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altieboo
Boulder climber
Livermore, Ca
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Aug 18, 2009 - 01:06pm PT
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Best thing to start my morning with!
F*#k ya I tied a knob!
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
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Aug 18, 2009 - 03:45pm PT
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Too Good to be Off The Front Page™ ™ ™ ™ bump...
03:55: "Did you tie a knob?"
"Fuçk yeah, I tied a knob!" (laughter)
"Nice, dude"...
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Aug 18, 2009 - 04:15pm PT
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This is how I always pictured Kauk, Long and those guys as kids doing what they did. I remember first learning about The Free Nose and Astroman, and picturing guys that were in their 40's....like Harding looking dudes. Then I found out how young they were and I had a hard time wrapping my brain around it.
These new guys...Honnold, Kenedy, etc...are in the same zone it appears. I hope they live through it. Its inspiring and freaky at the same time.
I really believe these guys have no reference for fear. Its like the 13 year old who goes to the Olympics and shreds it, holding their teddy bear on the podium. My wife went to Olympic trials as a kid and had no fear. Four years later the immensity of it was nearly paralyzing.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Aug 18, 2009 - 04:19pm PT
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That was a terrific vid, thanks for posting.
The other BD vimeo vids are sweet too, the gritstone, Alex in Indian Creek, and that Ruth Gorge one. Really great stuff!
Re: Hayden, he seemed like a super psyched, super strong young guy, more power to him!
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Michael Kennedy
Social climber
Carbondale, Colorado
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Aug 18, 2009 - 05:01pm PT
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Thanks for the positive comments. Busy editing so I just caught this thread.
Ed B. - The talent is all Hayden's - he's worked hard and has incredible psyche.
Tami - He's heading back for additional coursework at U of Y in a couple of weeks.
Jingy and others - He's got a healthy sense of what's reasonable and what's not, for him. Still, I do worry about the big runouts sometimes.
Peter H. - He knows how "old-school" the B-Y is. I think it's just starting to dawn on him that "old-school" may be where the future lies.
David H. - Hayden started looking at old issues of Ascent and Climbing and reading stuff out of Games Climbers Play a few years after you met him. Seems like he remembers some of it!
Jeff - If I were still that skinny I'd be able to climb better than 5.9! Hayden was so thrilled to have the chance to hang out with you in Ogden. Magical.
JLP - He's 19 now, just graduated from high school. Didn't onsight Cookie Monster on gear, he did that a couple of years ago with the bolts (and hauled my sorry ass up it) so this year was a repeat. Not sure about the competitive part, he pushes hard but seems pretty genuine in encouraging others.
Yes, I'm biased but what the heck.
Here's where I get to really embarrass the poor kid.
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fluffy
Trad climber
boulder
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Aug 18, 2009 - 05:53pm PT
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wow that really is embarrassing
well done
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
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Aug 18, 2009 - 06:04pm PT
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In the video Hayden says Wolfgang Güllich broke his leg after falling. I'm pretty sure that's KNOTT the case:
from "Sea of Domes", by Steve Schneider, Climbing #127, 1991
(as posted by Clint Cummins in the 213-post Bachar-Yerrian???? thread (among posts 61-80):
Germany's Wolfgang Gullich and Thierry Renault of France attempted the route in 1982 as well. Gullich fell on the big runout on pitch one but was saved from decking on the slab by a knob he had tied off [with 5mm cord - he went 30 feet]. Renault's go-for-it attitude on the second pitch resulted in successive falls of 30 [and 60] feet. The two retreated [as Gullich's knuckles and face had been bloodied holding the longer fall]. [corrections from John Bachar's post below]
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Delhi Dog
Trad climber
Good Question...
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Aug 19, 2009 - 10:23am PT
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I'm late to the party but, cool vid thanks for sharing.
Around minute 2.50 or so he is praising those that came before...
rickd sorry dude I think you must have missed that.
Michael-you should be bias, and proud.
Fun to sit back and watch these young'uns go for it.
Tami as usual you nailed it.
cheers,
DD
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Aug 19, 2009 - 11:08am PT
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This is what we get for putting an Irish Catholic in the White House....
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Aug 19, 2009 - 12:23pm PT
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Thanks for posting this. Amazing! No doubt that's the closest I'll ever get to climbing the BY, so I appreciate it.
The other BD vimeo vids are sweet too, the gritstone, Alex in Indian Creek, and that Ruth Gorge one. Really great stuff!
Agreed. I'd seen that video of Alex Honnold at the Creek before, but it's still one of the most inspiring clips I've ever seen.
GO
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