Lost Arrow Chimney Trip Report 9/19/09


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Social climber
Flatland, Ca
Oct 16, 2009 - 11:07pm PT
I'd go up there to clean trash...

Super cool TR...

Thanks for the photos. The pic make me think that I might want to scurry that chimney some time in the future...

Kick a$$!

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2010 - 10:36pm PT
Probably you all new this already but oldguy is Joe Fitschen.
Just found this out on the Castle Rock Spire thread. See his cool report up thread.
Thanks Joe and welcome.

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
Feb 14, 2010 - 11:28pm PT
Great write up Joe, any news on a publisher for your book?????????????????????????

Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
Feb 15, 2010 - 06:36am PT

It's interesting how climbs go in and out of fashion. I never thought to ask Frank Sacherer what his favorite climb in the Valley was, but from the amount of comment on the ones he did mention, I would say the first free ascent of this one was his favorite.

Trad climber
slowly dying in the OC
Feb 15, 2010 - 01:06pm PT
That could be a good FaceLift project.

Great to see you here on the ol' Taco Stand. And thanks for the great day 35 years ago at Jenny Lake, "showing me the ropes".

Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
Feb 15, 2010 - 02:26pm PT
great TR, nice pics.

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
Feb 15, 2010 - 03:18pm PT
Since Ed mentioned Glen Denny's great Lost Arrow shot, I should mention I have a few copies of Glen's lithograph left and they are SIGNED by the photographer!


Here is the poster...
Credit: Ihateplastic


Social climber
Newport, OR
Feb 15, 2010 - 04:56pm PT
Yeah had only done the "Direct" on the Arrow, (with "Punk" Roy, and "Swiss" Michi,) and could only just peer into the chimney at times and marvelled at the on-sight free-solo ascent by fellow Woodson climber Greg Cameron, (Eeyonkee) in the '70's...

Feb 15, 2010 - 08:02pm PT
I read only the first page. The roar of the falls made this climb entirely unlike any other.

Only one comment.

If I would ever go back

I would use goldline.

Feb 15, 2010 - 09:27pm PT
The Lost Arrow Chimney is a great route! (also probably a great ice route in the winter all you bay area folks, nod's as good as a wink, say no more!). Nice trip report.
Jay Wood

Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
Feb 16, 2010 - 02:32pm PT
Credit: Jay Wood

Taken 2/13/10

Didn't notice the ice at the time.

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
Feb 16, 2010 - 03:44pm PT
There was a lot of ice in there... I definitely noticed and tried to take pics of it, but I don't think I got the exposure properly set for the darkness in the chimney compared to the brightness all around. Will post my pics whenever I upload 'em.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Feb 16, 2010 - 03:48pm PT
that poster is AMAZING! I have it hanging up in my hallway... next to the "BACHAR" poster...
Denny's poster is very high quality, and the price seemed much too small for something like that, but it is what it is... if you are thinking about it and haven't purchased it yet, do it!
Jay Wood

Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
Feb 16, 2010 - 04:14pm PT
Nice display of Denny photos (some LARGE) at the mountain room bar currently.

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
Feb 16, 2010 - 05:15pm PT
I agree with Ed!
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Feb 16, 2010 - 07:14pm PT
Here Jay, after Camera Raw techniques in PS C4:
Credit: Peter Haan

You can see that effing ice tongue in there. this is a risky place to be when ice has formed.....
Jay Wood

Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
Feb 16, 2010 - 09:59pm PT
Don't want to add another skeleton!
the Fet

Feb 17, 2010 - 02:49pm PT
Wow I missed oldguy's story the first time around.

All the claustrophobia of the chimney lifted like a morning mist and with it a lot of the accumulated fatigue. We traversed from the notch toward the valley side of the spire into the healing, redeeming, ever-blessed sun

The golden age of Yosemite climbing was filled with an impressive group of people who could not only climb but also write eloquently about their adventures.

The founding fathers of American climbing. What a legacy they created.

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
Feb 17, 2010 - 06:40pm PT
On another thread Ed H. had a wonderful 3Mb file of the Arrow. I just blew it up at Kinko's as a 6' x 3' B/W poster for my office wall... planning expense Wr. IRS...

Ed's post...

Oakland, CA
Feb 1, 2012 - 07:49pm PT
Day off from work bump, deluxe quality thread.
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