Third Pillar of Dana - Am I going to die?

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 92 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Lynne Leichtfuss

Social climber
valley center, ca
Aug 7, 2009 - 05:47pm PT
Super nice pics Walleye. Rock and Route seems to be pure 10k gold....beautiful.

Uhhh, don't even think the D word Dude.....don't even....life is still to raw for too many of us. Think send and peace. lynnie
Srbphoto

Trad climber
Kennewick wa
Aug 7, 2009 - 05:52pm PT
Hey Walleye,

Is that Eric Gompper on lead?

That guy was fun to climb with.
rockermike

Mountain climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 7, 2009 - 06:08pm PT
damn; partner just bailed. Sudden work commitments. (ha)
Anyone else want to take a shot at it, Sun or Mon (or even Tues)?
Wunderground says the weather will be stable.

Or maybe I should just tie 3 ropes together, throw them off the top, rap down and top rope the thing. Is that unethical? ha I can see the ST thread now; "Who the hell has fixed ropes on the third pillar...?!" Hey dude, I'm just working the moves for my red point.
Lynne Leichtfuss

Social climber
valley center, ca
Aug 7, 2009 - 06:14pm PT
Good luck rocker......I'm pretty new but this rock/route looks like something really xtra special. I would treat it as such. Find the right karma and make it the memory of a lifetime. Jess Sayin. Lynnie

Ps, only rock that has put a hand on my heart. May have to get zerious......
nature

climber
Tucson, AZ
Aug 7, 2009 - 06:15pm PT
No... but do remember one thing.






































YER GONNA DIE!!!!!1116666








great route!
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Aug 7, 2009 - 06:23pm PT


When you look over the edge and see what you are descending to commit to, if gives you a sick feeling or thrill or both. But It's all there. Once you are at the base, it doesn't look so bad



Peace

Karl
Zander

Trad climber
Berkeley
Aug 7, 2009 - 06:31pm PT
Hey Mighty,
The thing about this route is you hike to the top of the route, then you climb down a "class three" rib to level with the start of the route. You then cross a gully or snow field to the start. If you wear your rock shoes and you have good route finding skills it's mellow.... or you can easily venture into class five terrain and wonder what is going on. When hail and lightning caused us to retreat from the climb after 3 and 1/2 pitches, we were at the bottom of the rib. We still had to climb out to get to the hike to our car! We finally made a run for it and my partner and I got separated by a few feet and then I got off route on the slick, wet rib and soloed some 5.7, which was dicey. So the descent to the start can contribute to interesting times.
Zander

Edit- What Karl said. Ha ha
rockermike

Mountain climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 7, 2009 - 06:36pm PT
Hey karl, nice photos. As I understand, to get to start at some point you cross over the snow and on to a ledge system - you don't go all the way down to the toe. Is the beginning of the route shown in that lower photo of yours?
Fuzzywuzzy

climber
Aug 7, 2009 - 06:37pm PT
Done it 3 times.

The lower crux is not that easy. But I don't pull plastic.

There are options but they all deal you some spice.

I don't remember the pro being that close as you hand traverse out above the pin.

Is that pin still there?

Get solid time on stuff that aren't that committing - people fall off - some get banged up.

Fatherly advice.
Lynne Leichtfuss

Social climber
valley center, ca
Aug 7, 2009 - 06:46pm PT
Wow Karl, fabulous photos. I know this is a dumb question but I really dislike approaches and descending because they are vagaries. Sometimes Unroped and whatever. This climb looks like a truly stellar send. What up with getting there and getting down?

Never really cared about a rock before. I mean I love to climb stuff, but this creation is special.
Lynne Leichtfuss

Social climber
valley center, ca
Aug 7, 2009 - 07:23pm PT
So any of you Dudes got more beta or pics on this glorious piece of the planet. I've never asked for info before. All rock seemed to me rock. Yeah I know the different compositions and such.... This seems special. Jess asking .... lynne
rockermike

Mountain climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 7, 2009 - 07:26pm PT
there are some real nice photos at bottom of this page

http://www.summitpost.org/route/279480/third-pillar-of-dana-regular-route.html
Daphne

Trad climber
Mill Valley, CA
Aug 7, 2009 - 08:23pm PT
Hey Lynne, I totally agree. I fell deeply entranced with this route the moment I heard about it/saw it. It is on my tick list for next summer. I am going to go spend a week in Tuolumne and get acclimated... I follow all Third Pillar threads with great interest. (sorry for mild thread drift)
Lynne Leichtfuss

Social climber
valley center, ca
Aug 7, 2009 - 08:38pm PT
Wow, D. can't believe it. I've never even heard of 3P. Special. I'm putting it at the top of my life list. Peace, Lynne
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Aug 7, 2009 - 08:44pm PT
Pillar party?
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Aug 7, 2009 - 08:47pm PT
If one climbed the route, then mailed a letter...

would one be going from pillar to post?

Edit: And if it snowed while one was on the climb...

would one go from pillar to postholing?
Lynne Leichtfuss

Social climber
valley center, ca
Aug 7, 2009 - 08:48pm PT
Yeah, gotta make sure I can make it happen. Peace, lrl.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Aug 7, 2009 - 08:51pm PT
hey there say, rockermike...
you know, there is a right time for everything... when the time is right, you will have that ol' gut feeling, needless to say...

and the right folks will be there...


say--walleye... my OH my... what a candid-camera shot as to your face... the eyes are the mirror to the ol' soul... :)


say, and ron anderson---say, well, no harm in the bright clothes, whether expecting a rescue or not... :)


say, and karl---oh say, i just LOVE that rock... great PICS!... VERY NICE.. say thanks to the other for the links, too...


will be praying that all goes well, rockermike... when you do it, make us a nice titled post, so we won't miss it and can share in your joy...
god bless...
Zander

Trad climber
Berkeley
Aug 7, 2009 - 08:57pm PT
Dawn, third Pillar is bump on the right, I think


Looking back up the approach rib.


The pillar


Low on the climb



Much later, a break in the rain

Lynne Leichtfuss

Social climber
valley center, ca
Aug 7, 2009 - 09:02pm PT
Thanks Zander, quite beautiful......
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