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Rock Monkey
Mountain climber
Thousand Oaks, California
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Aug 11, 2014 - 07:13am PT
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I think using free weights for eccentric exercises (forearm pronation and wrist flexion) actually works better than one of the rubber bars. Taking something with cissus also helps with recovery and prevention. I've used Elbow Revive and Super Cissus in the past. Elbow Revive seemed to get me back in action faster, but both did the trick. Other than that, fish oil really helps with reducing inflammation.
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Aug 19, 2014 - 02:03pm PT
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All you need to do eccentric forearm work with a dumbell is to train one arm at a time and use the free arm to return the dumbell to the starting position for the eccentric motion (it does seem a little strange doing this at first).
Rgold, I'm not sure I follow you about using the free arm to return the dumbbell to the starting position. Could you elaborate? I must be stupid, but do you mean to use the free hand to assist the arm being worked?
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Aug 19, 2014 - 02:36pm PT
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The point is eccentric exercise, which is to say lowering the weight under muscle tension, rather than raising the weight by contracting the forearm muscles. The muscle is getting longer, not shorter, in an eccentric exercise. So, if doing wrist curls, you start from the full contracted (most curled) position and lower the weight. Then you use the other hand to assist in bringing the weight back to the fully curled position, with the assistance so strong that the curling hand expends virtually no perceptible effort. For example,
[Click to View YouTube Video]
The method works just as well for lateral epicondylitis, except you do eccentric reverse wrist curls (palm facing down) rather than eccentric wrist curls as above
A related technique is the Hammer of Thoretta (a lame attempt at humor, with apologies for any perceived misogyny)
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 19, 2014 - 05:43pm PT
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A climber whose opinion I trust, Henry Lester, speaks highly of The armaid https://www.armaid.com/store/. . I met him in the seventies and he still trains like a fiend and climbs hard. I'm looking into it!
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Aug 20, 2014 - 08:17am PT
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Thanks Rgold, gotcha. I'll try it.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Aug 20, 2014 - 09:18am PT
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Jammer, just for a counterpoint, I did exactly the same stretches and got no benefit from them at all. Which is not to say folks shouldn't try them; obviously different things work best for different people.
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Jawon
climber
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Aug 20, 2014 - 09:48am PT
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Absolutely no science behind this (that I can point to), but it must've come from somewhere, I didn't make this up...
I had/have tennis elbow and doing basic exercises that worked the entire arm/shoulder area seemed to have helped me. I worked my biceps, triceps, lats, chest... throw in some easy wrist curls, wrist rotation exercises, you get the point. I found it easier to do these common exercises than the ones focused only on the elbow, I'm just too lazy to do PT-type exercises on my own!
I think the idea is that my muscles were imbalanced from the climbing. In fact, now after each climbing session, doing some of these other exercises seems to really relieve the pressure on the elbow immediately.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Aug 20, 2014 - 10:40am PT
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Jammer, I don't really know anything about the physiology involved. Some discussion, in lay terms, of possible physiological mechanisms is in http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2971639/ . Whether the proposed "tendon structure remodeling" can occur when the muscle is stretched, but not with resistance, is not addressed.
There is, however, a lot of clinical evidence out there for the effectiveness of eccentric rehab training, especially for achilles and patella tendons.
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jgill
Boulder climber
Colorado
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Aug 20, 2014 - 06:45pm PT
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What worked for me in 1970 when I first developed climber's elbow, and after trying a number of procedures, was to locate a trigger point on the inside of the forearm, then do deep and painful massage with the thumb. Rest a few days, repeat. After a while the sharp pain resolves to a dull ache, then eventually it's gone. For what it's worth.
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BruceAnderson
Social climber
Los Angeles currently St. Antonin, France
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Aug 20, 2014 - 10:28pm PT
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The reverse eccentric wrist curls shown above are really effective. 3-4 sets of 15 reps, as much weight as you can handle (there should be a little discomfort) , 4-5 times a week did wonders for my elbow last year. I do em now 2-3 a week as preventative maintenance and voila, no problems.
I'll also add that I've thrown in doing handstands into my normal strength training routine and these seem very good for stretching the extensors and building their strength isometrically.
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PortlandRob
climber
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Feb 12, 2018 - 09:32am PT
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Does anyone know where you can buy Elbow Revive or what happened to it? It seems to have vanished from the market. The website doesn't seem to be active and I don't see any other sellers.
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