STONEY POINT

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bubble boy

Big Wall climber
T100
Jan 27, 2010 - 06:33pm PT
Thanks. In town this w.e. so see you there!
somethingurnot

Social climber
the Pink Dildo
Jan 28, 2010 - 08:05pm PT
FYI:
I went to the stoney point this morning and would like to say that the sandstone rock in shady locations is still wet, however the sunny stuff is super sticky!
cleaned by the rain..... and super sticky!
i'll smoke one for ya!!!
love this thread PYRO!
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2010 - 08:38am PT
just a friendly hello!
just a friendly hello!
Credit: pyro
somethingurnot

Social climber
the Pink Dildo
Jan 30, 2010 - 08:55am PT
thanks for the post pyro.
i'll be there today and tomorrow.
i'll smoke two for ya!
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 31, 2010 - 04:32pm PT
just another activity that we like to do at Stoners point!
phot taken sept15/09
 high liners at  &#40;between sculpters crack and mozarts&#41; the bac...
high liners at (between sculpters crack and mozarts) the back.
photo taken a few weeks ago.
Credit: pyro

Credit: pyro
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2010 - 08:06pm PT
Just some good temps for this week.
photo not found
Missing photo ID#144003
stick'n to the amphitheater because its warm.
stick'n to the amphitheater because its warm.
Credit: pyro
Steve spotting Zack while Guy traverses and spectators watch.
Steve spotting Zack while Guy traverses and spectators watch.
Credit: pyro
Credit: pyro
Credit: pyro
enjoy!
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2010 - 08:49am PT
just read this thread and watched the clip.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8qOlFRW0hZI

thank-you tarbuster for posting!

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1073956/Largo_Lynn_Dave_Katz_TV_short_Early_80s

cheers!
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 6, 2010 - 08:40am PT
just a friendly reminder!
stay off the sandstone rock for at least five days after a good soakin...
stay off the sandstone rock for at least five days after a good soaking. thank-you!
Credit: pyro
this weekend is soaked.
drink beers instead.
cheers!
BooDawg

Social climber
Paradise Island
Feb 6, 2010 - 11:13am PT
I first visited Stoney with unknown friends as a young pre-teen in the late 50's. Growing up in Canoga Park, it was a place to cruise & scramble around just for the fun of it. I remember once seeing some climbers, probably the Sierra Club RCS (Rock Climbing Section), with ropes and commenting to a friend that they would certainly be killed doing that kind of climbing. Little did I know what was to come.

I used to go bowling with my brother, Philip, and mom, Marjorie, fairly regularly on Sundays at the local bowling alley. One day during the winter of 1960-1961, my dad, Robert, showed up unnannounced and announced that the RCS was having a practice climb at Stoney and that my brother and I were going with him. We had been spending the previous two family summer vacations camping in Yosemite. In 1959, my dad, brother and I hiked up the cable route on Half Dome. The following summer, we three hike up Mt. Dana. It was Dad's ambition to climb Mts. Lyell and Ritter the next summer (which we did) and he felt that we needed roped climbing skills and equipment to do it safely. So we went with him to Stoney Point, and a whole new world opened up to me. The rest is history, so to speak. I never asked Mom how she felt about that day because we never went bowling with her again.

I've known Dennis Hennek since 8th grade (1958), by 1961 we were in high school (Canoga Park HS) together, and about then we began going to Stoney Point every Saturday and Sunday and sometimes even after school. One day in the hall at my locker, Dennis and I were talking about climbing whild I was holding "A Climber's Guide to the High Sierra" in my hand. An unknown student, Russ McLean overheard our conversation and stopped to introduce himself. I guess we were a little stand-offish, and Russ felt rejected, but soon we met him again at Stoney, and others in our high school class joined us three on our weekend forays to Stoney.

We three graduated from high school in 1963, and that summer, in addition to a climbing trip to the Tetons with my father and brother, I did a hike into Bullfrog Lake over Kearsarge Pass from Independence, CA. From that lake, there's a lovely view of Mt. Brewer in the distance, and I greatly admired its nearly 1000' unclimbed face, and I set my sights on it. I'd never climbed anywhere but Stoney Point until then, so Russ and I took a quick trip to Tahquitz where we did two moderate climbs but were able to practice swinging leads on a real multi-pitch climbs. Late in the summer, carrying ropes and hardward we hiked (in our "kettershoes")to Bullfrog Lake where we found, by sheer coincidence, Dennis and his brothers fishing by the lake. After a short visit with them, Russ and I continued on and eventually set up a camp near the base of the Mt. Brewer's NE face. That's a story for another time. But after our successful ascent, the summit photos (not scanned yet!) show both Russ and I wearing our high school senior sweaters. Go Thorians [CPHS Class of S'63]! LOL!

I'm still organizing what I can see will be a massive scanning project; so far the only two pix from Stoney Point that I've done are of Don Lauria. One, dated 1965, shows him doing what I think was the second ascent of the "Boche Death Route." Is that route even done any more? The other, dated 1968, shows Don practicing aid on what we called in those days, "The Ski Tracks," two parallel cracks on the walls of one of the gullies on Stoney's backside.

