Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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The roof in the pic to the right of the climber is the one JW35 is talking about. But it's not up by the freeway, it's right next to hot tuna. If you park at the top end of stoney and walk towards Scuptures and those routes it's like the first spot you'd come to on the right.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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YES, That is the one.
Back when Wild Jim Wilson was really wild... he would try and get you to do it. After you backed off it , Jim would just float the thing.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 4, 2012 - 09:13pm PT
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i've seen mike flood aid/lead that wilson roof. i have been up the mikey mouse problem along with the tuna traverse.
great read!
Edit: life is a bivouac aka: russ Mclean glad ur happy in bishop! i'll keep the stoney pic flow'n.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Pretty nice weather this last week...
Stoney is good to go for this weekend, for all that care.
thanks
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BlueWing
Sport climber
SCV, Ca
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A good day on the S-Crack at the front wall yesterday.
Perfect weather ... calm,clear and cool.
Boy Scouts, Photo Shoots and LADF paramedics.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dec 12, 2012 - 09:59am PT
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Starting to Rain...... in Chatsworth.
Stoney is closed for a day or two.
BlueWing... last nite, there was nitetime climbing action on the Jesus Wall
and the S-crack.
Was that you???
T-fish??
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BlueWing
Sport climber
SCV, Ca
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Dec 12, 2012 - 10:24am PT
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Hey ...
No, I can't get away from work during the week
That may have been the guys in my pix ... Alex?
I met them last Sat ... they said they may climb Tues nite
BTW ...
there are bees about half way down the S-Crack, 12' off the rt side
they didn't even notice me when I was there on Sat
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Dec 13, 2012 - 02:45pm PT
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I remember bees back in the 60s and 70s up there. Is S-Crack the long one? Seems like we called it CS Crack - stood for Chicken Sh#t I think.
Here are some photos I just got back from the lab. First one here is Greg Bender on Turlock about 1970. That's Dan Wourt on the left on the ground and Richard Poust.
Below: This one is Greg Bender trying to free the main face at Stoney and the one below that is me up higher with Greg in the foreground. I don't remember who took the photo. I have another slide I will try to find of me higher up on the wall. I did not make it all the way though and we never got it together to set the ropes up again. These are from about 1970 also.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dec 13, 2012 - 04:43pm PT
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Dan... nice shots... the s crack is the long one on the left.
I do recall it being "CS" crack.... not to much goes on on the big face, the better climbing is around back.
Greg Bender.... I wonder what happened to him?
When I started climbing he owned the place, along with Ken McNut, Mark Clemins (sp?)and Bob Kamps.. John Bachar wanted to do "all the mantles" that they could do.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Dec 13, 2012 - 04:47pm PT
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Bender was in Arizona last I heard. I ran into him at a bouldering contest there about 1989 maybe.
There should be routes all over that face at Stoney by now.....get to it gang! Here are a couple more aid shots from around back. I'm the guy in the silohuette shot, did a hanging belay there for shot number 2 of Dick James.
Dick James cleaning below
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paul roehl
Boulder climber
california
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Dec 13, 2012 - 04:51pm PT
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I remember Bender out at Stony in the early 70s. The guy had remarkable technique... really learned a bunch by watching him. He seemed to disappear for a while and when I saw him again he'd put on a lot of weight but was still doing these really difficult problems with perfect static grace like some kind of Ti Chi master. Great pics thanks for posting them.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Dec 13, 2012 - 04:54pm PT
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Yeah, Bender had some kind of mysterious force he could tap into. He was into chi and that sort of thing. I did not learn that stuff till later. My mantra was Strength is Technique! We always joked about our different approaches.
I had a funny rememberance while climbing at the Alabama Hills this Fall. I was looking down at the dirt on the ground at the start of a climb and realized I was thinking some thought about the dirt. I realized I was unconciously suppressing an urge to but my hand in the dirt - that's what we used to do before chock came along!
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Dec 17, 2012 - 09:12pm PT
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Nah Guy, that wasn't me on the Jesus Wall. I've been being a gym rat for the past few weeks.
I did this a few months ago though. McHale, you got any shots from this route? Its Just north of Stoney but right before the freeway.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Pebble Wrestling.... Badly lately.
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Dec 17, 2012 - 09:18pm PT
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That crack goes free at 5.10 now.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Dec 17, 2012 - 09:42pm PT
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I know, I tried to lead it onsite like a year ago and decked from maybe a foot below where I'm at in that pic. So now I just aid it and TR it.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Dec 18, 2012 - 01:00pm PT
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TFish, got a bigger pic of that area? It still looks like part of Stoney there. Not sure where you mean. Doesn't look familiar though. Somehow the Bird sh#t looks familiar!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dec 18, 2012 - 01:09pm PT
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Dan... it's about 200 yards north of the RR tracks, east side of Topanga Canyon. A old one lane paved road runs along the base.
Someplace on this thread, there are more photos of the climbs.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Dec 18, 2012 - 02:41pm PT
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It's right there, you walk up to the old paved road and then up a short trail. It's a crack in a dihedral and then you kinda top out and traverse right and then go up another short crack in another dihedral.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 18, 2012 - 06:25pm PT
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Dan these pics are fantastic! i knew you could share. thanks for taking the time.
did you buy those pitons from the mtn shop just down the road?
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Dec 19, 2012 - 06:36pm PT
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Is that an old add for an old store? Let's see, I probably bought pitons from Westridge and the Mountain Store back in the day.
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