STONEY POINT

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Messages 1381 - 1400 of total 2071 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Nov 16, 2012 - 01:03pm PT
It rained pretty hard last nite and was wet on Friday am.....

It is cold and drizzle on Friday.

It should be closed for the weekend.

But I bet the guide services, will have clients out there....

Pretty lame IMHO....

but they don't seem to care at all..... ever.
Yafer

Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
Nov 16, 2012 - 02:20pm PT
Yep. Bump
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 16, 2012 - 02:30pm PT
stay off the sandstone rock for at least five days after a good soakin...
stay off the sandstone rock for at least five days after a good soaking. thank-you!
Credit: pyro
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Nov 16, 2012 - 03:42pm PT
Oh man, I have to stay in.
Credit: FRUMY
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Nov 17, 2012 - 01:52pm PT
Credit: FRUMY
toadgas

Trad climber
los angeles
Nov 17, 2012 - 02:45pm PT
It rained pretty hard last nite and was wet on Friday am.....

It is cold and drizzle on Friday.

It should be closed for the weekend.

But I bet the guide services, will have clients out there....

Pretty lame IMHO....

but they don't seem to care at all..... ever.



well....some stoney local needs to post some pics here of the guides and their clients crankin on the rain soaked sandstone...a big "bozo no-no"

then we can heap public shame and scorn upon the fools!!!!


I recall in the 80s when the sport climbers invaded Stoney....they didnt know how to use their feet so they tore off key holds by climbing gracelessly and sketchin around out of control

-
Anastasia

climber
InLOVEwithAris.
Nov 17, 2012 - 04:08pm PT
After every rain there are new climbs.

Kamps told me once that he never got bored of Stoney because of the dang rain.

McHale's Navy

Boulder climber
Panorama City, California
Nov 17, 2012 - 06:07pm PT
Credit: McHale's Navy
photo not found
Missing photo ID#274272
I everybody! This is Dan McHale - I learned to climb at Stoney. I still have my unfinished RCS card! I just went through this thread quickly and have these photos to add to the thread for now. I have more but need to do some digging. This one is of me top-roping and freeing the left Sculptored Crack in 1969. Greg Bender may have taken the photo. The next photo is on Turlock of course and #3 is goofing around on Rock 1. I did not really pound the pins in - there were scars already there!
Credit: McHale's Navy
Credit: McHale's Navy
Cole

Trad climber
los angeles
Nov 17, 2012 - 06:55pm PT
Wow Dan those are some cool old shots!! If you have more PLEASE post them! Us Stoney dudes get really psyched on that stuff.

Alert, Alert shameless plug ahead. If you hadn't already seen it check out the documentary I made about the history of climbing at Stoney Point:

http://stoneypointdocumentary.com/

Looking forward to more old photos!
McHale's Navy

Boulder climber
Panorama City, California
Nov 17, 2012 - 07:52pm PT
Thanks Cole! And, CaChing, I just ordered the Stoney DVD - the trailer is great. I'm glad to hear Stoney is all wet too - makes me feel better about having to to go to the gym (up here in Seattle)! The Seattle Bouldering Project is pretty cool.

It will be fun digging up the photos. I know I have a slide of top-roping the main biggest face at Stoney left of CS crack. Got most of the way up, past that short vertical isolated discontinuous flared chimney feature about 1970 - never tried that one again but should have!

Has anyone documented climbing out at Box Canyon? Is there anything going on out there these days? That big arch was a great big wall training ground and I put in belay bolts above it (on lead) to free the face above it but never had the chance to do it either. Sounds like we did the arch free but is was nailing.
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Nov 17, 2012 - 09:49pm PT
Thanks, great pic.
Credit: FRUMY
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Nov 18, 2012 - 04:01pm PT
Here are a couple Box Canyon pics I took. Dick James is in both. One is him standing at the base of the old rurp route below the right end of the arch. The arch is much bigger at its left end. The 2nd photo is of Dick coming over the lip of the arch above the rurp crack after traversing the arch. 3rd photo is of me during a net hammock bivi under the arch taken by my friend Otis. Photos are no later than 1970 and can be as early as 1968. I was 18 in 1970. The Box Canyon area is closer to Santa Susana Pass than Stoney.

