Third Pillar of Dana - Am I going to die?

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rockermike

Mountain climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 7, 2009 - 04:01pm PT
Finally found a willing partner - but now suddenly he is talking down his lead ability. Looks like I'm going to be on the sharp end for all 5 pitches. And I'm only a 5.9 leader. ha
Am I going to die?

Reading the T/Rs, some say the 10b face move(by the pin) thingy is only 5.7.?? "Its a cruse". But others say the pitch 2 10a flared finger crack is stiff. Will I be able to fall back on my well developed french technique, or do I actually have to climb the thing?

The photos are wonderful. Got to go up there just to touch that beautiful rock.

thanks for all the advice in advance
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Aug 7, 2009 - 04:03pm PT
yer gunna...
Zander

Trad climber
Berkeley
Aug 7, 2009 - 04:31pm PT
Rockermike,
This is a great climb, at least the first 3 1/2 pitches are. We got hailed off and retreated, hunkering down for two hours under a rock at the base while our approach shoes filled up with hail at the top.
I'm a 5.9 kind of guy too. I pulled through on gear leading P2, the 10a or 10b pitch depending on what topo you read. It went fine. We didn't get to higher crux. Give us a TR when you get back.
Zander
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Aug 7, 2009 - 04:37pm PT
I don't have a topo in front of me but the only .10b I know of are some face moves past a fixed pin up high. I don't know if you can yard past it. The thin crack leading up to the chimney flake isn't too steep (more delicate stuff) and can probably yard on gear. The last pitch isn't too bad either and the pro's decent. I say go for it. It's worth it just for the hike across the Dana Plateau.
mongrel

Trad climber
Truckee, CA
Aug 7, 2009 - 04:43pm PT
Ditto Munge - only you really will if there's lightning when you're topping out. Go early, climb fast. The little teeny bit of 10b isn't 5.7 at all, certainly 10a or b but extremely short. To French it, you might need an extra one or two very small TCUs or C3s. Seems to me I remember a purple and/or blue Metolius TCU for pro, but in between where the one or two moves are, you might need smaller if you're going to yard. It's a bit flared and bottomed so C3s or tiny aliens only 2 cams in would be better than U-cabled TCUs. Better still, get a couple good pieces and just fire the two lieback moves, totally doable by a solid 5.9 leader. The upper part of the last pitch is easier than it looks from either below or the side. But no matter, once you get there you have no choice but to fire through to the top.
F10

Trad climber
e350
Aug 7, 2009 - 04:46pm PT
The sharp end is what it's all about
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Aug 7, 2009 - 04:51pm PT
You're mostly likely to die on the descent to the base than anywhere else.

A 5.9 leader better be solid up there if you ask me but you won't die. A scary fall flopping around and banging something hard is, however, a fair possibility. Do as I say and not as I do....wear a helmet.

Don't think it's easy to A0 everywhere you want but if you start early and its a period of no thunderstorms, you'll probably have a safe enough adventure if you bail before pushing way over your head (if it comes to that) so bring some nuts and slings and a headlamp. It's not do or die unless you set it up that way

PEace

Karl
Karla

climber
Colorado
Aug 7, 2009 - 04:59pm PT
We did it a week ago and watched 2 parties below us bail: 1 party started at ~noon(not to good of a choice, we joked that it must be Hans & Yuji and they'll be at our belay in the next 5 minutes), the other party moved slowly and opted to bail due to the thickening clouds. I would hate the hike out from the bottom!

Start the hike EARLY! It might be a little spicy in spots for the 5.9 leader, just give yourself plenty of time.

Have a blast and take it all in. Let us know how it goes!

Sniff, sniff...I sure miss the smell of the Sierra's:)
Dingus Milktoast

climber
Aug 7, 2009 - 05:06pm PT
I think most people who characterize themselves as 5.9 leaders would be challenged by this route.

But I'd be more worried about your partner than the route. Me? I would insist your shrinking ball partner either girl's up or you find someone more willing.

