STONEY POINT

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Messages 1401 - 1420 of total 2069 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Nov 18, 2012 - 10:28pm PT
I once ran across a 100 yard parking lot barefoot, through 20 inches of new snow. Hurt like friggin hell.
dncs_w_bldrs

Boulder climber
NY to Cali
Nov 18, 2012 - 11:30pm PT
Wow those are some great photos, Dan! Thanks for sharing. I love seeing old Stoney Point photos. It's awesome to be a part of the history.

Sooo..when will Stoney be ready to climb? (given it doesn't rain again within the next few days) Thanksgiving, perhaps? I do appreciate the rain, but I'm antsy after 3 weeks of no climb time!
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Nov 19, 2012 - 10:23am PT
Dan.... Thank you for taking the time to post up old photos.

I started climbing at SP in 1973.... Bob Kamps would show all of us around and I recall him saying.... "McHale did that one a few years ago"... many times.

You did the Yabo Mantle one handed!!!!!!! The Boys now have something to shoot for.

One thing that always amazes me is how many good climbers grew up in the San Fernando Valley.

Was it the out door lifestyle, and having a formation like Stoney close by?

Please keep the shots comming and please let all of US know if you get down this way, we would love to show you around the Point... its all cleaned up, there are many new problems and a whole lot of motivited young climbers
who are tearing it up.

And to Dances.... It's starting to dry out now (monday am) Thursday might be good. I'll post up later in the week.

Guy Keesee
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Nov 19, 2012 - 12:27pm PT
Thanks for the invite. I better get in shape! Stoney Point shape that is!

The San Fernando thing must go back to Jack Lalanne and beyond. I did jumping jacks to him in front of the TV when I was 10. My serious fitness did not really start that early though. I could not do a single pullup at Columbus Junior High at the beginning President Kennedy's fitness programs. My friend Joe Brown started taking me to a gym in Santa Monica when I was pretty young and I built up pretty fast. When I graduated from high school I could do several chin-ups with 100 lbs hanging around my neck. I know Joe was influenced by the whole muscle beach scene and I'll bet Ken McNutt was also! Joe at age 68 or so is doing 500 mile bicycle races. Ken had a big influence on me. He was 55 when I was 16 and when I turned 55 I was a bit dissappointed that I had not lived up to my image of Ken. As I got older I always told myself I would maintain some resemblance to Ken when I turned 55. I'm hanging in there though and have been recovering from a few injuries like everyone gets.

John Gill must have been the guy that started the more specific exercise regime. Being specific is important. When I moved back to LA from San Jose I decided I wanted to cross-country ski race and while in San Jose I had the idea to ski on the beach for training. That's exactly what I did and wore the fish scales off some Track skis at Santa Monica. I did that at night since it was a little weird. I won my first 2 citizen races at Mammoth and Yosemite and more in Idaho. It was like that with the small climbing wall I made that I could change the angle of by leaning it against a tree or letting it hang from a rope for overhangs. It was what I called my mantle board and I could bolt various sized mantles to it and practice doing one-arm mantles with the board at various angles. I'm thinking of making a living room sized version that is not so tall.

It was important to have the Sierra Club around too. I actually first started climbing out to the extreme west end of the valley with a friend. We got the alpine bug from somewhere - like that Spencer Tracy movie. If you look out to the end of the valley toward Thousand Oaks there was a ridgeline that looked like an eagle spreading it's wings. That's where I hung out if I was not fishing on Malibu Pier. We bought some nylon ropes from a hardware store and would scramble and hang ropes over horns of rock and rappel Dulfer-Style. When I first went to Stoney we would hang a rope on that lip of rock up on Rock 1 and lower off. My mother at some point called the Sierra Club and I got hold of their schedule from the RCS and learned of Stoney's existence. My first time there, she just dropped me off and I could see somebody climbing up the far left crack of the main face there. I practically ran up to it and followed the guy up. It could have been Tom Higgins for all I knew. My first real climb was free-solo! I had no idea! I thought the ropes were just for going down. I joined the RCS and learned just enough to be dangerous and never did completely finish my card. Hey, climbing was all about rebellion and there were always people to show you the ropes! I never went to my last rolfing session either!

