STONEY POINT

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 2161 - 2180 of total 2870 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
FRUMY

Trad climber
Bishop,CA
Dec 24, 2014 - 01:40pm PT
Merry Christmas, You all!
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Dec 26, 2014 - 08:31am PT
....Stoney Point is one of the oldest and most easily accessible sport climbing areas in the region....

rr ... with all due respect, Stoney Point IS NOT A SPORTCLIMBING AERA
at all. Access Fund gets it wrong, again. And the place has never been cleaner, ever, thanks to a whole bunch of local climbers/boulderers who take pretty good care of the place.

The event is most welcomed, because picking up trash is always a good thing to do.

Credit: guyman

Credit: guyman


cheers

OWWOR asked:

If I roll up to Stoney on a rainy day. Some self appointed person is going to tell me I can't be there. Really!!

OK to be there, get your feet muddy, pick up trash, scrub off chalk, but if you start climbing pot-hole, TRing on Beethoven or Pink Drips....then

Hopefully, someone will talk to you about the wetness and the destruction you will cause.

Sort of like what we did with the boys who showed up one day with brand new pads, shoes and a Hammer and Chisel, we set then straight.


rincon

Trad climber
Coarsegold
Dec 26, 2014 - 10:27am PT
If you roll up to Stoney on a rainy day, you'll probably have the place to yourself. And you can still "climb" Hot Tuna, Sculptors Traverse, or a few other overhanging climbs. I've climbed at Stoney in full on downpours before, and got totally pumped and had a blast! Just stay off anything that's wet. For many climbers it's too hard to follow that simple rule though, so in general, most self appointed people will recommend that people just stay away until it drys out.
Onewhowalksonrocks

Mountain climber
In the middle of the ocean
Dec 26, 2014 - 04:02pm PT
I climbed there from 1981 until 2008 when I moved to Ventura.

I know the game. I don't what bothered me so much about the statement.

//" But I have something more pressing....
//
On my way to work , //, on wet streets, there were about 9 cars pulled up to the side of Stony. I saw packs on peoples backs, no pads, I didn't have time to stop and check out what was going on.

I suspect a "meet up" group or maybe one of the GUIDE services who use the place, although I didn't see the marked SUV/VAN/Vehicle they usually use.

I am not familiar with the "meet up" listings. If any of you folks are, please let me know the links, and I will let em know when the point is closed. "
//
The Point isn't CLOSED! Maybe it's the self appointed ruler of the land mind thought that bothers me so much. Who do you think you are Kim Jong-un.

Stoney point is a Los Angeles City Park, there for all to enjoy. When one group of users thinks they own the place and take matters in their own hand is when it could cause a problem with the city. Maybe a less confrontational way to get your point across would be better. Maybe post a sign at each entrance explaining why it isn't a good idea to use the rock while it is wet. I would not be surprised if the city park department would help with this.

I would encourage everybody to visit Stoney Point on a rainy day. It is pretty cool place when it's raining. Just don't climb or rap on wet rock.

During one rainy day a friend of mine and I aid climbed inside of the train tunnel. I also built walls under the 118 at Tampa. Yes that was me.





















guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Dec 26, 2014 - 04:43pm PT
The Point isn't CLOSED! Maybe it's the self appointed ruler of the land mind thought that bothers me so much. Who do you think you are Kim Jong-un.


I am trying to continue the work of Bob Kamps. Bob kept track of the place, he had the phone number to city Parks and Rec, filming division.... I have that phone number now. Film crews must follow the guidelines, no painting on the stone, pick up all litter, no changing of the stones....

The biggest threat now are large groups, like RockClimbEveryday....and other guide services who might not respect, or even know about soft sandstone, and what might happen if they pull on it when its wet.

So I'm sorry if you got a bone stuck in your craw about a "self appointed ruler"... but im not the only one who cares enuf to stop and ask film crews for the permit or to go jump on clueless guides who are only out to make $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

My name is Guy Keesee, I reckon you have no name, cause you only post under some Avatar, and have added no climbing content to the Taco.

Peace to you, Happy Climbing.


Onewhowalksonrocks

Mountain climber
In the middle of the ocean
Dec 26, 2014 - 04:55pm PT
Guy I think I know you. When you started climbing did you climb with a guy named Pete?

























Onewhowalksonrocks

Mountain climber
Ventura
Dec 27, 2014 - 09:30pm PT
Still waiting for your answer.

Just to keep this friendly, ............OH fu00ck. Just go climb in the rain witch is when I first meet you. If you don't know who this is by now you well never know.

mmm
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 28, 2014 - 07:54am PT
Credit: pyro
hey walk on rocks dude ur lame cuzz u won't tell anybody who u are...
You should join us for hotdogs one day and the crew will explain why u don't go to stoney on rainy days...


edit:
Sort of like what we did with the boys who showed up one day with brand new pads, shoes and a Hammer and Chisel, we set then straight

guyman that was a trip! I might have that picture give me some time ill find it..
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Dec 28, 2014 - 10:17am PT
Onewho walks... I might know you, I know a ton of folks, many live in Ventura.

Before you get all upset, please go and reread the part that got you so upset..... I never said don't go there, its closed. What I really mean is this... don't try to climb on the rocks.

And yes I climbed with Peter....

