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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jul 19, 2014 - 09:02am PT
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!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Farouk
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!What did ya climb?????????????????
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!IT HOT???????????????????????????????????????????????
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!PICS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!C-YA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jul 23, 2014 - 02:49pm PT
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I was really happy to see Greg Olsen show his face at the point last Tuesday.
Last year Greg had a pretty big stroke. And he said to me, "last year was a pretty hard year for me"
Great to see you back on the stone my friend.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Jul 23, 2014 - 03:16pm PT
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Gregg is the sh#t. Inspiring in so many ways. Glad to know him as a friend/musician/climber.
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Beta-pete
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, Utah
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Jul 27, 2014 - 12:55pm PT
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That "Freeway Crack" went free, laybacking at stout 5.10, when I did it with Mike Guardino back in '86. It had been free climbed for many years. Then the Gargoyle & I pushed a new little thing up the face above, naming it "The G-Spot", which ticked in at mid-ish 5.11. We set up a TR on both using Lost Arrows I drove into the scant cracks on the summit block. I removed the pins, so there was no fixed anchor. The Freeway crack is one of the best of its kind for Stoney Point, nestled in the afternoon shade far from the crowds and hidden from the highway noise. Since very few have climbed it, it is free of the grease many of the other cracks hold in the back canyons of the main area to the south. Combining the layback crack with "The G Spot" makes for a long-ish, pumpy climb that would be very popular...were it not for the location and the lack of a convenient anchor.
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Beta-pete
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, Utah
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Jul 27, 2014 - 07:38pm PT
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Back in 1987 a new 5.12 TR went up on the overhanging wall left of "The Prow". Quickly, "Vicious" became rather popular, for it offered a place to work the power needed to go "up", which was not to be found in the countless traverse routes common to the area. We'd wait for the cool afternoon shade and run laps on it for power-endurance training. My record was 5, and the object was to lower as fast as possible to minimize the "rest" between laps. Mike "Gargoyle" Gardino, John "Yabo" Yablonski and I made the FA of a route that shared the start with "Vicious", but headed up a dark ramp up and left. "Walk the Plank" ticked in at 5.12-, but unlike its neighbor, the top was a series of insecure moves on inobvious slopers...it never became popular. Here's a shot from 1989 of me running lapse on "Vicious". I hear the place is infested with nasty bees...sounds like time to get the exterminator![photoid=369868]
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 28, 2014 - 07:59am PT
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thank's beta pete
Back in 1987 a new 5.12 TR went up on the overhanging wall left of "The Prow". Quickly, "Vicious" became rather popular, for it offered a place to work the power needed to go "up", which was not to be found in the countless traverse routes common to the area.
the back wall area is awesome!
Mike Waugh added/replaced the bolts for ease of Tr set up.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jul 28, 2014 - 10:03am PT
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Pete.... The Freeway now has some bolts up on top... one need some long runners to rig it properly.
some photos way up thread.
thanks for posting....
do you ever get back to the SFV?
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Beta-pete
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, Utah
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Jul 28, 2014 - 10:39am PT
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This image better shows the overhanging nature of "Vicious". Here is Peter Hayes entering the crux on a lap session one afternoon back in the fall of 1989. "Walk the Plank", .12-, confronts the bald face above the little black pillar at the end of the "ramp" to the left. The Gargoyle, Yabo & Peter did the FA of that in the same year, but it never achieved the popularity of "Vicious", the climb that shared its start.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 28, 2014 - 02:17pm PT
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Aug 12, 2014 - 05:11pm PT
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The Sea Breeze started kicking up about 2:30 today in Chatsworth.
Takes the EDGE ofF of the heat.
Hope to see you all - esp FAROUK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
DUDE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Aug 13, 2014 - 08:06pm PT
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Some hard stuff on that back wall. Every few years or so some chalk appears.
Watched an out-of-town guy onsight lead that disintegrating flared crack. He was goooooood. (late 80's)
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 14, 2014 - 07:31am PT
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spider top rope season is right around the corner ill let ya know!
which crack do u speak of?
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Aug 14, 2014 - 08:27am PT
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The flared one that is greased with ancient bee's wax. Only goes up about 20 ft. You gotta be damn strong.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 14, 2014 - 10:24am PT
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ok kool! the back area has some old obscure climbs..
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Aug 15, 2014 - 01:56pm PT
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Farouk..... don't know, top ropin anit Bouldering.
All the girls were bouldering at B1 and Turlock... That is where I was hanging.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Aug 15, 2014 - 02:00pm PT
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Pyro... We are looking to do a hot dog BBQ maybe next thursday, 21 or the next 28.... think you could make it on one of those dates??
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Aug 15, 2014 - 02:15pm PT
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There is a good chance I might make it there on the 21st but not the 28th.
More Tuolumne for a week starting the 28th.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Aug 15, 2014 - 05:02pm PT
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It will be on THURSDAY 8-21-2014
I will make preparations.
Any body have a lap-top? We could show the Stoney Point DVD.
If one has never been to one of these little BBQ's you need:
Bring your own dogs, and Buns.
Bring a side dish. Chips, Salsa, whatever you want to share.
I will have extra, Mustard, Relish, etc....
And a BBQ, Table....
BEER IS A MUST
see you all.
EDIT TO GET THE DATE CORRECT
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Aug 18, 2014 - 01:40pm PT
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Eric has pledged his BBQ....
So now its really ON
tell your friends.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2014 - 02:03pm PT
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i'm sure the Zamboni could contribute some fresh ice to this BBQ party!!!!
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