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p
Mountain climber
ny
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 29, 2009 - 03:50pm PT
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I became a proud owner of 9 inch and 12 inch valley giant cams. I am planning to do Steck Salathe next week. Would these help protecting the narrows or the chimney above? I have read about using #4 big bros on the route.
Thanks
Paul
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Alexey
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Sep 29, 2009 - 03:54pm PT
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you do not need anything bigger than #4 old camelot. It protect well initial hardest entry move into the Narrows . After that you can not fall - just inhale and your chest hold you better than any pro
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Sep 29, 2009 - 03:56pm PT
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Yup! You only need a #4 friend. Just remember to take off your rack and dangle it below you.
Bruce
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Sep 29, 2009 - 04:10pm PT
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Geez...you can't fall out of the thing, it's a question of being able to move up.
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Sep 29, 2009 - 04:31pm PT
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Don't worry about the Narrows.
It feels like you could fall out as you're first sucking up into it. That's gotta be why so much ink gets spilled on that move. But I'll bet no one ever does. Just set those elbow-palm locks and make like a snake.
Once you get your knees up into the narrower bit tho, you'll probably wish they were still flailing out of the way. Seems to be harder for tall guys, but look at it this way: where else will you ever have one-up on Dean Potter?
Soon enough it'll be just another great story, mimed in the firelight.
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p
Mountain climber
ny
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 29, 2009 - 05:23pm PT
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Thanks guys. that makes sense.
I want to mention though that I climb predominantly in Gunks (read roofs/overhangs) and even 5.8-5.9 chimney/squeez/OW is a challenge. Any opinion from 5.9 chimney climber who did it?
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BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
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Sep 29, 2009 - 05:27pm PT
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Someone beat me to the "just inhale" part, but it is true.
You will love it. The route is super fun.
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Moof
Big Wall climber
A cube at my soul sucking job in Oregon
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Sep 29, 2009 - 05:31pm PT
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I love the "Breath Jam".
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Sep 29, 2009 - 05:31pm PT
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I climbed the Narrows in the middle of a furious thunderstorm and the chimney was a virtual waterfall. It took about five or six tries for me to get wedged up in there because each time I tried to move up into the slot, the waterfall just spit me back out. Pretty scary and cool all at the same time.
Bruce
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Ryan Tetz
Trad climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Sep 29, 2009 - 05:40pm PT
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It'd be a pain to carry, route protects surprisingly well overall. Could maybe bring 2 fours at the max to absolutely sew up the off width cruxes. One is totally fine. I remember doing it as a newb and pushing a 4 around while I didn't know how to climb pure 5.8 leg jamming odub. A 4 bro seems overkill imo.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Sep 29, 2009 - 06:06pm PT
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You bought them, you might as well take them.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Sep 29, 2009 - 07:12pm PT
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Brutus enters the Narrows...
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martygarrison
Trad climber
The Great North these days......
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Sep 29, 2009 - 07:49pm PT
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Mark disagree......no need for these things in the narrows and then you whould have to drag them up the whole route, never when they are needed. Go lite and fast on this one.
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August West
Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
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Sep 29, 2009 - 07:53pm PT
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I don't think you need anything than the old #4 to get/aid into the narrows. I just don't see anyway to slide down that thing out of control. It is too narrow and it is actually sort of wavey on the inside (gives your feet something).
Exiting the narrows can also be exciting. However, you can climb up high and get a #3 camalot in (you then have to downclimb to actually be able to exit)--this protects the getting out and most of the rest of the pitch.
I thought the scary pitch was the one below the narrows that is a flared crack/chicken wing size. You most definitely could fall out of that thing. I don't know if it would take a big cam or not (we didn't have any).
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Sep 29, 2009 - 07:56pm PT
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A friend of mine did the SS in the early 70's with Brit Richard McHardy. Richard supplied the gear and when they got to the bottom pulled out 6 manky nuts, none of which were large. When questioned, Richard said: "Aye, but too many pieces lower me standard."
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Sep 29, 2009 - 10:16pm PT
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A blue camalot works every time.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Sep 29, 2009 - 11:11pm PT
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Marty, I'm being facetious, there is no need what so ever for cams that big. In fact, if someone even considers taking gear that big then they should seriously re-consider doing the route. Remember, ability trumps all and all routes are not for all people.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
The Great North these days......
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Sep 30, 2009 - 09:51am PT
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Dingus, I led the pitch with Stu back in the day. I remember it was bombay at the start, but not much else. good to hear Stu is getting out again. Mark sorry I was slow to catch on.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Redlands
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Sep 30, 2009 - 10:49am PT
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The narrows isn't an issue at all as far as pro, #4 getting in and you can't fall out. The pitch below the narrows is more of a problem to protect...we had a 4.5 camalot that I used there. You can get a finger sized piece in a foot or two below that, so if you're strong on right-side-in flaring squeeze, you could easily get by with a single #4 and nothing bigger. I think that was the only place we used the 4.5, but we used the 4 in several places.
Here's what it looks like, dudemanbro in pic has just finished the crux.
My $0.02: Read up on the descent descriptions people have written on the Taco, I did and it helped out alot (especially descending in the dark, which is a good possibility on this route), take plenty of water and a lighter.
