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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 16, 2009 - 01:45pm PT
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Use one of Doug's knives as a knifeblade on the Painted Wall, and you'll definitely wish that you'd been struck by lightning.
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Oct 16, 2009 - 01:51pm PT
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Wait till you hit one of the 100' bands. Gulp, Pucker, spew!
When John JP Pearson first described the pegmatite technique to me I laughed figuring he surely was joking. But, in fact, you will at some time, have all five fingers delicately pinching five different peg nubs. As they pop off you just move the finger to another knob and keep clutching. You will have to remember to regularly lift the heel of your hand to clear out the accumulated detirus.
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TwistedCrank
climber
Ideeho-dee-do-dah-day boom-chicka-boom-chicka-boom
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 16, 2009 - 02:15pm PT
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In this age of squeezing routes between routes and pushing the limits of the grid with girdle traverses, let me suggest a pegmatite-only diagonal.
It's an unpicked cherry.
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Oct 16, 2009 - 02:19pm PT
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TCrank you are a very sick man!
Isuggested to Steve Su and Mike Pennings that instead of Stratofear they try to free the Forrest Walker.
They whimped and did the "Fear".
Light weights. Ha ha ha.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Oct 16, 2009 - 02:36pm PT
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Got halfway up a new route in the Black when I came up against a 7" flare with a surface texture of stacks of potato chips.
Down, and then climbing back out.
Silly me.
But a funny story from the recon.
Jimmy Newberry gave me the beta to solo one of those "islands" on the S rim so that I could scope the line.
From cover I watched as a ranger found my truck and then walked to the overlook looking for the owner.
Unsuccessful he then leans over the fence, looks down the dead vertical wall and calls out, "Hello?"
What a dumbshlt!
Somebody's gonna fall down that and be able to call back???
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Oct 16, 2009 - 02:39pm PT
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What wall were you going for Pete?
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Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
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Oct 16, 2009 - 03:47pm PT
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Or maybe this belongs in the Poison Oak thread...or perhaps even the thread-killer thread.
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Oct 16, 2009 - 09:43pm PT
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Hey man God said don't touch.
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gonzo chemist
climber
the Orange Curtain
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Oct 16, 2009 - 11:10pm PT
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Stonefish
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dogtown
Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
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Oct 16, 2009 - 11:27pm PT
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We’ll you have gone over all your reasons not to do the wall. So? Go do it!
Makes it that more sweet!
Dogtown.
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Oct 18, 2009 - 09:20am PT
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One of the grimmest "don't touch" stories in the Black was from the mid 70s. Rusty Baillie put a huge load of effort into creating a route up the Painted Wall. On one attempt he went down with Michael Covington. It was so blinding white scorchingly hot that they decided to strip down to their Y-fronts for the approach. Bad idea! After wrestling their way through the tree sized poison ivy they geared up, dressed up and went up. A couple of days up what would later become the Dragon route they were in agony! Inflamed, blistered and itching like dogs their outbreaks were horribly exasperated by the irritation of their harnesses from all the hanging belays. Needless to say they went down and out. Back through all the Poison Ivy again. Talk about misery!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oct 18, 2009 - 09:37am PT
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I talked with Karl Karlstrom about the Dragon wall once, and he was largley not enthusiastic....
Still, I kinda wish the Colonel and I Had, gone after that one....
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Roman
Trad climber
Bostonia
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Oct 19, 2009 - 06:24pm PT
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Is it the large amount of pegmatite or the overhanging nature of it that makes it such a testpiece. God forbid theres overhanging aid up a f*#king pegmatite seam!!!!!.... :-/
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Oct 19, 2009 - 07:02pm PT
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Yes all of the above.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Oct 20, 2009 - 04:43am PT
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hey there twisted crank, say, the rock sure is lovely to photograph, and gaze on, though.... being that it is made of "do not touch" substance--most likely then, no one is tempted to do so? or if so, with great care?...
nice photograph... very nice...
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TwistedCrank
climber
Ideeho-dee-do-dah-day boom-chicka-boom-chicka-boom
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 20, 2009 - 09:38am PT
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Some of us used to touch it. Back when we were young, stoopid and had no future. Now we're old, stoopid and are finding out that the future isn't what it used to be.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Oct 20, 2009 - 12:55pm PT
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T-crank, dude, that's just messed up wanting that.
heh
I blame Harlin for exposing us all to that massive gouge in the ground. May I never get a serious urge to drive cross country to get in that thing.
may the rock gods have mercy on our souls
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Oct 20, 2009 - 02:58pm PT
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I would have much preferred "Nature's Way." The poison ivy and tick issue is vastly overrated- simply walk around the poison ivy and remove the ticks. Great climbing and the reputation seems to attract climbers who would rather climb than whine. I've never seen a post on ST from a climber "complaining" about the rock quality or the protection in the Black. A climb is what it is and climbers have free choice. Complaining or dissing, after the fact, is bad form.
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville
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Oct 20, 2009 - 04:05pm PT
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Oct 20, 2009 - 04:08pm PT
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Cacti mustn't forget the cacti.
Oh to be at Happy Trails bivy in bloom.
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