Somewhere I have slides of a "Traffic Diversion" that the UCLA Bruin Mountaineers did to the traffic one Friday afternoon during the construction of the new Freeway that now goes by Stoney. That, also, will be for another time.
Dennis Hennek, 1966, Stoney Point
Dennis Hennek, 1966, Stoney Point
Credit: BooDawg
photo not found
Missing photo ID#144436
Don Laura aid climbing at Stoney Point, 1968
Don Laura aid climbing at Stoney Point, 1968
Credit: BooDawg
BooDawg

Social climber
Paradise Island
Feb 6, 2010 - 11:19am PT
Don Lauria, 2nd ascent of "Boche Death Route" &#40;?&#41;, 1965.
Don Lauria, 2nd ascent of "Boche Death Route" (?), 1965.
Credit: BooDawg
rincon

Trad climber
SoCal
Feb 6, 2010 - 12:04pm PT
Nice pics and story BooDawg!!

In the first pic of D.L., he's on Sandblast, 5.11c. it's right next to Sculpters Crack. Still trying to figure out where the Boche Death Route is though.

Looking forward to see more of your pics!
Don Lauria

Trad climber
Bishop, CA
Feb 6, 2010 - 11:14pm PT
The Boche Death Route went from right to left up and across the blank west face (the "Front Wall" as tagged in the Stoney Point Guide 1982) of Stoney Point. The photo of Pyro's at the top of this page shows the Front Wall quite clearly - it's directly above the left edge of the oak tree behind Slant Rock.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2010 - 12:31am PT
rincon,
it's gotta be that stuff on the jesus wall...? right of the non-exist bolt ladder:you start on the 5.7 crack then clip a (chopped or missing) bolt and traverse left in the pinscars then straight up?
BooDawg thanks!

guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Feb 7, 2010 - 08:34am PT
BooDawg...... very nice. Please keep adding shots and names. We are trying to get the whole history of the Point written down. So many climbers have stories similar to yours. One day they went to Stoney and their life changed forever..... mine did for sure.

Ever get out there now?????

Edit..... is he leading the Boche Death root????
BooDawg

Social climber
Paradise Island
Feb 7, 2010 - 10:43am PT
Yes, Lauria is leading the route; one can see the rope and crabs leading up from the center-bottom of the pic.

Living on Hawaii Island, I don't get to SoCal much, tho last time I was there, McLean and I went out and enjoyed part of a day on the rocks.
rincon

Trad climber
SoCal
Feb 7, 2010 - 02:52pm PT
Stoney bump!
somethingurnot

Social climber
the Pink Dildo
Feb 7, 2010 - 07:17pm PT
this thread amazes me
"i hung out at the Manson caves these past rainy days!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 8, 2010 - 10:00am PT
Very cool thread!
Refreshes the old memories nicely.

The Fish in the late 70s, Turlock:


photo, Doug Munoz
BooDawg

Social climber
Paradise Island
Feb 8, 2010 - 04:26pm PT
"Pave paradise and put up a parking lot" !!

This 1965 pic was taken near Stoney,
Spring CA poppies near Stoney Pt., now erased by freeway.
Spring CA poppies near Stoney Pt., now erased by freeway.
Credit: BooDawg
and the location has now been erased by the "new" freeway and the realignment of Topanga Canyon Bl.
BooDawg

Social climber
Paradise Island
Feb 9, 2010 - 05:24am PT
Almost visible in the first photo is that Old Topanga Canyon Blvd used to make a large S-Turn as it passed by Stoney Point and over a railroad tunnel before heading west over the pass to Simi Valley. If you look closely, you’ll notice that the cars on the inside of the bend are all bunched up, creating a break in the traffic. This event took place around April Fool’s Day, 1969 when Team #1 the UCLA Bruin Mountaineers (who frequented Stoney for climbing practice) brought 5 of their cars and some “borrowed” orange highway cones plus a detour sign to the area.

Lower part of S-Turn directly below summit of Stoney Point.
Lower part of S-Turn directly below summit of Stoney Point.
Credit: BooDawg

Above the S-Turn, where a small road led off into a maze of roads where there were widely scattered houses, Team #2 was waiting with the cones and detour sign for the break in the traffic to arrive.

Team #2 lurking by the road, waiting for the break in the traffic.
Team #2 lurking by the road, waiting for the break in the traffic.
Credit: BooDawg

When the break arrived, they quickly set up the sign and the cones to block the highway and divert the afternoon commuter traffic into the maze of roads which had only one obscure outlet.

Team #2 lays out the cones and detour sign.
Team #2 lays out the cones and detour sign.
Credit: BooDawg

When the sign & cones were in place, the Team #1 drivers of the 5 cars led the commuter traffic up into the maze. Knowing the obscure route out, the drivers drove out around the back side of Stoney Point and walked up the back side to join Team #2 who had walked up there after setting up the sign and cones. For more than an hour, the maze of roads was a horrific traffic jam. The highway department came and opened up the road, scratching their head all the while.

The UCLA cars lead the traffic back into the maze of roads.
The UCLA cars lead the traffic back into the maze of roads.
Credit: BooDawg

We knew that these were futile efforts at resisting "progress," but it was sure fun to organize resistance anyway...
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