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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 16, 2009 - 04:33pm PT
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Rob thank's for the great shot'z! I really like the pic of the 118freeway.
misterE your always welcomed.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Dec 16, 2009 - 05:03pm PT
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So far as "new" stuff, this same scenario gets played out at Roubidoux every decade or so. Photos are lacking, but there are a few of us who still remember Phil Haney, Paul Gleason, Ben Borson and others sending some pretty grim shite (up to around V8) a way back there, when we were still early on in high school. Slab climbing hasn't really gotten any harder in 30 years.
JL
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dec 18, 2009 - 12:45am PT
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Slab climbing hasn't really gotten any harder in 30 years.
So true.
More bolts are big difference. Some things done way BITD are amazing, esp when you factor in climbing in hiking boots.
gk
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dec 18, 2009 - 12:10pm PT
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Yesterday was really nice out at the point.
Sunny skies,with cool temps were the order of the day.
A climber from Budapest, Martin is his name, was blasting through town and he "Just had to come and see this place" We showed him some of the more classic stuff and then moved on to "hard problems." He spoke enthusiastically about the local bouldering back in Budapest. "Boulders in the forest" he said.Sounds nice.
I always like the international flavor you can sometimes find there.
Personally, I was able to hit some harder problems that I have not been able to do in about 6 years due to injuries. So I was very happy.
As long as there is no more rain and the temps stay cool the friction should be picking up some in the next few weeks.
GK
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Dec 19, 2009 - 12:27pm PT
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Guido, of course, is correct. That is a photo of Dennis Hennek, not me. I was never that young.
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paul roehl
Boulder climber
california
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Dec 19, 2009 - 03:20pm PT
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Part of the flake in the photo was gone by the early 70s. We used to call that particular series of moves "crowed pleaser traverse." It ended up on the nob below the infamous "rock #2 overhang." The traverse looked great but really wasn't very difficult 5.8 perhaps before the flake began to go and the ground below eroded a bit. I'm sure it's much more difficult now. I remember as holds were pulled off by 76 or so it seemed much more difficult.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 20, 2009 - 09:36pm PT
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dec 23, 2009 - 11:24am PT
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Pual Rohel..... I believe you are correct,The flake made the traverse 5.8....that was the last time I was able to do it.
Yesterday, 12/22/09 was cold and clear. The point, as usual, had some out of state visitors. If anybody Knows "Kieth" from Boulder,driving a outback, loaded with gear.....he says hi to all back in snowy Colorado, his next stop is "The Tree".
Anyway, a two year quest by the Topos own "matty" ended yesterday. Matt was able to finely send "Yabos Mantle" on rock one.
So we had something to celebrate.... and we broke out the frozen beers at sunset. (like we needed a reason)
late.
gk
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 24, 2009 - 11:49am PT
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nice job matty!
Yabo mantle is a good one to have under your belt.
have a good holiday and a happy new year.
with love from the point.
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matty
Trad climber
los arbor
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Here is demeets matching on the mantle, where the real business starts. Jeff Johnson says he knows of at least 17 variations to this problem. He is the only person I know that has down climbed it, though I've seen Aaron come close. The way I did it is knott the usual way, but then again I am knott a usual person. Next I will have to try Yabo arete, and I think there may be a yabo dyno up top to complete the trifecta. I'm coming home tomorrow boys. See ya tuesday
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2010 - 08:32pm PT
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love this thread! here are some of my member numbers for the record.
SPCA #1995-06
ASCA#2007-07
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2010 - 01:09am PT
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2010 - 10:28pm PT
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just a nice kinda day!
enjoy the pic's for tuesday the 12th.
the clouds looked so stellar!
have a good day!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2010 - 12:52am PT
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Good times!
Good times!
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jan 13, 2010 - 01:06am PT
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Extra trippy sunset tonight.
Can't beat 70 degree weather, good friends and good climbing.
The "Kat" is better after climbing.....IMHO.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2010 - 01:21am PT
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puff looking clouds!
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matty
Trad climber
los arbor
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Jan 13, 2010 - 12:13pm PT
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Thanks for shooting my better side Ryan
):RAIN:(
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2010 - 01:33pm PT
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due to the rain Stoney is closed to climbers for a few days!
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sowr
Trad climber
CA
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Jan 16, 2010 - 11:35am PT
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Art of Climbing had a great selection of reading material - I seem to remember getting my first pair of Fire Cats from there too.
Sad that (besides Nomad Ventures) all of the specialty shops have gone away, they were great places to just hang out.
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