DMT
Walleye

climber
A hard right down Big Tujunga Canyon
Aug 7, 2009 - 05:07pm PT
The crux pitch of the route. The juicy mantle awaits you, and the air is thin at 12,000 ft. Rope gun Eric Gompper




See the look in those eyes? I was a super solid 5.9 leader at this time. I followed this crux pitch. Your mileage may vary.
WBraun

climber
Aug 7, 2009 - 05:14pm PT
When I free soloed it, I was cruising along real nice until the crux pitch. Damn ... it woke me right up on a couple of sporty moves there.

I probably had the same look Walleye did.

That's the only part of the route I remember ......
Dingus Milktoast

climber
Aug 7, 2009 - 05:20pm PT
Walleye that's classic (as is your name)

DMT
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
Boise....
Aug 7, 2009 - 05:49pm PT
That's SHEER TERROR!
WallEye!!!!!
You thought you were a GONER!
Cheers.......Wait for it......Yer Gonna Die. Fer sure. Sometime.
medusa

Trad climber
culver city
Aug 7, 2009 - 06:01pm PT
If you need to ask for advice here you must not have any friends that climb. Just go do it. way easy.
unless all you do is clip bolts? lol!
pip the dog

Mountain climber
planet dogboy
Aug 7, 2009 - 06:20pm PT
i've been following this thread bouncing between the poles of "ah sure, do it" and "errr, wait a bit and work up to it".

that and i have a personal rule of never saying "go for it!" (or the opposite) to people i haven't actually climbed with.

so i won't answer your question. feel free to hit [PgDn] now.
~~~

what i will do is give you more questions:

 the only way to get from being a solid .9 leader to being a solid .10 leader is going out and taking on some .10 (ideally starting at the softer end of the grade). but is an alpine route -- albeit a short one with exquisite rock -- really the place to push your current comfort zone? perhaps a well protected roadside one or two pitch crag would be a better place to do the work to be confident that you can cruise most any .10 (except perhaps Jello's infamous "thought provoking" alpine "F10"s)

 have you done a bunch of long alpine routes before? are you comfortable reading the weather and finding the route (up and down) 'out there'? do you know how to bail quicky and safely when you hear the rock buzz and the air tastes like biting down on tin foil while wearing braces [think lightning]?

 me, when i push my limits, either at the local roadside belay off the bumper crag or something alpine, i (like anyone) much prefer to do it with one of my (many) betters, who i know for sure can float the route at will, close behind me. alas, this is not always available. but i myself wouldn't push my limits without at least a partner i knew for certain (because i've climbed a lot with them) was at least as with-it and committed to the next step as i am (not an especially elite group).
~~~

all that said, it is an exquisite route with outstanding rock -- even for sierra alpine (which ties with chamonix' best as the absolute gold standard for alpine). but it's not pywiack dome. there is the occasional loose rock, and ledges big enough that falling onto one is effectively a groundfall. i found the cruxes brief and at the softer end of .10 -- i also found the route a legitimate workout as we raced the weather.

you _definately_ should do it. it's a winner. whether just now is the time, and whether the partner currently available to you is the person to share it with, is entirely up to you.

when you do do it, do start _really_ early (especially in august), and do wear a quality helmet.

that's a lot of do do, isn't it?

be well, have fun.


