STONEY POINT

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McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Dec 1, 2012 - 04:17pm PT
Hey Russ, I always wanted to go to Pierce College! I mentioned earlier in a post that we had a half acre in Chatsworth with a couple quarter-horses, angus cattle.....and then we moved to Tarzana where we had 4 acres for things to spread out. That's when I started climbing and lost my interest in the animals! The closest I ever got to Pierce was jogging and driving by it. It looked like a really cool place.

I'm sure I would have loved pounding on pitons while making them - metal rules! I got into making chockstones when I moved up to San Jose and wanted to do that for a biz and then Chouinard came out with his Hexentrics and it kinda took the wind out of my sails!

I've got a Stoney route for all you guys to talk about. Way around back but closer to the freeway side there is a ceiling close to the ground that can be under-clinged (a very good finger crack) and traversed but your face and upper body are crammed real hard against the ceiling. I did that once - its rating has to be up there a ways but it is pretty basic - did it first try more or less - free of course. I remember Keith Schwartz being there and trying it and he could not do it so it can't be too easy. It's pretty much like the upper horizontal part of the Great Roof on the Nose, but with a better finger crack. Seems like the area for the feet is pretty featureless except for friction on a 90 degree wall. The ceiling is 90 degree also.

I did not see the Undercling in the Stoney Point DVD. Great DVD by the way!
toadgas

Trad climber
los angeles
Dec 1, 2012 - 05:49pm PT
-

since 1977 I always wondered about those hundreds of old pin scars at Stoney, now it's fun to hear who hammered them into existence


then again, pitons have been placed there since the 1930s, I imagine.



-
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Dec 3, 2012 - 04:10pm PT
The Pin scars.... turn into climbs!

The Sun showed its face today about 12 noon.....

Might be OK by Thursday, if we get some more sunny and 70.

Several key holds have already broken off this season...

The big undercling on Masters.... but it still goes.

DAN.... you don't mean "Hot Tuna" as the overhang?

When you get down here, we can take a little walk.

We also need to determine if Yabo Mantle goes one handed... some of the youngsters are very skeptical.
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Dec 3, 2012 - 04:28pm PT
That area of Rock 1 has changed a bit in 40 years but the basic mantle is still there in the Stoney DVD. There's no way I could do that now of course being the ripped apart old man I am. I'm sure I could do it 2 handed though. There used to be a good solid undercling below the mantle that was relatively easy to get to one handed, and then the move to the shallow handhold in the face of the mantle was a not that hard (slightly dynamic) but the crux was pulling into the mantle one-handed and doing that. I used to be able to do one-arm chinups, and muscle-ups without kipping, and mantling was something I specifically trained for - one handed. I've been watching for mantling moves in modern bouldering videos and have not seen much, like it's a little out of style. There was a mantle high on the west side of Rock 1 in the old days called the Chouinard Mantle. It used to be 5.10 and I would do that unroped all the time - even jokingly down-rated it to 5.7.

Were is Masters? Can you post a photo? If you knew about the undercling round back you would know what I'm talking about. It might just be hidden under brush now. I had a route I put up out at Santa Susana Park called Drop Dead Traverse that was on a nice little wall at the back of the park. I was there a couple years ago looking for it and it was all grown over and unrecognizable.

My mantle on Pea Soup at the Needles is probably harder that I realized at the time, especially considering I did not get the bolt in until after I did it. It's off to the left of were the modern easier version goes, out left from the tree at the end of the first pitch that goes free now. I did not do that first pitch free but may have made up for it on the face climbing up there to the left of the alcove belay. The mantle is a small slopping cone that sticks out a couple inches in a steep face and there are no holds above or below, after the mantle is done you have to get your foot onto it by of course standing on the hand first. I had to get a bolt in that hard Neddles rock while standing on that little sloping sucker. I only got it in halfway and tied it off. The next move was to let my upper body slide across the friction of the face a foot or maybe more to get to a right hand hold - kind of a slow motion dyno (no way to reverse the move) without knowing if it would work - but it did.

I'm having more Stoney black and whites made to post here - maybe in a couple weeks. Yeah Guyman, it would be fun to get down there - maybe next Fall - I'm training harder than I have for quite a few years!
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Dec 3, 2012 - 05:02pm PT
Pea Soup..... My first Bar-B-Q....

M. Pope and I did that thing back in 74..... aid of course.

We became benighted just below the good ledge on P5 (?) and spent a night out in June at the Needles in t-shirts.... can you say nOObs. We did FREE the aid pitch (the last aid on the climb)off of a big ledge cause we were in a hurry- we had dropped our water that nite and tossed the food (saltine crackers)... we were very nOOb.

I have Free Climbed the first pitch.... it's really fun and burley. The last 60 feet are very interesting. The next is A3 . stacked KnifeBlades... still. This pitch has some FREE climbing right in the middle, I have a angle with "FB" painted on it that I cleaned from a small hole in the middle of that pitch.

Cant wait to see photos...
hooth

Boulder climber
Sconnie
Dec 3, 2012 - 05:24pm PT
no tuesday for sure guyzo?
G_Gnome

Trad climber
Pebble Wrestling.... Badly lately.
Dec 3, 2012 - 07:25pm PT
It rained hard for days, I would think even Thursday is iffy unless it is warm and sunny the whole week. Pull gently on those holds for a while.
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Dec 3, 2012 - 07:52pm PT
I've been looking more closely at the Yabo Mantle and found this pic. If he (Marc Perry) is mantling just on the sloping platform with no hold, that's not what I'm talking about. One-handed I used the hold up and to this climbers left.
Credit: McHale's Navy
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Dec 3, 2012 - 08:58pm PT
DAN.... you don't mean "Hot Tuna" as the overhang?

What Dan is describing - being an undercling like the upper part of Great Roof - does not sound like Hot Tuna. I can't figure what he's talking about, it'll be interesting to find it.

Someone will know...
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Dec 3, 2012 - 09:06pm PT
I just looked up Hot Tuna http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TpSUn0Zo0x0

It's not Hot Tuna and it's not that long but it is a ceiling like that, but flatter, and has a crack that going straight up into the corner. It gets traversed, it's not a climb out and over the ceiling.

This must be what I did one-handed on Rock 1 (different undercling than the one above that's like Hot Tuna) but the lower part I'm sure is a bit different now and the undercling may not be as good as it used to be, but it does not look like the mantle hold has changed much;

Undercling - V2
Average Rating : 3.25 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (10)

Only other person I knew of that did this one-handed was Bob Kamps.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Dec 4, 2012 - 08:07am PT
Dan.... that Mark dude is doing Yabo Mantle, and if he is using the little cut hold with his left hand.... it dosen't count.

Trying hard to recall a roof with a crack comming through it. Not much like that at Stoney.
The WET WEATHER STATUS REPORT: A very wet and cold morning here in Chatsworth.

Climbing is CLOSED....

I will update WED am....

Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Dec 4, 2012 - 08:33am PT
a roof with a crack comming through it

The way I read Dan's description is that it is a roof with a crack across the back going up in at the joint of the wall with the roof, creating a feature which can be traversed by undercling.

I've got a Stoney route for all you guys to talk about. Way around back but closer to the freeway side there is a ceiling close to the ground

We'll have to go looking around.
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Dec 4, 2012 - 08:40am PT
Yes, Solem has the description correct. It's not like that other ceiling higher up and farther south that has a nailing route up over it - the one in one of my black and whites that I posted. Who knows, maybe the ceiling collapsed. It's much like Hot Tuna in that it's low to the ground, but it was pure undercling in a crack.

So, do you guys have strict rules about when to climb at Stoney after the rain? Do the Gendarmes show up and say.......

I know it was always a problem. We had to self-police on certain routes for sure. It never rains in California!
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Dec 4, 2012 - 08:56am PT
If Frumy catches you climbing when it's wet you are in a world of hurt.
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Dec 4, 2012 - 08:56am PT
I believe Dan is talking about the rock formation up Topanga, on the old Santa Susana pass road by the freeway.

Kris is right about climbing when Stoney is wet !
jw35

climber
Dec 4, 2012 - 09:19am PT
The undercling Dan is refering to is about 25 feet right of Hot Tuna. Its somewhere in the mid 11's and it's a no fall problem. While it is close to the ground the landing is Bad. Used to do it all the Time. Loved it. As to Yabo's Mantle, one Handed............ I did see Jeff Johnson do it that way with out the Cut. Very, very impressive.
Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Dec 4, 2012 - 09:31am PT
Is this the undercling/roof in this pic?
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/106565488
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Dec 4, 2012 - 09:40am PT
I can't say. It would be like what you see in the left part of that ceiling in there, where the crack goes up. I mostly remember the general difficutly of being crammed against the upper wall because you have to undercling. I vaguely remember roping up for it but am not sure - looks high enough that a rope would help. That would almost have to be it though in that pic? There are not that many ceilings like that back there.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Dec 4, 2012 - 10:17am PT
The Wilson Roof.....

You got me confused when you talked about it being close to the ground....

In T-fish's link.... that shows one of the "erased sport climbs" you can find at SP. They were bolted in the Mid-late eighties and the bolts lasted like 15 min......

Mickey Mouse is just to the left of that climber and right of Hot Tuna.
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Dec 4, 2012 - 10:44am PT
It does seem like it was closer to the ground than that - it's been so long! It seems like it was pretty cave like. Is that the route jw35 is talking about?

The new Stoney Point DVD even uses this tilt and shift filming technique in it's intoduction;

http://www.photoble.com/photo-inspiration/astonishing-tilt-shift-videos
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