STONEY POINT

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Messages 1381 - 1400 of total 2175 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
G_Gnome

Trad climber
Pebble Wrestling.... Badly lately.
Dec 3, 2012 - 10:25pm PT
It rained hard for days, I would think even Thursday is iffy unless it is warm and sunny the whole week. Pull gently on those holds for a while.
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Dec 3, 2012 - 10:52pm PT
I've been looking more closely at the Yabo Mantle and found this pic. If he (Marc Perry) is mantling just on the sloping platform with no hold, that's not what I'm talking about. One-handed I used the hold up and to this climbers left.
Credit: McHale's Navy
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Dec 3, 2012 - 11:58pm PT
DAN.... you don't mean "Hot Tuna" as the overhang?

What Dan is describing - being an undercling like the upper part of Great Roof - does not sound like Hot Tuna. I can't figure what he's talking about, it'll be interesting to find it.

Someone will know...
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Dec 4, 2012 - 12:06am PT
I just looked up Hot Tuna http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TpSUn0Zo0x0

It's not Hot Tuna and it's not that long but it is a ceiling like that, but flatter, and has a crack that going straight up into the corner. It gets traversed, it's not a climb out and over the ceiling.

This must be what I did one-handed on Rock 1 (different undercling than the one above that's like Hot Tuna) but the lower part I'm sure is a bit different now and the undercling may not be as good as it used to be, but it does not look like the mantle hold has changed much;

Undercling - V2
Average Rating : 3.25 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (10)

Only other person I knew of that did this one-handed was Bob Kamps.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Dec 4, 2012 - 11:07am PT
Dan.... that Mark dude is doing Yabo Mantle, and if he is using the little cut hold with his left hand.... it dosen't count.

Trying hard to recall a roof with a crack comming through it. Not much like that at Stoney.
The WET WEATHER STATUS REPORT: A very wet and cold morning here in Chatsworth.

Climbing is CLOSED....

I will update WED am....

Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Dec 4, 2012 - 11:33am PT
a roof with a crack comming through it

The way I read Dan's description is that it is a roof with a crack across the back going up in at the joint of the wall with the roof, creating a feature which can be traversed by undercling.

I've got a Stoney route for all you guys to talk about. Way around back but closer to the freeway side there is a ceiling close to the ground

We'll have to go looking around.
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Dec 4, 2012 - 11:40am PT
Yes, Solem has the description correct. It's not like that other ceiling higher up and farther south that has a nailing route up over it - the one in one of my black and whites that I posted. Who knows, maybe the ceiling collapsed. It's much like Hot Tuna in that it's low to the ground, but it was pure undercling in a crack.

So, do you guys have strict rules about when to climb at Stoney after the rain? Do the Gendarmes show up and say.......

I know it was always a problem. We had to self-police on certain routes for sure. It never rains in California!
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Dec 4, 2012 - 11:56am PT
If Frumy catches you climbing when it's wet you are in a world of hurt.
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Dec 4, 2012 - 11:56am PT
I believe Dan is talking about the rock formation up Topanga, on the old Santa Susana pass road by the freeway.

Kris is right about climbing when Stoney is wet !
jw35

climber
Dec 4, 2012 - 12:19pm PT
The undercling Dan is refering to is about 25 feet right of Hot Tuna. Its somewhere in the mid 11's and it's a no fall problem. While it is close to the ground the landing is Bad. Used to do it all the Time. Loved it. As to Yabo's Mantle, one Handed............ I did see Jeff Johnson do it that way with out the Cut. Very, very impressive.
Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Dec 4, 2012 - 12:31pm PT
Is this the undercling/roof in this pic?
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/106565488
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Dec 4, 2012 - 12:40pm PT
I can't say. It would be like what you see in the left part of that ceiling in there, where the crack goes up. I mostly remember the general difficutly of being crammed against the upper wall because you have to undercling. I vaguely remember roping up for it but am not sure - looks high enough that a rope would help. That would almost have to be it though in that pic? There are not that many ceilings like that back there.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Dec 4, 2012 - 01:17pm PT
The Wilson Roof.....

You got me confused when you talked about it being close to the ground....

In T-fish's link.... that shows one of the "erased sport climbs" you can find at SP. They were bolted in the Mid-late eighties and the bolts lasted like 15 min......

Mickey Mouse is just to the left of that climber and right of Hot Tuna.
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Dec 4, 2012 - 01:44pm PT
It does seem like it was closer to the ground than that - it's been so long! It seems like it was pretty cave like. Is that the route jw35 is talking about?

The new Stoney Point DVD even uses this tilt and shift filming technique in it's intoduction;

http://www.photoble.com/photo-inspiration/astonishing-tilt-shift-videos
Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Dec 4, 2012 - 01:50pm PT
The roof in the pic to the right of the climber is the one JW35 is talking about. But it's not up by the freeway, it's right next to hot tuna. If you park at the top end of stoney and walk towards Scuptures and those routes it's like the first spot you'd come to on the right.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Dec 4, 2012 - 02:57pm PT
YES, That is the one.

Back when Wild Jim Wilson was really wild... he would try and get you to do it. After you backed off it , Jim would just float the thing.

pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 5, 2012 - 12:13am PT
i've seen mike flood aid/lead that wilson roof. i have been up the mikey mouse problem along with the tuna traverse.
great read!

Edit: life is a bivouac aka: russ Mclean glad ur happy in bishop! i'll keep the stoney pic flow'n.

Credit: pyro

guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Dec 7, 2012 - 02:18pm PT
Pretty nice weather this last week...

Stoney is good to go for this weekend, for all that care.

thanks
BlueWing

Sport climber
SCV, Ca
Dec 9, 2012 - 03:53pm PT
A good day on the S-Crack at the front wall yesterday.
Perfect weather ... calm,clear and cool.
Boy Scouts, Photo Shoots and LADF paramedics.
Rap'g down the S-Crack
Rap'g down the S-Crack
Credit: BlueWing
This is Alex doing the Aussie Rap down the Jesus Wall
This is Alex doing the Aussie Rap down the Jesus Wall
Credit: BlueWing
A friend of a new climbing friend, Alex, taking the scenic route down ...
A friend of a new climbing friend, Alex, taking the scenic route down the Jesus Wall.
Credit: BlueWing
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Dec 12, 2012 - 12:59pm PT
Starting to Rain...... in Chatsworth.

Stoney is closed for a day or two.


BlueWing... last nite, there was nitetime climbing action on the Jesus Wall

and the S-crack.

Was that you???

T-fish??
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