that.


heh


I blame Harlin for exposing us all to that massive gouge in the ground. May I never get a serious urge to drive cross country to get in that thing.


may the rock gods have mercy on our souls
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Oct 20, 2009 - 02:58pm PT
I would have much preferred "Nature's Way." The poison ivy and tick issue is vastly overrated- simply walk around the poison ivy and remove the ticks. Great climbing and the reputation seems to attract climbers who would rather climb than whine. I've never seen a post on ST from a climber "complaining" about the rock quality or the protection in the Black. A climb is what it is and climbers have free choice. Complaining or dissing, after the fact, is bad form.
pud

climber
Sportbikeville
Oct 20, 2009 - 04:05pm PT
philo

Trad climber
boulder, co.
Oct 20, 2009 - 04:08pm PT
Cacti mustn't forget the cacti.
Oh to be at Happy Trails bivy in bloom.
Messages 21 - 40 of total 51 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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