Arrigetch Peaks TR

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ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber

the ground up

Aug 20, 2009 - 01:26am PT

i hope your stuff is going to the print media , alpinist or whatever .

crøtch

climber

Aug 20, 2009 - 03:20am PT

Awesome adventure adn great TR, Prezwoodz. You have a knack for the written word.

Is the Maiden's Nipple to the left or right of the Maidens if you are looking from the vicinity of Shot Tower?

Dirka

Trad climber

Aug 20, 2009 - 04:42am PT

Adventuretasmic!

MisterE

Trad climber

Canoga Porn, CA

Aug 20, 2009 - 05:04am PT

Well done, Gentlemen!

There is nothing like the energy of the sun after a rainy two-day slide alder and creek-scramble sesh - funny how the reward always seems to come to the intrepid...

Amazing shots, and world-class TR!

Thanks.

Zander

Trad climber

Berkeley

Aug 20, 2009 - 10:25am PT

Great trip report. Awesome photos!
Looks like a great adventure.
Zander

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Aug 20, 2009 - 10:29am PT

Now THAT is a TR! And from an exotic locale, no less! Thanks for the fabulous post. Wild country!

Mikemcee

Trad climber

Mill Valley, CA

Aug 20, 2009 - 12:10pm PT

Top notch adventure to an amazing place. Really well done.

cowpoke

climber

Aug 20, 2009 - 01:09pm PT

fabulous trip, fabulous trip report, and fabulous pictures...wow.

BigNick

Trad climber

Los Angeles

Aug 20, 2009 - 02:05pm PT

Re: 1. We found an old cache of gear, this included pitons and ropes from what we guessed was late 60's early 70's. Any ideas on the owner?....

It could be mine!?!

A few years back I went there with a friend with a couple of unclimbed formations in mind. On our way in, a team (stronger then us) was leaving and let us know they ticked those lines. We managed to establish some new pitches in the rain on yet another formation. With time running out, we committed to return to the area in the near future to continue the fun. Embarrassingly, and reluctantly, we did stash some pins, rope and some other gear.

As of now, my friend is planning to return next summer so that at least one of us will honor that obligation and clean up our shite.

Can you guys tell me if you left it there and what the condition was?

I am also wondering if it is actually the same stash we left… because you did not mention the other gear. A lot would depend on how deep you went into those valleys. I know exactly where the stash was.

Thanks!

HighTraverse

Trad climber

Bay Area

Aug 20, 2009 - 05:52pm PT

Terrific TR. Interesting that you went from Coldfoot instead of from Bettles, since Bettles appears to be closer in air miles.

Anyway.
What did you do for bear repellent and protection from?
Did I say your adventure was most excellent?

Ezra

Social climber

WA, NC, Idaho Falls

Aug 20, 2009 - 07:03pm PT

great job!
-bump for the real deal
-e

Guernica

climber

s x sw

Aug 20, 2009 - 09:09pm PT

Dang, those photos were absolutely captivating. Really nice work and thanks for sharing! : )

SteveW

Trad climber

The state of confusion

Aug 20, 2009 - 11:38pm PT

What can you say to that?

What an adventure!!!!!

Thanks for sharing!!!!!!

rhyang

climber

SJC

Aug 21, 2009 - 12:09pm PT

Wow. Fantastic !!

Prezwoodz

Big Wall climber

Anchorage

Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2009 - 03:25pm PT

Thanks again everyone for all the awesome replies! It makes me want to go out and do more adventures just so I can write them up!

crotch: The Maidens Nipple is to the right of the Maidens.

BigNick: The ropes we found were pre-kernmantle ropes. How long ago did you guys go in there? The stash was low in the valley, if you look high on the ridge you can see it was between The Maidens and the Citadel. The cans looked like they were punctured and strewn about. We could tell there were cans of cream of mushroom soup and Secrets. We figured this looked like a bear got to it or some other animal. We stashed the gear under a rock and concealed it with more rocks so that it would blend itself back into the area. We did take a few pitons out with us. Is it yours?

HighTraverse: The difficulty with Bettles is that you have to fly in from Fairbanks adding another ticket price, and they use float planes so you are further from the creeks. We brough one can of bear spray and Rob carried a firearm in with him. We saw only one bear although lots of bear scat. We also had no problems with the animals at all. We did use bear canisters for our food. :)

marty(r)

climber

beneath the valley of ultravegans

Aug 21, 2009 - 03:41pm PT

Fantabulous!

If someone can scan it, David Roberts' narrative 'Shot Tower' and 'Roman Dial and the Alaska Crazies' from _Escape Routes_ and _Moments of Doubt_ would make a great accompaniment.

Jerry, getting any ideas?

Mighty Hiker

Social climber

Vancouver, B.C.

Aug 21, 2009 - 04:52pm PT

Nice report - thanks!

What does "Arrigetch" mean?

TKingsbury

Trad climber

Aug 21, 2009 - 04:56pm PT

Looks like people may have missed this nugget regarding the gear cache upthread:

TomKimbrough wrote:

"Some friends of mine air dropped some gear and food in the Arrigetch for a trip in the mid sixties. They then walked in quite a long distance and never located the air dropped gear. They got some climbing done but I think there was quite a bit of belt-tightening involved due to not having the food that was in the drop.
There should be an American Alpine Journal article (maybe 1965 or 66) on that trip but I don't have the volumes to research it."

So I went and searched it out and here it is:

http://www.americanalpineclub.org/documents/pdf/aaj/1965/315_Bergen_Arrigetch_aaj1965.pdf

Maybe the impact strewn the gear about?