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Rankin
climber
North Carolina
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Sep 30, 2009 - 11:03am PT
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No way do you need that big of a cam on SS. I took a #5 WC and would have been fine with less. As seen in the photos, plug that baby at the bottom of the Narrows, get up in that thing, game over...laugh your way to the belay ledge.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Soon enough it'll be just another great story, mimed in the firelight.
Nice.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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"I want to mention though that I climb predominantly in Gunks (read roofs/overhangs) and even 5.8-5.9 chimney/squeez/OW is a challenge." If it makes you feel any better, I've climbed in the Valley for over 40 years and "5.9 chimney" still scares me more than "5.11 face."
I agree with those who think the flare below the Narrows is the scariest pitch on the route. Burly and not all-that-great pro.
Incidentally, a friend of mine did the SS last weekend, and did the outside variation rather than the Narrows. He said the protection for the initial moves is the same as that for the Narrows. He also said there were a couple of original Salathe bolts with dubious hangers, but overall the protection is fine. I wouldn't know because I've never tried to go that way.
John
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Mr_T
Trad climber
The 7th Pin Scar on Serentiy Crack
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A 9-12 inch would let you do the outside stem variation! Go for it!
(Don't bring a #9 for the Narrows - will get in the way.)
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mongrel
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Mike is right about the outside var. We were fine with just a #4 Friend. But it's only one move of 5.9c+ at the lip, then 5.9b later on. Pitch before is no terror either, it really is only 5.8b (burly). Just go climb. It's a solid old style route, if difficulty of individual bits is a concern, you're probably toast. Great route, great setting, long descent though. Don't lug a lot of excess or big gear, it's so much work already that the extra weight is a bad idea.
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wildone
climber
GHOST TOWN
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I've actually heard that the best protection to take is technique.
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BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
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I wouldn't want that big sucker battering my knee for just one move that is really pretty easy.
The big deal on a route like this is speed. Keep your changeovers quick and your gear organized. I would also put your gear on an old school over the shoulder gear sling. They are super for chimneys and offwidths. You will figure it out.
Speed will get you home before dark. I am like Donini on this..don't take too much crap because it will slow you down. Speed is about organization and changeovers at the belays. Always keep someone climbing. Can't stress that one enough.
Other than that, the route is a ton of fun, especially the upper part.
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okie
Trad climber
San Leandro, Ca
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Base104, from an oil field... Hmm... Hearndon?
I remember the Narrows as being the place I ran out of gas. Very claustrophobic unless you are a skinny sport climber, which I am not. Don't wear a helmet- it won't fit. Don't wear anything at all, especially big cams... You can't really rate these things- the chimney below goes at 5.8 or 10b. The higher rating sells more guidebooks...
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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I've done it twice, BITD. I don't remember there being any protection at all (this is precam) in the Narrows. I guess there could have been a fixed bong up there I've conveniently forgotten, but I'm sure we didn't place any.
At the time I did it, I too was a Gunks climber with little offwidth ability (as Peter Haan, who tried to teach me some, can testify). The thing is totally secure, but a little hard to move up in. It isn't at all like some of the base of El Cap testpieces; its ripply and you can effectively palm your way up. It isn't the crux; there's a short, shallow bottle-shaped crack lower down that is harder (but also well-protected at the time with a fixed pin).
The one thing I'd mention about the Narrows (as told to me by Dick Williams, another Gunks climber who climbed the SS in the sixties), is to turn your head so you are looking out at the sky rather into the darkness, because it may be too narrow to turn your head for a few feet, and your disposition (as well as your glasses if you are like Dick and me) will be a lot less cloudy if you are looking out into fresh air.
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Mr_T
Trad climber
The 7th Pin Scar on Serentiy Crack
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Whoever just said this above is a genius!!!
Stack an approach shoe with your largest cam if you want more options.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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If you need to take a 9" or 12" you aren't ready
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Eric Beck
Sport climber
Bishop, California
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I remember finding an almost perfect replica of the Narrows just to the west of Swan Slab. However, I have since gone back to find it and failed. The dimensions match almost perfectly. Once one's knees are up, however, it is over; the upper chimney is capped.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Wear acopa scramblers and you don't need climbing shoes.
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p
Mountain climber
ny
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 13, 2009 - 07:42pm PT
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Thanks for replies. I left my overgrown cams in the tent. Took 4 and 5 camalot. U probably can do without 5 but I did not feel sorry I took it. Route was great. Lead all pitches but took over 10 hours.
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dogtown
Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
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Oct 13, 2009 - 08:21pm PT
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Seems to be harder for tall guys, but look at it this way: where else will you ever have one-up on Dean Potter?
I can bump that Shizz When DR and I did it, It was a war for me I’m 6’3” great route and the view of El Cap. Is of no other in the Valley.
Ryan Frost The Narrows.
Sentinel is the Valley out post. Period.
Photos Frost.
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Rankin
climber
North Carolina
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Oct 13, 2009 - 08:55pm PT
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Great job p! God I love that route.
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dogtown
Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
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Oct 13, 2009 - 08:58pm PT
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Here I have a Question for you all? Who has freed the Steak, Salathe dihedral that avoids the narrows? I think one of the Raleigh Boys Duane or his bother gave it a go if I recall, Nasty !! Has anyone? And when.?
Dogtown.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Oct 13, 2009 - 09:25pm PT
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congratulations p!
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Oct 13, 2009 - 11:24pm PT
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Good job P,
10 hours is faster than average!
Zander
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