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Curt
Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
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Aug 28, 2009 - 08:07pm PT
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I have no personal knowledge of TY chiseling or modifying routes, but if he did I bet he regrets it. Even John Gill, when young, modified a sharp hold on one of his best boulder problems at Devil's Lake, with his piton hammer.
Curt
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Ray-J
Social climber
east L.A. vato...
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Aug 28, 2009 - 08:23pm PT
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Or just plain "enduro"
Mythic.
The crack machine and his training
Sh#t were imitated much.
Enduro was on fire.
Bachar's alter-ego in the hard core
Arena of socal rock climbing...
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Double D
climber
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Aug 28, 2009 - 09:35pm PT
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First time I met Tony was in the Valley WBITD, bouldering with Largo, me thinks. Anyway from the 1st ten minutes of bouldering with him I knew he had some way special talents. Heck, he'd have to do 2-3 moves for our 1.
Super nice guy, super humble and as Todd already mentioned his training was not fair for us lowely stonners.
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stevep
Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
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Aug 28, 2009 - 10:19pm PT
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There was some stuff up in Idaho that looked modified to me.
Regardless, he was very nice to me. Ran into him down at Mt. Charleston in the early 90s when he was bascially living in an RV in the parking lot there. He was free with the beta and even gave a couple of the belays. I lucked out on that solo trip with belay partners. The other one I got there was Rusty Baillie.
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Ed Bannister
Mountain climber
Riverside, CA
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Aug 31, 2009 - 06:32pm PT
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Tony did not indulge in "hippie lettuce" as the current thread refers. That might be a reason he was not included in some groups.
Instead, he was reading "Designing Resistance Training Programs"
and building his endurance, strength, and resistance to injury.`
Check his photo in the 100th issue of Climbing showing his vascular forearm, the caption says this was after doing Equinox
at JT, one small detail left out, the photo was taken after seven consecutive laps.
I would love to hear of anyone doing a second ascent of Boogieman, until Tony did it, it was "never previously contemplated as a rock climb."
So it went or goes, Tony never reported a route he put up, never sought publicity or aggrandizement, and never sought to promote himself. I have seen him labor and sweat for hours to clean everthing loose off a route so that there was nothing that would pull off and kill somebody on a route he put up. yes he broke some loose stuff off with a chisel, but it was loose!
If the route was 5.9, he protected it so a 5.9 climber could do the route without killing himself. No statement routes, no routes aggrandizing who put it up.
Self agrandizement in routes might be better identified as routes like The Kid, or No More Mr. Nice Guy, these routes are pretty much homages to self, but they take away the route for most climbers.
We were discussing bolts once, and I referred to 1/3" bolts, Tony said I don't use those anymore, I had one twist off. From then on Tony only placed 1/2 " bolts, you can send your best friend to do a Yaniro route anywhere, it will be reasonably protected, there will be no swing of death for the second where some person less concerned, or less capable, put up something
reflecting a lack of care or capacity.
Tony is absolutely honest.
and then there is this:
Tony and Brett Maurer had been working on a route and at dusk had packed up gearBrett had walked off the ramp at the bottom of the climb in the Needles. Tony had needed to pee for a long time, before traversing off the ramp he peed on the rock past the gear. as he reached for his pack and cord, Brett was back to help carry the rest, but Brett strde right past! Tony grabbed,
and caught Brett, but the force was too great, rather than let his partner go down the ramp, Tony Yaniro held on and was pulled off too. They tumbled rolled, went over a dry waterfall,
and slid to a stop in dirt and bushes some 180 feet below.
100 stitches between them including Brett's thumb brushing/yelling event.
Tony would do anything for his partners well being, he is not just, a nice guy.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Speaking of Levitation, does anybody know where the DeSoto parking garage is? I've looked. I wonder if it's still there...
Anybody know this history??
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Parking garage is still there. It's on the north side of Ventura Blvd. Levy still trains there some.
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Ed Bannister
Mountain climber
Riverside, CA
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kman,
there is actually some anchient video of the parking garage,
with Tony and Randy... can't think of which old climbing video it was on though.
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Ed Bannister
Mountain climber
Riverside, CA
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Tony did a 14 in Idaho, but would not call it 14,
he wanted someone else to rate it.
I said to him on the phone, why not, you did the first 13!
his reply
Yeah, but that was c.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Ed, I think the name of the route is Remora, but I haven't seen the video of it in a long time.
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Ed Bannister
Mountain climber
Riverside, CA
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Munge, That is right, Tony called me when he got it, he said: the only way I could do it was to skip clipping a bolt.
has anyone repeated that route?
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Ed,
I was waiting for you to chime in. I was in your shop years ago and we were discussing taping hands and what tape was best. You told me to hang on a minute, you made a call to Tony to find out what he used, he may have been working in the health field at the time.
The last time I saw him was at Williamson Rock, he had a porta-crib set up for his kid or kids while he climbed, at least I assumed it was his family.
Oh, have you heard from Chuck Blackwell lately? When you told the story about Brett it reminded me of Chuck. And what is Brett up to?
Kevin Mokracek
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Ed Bannister
Mountain climber
Riverside, CA
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Sep 21, 2009 - 03:54pm PT
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I loaned Blackwell my Edelrid helmet when he went to Alaska, he never returned it, Then he became a rep for Blue Water, that really did it.
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Spike Flavis
Trad climber
Truckee California
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Nov 29, 2012 - 09:32am PT
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I'm looking for contact information for Tony Yaniro.
I'm writing an article about Tony for my blog
I'm also looking for the clip of Tony training from the movie "on the rocks"
Thanks, SF
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