The Hulk: requests from Hoover Wilderness


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Mountain climber
Aug 19, 2010 - 02:35pm PT
bump for a good thread

Trad climber
Ford Pickup Truck, North America
Aug 19, 2010 - 02:47pm PT
nice job Jesse and everyone else involved. It is good to bring light to all of this. i've never been up there, but i think with some added awareness that mess can be cleaned up. Glad the NFS got Yosemite involved. Despite my problems with the valley, the climbing rangers do good work, and the climbing policies are very reasonable. When i finally get out there, i'll be sure to leave some extra room in my pack to carry stuff out.

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Aug 19, 2010 - 03:03pm PT
Thanks to Jesse et al.

(Wow, 44 posts and no one has blamed gym climbers yet. That may be a record).
Wade Icey

Trad climber
Aug 19, 2010 - 03:14pm PT
Thanks Jesse.

Crimpie, I blame Gym climbers and their CATS!!!111666

(but food? what am I missing)?

San Mateo, CA
Aug 19, 2010 - 03:50pm PT
Once again, King of the East Side The Chief gives his $.02 cents about how he doesn't care about anyone but him (i.e. east side locals).

Jesse sounds like a good guy, so I hope he can take one message to his superiors, bosses, the USFS, whoever... modernize.

You say a lot of people don't bother with self serve permits? When I climbed Matterhorn a little while back we stopped by the office in Bridgeport to get our permit. They were out the forms. Well that was a nice waste of our precious morning time.

The internet exists, as do printers. Let us get our permits online, and end this "bullshet" as Chief says of making us jump through hoops to go outside.

Also, I personally do not believe in these limits, and quotas. Yosemite is arguably one of the most beautiful places in the country, and it receives MILLIONS of people per year. So why limit trailhead entries to 8!! people a day in some of these other spots. It's not the government's job to determine what crowded is...if places like the hulk really do end up with big crowds, than climbers and wilderness users should be able to make the decision for themselves that they don't like it, and go elsewhere.

Saying that you don't want to limit the amount of people back there to 8, just the number of people that enter per day to 8, is doublespeak. It should be obvious that many users will want to enter on Friday, so it is obvious what the policy does.

So far the only big complaint or "issue" I really hear about from climbers is litter. This is an individual crime/offense, something that no permit system will magically stop. They don't close down city blocks because people litter in an alleyway that resides in it, why is this different.

A lot of climbers talk a big talk on this board when it comes to politics, yet when it comes to this permit crap, they seem to be a-ok with....
Credit: SeanH

Trad climber
Aug 19, 2010 - 04:26pm PT
Cheers to Jesse.
Thank goodness for people with calmness and a proactive spirit.

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
Aug 19, 2010 - 04:34pm PT
Interesting contrast to see the two different approaches to dealing with the problem at the Hulk and in reality any and all impacted areas in the Sierras.

Jesse the Ranger and our buddy the Chief. Both are concerned about the problem, they just have different ways of describing and dealing with it.

Get ready in the future for your daily quota memorandums on climbing in the Valley and Meadows.

Hey, maybe even a moratorium on guidebooks?

If Bogey were alive and into climbing and it was 50 years ago: "Permits, we don't need no stinking permits."

Alas, times have changed.

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Aug 19, 2010 - 05:46pm PT
Humphry Bogart was in Treasure of the Sierra Madre? huh?

Tony Bird

Northridge, CA
Aug 19, 2010 - 08:15pm PT
from the troller of sierra madre:

"All right," Curtin shouted back. "If you are the police, where are your badges? Let's see them."

"Badges, to god-damned hell with badges! We have no badges. In fact, we don't need badges. I don't have to show you any stinking badges, you god-damned cabrón and ching' tu madre! Come out from that sh#t-hole of yours. I have to speak to you."
Wade Icey

Trad climber
Aug 19, 2010 - 08:17pm PT
tony can you please explain the cat food?

Trad climber
Mountain View
Jun 28, 2012 - 03:27pm PT
Bump for hulk season and taking care of the Hoover Wilderness!


Social climber
Jun 28, 2012 - 09:48pm PT
I trained really hard to do Red Dihedral in good style, C2C. I wouldn't have minded bivying near the route, I just hate heavy packs. I am training hard again to do P.V., C2C, with a partner who is also working his ass off. Next season we will work our asses off AGAIN to do another route in the mountains, and someday I hope to train so hard and become so fit that I can also climb Airstream or Venturi or another hard line.

I would like to see climbers collectively hold a higher standard to style in sensitive areas. I could have probably hung my way up positive vibes last season, or fixed some lines or worked sections over some months. Probably this season I could pull a few 11+ pitches off with work, if I hung on them and rapped in and ticked the right holds and had my gear beta perfect. I know my partner could knock off at least the majority of a 5.12 route there in a year, he is incredibly fit (not to mention young) and motivated. But those things make more sense in Idyllwild, or better yet Owens. There are hundreds of weekend warriors like me that want to go up and enjoy these beautiful places. If you have to thrash the place to make your ascent a possiblity, IT ISN'T AN ASCENT. You didn't climb sh#t. Not there.

Don't work a route above your limit so you can brag on line that you totally sent Red Dihedral, bro. Climb in a style that allows you to not leave an impact aside from chalk and these cliffs will be what they should be, pristine and adventurous.

I appreciate all the work the locals do up there and I feel like a piece of sh#t for not making an effort to join the cleanup, because as much as I think I am not making an impact on some scale I am... we all are. Lets make it less K?
Wade Icey

Trad climber
Jun 28, 2012 - 09:58pm PT
Good job on RD. the clean up was in 2009.

Did you guys see any cats up there?
Mighty Hiker

Vancouver, B.C.
Jun 28, 2012 - 10:06pm PT
Are there human waste and water quality issues up there?
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