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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 1, 2009 - 12:04pm PT
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Besides having a goofy *ss name.
It's a route in the Sandias that was the scene of a triple fatality a while back. Three doctors, I believe, fell off it at once.
Can someone fill me in, or link me to a write up?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Partner of mine tried to auto-remove his kneecap on it BITD.
Baaad juju on that route!
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2009 - 02:27pm PT
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Reilly, what do you mean about the juju?
I mean, a lot of folks have perished on the Nose, but we keep climbing it!
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Manny
Social climber
tempe
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I did it last year. A belay up high could be better but wtih a competent partner it should be fine. I thought it could use a bolted belay there but was vetoed by the local amigos I climbed it with. Keeping the flavor close to original was their intent.
It was a fun climb and protected well otherwise.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2009 - 03:55pm PT
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Thanks Manny. I was pretty sure that was the case.
I'm not worried, I build one HELL of a trad anchor!!
Buggs and I were just wondering.
Glad to hear you had a good trip.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Survival,
I just meant it seems to have a high carnage rate for a less-than-freguently-done and not-real-hard route. I recall
a few other stories of orthopedic rearrangement from BITD.
Reilly
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2009 - 08:42pm PT
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Thanks guys.
I will look at those links. I think some of it might have to do with folks without enough experience not taking the Sandias serious enough. Those are some mighty big stones with some difficult terrain around them.
I think some people get sucked into this "just outside of town" thing, I don't know. They look a hell of a lot more serious than the gym to me, and I haven't even been on one of them yet.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2009 - 01:42am PT
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Any late comers, just for grins??
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Just be sure to kill a chicken and anoint it with rum before you start. That should take care of the juju.
A roadrunner would do in a pinch.
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mrtropy
Trad climber
Nor Cal
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fun climb I did it years ago when my brother was doing a residence at the VA hospital there in Albuquerque. No bad juju for us.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2009 - 09:17am PT
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BWA HA haha! Reilly, that was just the kind of advice we were looking for. I knew something like that would work!
mrtropy, glad you had a juju free ascent.
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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The thing missing from the explanations of the accident is the fact that the last pitch cannot be done with a 50M (maybe even a 60M?) rope in one pitch without simulclimbing.
And in fact, the simul portion puts you into the crux of the pitch, a somewhat awkward ~5.8 bulge.
The team's experience @ trad climbing was minimal. They were passed down low by another party that day who reported they were moving very slowly.
I believe Glenn left behind a wife and very young son. Jane and Carlos left behind many grieving friends and family.
It was a horrible accident that should never have happened.
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dmitry
Trad climber
the evil empire
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Warpy Moople is a classic.
The first and last pitches are loose (possible contributing factor to that triple death, although why the leader didn't just walk the rope around the giant tree on top is a mystery... fatigue no doubt). 60m rope is a must on that pitch, as I recall.
The fifth pitch that goes way left and eventually leads you back right over severely underprotected 5.8 to 5.9 ish face climbing will leave you with some fond memories.
An alternative is to do the underprotected 10b bolder problem right off the belay. It would be a hard fall but is over in 10 feet and then you are in a secure crack.
You should be able to feel the move before committing to it.
While you are on that wall, do Second Coming (4 pitches) if you still have time.
Cheers,
d
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