Dick worked with me at the Pumice Mine at Mono Craters and at the pumice mill in town in Lee Vining! We were on our way to Alaska after I got out of high-school and somehow got hung up at the mine. Yosemite may have had something to do with that. I quit after a couple of months after coughing up pumice 'foam'. Dick had quit earlier because for some reason the jack-hammers blew his for-arms. My last job was as a sawyer so I skirted the jack-hammer blues.
Credit: McHale's Navy
Credit: McHale's Navy
Credit: McHale's Navy
This photo Otis took of the me and the gear for the Box Canyon Arch is at Stoney. The ropes date the photo too.
Credit: McHale's Navy
I'll end this post with this shot of Dan Wourt (not sure of spelling of last name - pronouced Wert). This is on the front face of Turlock and he's traversing one-handed. The hardest one-handed route I ever did at Stoney was what looks to be now called the Yabbo Mantle (lieback to undercling to mantle bowl). Kamps could do that route one-handed and I basically followed his lead!

Dan Wourt was a photographer and he got me into it a bit and had me buy a Pentax Spotmatic. That's probably what this was shot with. Dan did some Needles exploration with me including some early trundling in the late 60s.
Credit: McHale's Navy
matty

Trad climber
under the sea
Nov 18, 2012 - 04:42pm PT
Thanks Dan really enjoy your words and seeing those photos. Classic stuff.
Cole

Trad climber
los angeles
Nov 18, 2012 - 06:13pm PT
Awesome Dan! That last photo especially is so rad, wish we could have included it in the documentary. BTW, thanks for buying a copy! I look forward to hearing what you think.

Those Box Canyon photos are awesome too. I drove around and looked at those walls a couple times but never hiked up to the base or climbed on them. I'm not sure anyone has in a long time, maybe someone reading here will get motivated to check the area out. If you got more pics keep em coming!
Dennis Hennek

climber
Nov 18, 2012 - 06:38pm PT
I love this thread, always have. Stoneys the place I started climbing. On my bicycle at 10 years old I would ride over the the Santa Susana Pass, with my brothers, to Coraganville, and watch actors stage gunfights around the movie sets. At that time I lived in Canoga Park, and graduated from high school in 63 with Boche and Mclean. I later moved to Chatsworth with my family and lived on 5 acres on Chatsworth Street. We had horses that I could ride to Stoney and climb or into the hills behind. That area is now bisected by a freeway. A lot of great memories and friends from that time. Since its now November and raining, remember to let the place dry out before pulling again.
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Nov 18, 2012 - 07:53pm PT
Dennis, A few years before I started climbing I lived in Chatsworth and my family had horses as well! We only had 1/2 acre though! I wanted to rope calves and make a roping team with my step-dad but he was too chicken!

I still have the issue of Summit Magazine with Dihedral Diary in it. I must have read that story 100 times and I clearly remember being at Stoney hearing about you and Don on the NA Wall. I can still feel the energy of that day.

Here are 2 more shots of mine of Dick James nailing at Stoney. The ceiling is around the backside of Stoney and the other overhanging wall is just around from Bethoven - it's that wall that looks like grease is seaping out of it.
Credit: McHale's Navy
Credit: McHale's Navy
I took photos just now of these prints since they are too big to scan. Click these for enlargements.
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Nov 18, 2012 - 08:04pm PT
Hey Dan, you remember my dad Blair Glenn? He has talked about you a ton, nothing but great stuff. He lived with you for a bit in san jose or campbell, said you would all work out like crazy on the safeway rock wall.
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Nov 18, 2012 - 08:36pm PT
Sure! There were some crazy times in that apartment! What's he up to? I sure lost track when I moved to Idaho. I went to visit Bill Burns and never came back but that was after moving back to SoCal. What was the name of the local Stoney Point up there above Los Gatos? I remember being at Winchell's Donuts to builder and a guy pulled up on a motorcycle wearing my stolen Holubar expedition down parka. It was very convenient that there was a cop there also.
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Nov 18, 2012 - 09:52pm PT
castle rock. My dad lives up in the hills right next to summit rock and castle rock, owned a tree service for the last 36 years. Saratoga tree service. Did you really run barefoot in the snow? (one of his stories about you)
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Nov 18, 2012 - 10:06pm PT
Running barefoot in snow is not that big of a deal. I did it some in Idaho in about 20 degrees F but don't remember doing it with Blair. It's easier to walk barefoot in snow than run, and safer in terms of getting impaled. This pic below is from 1985 and the short story in Rock & Ice was 1989. It's kind of like walking barefoot in the snow! My original story was edited a bit so what's here is a little tacky in places - like the contact lens thing! Click for an easier read. The blurry thing near my right pocket is my chock bag - there just for psychological security. Just kidding there, it's just a ghost image from scanning.
Credit: McHale's Navy
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