^,,^

[PS: you are surely going to die; but probably not on Dana)
Walleye

climber
A hard right down Big Tujunga Canyon
Aug 7, 2009 - 06:24pm PT
That's good advice there, Pip.
hooblie

climber
Aug 7, 2009 - 06:55pm PT
"i (like anyone) much prefer to do it with one of my (many) betters who i know for sure can float the route at will. alas, this is not always available. but i myself wouldn't push my limits without at least a partner i knew for certain"

short term memory self check: qouteing pip or the OP's (rockermike's) partner? can rocker for sure float the pillar? if so, why bother? i joke.

reminds me of our self mockery as lethargists at the end of an undeserved rest day..."clearly we could climb that stuff so why should we?"
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Aug 7, 2009 - 07:11pm PT
suggest you hear some nice bright colors easy for the choppers to pick you out of the talus that way LOL!!!!!!
Mr_T

Trad climber
The 7th Pin Scar on Serentiy Crack
Aug 7, 2009 - 08:05pm PT
If you can cruise Crescent Arch and Lucky streaks, you'll be fine.
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Aug 7, 2009 - 08:06pm PT
Twice upthread posters have said "...the descent to the base..."

Is there somewhere else one would descend to?
Lynne Leichtfuss

Social climber
valley center, ca
Aug 7, 2009 - 08:47pm PT
Super nice pics Walleye. Rock and Route seems to be pure 10k gold....beautiful.

Uhhh, don't even think the D word Dude.....don't even....life is still to raw for too many of us. Think send and peace. lynnie
Srbphoto

Trad climber
Kennewick wa
Aug 7, 2009 - 08:52pm PT
Hey Walleye,

Is that Eric Gompper on lead?

That guy was fun to climb with.
rockermike

Mountain climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 7, 2009 - 09:08pm PT
damn; partner just bailed. Sudden work commitments. (ha)
Anyone else want to take a shot at it, Sun or Mon (or even Tues)?
Wunderground says the weather will be stable.

Or maybe I should just tie 3 ropes together, throw them off the top, rap down and top rope the thing. Is that unethical? ha I can see the ST thread now; "Who the hell has fixed ropes on the third pillar...?!" Hey dude, I'm just working the moves for my red point.
Lynne Leichtfuss

Social climber
valley center, ca
Aug 7, 2009 - 09:14pm PT
Good luck rocker......I'm pretty new but this rock/route looks like something really xtra special. I would treat it as such. Find the right karma and make it the memory of a lifetime. Jess Sayin. Lynnie

Ps, only rock that has put a hand on my heart. May have to get zerious......
nature

climber
Tucson, AZ
Aug 7, 2009 - 09:15pm PT
No... but do remember one thing.






































YER GONNA DIE!!!!!1116666








great route!
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Aug 7, 2009 - 09:23pm PT


When you look over the edge and see what you are descending to commit to, if gives you a sick feeling or thrill or both. But It's all there. Once you are at the base, it doesn't look so bad



Peace

Karl
Zander

Trad climber
Berkeley
Aug 7, 2009 - 09:31pm PT
Hey Mighty,
The thing about this route is you hike to the top of the route, then you climb down a "class three" rib to level with the start of the route. You then cross a gully or snow field to the start. If you wear your rock shoes and you have good route finding skills it's mellow.... or you can easily venture into class five terrain and wonder what is going on. When hail and lightning caused us to retreat from the climb after 3 and 1/2 pitches, we were at the bottom of the rib. We still had to climb out to get to the hike to our car! We finally made a run for it and my partner and I got separated by a few feet and then I got off route on the slick, wet rib and soloed some 5.7, which was dicey. So the descent to the start can contribute to interesting times.
Zander

Edit- What Karl said. Ha ha
rockermike

Mountain climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 7, 2009 - 09:36pm PT
Hey karl, nice photos. As I understand, to get to start at some point you cross over the snow and on to a ledge system - you don't go all the way down to the toe. Is the beginning of the route shown in that lower photo of yours?
Fuzzywuzzy

climber
Aug 7, 2009 - 09:37pm PT
Done it 3 times.

The lower crux is not that easy. But I don't pull plastic.

There are options but they all deal you some spice.

I don't remember the pro being that close as you hand traverse out above the pin.

Is that pin still there?

Get solid time on stuff that aren't that committing - people fall off - some get banged up.

