once upon a time in WOODFORDS CANYON

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Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 23, 2009 - 03:32pm PT
well the "secret" be out, so here is some canyon Trivia!! LOL


Mama cat boulder named for a small grave at the base that showed up around 1978 the marker said "here lies Mama Cat"....Hence the name....


Bueallah the pumper on suicide falls was named for the Forest service engine in markleeveille whos name was Beaullah...One of the last home built fire engines in the circus...She was a grand gal...

Berthas boulder for the ORIGINAL graffiti...... the hollowed out area facing the highway is where they used to store blasting powder when making the road!!!



Watti Yatti on cracker cliff was a re mix of everyone that was there that day, Chuck Jobst, Jim Arnold, Steve Yasmer Max Jones and mysef. we had a wee party! LOL


Henrys Unit boulder was named for "hot Henry Barber baby!"


Speak english or die was named well for OBVIOUS reasons by Dano LMAO!!!!


One of these days,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,self explanatory !!!!!



Lightning dream cuz of LIGHTNING DYUH!!!!


Penial pillar also,,,,,,self explanatory...


Up to nothin,, well some touroids at the bottom asked us what we were up to on the approach, we said,,,,,,,,,,,you guessed it Up to NOTHIN LMAO!!!!!



LedZep Arete,,, in honor of THE BAND.....was also my last new route with Dano.....sigh.....

Theres a taste, more to come,, with a few stories maybe,, as well....


like the time we were SHOCKED to see someone else there!! came around a corner and bumped into TM Herbert LOL...
mark miller

Social climber
Reno
Sep 23, 2009 - 11:04pm PT
Any time you bumped into TM you were in for a "shite' storm. One Time at the Leap with a mediocre rack Jim H and I were headed up to see what was open and TM starts in on us about our Half dome size rack....... Another time while in the Great White Book line up, this guy in a polyester brown shirt and matching pants and a Canadian Mounty hat Solo's up to us and asks if he can pass....We knew it was TM and of course said "Have at it". They don't make them like that anymore,( I think TM actually broke the mold after his birth).
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
the ground up
Sep 24, 2009 - 03:05am PT
from the other thread(s)
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Sep 24, 2009 - 03:25am PT
hey there boitch, say, what a great picture... man oh man!


and also, of course:
nice trivia list, too...
:)
Chim-Chim

climber
Sep 24, 2009 - 11:15am PT
Heh Ron thanks for the historical information on a fine area. The picture that was posted has a bomber two-bolt anchor, and it can be found on the back side of OOTD tower. I'm heading up to that area to blam in an anchor in a sweet spot. Chim
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City
Sep 24, 2009 - 02:05pm PT
Thanks for the trivia on the area. Its stuff like this that I did not want lost when we started talking about a guide. The place has a lot of hidden history from you guys that needs to be kept alive......keep on talking
Shawn
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 25, 2009 - 02:18am PT
K.... This one time,, at band camp He ehhe ok seriously,,,,this has to do with LedZep Arete ( the 5.12 arete behind the old cabin sight). Steve Yasmer and myself had cleaned the thing scrubbing with wire brushes as it was buried beneath a thick carpet moss... once cleaned we tr'd he thing thn put the bolts in ground up with aid..It was a georgeous little route, and we fully intended on bagging it officially...time past and one day I was going to head up to the canyon with Dano,, and I was telling him tha we should go by and do it real quick... He asked if we had done it and I said sssuuuurreee,,, he hehe so we went on up and he flashed it in usaul Dano style thinking it to be maybe 12b or a. I yelled up to him CONGRATS ON THE FA !!!! Luaghed like a hyena as I lowered him, all the while he was calling me a sphincter for suckering him LOL!!!
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City
Sep 27, 2009 - 03:05am PT
nice story, keep em coming'
Shawn
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 27, 2009 - 03:17pm PT
I know Doc Long and Warren Harding messed around there once or twice,,, i remember them talking about it once when I was at Docs place in Carson one night when Warren had dropped by for a visit and lotsa wine! But it was always a chore to follow those conversations LMAO!!!!!


Chuck Jobst, a local markleeville resident and I used to do alot of "headlamp" climbing in the canyon LOL!! It was amazing how much the things change at night!!! There are lots of old mystery pins that were left on those "routes" and in time they shall be discovered - hard to draw out topos in the dark and relate them the next day LOL...Chuck started fashioning our own lost arrow type pins from steel so we had a good supply of fixed anchor material, remember, this was still the age of on the stance hand drilling for bolts, so pins were normally the preffered anchor. Back then if you had shown up somewhere with a bosch you would have been stoned to death !!!!!




The "fling block" on suicide falls was named due to a horrific incident that took place... Chuck Jobst had a dog named Rodney who was a mutt mix but an excellent cragger in his own right! Anyhow, he was setting at the base of the route on the snow as we climbed. I touched a large block which was attached appearently by faith alone, and it hurtled earthward, youu gessed it, right towards Rodney!!! We were both screamin at him to move but he simply looked up at as and SPLAT!!!!!!!!!!!!! Rodney was gone in an explosion of snow and manzanita!! We were both freaked and I was already down climbing when suddenly outta the snow ten feet below pops Rodney tail waggin as he shook the snow out of his ears!! The snow and brush under neath had spared him any injury whatsoever!... There was one time when the ribbon waterfall between those two faces froze up too!!!! Both faces are fairly grungy for the canyon but was always good for a shortie approach!!