A way back shot.... Peater cranking.
A way back shot.... Peater cranking.
Credit: guyman

Tons of times, he was one of the roommates.

And Mr. Pete Hayes.... but I unfortunately have no pictures of the Master of Maggies Farm.

But OWWOR, if I had to guess who you are, I will need to buy another VOWEL....

Im a little confused cause you have posted some of T-Fish's photos.


pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 29, 2014 - 11:34am PT
we got trolled!

Happy holiday's and happy new year Stoney pointers!!!!
Oso Flaco

Gym climber
Atascadero, CA
Dec 29, 2014 - 12:04pm PT
Dear Stoney Point Locals,

I've climbed at Stoney a few times and really enjoy it; good fun and some awesome bouldering and roped climbs. What are the current bolting ethics at Stoney Point? I climbed on a rope there for the first time last week on Wednesday and noticed that there are a lot of missing anchors at the tops of climbs (holes, bolts without hangers, chopped bolts, etc.). There were solid anchors at the top of many climbs, but wondering why there are so many missing. Is it "vandalism" to the anchors by the throngs of hikers out there or loosening of the mechanical anchors over time because of the soft sandstone or...?
Is the addition of toprope anchors unwanted by local climbers? What about lead bolts for sport-climbing? I saw a comment above that this area is not a sport climbing area. Is this because of the short life-span of mechanical anchors in the sandstone? Would it still be opposed if solid glue-ins were used like they should be used in sandstone?

Thanks, Aaron

guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Dec 29, 2014 - 01:23pm PT
Oso.... for some reason, that I can't figure out, some TRs get good bolts. Some, maybe older classic TR's where the "pro" requires about 60 feet of webbing tied to bushes, dead trees, sandy cracks and the likes... must be protected with the OLD school method. If these get bolts on top, they are removed quickly.... by I don't know who.

The empty holes are testament to the bolt wars that have gone on in the past..... Climber A hates Climber B cause Climber B put in bolts on top of XXXXX so Climber A chops em pissing off Climber B who returns the favor.... this has gone on many many times. It never ends in till Climber A, dies, gets married, or moves to another state or Climber B followes the same path..... sort of like War, pointless.

Some of the holes/chopped bolts were put in by movie projects and ether chopped later or chopped by the movie makers.

When they made 20 seconds of "Cliffhanger" their, the riggers put in lots of bolts, that were all chopped later, by locals.

Back in the mid eighties, some wanted to make the good climbs into sport climbs... check out the prow of Beethoven.... nice deep drilled 1/2 holes just ready to stick glueins in... that was stopped by near unanimous uprising by the active locals. The make sportclimbs voices are now in the minority, they can and did, go to Malibu to do that.

Some placements were made to facilitate slack lining, these are usually left in place/alone if no climbs are effected.

Rappelling bolts and anchors are always removed except for the ones at the top of The Jesus Wall.

Some bolts get placed for Top Rope anchors and they stay.... top of Mozart's wall....maybe a good example of Climber A passing on, so nobody cares anymore.

Bottom line.... its hard to figure. I never bring the drill to SP, although after 42 seasons climbing there, I reckon I could be a good judge of whats right and whats wrong, but I wont even try.

Maybe in a decade or two....
Oso Flaco

Gym climber
Atascadero, CA
Dec 29, 2014 - 01:37pm PT
Guyman,

Thanks for the info, I'll do likewise, keeping the drill at home and just bring gear and a static line to set up topropes. That place could have some sweet sport climbing however.

guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Dec 29, 2014 - 01:42pm PT
That place could have some sweet sport climbing however.

agree... 100%

I am sure some would disagree....

Mike Waugh
Mike Waugh
Credit: Mark Frumkin


Yafer

Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
Jan 1, 2015 - 04:52pm PT
Here we see old 96 in action LAFD next to Pile Ups. Some dude fell off...
Here we see old 96 in action LAFD next to Pile Ups. Some dude fell off of Turlock Boulder off of the Potholes Problem today on New Years 1-1-15.
Credit: Yafer
Yafer

Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
Jan 1, 2015 - 05:01pm PT
Potholes Problem. Apparently the fall victim fell from near the top of...
Potholes Problem. Apparently the fall victim fell from near the top of this problem according to witnesses (witnesses reported a pad being used).
Credit: Yafer
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2015 - 06:59am PT
Thanks for update yafer..
hope climber is okay..
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
Jan 3, 2015 - 07:56am PT
I don't know about sport climbs at Stoney. Except for Jesus Wall everthing is pretty short.

I think if someone had it together and really crafted a good quality route, it would remain. But I can't think of where that would be.

I did lead Savage Slab one time (hence the name). Severely run-out on a couple of manky 1/4 inch bolts. If that buttress was sewn up with SS 4" bolts that were set to take a pounding, it might get climbed once in awhile and no one would be bothered by the improvements.
Yafer

Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
Jan 3, 2015 - 08:41am PT



Don't let this be you!
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Jan 3, 2015 - 09:07am PT
Guy fell off of Turlock Boulder off of the Potholes Problem today on New Years 1-1-15.

Wasn't Guyman I hope,
hope whom ever it was will be O.K..
Messages 2161 - 2180 of total 2870 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Trip Report and Articles
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews