STONEY POINT

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Messages 1401 - 1420 of total 2175 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
BlueWing

Sport climber
SCV, Ca
Dec 12, 2012 - 01:24pm PT
Hey ...
No, I can't get away from work during the week

That may have been the guys in my pix ... Alex?
I met them last Sat ... they said they may climb Tues nite

BTW ...
there are bees about half way down the S-Crack, 12' off the rt side
they didn't even notice me when I was there on Sat
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Dec 13, 2012 - 05:45pm PT
I remember bees back in the 60s and 70s up there. Is S-Crack the long one? Seems like we called it CS Crack - stood for Chicken Sh#t I think.

Here are some photos I just got back from the lab. First one here is Greg Bender on Turlock about 1970. That's Dan Wourt on the left on the ground and Richard Poust.
Credit: McHale's Navy
Below: This one is Greg Bender trying to free the main face at Stoney and the one below that is me up higher with Greg in the foreground. I don't remember who took the photo. I have another slide I will try to find of me higher up on the wall. I did not make it all the way though and we never got it together to set the ropes up again. These are from about 1970 also.
Credit: McHale's Navy
Credit: McHale's Navy
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Dec 13, 2012 - 07:43pm PT
Dan... nice shots... the s crack is the long one on the left.

I do recall it being "CS" crack.... not to much goes on on the big face, the better climbing is around back.

Greg Bender.... I wonder what happened to him?

When I started climbing he owned the place, along with Ken McNut, Mark Clemins (sp?)and Bob Kamps.. John Bachar wanted to do "all the mantles" that they could do.



McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Dec 13, 2012 - 07:47pm PT
Bender was in Arizona last I heard. I ran into him at a bouldering contest there about 1989 maybe.

There should be routes all over that face at Stoney by now.....get to it gang! Here are a couple more aid shots from around back. I'm the guy in the silohuette shot, did a hanging belay there for shot number 2 of Dick James.
Credit: McHale's Navy
Dick James cleaning below
Credit: McHale's Navy
paul roehl

Boulder climber
california
Dec 13, 2012 - 07:51pm PT
I remember Bender out at Stony in the early 70s. The guy had remarkable technique... really learned a bunch by watching him. He seemed to disappear for a while and when I saw him again he'd put on a lot of weight but was still doing these really difficult problems with perfect static grace like some kind of Ti Chi master. Great pics thanks for posting them.
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Dec 13, 2012 - 07:54pm PT
Yeah, Bender had some kind of mysterious force he could tap into. He was into chi and that sort of thing. I did not learn that stuff till later. My mantra was Strength is Technique! We always joked about our different approaches.

I had a funny rememberance while climbing at the Alabama Hills this Fall. I was looking down at the dirt on the ground at the start of a climb and realized I was thinking some thought about the dirt. I realized I was unconciously suppressing an urge to but my hand in the dirt - that's what we used to do before chock came along!
Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Dec 18, 2012 - 12:12am PT
Nah Guy, that wasn't me on the Jesus Wall. I've been being a gym rat for the past few weeks.

I did this a few months ago though. McHale, you got any shots from this route? Its Just north of Stoney but right before the freeway.
Aiding the freeway crack
Aiding the freeway crack
Credit: Tfish
G_Gnome

Trad climber
Pebble Wrestling.... Badly lately.
Dec 18, 2012 - 12:18am PT
That crack goes free at 5.10 now.
Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Dec 18, 2012 - 12:42am PT
I know, I tried to lead it onsite like a year ago and decked from maybe a foot below where I'm at in that pic. So now I just aid it and TR it.
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Dec 18, 2012 - 04:00pm PT
TFish, got a bigger pic of that area? It still looks like part of Stoney there. Not sure where you mean. Doesn't look familiar though. Somehow the Bird sh#t looks familiar!
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Dec 18, 2012 - 04:09pm PT
Dan... it's about 200 yards north of the RR tracks, east side of Topanga Canyon. A old one lane paved road runs along the base.

Someplace on this thread, there are more photos of the climbs.
Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Dec 18, 2012 - 05:41pm PT
It's right there, you walk up to the old paved road and then up a short trail. It's a crack in a dihedral and then you kinda top out and traverse right and then go up another short crack in another dihedral.

Freeway Crack at Stoney
Freeway Crack at Stoney
Credit: Tfish
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 18, 2012 - 09:25pm PT
Dan these pics are fantastic! i knew you could share. thanks for taking the time.
Credit: McHale's Navy
Credit: McHale's navy
did you buy those pitons from the mtn shop just down the road?
Credit: pyro
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Dec 19, 2012 - 09:36pm PT
Is that an old add for an old store? Let's see, I probably bought pitons from Westridge and the Mountain Store back in the day.

guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Dec 20, 2012 - 07:17pm PT
Dan... this store was in the late 80's

It was areally nice old time MT. Shop.

The owner would let us BBQ in the back.

Katiekorn

Boulder climber
Dec 24, 2012 - 01:21am PT
This rain is annoying...Is it ever going to stop long enough to climb again? Lol...

Where do the rest of you go to climb when the sandstone doesn't have enough time to dry?


*itching to climb outdoors*
~Katie
Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Dec 24, 2012 - 10:37am PT
Anywhere that is granite is usually good to go right after the rain. I was at the riverside quarry yesterday and it was really nice, tshirt and shorts weather and there was barely anyone there.
10b4me

Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
Dec 24, 2012 - 11:03am PT

Dan... this store was in the late 80's

It was areally nice old time MT. Shop.

The owner would let us BBQ in the back.


I remember that store, and the bbqs
As I recall, the building was pink.
The manager was a really cute girl
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Dec 28, 2012 - 03:14pm PT
It is still wet at STONEY.... mud everywhere.

So please consider the condition of the mud/sandstone before climbing.

Think of your children and grandchildren, and how much you want them to
enjoy the historic problems that you like.

Many of the "young guns" have gone to JT for some hot climbing.

They are in JUMBO ROCKS site #1 and #2 for the new years festivities, they wanted me to pass along a big.... "come on by" welcome for any who wish to join in.

Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Dec 28, 2012 - 03:28pm PT
Current temp in Josh is 48. In town. Noon Friday. Brr.

Hi tomorrow 49, Sunday 47...

It's weird, the night time lows are only down around 32. I've been out there when you wake up in the morning and it's 20, but a few hours later it's nice and warm in the 60s.

Oh well call me a wimp.
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