Eiger brand carabiner: Collectable?

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Messages 41 - 60 of total 91 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Aug 25, 2009 - 06:01pm PT
But from ice axes, back to old carabiners.

(Photos shot while we enjoyed burgers & beer in our backyard this evening.)

Pierre Allain carabiners, locking and not, were designed to have near-zero
minor axis strength. I use the not-locking one to rack small wires, don't
know why I've kept the locker this long.





ec

climber
ca
Aug 25, 2009 - 06:16pm PT
We used to say, "Give be Liberty and Give me Death!"
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Aug 25, 2009 - 06:20pm PT
A tale of 4 biners: I think these represent the first 4 generations of Chouinards,
oldest at bottom. They've all been dragged up some walls.

Rokjox

Trad climber
Boys I'dunno
Aug 25, 2009 - 06:30pm PT
Funny to think people today don't know what an Eiger biner was/is.

I still got a lot of that stuff. But my wood axes got lifted.


By the time I die, all my old gear will have to be bequethed i guess...
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Aug 25, 2009 - 06:32pm PT
The oldest of the four above, a first-gen Chouinard, is stamped with the initials "BT."

That stands for Bill Thompson, a sometimes Tetons climber and UC Santa Barbara
art student (1960s) who first taught me how to belay and rappel. Bill periodically
ran out of money and had to sell his climbing gear, which is how I acquired several
carabiners stamped BT.

Anybody know Bill, or what became of him?

Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Aug 25, 2009 - 06:37pm PT
There is a Bill Thompson who lives in Vancouver, but who came here from the US in the late 1960s or early 1970s. He would now be at least 60, maybe more. I'm not sure what he does for a living, but it's something to do with UBC, and he is a climber. If you send me a PM with a bit of information, I can pass it on to him.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Aug 26, 2009 - 12:04am PT
I was given a prototype Eiger hex, made with stock and slung with perlon. It was never used and the guy who gave it to me said he got it in the mid seventies. i will try and get a pic if I can find it in the storage.

It looks brand new, and I have never seen another one in my days of searching.

Anybody know about these?
Studly

Trad climber
WA
Aug 26, 2009 - 12:46am PT
I have personally never seen a Eiger hex. Cool....
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Aug 26, 2009 - 01:08am PT
> The Robbins biners, from the mid/late 1970s, were made from hollow stock, hence the lightness.

There are two kinds of Robbins biners:

1. Robbins/Salewa which is hollow, as described above
My college climbing partner has a bunch of these.
From around 1977.

2. Robbins oval, non hollow, also made by Salewa
Says "R. ROBBINS 3000 lbs." / "SALEWA - W GERMANY"
Rokjox

Trad climber
Boys I'dunno
Aug 26, 2009 - 05:24am PT
The eiger hexes were equalateral weren't they? And solid? No lightening holes?
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Aug 26, 2009 - 06:03am PT
There are two kinds of Robbins biners:

I think both Robbins designs were the first attempts at making lighter-weight
carabiners, a concept that was ahead of its time (though these two specific
designs both had weakness).
Scared Silly

Trad climber
UT
Aug 26, 2009 - 07:14am PT
Here are three biners showing a bit of history:

Left to right, Bedayn with a brake (circa 1950s), Chouinard Alcoa (circa 1960s), Chouinard Featherweight (circa 1980s)

The Featherweight came out about the same time as the Robins. Very ligthweight, enough so that many did not trust them.




RJ - The eiger hexes as I remember were solid - can not remember if they were symmetric or asymmetric. I used to have a couple but sold them along the way.
hooblie

climber
Aug 26, 2009 - 08:11am PT
those hollow robbin's were the mainstay of my rack. rolled out of modesto with three dozen of them,
piloting a vw van one handed and giddily flopping one of those ovals like a vegas card shark.
don't know which makes me queezier, the thinwall at the bow of that van, or the image of a leeper hanger slicing thru that biner.
paradoxically, i lugged some case hardened 11.5mm cord around. (stratos?) never doubted that my whillans trumped a swami.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Aug 26, 2009 - 08:27am PT
don't know which makes me queezier, the thinwall at the bow of that van,
or the image of a leeper hanger slicing thru that biner


Useta seem so easy to shrug & not see the risks. Is it just that we got older,
or did the world change too?
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Aug 26, 2009 - 09:03am PT
Mighty Hiker:
There is a Bill Thompson who lives in Vancouver, but who came here from the US in the late 1960s or early 1970s. He would now be at least 60, maybe more. I'm not sure what he does for a living, but it's something to do with UBC, and he is a climber. If you send me a PM with a bit of information, I can pass it on to him.


There was an earlier discussion about several climbers with this name, but
looking back on that I'm not sure who was who.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Aug 26, 2009 - 10:20am PT
Roc said "The eiger hexes were equalateral weren't they? And solid? No lightening holes?"

YEp that's the one, the stamp "Eiger" is offset at a slight angle. It is a six sided hex.

Damn, alot of stuff to go through but I will get a photo.

What year did they begin manufacturing the hexes?
BoKu

Trad climber
Douglas Flat, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2009 - 09:29am PT
So, what is the relationship between Bedayn and Eiger? Did Bedayn make carabiners under his own name, and then adopt the name Eiger? Or what?

As for my thrift-store Eiger biner, unless anybody wants it for their collection (I'll trade it for any modern wiregate), I'll probably submit it to the Break-o-tron and see where and how it breaks.

Thanks, Bob K.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Aug 30, 2009 - 01:49pm PT
here's a 'biner from my historical stash...





Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Aug 30, 2009 - 03:11pm PT
If memory serves -- and that's a big IF, more knowledgeable folks should jump in here

it was the Chouinard/Salewa biners like Ed's pictured above that were once subject to a
recall.

The recalled ones were all tested, and if they passed (I heard that almost 20% did not!)
they were returned to the owners with a stamp. One of mine has a clear "tested" stamp.

Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Aug 30, 2009 - 03:19pm PT
Others, however (I think in the first round of testing), were stamped with a much less
distinct "T" before the 2200kp label. You can see the "T" right before the "2" on this one.




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