Getting back to San Fernando energy, it was just the shear numbers of people, just like the Bay area, that created the numbers of good climbers. Couple that with some friendly competition and some of the most amazing climbing in the world, just a few hours away, and the rest is history.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 19, 2012 - 09:54pm PT
Hello Dan McHale. thank's for posting ur pictures.
Stoney point got me ready for my hardest big wall the Tis-sa-sack route in 2001. i thought it b kool to put ur rack pic along with mine.
Credit: pyro
thats me in the bottom left i'm holding the " apple". that's Steve Kes...
thats me in the bottom left i'm holding the " apple". that's Steve Kessmen in the red w/green cap getting hungry for some wall climbing. we are both 23 years old at the time.
Credit: pyro
the roof picture is the best because i've pounded that thing also.
Ryan Mattock


P.s .

to Dennis Hennick
you still have a box of bolts from Westridge Mountaineering on hold!!
Credit: pyro
Credit: pyro
Credit: pyro
greatness for stoney crew!
Dennis Hennek wrote on the Stoney Point thread!!!!

Nov 18, 2012 - 06:38pm PT

I love this thread, always have. Stoneys the place I started climbing. On my bicycle at 10 years old I would ride over the the Santa Susana Pass, with my brothers, to Coraganville, and watch actors stage gunfights around the movie sets. At that time I lived in Canoga Park, and graduated from high school in 63 with Boche and Mclean. I later moved to Chatsworth with my family and lived on 5 acres on Chatsworth Street. We had horses that I could ride to Stoney and climb or into the hills behind. That area is now bisected by a freeway. A lot of great memories and friends from that time. Since its now November and raining, remember to let the place dry out before pulling again
thank you sir!
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Nov 19, 2012 - 10:18pm PT
Ryan, was there a big rockfall up there on Tis-sa-sack in recent years? I saw a video that looked like it was close. Did you post a TR?

Is Westridge gone? I could not find it in a search.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 19, 2012 - 11:07pm PT
hi dan!
Prow 05/12
Prow 05/12
Credit: pyro
the steep half dome Tis-sa-sack route is/was fun!
no rock fall when we climbed it in mid-sept of 2001.
recently in may/2012 i climbed the prow with dave katz and could see the angel rock scar which has been there since dec 2001.
i owe all my rock craft skill to stoney point.

edit:
Credit: pyro
prow katz may 2012.
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Nov 20, 2012 - 10:18am PT
When I climbed the NW Face of Half Dome (back in 1980, when I was 16) there was a party on Tis-Sa-Ack that was sending down huge trundles. They even had to rap off to get a spare rope after one of their ropes was cut. You think that would scare one away but strangely, ever since then, I've always wanted to climb that route.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Nov 20, 2012 - 10:23am PT
Getting back to San Fernando energy, it was just the shear numbers of people, just like the Bay area, that created the numbers of good climbers. Couple that with some friendly competition and some of the most amazing climbing in the world, just a few hours away, and the rest is history.

Dan.... that sums ITall up pretty nicely.

You talked about Ken McNut..... I remember him, he was all buff, as old as my Dad and owned a BMW motorbike. He could do all the problems and I recall being warned about getting on a handball court with him...

It's really great of you to post up about Stoney, please keep the pics comming.

FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Nov 20, 2012 - 01:05pm PT
Great pictures & posts. I was really bummed to miss Dolt's daughter ( Lilabiene ) a couple weeks ago, But everything added here in the last few weeks has been great.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Nov 20, 2012 - 01:23pm PT
Right now its getting HOT outside, it will be good on Wed for sure.

