Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
|
|
|
Dec 28, 2014 - 10:17am PT
|
Onewho walks... I might know you, I know a ton of folks, many live in Ventura.
Before you get all upset, please go and reread the part that got you so upset..... I never said don't go there, its closed. What I really mean is this... don't try to climb on the rocks.
And yes I climbed with Peter....
Tons of times, he was one of the roommates.
And Mr. Pete Hayes.... but I unfortunately have no pictures of the Master of Maggies Farm.
But OWWOR, if I had to guess who you are, I will need to buy another VOWEL....
Im a little confused cause you have posted some of T-Fish's photos.
|
|
pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 29, 2014 - 11:34am PT
|
we got trolled!
Happy holiday's and happy new year Stoney pointers!!!!
|
|
Oso Flaco
Gym climber
Atascadero, CA
|
|
|
Dec 29, 2014 - 12:04pm PT
|
Dear Stoney Point Locals,
I've climbed at Stoney a few times and really enjoy it; good fun and some awesome bouldering and roped climbs. What are the current bolting ethics at Stoney Point? I climbed on a rope there for the first time last week on Wednesday and noticed that there are a lot of missing anchors at the tops of climbs (holes, bolts without hangers, chopped bolts, etc.). There were solid anchors at the top of many climbs, but wondering why there are so many missing. Is it "vandalism" to the anchors by the throngs of hikers out there or loosening of the mechanical anchors over time because of the soft sandstone or...?
Is the addition of toprope anchors unwanted by local climbers? What about lead bolts for sport-climbing? I saw a comment above that this area is not a sport climbing area. Is this because of the short life-span of mechanical anchors in the sandstone? Would it still be opposed if solid glue-ins were used like they should be used in sandstone?
Thanks, Aaron
|
|
guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
|
|
|
Dec 29, 2014 - 01:23pm PT
|
Oso.... for some reason, that I can't figure out, some TRs get good bolts. Some, maybe older classic TR's where the "pro" requires about 60 feet of webbing tied to bushes, dead trees, sandy cracks and the likes... must be protected with the OLD school method. If these get bolts on top, they are removed quickly.... by I don't know who.
The empty holes are testament to the bolt wars that have gone on in the past..... Climber A hates Climber B cause Climber B put in bolts on top of XXXXX so Climber A chops em pissing off Climber B who returns the favor.... this has gone on many many times. It never ends in till Climber A, dies, gets married, or moves to another state or Climber B followes the same path..... sort of like War, pointless.
Some of the holes/chopped bolts were put in by movie projects and ether chopped later or chopped by the movie makers.
When they made 20 seconds of "Cliffhanger" their, the riggers put in lots of bolts, that were all chopped later, by locals.
Back in the mid eighties, some wanted to make the good climbs into sport climbs... check out the prow of Beethoven.... nice deep drilled 1/2 holes just ready to stick glueins in... that was stopped by near unanimous uprising by the active locals. The make sportclimbs voices are now in the minority, they can and did, go to Malibu to do that.
Some placements were made to facilitate slack lining, these are usually left in place/alone if no climbs are effected.
Rappelling bolts and anchors are always removed except for the ones at the top of The Jesus Wall.
Some bolts get placed for Top Rope anchors and they stay.... top of Mozart's wall....maybe a good example of Climber A passing on, so nobody cares anymore.
Bottom line.... its hard to figure. I never bring the drill to SP, although after 42 seasons climbing there, I reckon I could be a good judge of whats right and whats wrong, but I wont even try.
Maybe in a decade or two....
|
|
Oso Flaco
Gym climber
Atascadero, CA
|
|
|
Dec 29, 2014 - 01:37pm PT
|
Guyman,
Thanks for the info, I'll do likewise, keeping the drill at home and just bring gear and a static line to set up topropes. That place could have some sweet sport climbing however.
|
|
guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
|
|
|
Dec 29, 2014 - 01:42pm PT
|
That place could have some sweet sport climbing however.
agree... 100%
I am sure some would disagree....
|
|
Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
|
|
|
|
Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
|
|
|
|
pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2015 - 06:59am PT
|
Thanks for update yafer..
hope climber is okay..
|
|
Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
|
|
I don't know about sport climbs at Stoney. Except for Jesus Wall everthing is pretty short.
I think if someone had it together and really crafted a good quality route, it would remain. But I can't think of where that would be.
I did lead Savage Slab one time (hence the name). Severely run-out on a couple of manky 1/4 inch bolts. If that buttress was sewn up with SS 4" bolts that were set to take a pounding, it might get climbed once in awhile and no one would be bothered by the improvements.
|
|
Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
|
|
No it wasn't Guy.
|
|
Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
|
|
Hell of a way to start the new year. Hope all turns out okay.
|
|
guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
|
|
Not me...
Hard to call that side of Turlok, bouldering... its about 30 feet down!!!!
I always think of that stuff as Free-soloing.
but I'm not dead...Yet, but I have had my doubts, the last 4 days hiding under the covers with some sort of flu.... have been hell.
Happy new year to all.
March 8th..... mark your calenders---- Daylight savings time begins.
|
|
Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
|
|
Hoping that someone found my Acopa Spectres by the Pileups. I was climbing Tuesday 12/22 and left after dark. My shoes didn't make it back into my pack.
Thanks,
Sam
|
|
FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
|
|
|
Jan 12, 2015 - 07:29pm PT
|
Sam, any luck with the shoes? I'm going to be around the 18th - the 20th.
|
|
Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
|
|
|
Jan 12, 2015 - 09:55pm PT
|
OT a look back in time to one of the greats. Tom Gilje. On Leave It To Beaver 5.12, Joshua Tree, Ca. Check out his EB's and socks! I was one of those people...so long ago it seems now...
|
|
pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2015 - 08:06am PT
|
nice pic yafer!
were you also one of those that would walk around with a piece of carpet!
|
|
Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
|
|
|
Jan 13, 2015 - 08:25am PT
|
No luck with the shoes. They're an offering to Stoney now.
Wind coming. Rock will be nice and dry in a couple days.
Mark, I'll have your sheriff's hat and some Old Rasputin waiting!
|
|
Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
|
|
|
Jan 13, 2015 - 06:20pm PT
|
I never did that little piece of carpet thing.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!