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TwistedCrank
climber
Ideeho-dee-do-dah-day boom-chicka-boom-chicka-boom
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 16, 2009 - 11:31am PT
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So now you know.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Oct 16, 2009 - 11:58am PT
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Where is that, Pakistan? Afghanistan?
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Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
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Oct 16, 2009 - 11:59am PT
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Oct 16, 2009 - 12:00pm PT
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Biggest stack of choss on planet Claire.
You wouldn't catch me on that thing.
'cause the anchors would likely blow and we'd both go!
Hey TCrank can I save a copy of that to my desktop?
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Roman
Trad climber
Bostonia
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Oct 16, 2009 - 12:07pm PT
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bluering thats the black canyon in CO
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Oct 16, 2009 - 12:10pm PT
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More Specifically the Painted Wall.
It aint no downstream weenie roast.
Now my hands are sweaty and I've got the DTs.
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nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
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Oct 16, 2009 - 12:32pm PT
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yet another way nature says "do not touch"
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Oct 16, 2009 - 12:36pm PT
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Very good double meaning Nature.
B U T . . .
Hmmm, pegmatite or Nature's uberfine ubercostly sushi knives? Let me think...
Hey can I borrow a knife?
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Roman
Trad climber
Bostonia
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Oct 16, 2009 - 12:38pm PT
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As masochistic as it sounds (IS) my life's climbing goal is to do a wall there.
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Oct 16, 2009 - 12:42pm PT
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Willow - that's hilarious!
GO
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Oct 16, 2009 - 12:48pm PT
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Roman, what route did you have in mind?
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TwistedCrank
climber
Ideeho-dee-do-dah-day boom-chicka-boom-chicka-boom
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 16, 2009 - 12:52pm PT
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I originally titled the thread "Nature's way of saying...".
Then, like a deer in the headlights, saw the thread drift accelerating in my general direction.
Then I thought to myself: "I don't miss poison ivy and ticks"
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oct 16, 2009 - 01:04pm PT
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I think the first one is God's way of saying, Touch.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
obsessively minitracking all winter at Knob Hill
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Oct 16, 2009 - 01:12pm PT
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come on come on come on comeon
now touch me babe
can't you see
that I am not afraid!
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Oct 16, 2009 - 01:15pm PT
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To Quote Yoda;
"But you will be!"
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Roman
Trad climber
Bostonia
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Oct 16, 2009 - 01:20pm PT
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philo, I want to climb The Dragon up The Painted Wall
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Oct 16, 2009 - 01:23pm PT
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Oh Crap Dude you are a masochist!
They don't call it the Yellow Queasiness 'cause it's a purty color.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Oct 16, 2009 - 01:30pm PT
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I had my 15 minutes of Barrovian pegmatite micro-glory during a season down in Glenwood Canyon. Crossing a band of that shit'll put a knot in anyone's knickers. Some of my least fond memories of stacking hexs originated mid-band down in there.
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Roman
Trad climber
Bostonia
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Oct 16, 2009 - 01:43pm PT
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I wouldn't mind doing Southern Arete but I might have to be a lamo and pull on gear.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 16, 2009 - 01:45pm PT
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Use one of Doug's knives as a knifeblade on the Painted Wall, and you'll definitely wish that you'd been struck by lightning.
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Oct 16, 2009 - 01:51pm PT
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Wait till you hit one of the 100' bands. Gulp, Pucker, spew!
When John JP Pearson first described the pegmatite technique to me I laughed figuring he surely was joking. But, in fact, you will at some time, have all five fingers delicately pinching five different peg nubs. As they pop off you just move the finger to another knob and keep clutching. You will have to remember to regularly lift the heel of your hand to clear out the accumulated detirus.
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TwistedCrank
climber
Ideeho-dee-do-dah-day boom-chicka-boom-chicka-boom
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 16, 2009 - 02:15pm PT
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In this age of squeezing routes between routes and pushing the limits of the grid with girdle traverses, let me suggest a pegmatite-only diagonal.
It's an unpicked cherry.
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Oct 16, 2009 - 02:19pm PT
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TCrank you are a very sick man!
Isuggested to Steve Su and Mike Pennings that instead of Stratofear they try to free the Forrest Walker.
They whimped and did the "Fear".
Light weights. Ha ha ha.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Oct 16, 2009 - 02:36pm PT
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Got halfway up a new route in the Black when I came up against a 7" flare with a surface texture of stacks of potato chips.
Down, and then climbing back out.
Silly me.
But a funny story from the recon.
Jimmy Newberry gave me the beta to solo one of those "islands" on the S rim so that I could scope the line.
From cover I watched as a ranger found my truck and then walked to the overlook looking for the owner.
Unsuccessful he then leans over the fence, looks down the dead vertical wall and calls out, "Hello?"
What a dumbshlt!
Somebody's gonna fall down that and be able to call back???
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Oct 16, 2009 - 02:39pm PT
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What wall were you going for Pete?
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Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
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Oct 16, 2009 - 03:47pm PT
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Or maybe this belongs in the Poison Oak thread...or perhaps even the thread-killer thread.
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Oct 16, 2009 - 09:43pm PT
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Hey man God said don't touch.
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gonzo chemist
climber
the Orange Curtain
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Oct 16, 2009 - 11:10pm PT
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Stonefish
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dogtown
Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
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Oct 16, 2009 - 11:27pm PT
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We’ll you have gone over all your reasons not to do the wall. So? Go do it!
Makes it that more sweet!
Dogtown.
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Oct 18, 2009 - 09:20am PT
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One of the grimmest "don't touch" stories in the Black was from the mid 70s. Rusty Baillie put a huge load of effort into creating a route up the Painted Wall. On one attempt he went down with Michael Covington. It was so blinding white scorchingly hot that they decided to strip down to their Y-fronts for the approach. Bad idea! After wrestling their way through the tree sized poison ivy they geared up, dressed up and went up. A couple of days up what would later become the Dragon route they were in agony! Inflamed, blistered and itching like dogs their outbreaks were horribly exasperated by the irritation of their harnesses from all the hanging belays. Needless to say they went down and out. Back through all the Poison Ivy again. Talk about misery!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oct 18, 2009 - 09:37am PT
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I talked with Karl Karlstrom about the Dragon wall once, and he was largley not enthusiastic....
Still, I kinda wish the Colonel and I Had, gone after that one....
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Roman
Trad climber
Bostonia
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Oct 19, 2009 - 06:24pm PT
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Is it the large amount of pegmatite or the overhanging nature of it that makes it such a testpiece. God forbid theres overhanging aid up a f*#king pegmatite seam!!!!!.... :-/
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Oct 19, 2009 - 07:02pm PT
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Yes all of the above.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Oct 20, 2009 - 04:43am PT
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hey there twisted crank, say, the rock sure is lovely to photograph, and gaze on, though.... being that it is made of "do not touch" substance--most likely then, no one is tempted to do so? or if so, with great care?...
nice photograph... very nice...
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TwistedCrank
climber
Ideeho-dee-do-dah-day boom-chicka-boom-chicka-boom
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 20, 2009 - 09:38am PT
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Some of us used to touch it. Back when we were young, stoopid and had no future. Now we're old, stoopid and are finding out that the future isn't what it used to be.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Oct 20, 2009 - 12:55pm PT
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T-crank, dude, that's just messed up wanting that.
heh
I blame Harlin for exposing us all to that massive gouge in the ground. May I never get a serious urge to drive cross country to get in that thing.
may the rock gods have mercy on our souls
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Oct 20, 2009 - 02:58pm PT
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I would have much preferred "Nature's Way." The poison ivy and tick issue is vastly overrated- simply walk around the poison ivy and remove the ticks. Great climbing and the reputation seems to attract climbers who would rather climb than whine. I've never seen a post on ST from a climber "complaining" about the rock quality or the protection in the Black. A climb is what it is and climbers have free choice. Complaining or dissing, after the fact, is bad form.
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville
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Oct 20, 2009 - 04:05pm PT
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Oct 20, 2009 - 04:08pm PT
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Cacti mustn't forget the cacti.
Oh to be at Happy Trails bivy in bloom.
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TwistedCrank
climber
Ideeho-dee-do-dah-day boom-chicka-boom-chicka-boom
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 20, 2009 - 05:00pm PT
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Doowd. That's not just any cacti. That's the devil.
A cousin of mine went to Mexico with a buddy to climb some volcanoes. They ran into a bunch of those cacti who stole their wallets and passports and ripped their faces off and abandoned them with a burlap sack fullk of soiled Tony the Tiger dolls.
I'm just sayin'
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Oct 20, 2009 - 09:49pm PT
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Jim, I have heard some folks (no one on ST yet) spew poo about the chossiness of the Black. Ha ha ha. What did they think it was going to be like the Valley?
Funny thing is they are talking about the heavily traveled trade routes. Those have cleaned up so much it is like they aren't really in the Black. They have NO idea what the routes were originally like.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Oct 20, 2009 - 10:03pm PT
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Yeah Philo, the ST kingdom is composed of granite so when they get on the quartzite on Temple Crag the tighty whities get brown spots.
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reddirt
climber
Elevation 285 ft
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Oct 20, 2009 - 11:09pm PT
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looking fwd to returning... thanks for Casually Off Route, Jim : )
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Oct 22, 2009 - 03:21pm PT
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I still think the Black would be a grand destination for a Sushi-Fest.
Think of the possibilities.
S.O.B. roll
Cruise roll.
Astrodog roll.
Dragon roll.
Hallucinogen roll...
The mind reels.
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Shano
Trad climber
921OB
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Oct 22, 2009 - 03:36pm PT
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after watching "Higher Ground" I wanna climb there, but then again not sure if I ever wanna climb there. Watching that death flake just miss Wharton...
Made my palms all sweaty just watchin' it...
OK yeah, I definitely maybe wanna climb there!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Oct 22, 2009 - 03:39pm PT
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Great idea Philo! The Cali branch of ST can come out and show their stuff and I'll bet the Montana clan would be there in a heartbeat. Count me in if you can twist Nature's arm.
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Oct 22, 2009 - 03:44pm PT
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Jim, it was talked about once and Nature seemed interested but it never came together. I even thought it would be very cool to do it on the 2nd sandbar down by the PW. Can you imagine how fine that would be.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Oct 22, 2009 - 04:12pm PT
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Uh oh philo,
that tie in arrangement is,... suspect.
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Oct 22, 2009 - 07:35pm PT
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Ron, considering the characters involved i'd say that it surely was the usual suspects.
That toon is from our high bivy on the Forrest Walker and it was no where near as comfortable as that looks. But, we did find a can of mystery food stashed in a crack and mostly covered with rock shards. It was obviously old. There was no label and the can was aged from years of exposure to the extreme conditions. It had to be Bill and Chris' from the original ascent. How cool, extra food we hadn't had to carry. Our minds skittered over the endless possibilities of what delightful nourishment waited inside. We finished choking down our usual fair of mashed bagels, hot tuna fish and coagulated cheese and turned our attention to the salvaged can expectantly. Licking the last of the tuna juice off my Swiss army knife lest it contaminate the goods I proceeded to liberate the long trapped yummy something from within.
PFFFFFFFFFFT....Air from yesteryear spewed forth all around us.
PHEW! what a reek! It had a way of saying "Don't Touch".
I can't properly describe it but it was disturbing to say the least.
Once this noxious time bomb had been a can of sliced pineapples.
But untold cycles of baking and freezing on a tiny ledge high above the Gunnison River had turned the once delectable wall treat into nasty blackened carriage washers of fermented death.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Oct 22, 2009 - 09:48pm PT
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You just weren't hungry enough.
I was referring to the clip into the I-go-and-pull-you-too rope arrangement.
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| Messages 1 - 51 of total 51 in this topic |
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