Aquarian Wall- Trip Report June/July 2009

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Messages 21 - 33 of total 33 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Sep 20, 2009 - 10:05pm PT
Good Peyton. High quality images, coverage! It's true, the heat is daunting. I remember when this route was established. Bridwell and Schmitz actually hated it and had procrastinated a bunch getting it done. There were a number of assaults on it by them you see, prior to the actual completion of the line.
tadhunt

Trad climber
Sunnyvale, CA
Sep 21, 2009 - 01:02pm PT
bump for a great TR and pics!
Peyton Hassinger

Big Wall climber
Raleigh, NC
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 21, 2009 - 01:24pm PT
i put it up on the route beta page
Lambone

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Sep 21, 2009 - 01:28pm PT
Nice job,

so I am curious, it still counts as a clean ascent because your head didn't stick?

nice climb!
Dirka

Trad climber
SF
Sep 21, 2009 - 01:41pm PT
Bump for You.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Sep 21, 2009 - 02:04pm PT
Right on!

So would you have had to bail, do you think, without happening across that sweet water cache?

Anyways, great accomplishment, Peyton!
Russ Walling

Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
Sep 21, 2009 - 02:06pm PT
Good stuff!
Gunkie

climber
East Coast US
Sep 21, 2009 - 02:39pm PT
Way cool and thanks for posting.

A wall partner of mine had an ant crawl into his ear in the valley and had to go to the medical clinic to get the thing out. He said it was the worst feeling he has ever had.

You're from NC and I have a question: I just spent two weeks on business in the Smokey's, near Highlands/Whitesides. Does it ever stop raining? It rained every day for the past two weeks.

Post more pix, if you have them.

bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Sep 21, 2009 - 02:45pm PT
Nice job!!!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Sep 21, 2009 - 04:53pm PT
more pics please
Stanley Hassinger

climber
Eastern US
Sep 21, 2009 - 06:49pm PT
Pman - everyone clearly wants more pictures. If you would, please do throw us a bone.

And I'm sure everyone (me included) would love to hear the details of the bolt-breaking incident. I still haven't heard that story!

Do tell.

Stanley
Peyton Hassinger

Big Wall climber
Raleigh, NC
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 21, 2009 - 09:48pm PT
Answering a few people's questions at once:

No I guess that technically it doesn't count as a free ascent since i tried to place a head that pulled out. I don't think it really matters what you call it, but the point is that there shouldn't be too much nailing on this route in the future. If you bring offset aliens and are willing to engage in some creative, albeit difficult, climbing, you can do this without nailing. There are, however, a few fixed heads and maybe 2 fixed pins that are required and would have to be replaced if they pulled. I would suggest future parties bring 5-10 heads and a handful of pins just in case.

I've never bailed on an el cap route before despite running out of food and water, so I would have continued even if I didn't find the sweet water cache. I could have gotten by on a bit less, I just would have been light-headed and tired all day.

Yes, having an ant in your ear is freaking psychotic. I slept with tissue paper ear plugs for the rest of the route!

Yes, it does stop raining in NC and the climbing there is actually pretty awesome. Looking glass is like a mini el cap with 7-9 pitch routes, many of which are pretty stout. I'm actually in school in minnesota now so I haven't experienced a NC summer in a while.

The bolt/dowel breaking incident at pitch 17 was pretty scary. I had the bad-looking bolts backed up to the 4" crack about 8 feet down and to the right. The problem was that hauling from that crack would have been a pain (would have had to extend all the way up and over the big block). So I figured I'd just haul off the bad bolts and avoid complete demise by backing them up to a #4 camalot. I made the anchor, rapped down, lowered out my bags, cleaned the pitch, then started to haul. As soon as I leaned back, the better of the two bolts broke and loaded the other one (I equalized them with a shoulder length sling). I immediately unclipped from the whole system (it was a big ledge) and began backing up with more cams (4 total, I think). The problem was that the haul was already loading the one crappy bolt/dowel, so I had to keep on hauling off of it. Every time I leaned back I was just waiting for it to break and shock load the cams. Unpleasant. It also gave me a huge blood blister from pulling up on the haul line to keep from having to lean on the anchor so hard (I don't wear gloves, but at that moment I was wishing I did).

I'll work on more pictures later, but I actually didn't take much more. All of them are ledge pictures because I was too tired during the day to get the camera out.
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
Idaho, also. Sorta, kinda mostly, Yeah.
Sep 21, 2009 - 10:51pm PT
No matter, dude....we got the gist.
Awesome route & good times......
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