The boss man just let us know that we getting out at 2 on wed... time to go do some climbing after work. Great.
matty

Trad climber
under the sea
Nov 21, 2012 - 10:16am PT
Hope to see you there today guy! I'll be there by 4:30 or so =))


Dan - thanks so much for the old photos and stories. I read your little blurb from the magazine about firewalking on your hands...then I googled it...could not find any reference to anyone else doing it. You know if others have? Do you still firewalk?
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Nov 21, 2012 - 11:52am PT
Matty, I have not firewalked for about 14 years. Before that I did it for about 14 years! I started thinking maybe I was part of the climate change problem building all those big bonfires! To do it on your hands you have to be able to walk on your hands proficiently - that leaves out quite a few people. I would get into a frog stand and press into a handstand and then take off. I would actually walk on HOT coals too. Much firewalking gets done on coals that are already burned out - that hardly glow in the dark. At the end of one firewalking session in which a guy younger than me ( I may have been 40 and he 25 ) copied everything I did that night, including carrying somebody piggyback across the coals, decided to follow me across doing a handstand. The coals were starting to die down by then and we raked them into a maybe 2 to 3 foot wide area to cross. I did it first - there was enough there to get each hand in the fire - I did fine. He blisterd every one of his fingers when he did it. I had already done that in learning and building up to what I knew! Nevertheless, there was no way for me to know if he would get burned or not, and warning somebody as exuberant as he was would be pointless - in firewalking it may be counterproductive to tell somebody they're gonna burn. I could write a book and wanted to but it's all a little weird. It seems to boil down (I like punns) to being able to extend your Chi energy to the bitter end - then there is no bitter end. It is hard to do that in the face of what is going on. That makes it a Martial Art thing to me. If somebody absolutely surrenders their hands to the heat with no holding back, they will be OK. The trouble is, I doubt somebody can get to that point of letting go on the hands without getting burned first. I have no idea what happened to that young guy. I doubt that he died.


Just so we don't screw up the Stoney Point thread with this crap I'll maybe start a new thread. There are a number of climbers I've shown how to firewalk including Scott Fischer, Greg Child, Rich Jonston of the Vertical Club, Mark Rodell,..........
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Nov 21, 2012 - 12:53pm PT
I quite enjoy threads like this, celebrating klettergartens near to big cities. The kinds of places where many of us got started climbing.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Nov 21, 2012 - 01:30pm PT
Just so we don't screw up the Stoney Point thread with this crap I'll maybe start a new thread. There are a number of climbers I've shown how to firewalk including Scott Fischer, Greg Child, and Mark Rodell!

Don't worry, we get OT all the time on this one.... lots of stuff goes on at Stoney besides rockclimbing.

And Mighty.... what do they have in BC for a local pile o rocks?
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Nov 21, 2012 - 04:38pm PT
Well, in and near Vancouver the traditional spots were the North Van quarry and Lighthouse Park, although there was climbing near the BCMC cabin on Grouse, on Crown and the Camel, and Seymour, some perhaps pre-war. There are now a half dozen or more spots in various places along the north shore, although half or more the traffic may still be to Lighthouse Park. A lovely spot, and one of the last bits of old growth forest near sea level in the lower mainland.

There's also some stuff in the Fraser Valley, but nowadays with better roads, people often simply go to Squamish on summer evenings.

Andy's thread, mostly about Lighthouse Park and area, is at http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/724921/By-the-sea-the-shining-sea We're still hoping Chaz will visit, and take kite photos of the lighthouse.

Someone I talked with the other day started climbing in Munich, and had lots to say about the klettergarten there.
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Nov 22, 2012 - 02:24pm PT
Happy Thanksgiving to all of you Stoney Point nuts.
Keep pulling.
Don't forget it takes everyone pulling on their corner of the planet to keep the planet spinning.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 23, 2012 - 02:48pm PT
thread drifts are not a problem the stoney thread will remain..
Credit: pyro
these guys want to learn more and more about the point!
happy-turkey weekend.
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Nov 23, 2012 - 06:49pm PT
Damn the Torpedos! Ok - well they are sandstone so maybe they belong in the Stoney 'Point' thread. After I moved to Idaho, my parents followed me to there, and then they moved to Wyoming after buying a piece of property that had some sandstone boulders. It was outside Riverton. They would have made a nice centerpiece for a Hugh Hefner theme. It was just one of those things I never followed through on. Here they are about 37 years later - enjoy!
Credit: McHale's Navy
Credit: McHale's Navy
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 24, 2012 - 08:58am PT
McHale tell us about stoney's obscure aid climbs if ya have any?
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