Fatherly advice.
Lynne Leichtfuss

Social climber
valley center, ca
Aug 7, 2009 - 09:46pm PT
Wow Karl, fabulous photos. I know this is a dumb question but I really dislike approaches and descending because they are vagaries. Sometimes Unroped and whatever. This climb looks like a truly stellar send. What up with getting there and getting down?

Never really cared about a rock before. I mean I love to climb stuff, but this creation is special.
Lynne Leichtfuss

Social climber
valley center, ca
Aug 7, 2009 - 10:23pm PT
So any of you Dudes got more beta or pics on this glorious piece of the planet. I've never asked for info before. All rock seemed to me rock. Yeah I know the different compositions and such.... This seems special. Jess asking .... lynne
rockermike

Mountain climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 7, 2009 - 10:26pm PT
there are some real nice photos at bottom of this page

http://www.summitpost.org/route/279480/third-pillar-of-dana-regular-route.html
Daphne

Trad climber
Mill Valley, CA
Aug 7, 2009 - 11:23pm PT
Hey Lynne, I totally agree. I fell deeply entranced with this route the moment I heard about it/saw it. It is on my tick list for next summer. I am going to go spend a week in Tuolumne and get acclimated... I follow all Third Pillar threads with great interest. (sorry for mild thread drift)
Lynne Leichtfuss

Social climber
valley center, ca
Aug 7, 2009 - 11:38pm PT
Wow, D. can't believe it. I've never even heard of 3P. Special. I'm putting it at the top of my life list. Peace, Lynne
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Aug 7, 2009 - 11:44pm PT
Pillar party?
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Aug 7, 2009 - 11:47pm PT
If one climbed the route, then mailed a letter...

would one be going from pillar to post?

Edit: And if it snowed while one was on the climb...

would one go from pillar to postholing?
Lynne Leichtfuss

Social climber
valley center, ca
Aug 7, 2009 - 11:48pm PT
Yeah, gotta make sure I can make it happen. Peace, lrl.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Aug 7, 2009 - 11:51pm PT
hey there say, rockermike...
you know, there is a right time for everything... when the time is right, you will have that ol' gut feeling, needless to say...

and the right folks will be there...


say--walleye... my OH my... what a candid-camera shot as to your face... the eyes are the mirror to the ol' soul... :)


say, and ron anderson---say, well, no harm in the bright clothes, whether expecting a rescue or not... :)


say, and karl---oh say, i just LOVE that rock... great PICS!... VERY NICE.. say thanks to the other for the links, too...


will be praying that all goes well, rockermike... when you do it, make us a nice titled post, so we won't miss it and can share in your joy...
god bless...
Zander

Trad climber
Berkeley
Aug 7, 2009 - 11:57pm PT
Dawn, third Pillar is bump on the right, I think


Looking back up the approach rib.


The pillar


Low on the climb



Much later, a break in the rain

Lynne Leichtfuss

Social climber
valley center, ca
Aug 8, 2009 - 12:02am PT
Thanks Zander, quite beautiful......
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Aug 8, 2009 - 12:07am PT
`This pillar looks great!
Learn to be a lead hog,you get the best of every route. Don't be LIGHT !
yours
Jim
Daphne

Trad climber
Mill Valley, CA
Aug 8, 2009 - 12:09am PT
Wow Zander- those are magical photos. Come with us next year and do it again or even, again.
mongrel

Trad climber
Truckee, CA
Aug 8, 2009 - 12:23am PT
Zander, GREAT photo of the approach rib, that's just the way it is: a big giant house of cards. If there's an earthquake while you're on that thing, yer definitely gonna...
Lynne Leichtfuss

Social climber
valley center, ca
Aug 8, 2009 - 12:30am PT
mongrel, can't think of a better way to send to the heavenlies. lrl
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Aug 8, 2009 - 12:34am PT
"Hey karl, nice photos. As I understand, to get to start at some point you cross over the snow and on to a ledge system - you don't go all the way down to the toe. Is the beginning of the route shown in that lower photo of yours?"