Chldren of the sun (led zep lyric, not the tiled song HA!)
one with Bill Nagel from Carson in 1978..
was a mentalyy punishing thing, a we decided to make it a rules problem on the first pitch and do a direct to the crack slab approach which was hard .10 and no pro till fifty feet when reaching the finger crack.... We yo yoed that thing multiple times trying to reach the crack to get the first pro, only to hair out and do the hideous downclimb... remember that we were in EB's didnt have any new gen rubber or gadgets, just a couple of pins and a rack of hexes and stoppers... we had 1/4 inch bolts with us, but those were always and ABSOLUTE last resort...hehe eventually, Billy got pissed enough to surge up and into the crack and the thing was in the bag...Too bad it turned chossy the higher on the route you got- but that is the risk of exploration they all cant be jewels LOL!!! The next day we found ourselves listening to the NUGE doing Cat scratch fever... it would not leave our heads, so we named the 5.10 crack/corner on the fortress in honor of said song LOL, seemed fitting the way i was scratchin for foot holds on the wall as i lead it LOL, Nagel yelled up that I was cat scratchin... I guess ya had to be there cuz it was hillarious, or was it the erb????

I do rememer it was a gorgeous day though!! The cayon sun and views are hard to beat!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 27, 2009 - 04:11pm PT
sooo,, dateline 1978, july~~~ Al Roberts and I had just come down from a route attempt on the upper fortress, and we had been prepared for anything with huge racks dangling away! NOT THAT WE WERE GONNA ACTUALY CLIMB with them, just carried the chit that way back then ... We come down around a corner and run smack into three guys climbing !!!! Holey crap we were shocked!!! We stood there abit gape jawed to see other climbers as it was rare back then!! Then this older dude says,,," Hey for craps sake el Cap aint no where near here BWHAAHAHAHAA"" You guys need a few sherpas for all that gear!!! Ya know how to use any of it???" Then he starts luaghing as it dawns on us who it is,,,,Hey TM, what youz doin up here slumming ??? LMAO!!! I introduced Al to the infamous TM Herbert who did a few first ascents in the canyon he even used gear LOL!!! Now crap how cool is it to run into historical climbing figures in a secret stash of lovely rock like woodfords??? Those were the days my freinds!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 27, 2009 - 04:22pm PT
How bout a time we camped in the canyon, partied like rock stars till we passed out only to awaken to a mess... i looked around in a daze at our food and all the remaining beer as it had been shredded and torn and consumed???? I didnt remember shredding any beer cans last night?? WTF ???? slowly, my hung over condition allowed focus and i realized we had been ramsacked by a bear who had walked all around as prolly even gave us a sniff or two, and niether one of us knew anything LOL!!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 28, 2009 - 03:38pm PT
if some one can give me da beta on posting pics here, i can scan in a few new things.....
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 29, 2009 - 01:18pm PT
LedZep Arete    Woodfords canyon   ....
LedZep Arete Woodfords canyon ....
Credit: Ron Anderson
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 29, 2009 - 01:31pm PT
Credit: Ron Anderson




new route possibilitys in the woodfords/ hgwy 88 area.....
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City
Sep 29, 2009 - 05:45pm PT
Thanks Ron for more info and stories. Did you used to camp under a "roof" a couple of yards east of high energy wall. Found an ol' built up camping spot there.
Shawn
franky

climber
Davis, CA
Sep 29, 2009 - 05:55pm PT
I like the woodfords beta, seems like there are some decent moderate routes there too.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 29, 2009 - 07:14pm PT
Hey Shawn I believe Dano created that nook LOL!!! He was always into these little side projects !!! Like the epoxy wall some will roll their eyes at the glued on holds, but its a tremendous training wall on a cold winter day as it can be cozy there! We were up there once with some noob freinds this one dude tries the middle comes off and swings upside down and NARROWLY missed a labatomy on the sharp cornered rock at the base LOL!!! One thing i always wanted to do there was to do a section 20 type adventure of inter connected climbs buttresses towers etc from the bottom to top.... both sides have possibilities but it might require a bivvy on top LOL!!!
taylor

Social climber
the local crag
Sep 29, 2009 - 09:01pm PT
sweet stories!! never even heard about the ledzep arete, bet it could use some brushin, just like the apoxy wall could use some new glue!! any pics? it would be rad to see some historic FA photos
ShibbyShane

Trad climber
Sacramento, Ca
Sep 29, 2009 - 09:36pm PT
Which climb is the first picture in this thread of? Looks like fun!
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City
Sep 30, 2009 - 12:15am PT
Credit: BurnRockBurn
Ron
When I found the alcove I just could picture him sitting under there scoping the valley. Never met him but...feel his presence up there.
Would you be interested in coming up with us some time and swapping a few beers and stories?
That little lost cabin is no longer there. Was bummed. Took some of the last pictures of that place before "they" tore it down.

Credit: BurnRockBurn
Epoxy wall still hanging
Epoxy wall still hanging
Credit: BurnRockBurn
photo not found
Missing photo ID#126949

photo not found
Missing photo ID#126949
lost cabin is now completely lost
lost cabin is now completely lost
Credit: BurnRockBurn
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