Left Wing Extremist V 5.11a, Galen Rowell & David Wilson

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Messages 1 - 20 of total 20 in this topic
Myles Moser

climber
carlsbad ca
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 21, 2009 - 09:19pm PT
All right I have done enough research to rip my own hair out!!
I 'am looking for a Topo of Left Wing Extremist on the East face of Mt. Whitney. It was put up in 1991 by Galen Rowell and Dave Wilson. I have a shelf of books at work, but not a single topo. Please Help!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Sep 21, 2009 - 10:20pm PT
Dave's on this forum. You might try asking him.

David Wilson

climber
CA
Sep 22, 2009 - 09:23am PT
Myles, I don't think we ever drew a topo. I'll try to post a good annotated photo for you in the next few days. David
David Wilson

climber
CA
Sep 22, 2009 - 08:42pm PT
Myles, Below are three images that represent the best of my memory on this route. I think the grades are probably a little soft but there is definitely a long off width. That pitch stopped us on our first attempt as we carried only one 3 1/2" piece. We came back with some heavy artillery and dispatched. I'm showing only the belays in the central area of the route. The remainder of the route is 5.9 or less as I recall.



adam d

climber
closer to waves than rock
Sep 22, 2009 - 09:38pm PT
Looks sweet!

Yet another reason the Taco rules. FA response in 24 hrs?!!!?!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Sep 22, 2009 - 10:12pm PT
no doubt Adam, Taco power in effect

Dave rocks!

pip the dog

Mountain climber
planet dogboy
Sep 23, 2009 - 09:08am PT
how cool to simply sit back and watch this thread play out.

a reminder that even amidst the oncoming hoards of mall children, we remain a rather small tribe.

good on all of you. and oh yeah -- i could fall off that one just as fast as the next guy. sheesh...

^,,^
Myles Moser

climber
carlsbad ca
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 23, 2009 - 07:44pm PT
Thanks Dave for the photos. Anything I should be aware of? Am I looking at bolted belays or all natural. 5.10d off width should be brutal! Bring a couple of 4's or bigger? Can I loose the haulbag? The 11 corner bolted or gear? and last but not least roughly how many pitches and what sort of rack?
Myles Moser

climber
carlsbad ca
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 23, 2009 - 09:00pm PT
OK I drew a topo based of your photos Dave and the book California 14ers. I have it scanned but I can not figure how to load it. Curious if I could email it to you for an overview and hopefully a little more beta on it. Or just how to get the topo from my saved file to the forum.
thanks
David Wilson

climber
CA
Sep 23, 2009 - 09:09pm PT
Myles, The route has no bolts. I do suspect those grades are soft compared to the valley. If it were next to the generator crack the off width pitch would probably be "hard 5.9". It probably is the 16 pitches per the guide, but lots are moderate and turn to 4th class at the top. The real business is those central 4 or 5 pitches I indicated. You definitely don't need to haul. It's a one day outing from Iceberg. I'd take a bunch of wired stoppers, one half size cam, doubles through red, one yellow, one blue, two fours and one or two fives....best guess. It's been a long time. Have a great trip!
Myles Moser

climber
carlsbad ca
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 23, 2009 - 09:33pm PT
the beef of the route looks rad!! The quartz looks pretty stunning. Is it that pretty? your saying its its a 9 compared to the generator that's using the tree or not? number 6 to big?
rockermike

Mountain climber
Sep 24, 2009 - 10:21am PT
where is Brutus' line in comparison to this one? ("hairline" or something like that?). I suspect off to the right??
BW

climber
Big Pine, CA
Sep 24, 2009 - 05:34pm PT
Hey Myles! How'd that Keeler route work out for you guys?

And you've got to check out David's book...
cleo

Social climber
Berkeley, CA
Sep 24, 2009 - 08:35pm PT
cool.....
rockermike

Mountain climber
Sep 24, 2009 - 10:17pm PT
bump;
where's the Hairline line go?
Myles Moser

climber
carlsbad ca
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 27, 2009 - 01:17pm PT
hairline is located to the right of left wing extremist. it lies between the direct east face and the Great book. if you were to look at the photos above, direct east face is to the right of the black water mark and hair line cuts through the arching cracks to the right of that
Chugach Man

climber
Anchorage / San Diego
Sep 30, 2009 - 02:03pm PT
Anyone know if you get the same rockfall on this route that you get on the Direct East Face knocked down by those above on the regular East Face? That can be a bit, um, dodgy on that route, but this line looks pretty fun.
jfailing

Trad climber
Terrible Taft
Apr 12, 2011 - 03:36pm PT
This is a bump to get everyone stoked for high Sierra season...

Myles: Did you ever end up climbing this!?

This route looks awesome!
Myles Moser

climber
carlsbad ca
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2011 - 04:50pm PT
No not this past season, but Amy and I are back in the Portal working for the Doug Thompson. Hopefully we will. How you been man? Gonna be working out on the east side this season?
Camster (Rhymes with Hamster)

Social climber
CO
Apr 13, 2011 - 09:08pm PT
Steve Porcella and I were climbing a line next to Left Wing the day Galen and Dave finished this route. We camped with them the night before. Quite impressive stuff. I think Galen was about 55 or something.
Messages 1 - 20 of total 20 in this topic
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