There's a variation where you start at the toe or you can start a few pitches higher by traversing the ledge. Most Traverse. Didn't see it obvious in my photo.

The descent from Dana Plateau is loose and therefore scary. Not just loose like you grab a few things that move. Loose like you are walking over unstable stuff and sometimes there's nothing solid to grab. Now there are several ways to get down the rib and some are far less sketchy than others. I found that downclimbing the bigger rocks near the arete of the rib was more solid than starting further to the North away from the Pillar and walking easier but far looser ground.

Then there's routefinding when you reach a gully, which you can climb over to the other side or go way down and around and up. It can be confusing.

Full value route even though it's not super pumpy. Talked to a few climbers who felt surprised by it.

Used to be rated 5.9 (ma) didn't it?

Peace

Karl
Fletcher

Trad climber
a buttery white sand beach... I wish!
Aug 8, 2009 - 12:52am PT
It's quite stunning and easy to pick out as you drive up Lee Vining Canyon as well (and changes with the light throughout the day).

One of these days, when I get a lot more mileage and a lot more confident I might just climb that thing....

Eric
BlueDragon

climber
Bay Area, CA
Aug 8, 2009 - 12:55am PT

I agree with all who said make sure the time is right.

Listen to Pip's advice. I did almost all those things wrong (there is a post on rec.climbing from over 15 years ago...) and I'm lucky to be able to tell the story. All I got was a permanent dent in the butt. It is a fantastic route, and you definitely want to enjoy it, so stack all the odds in your favor. I lead most of it, and I remember the top particularly well. By then I already had the dent in my butt, so I was very cautious, and sinking two pieces of pro every 5 feet, in between those great hand and arm jams. Earlier on, I went slightly off route. In Wallyeye's photo of the leader, you can see the pro to the right of where the leader came up. For me it was to the left, until I straightened myself out. (After all these years, weird to see that photo and that very piece of rock where I went wrong...) Since I had a near miss, I thought constantly for the next two weeks about what happened, what was done wrong (lots of things) and what I would do next time. Most of them are in Pip's list.
Lynne Leichtfuss

Social climber
valley center, ca
Aug 8, 2009 - 12:59am PT
Thanks Blue Dragon and Pip, of Course....serious and a newbie like me needs to consider it. Again dankeschoern....lynne
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Aug 8, 2009 - 01:02am PT
Do IT! Leading every pitch would be awsome. Consider yourself lucky your partner has the Pre-Pre Snaileye, His loss.

Send!!
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Aug 8, 2009 - 01:03am PT
Agree that Crescent ARch and Lucky streaks would be good tests for Third Pillar.

If you're not sure of going fast, know this...No matter how sunny and nice it seems when you are climbing in the sun, when the sun goes past the rock in the early afternoon, it's almost always dang cold on third pillar so climb with a layer and hat in your pack.

PEace

Karl
Fletcher

Trad climber
a buttery white sand beach... I wish!
Aug 8, 2009 - 02:02am PT
By the way, Zander, as a slightly younger guy than you, you are an inspiration to me. Your TR of Steck-Salathe is awesome! Likewise with the TPoD.

Eric
kovarpa

Mountain climber
Bay Area
Aug 8, 2009 - 02:07am PT
party above us slipped and broke an ankle. you may die or hurt yourself if you fall in a bad spot. just like anywhere else in alpine.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Aug 8, 2009 - 03:31am PT
Hear that Zander? He called you OLd!
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Aug 8, 2009 - 03:40am PT
hey there say, wow.. lots of you all are here...

hey there to you all!


say, zander, oh my YES, THOSE ARE lovely photos... oh my...

crisp and clear, and "speaking" out to us...

thanks for all these shares, all...

:)
redrocker

climber
Las Vegas, Nevada
Aug 8, 2009 - 04:34am PT
rockermike,
Thanks for starting a great thread. Have really enjoyed ALL the replies and pics. Really got to single out pip the dog's post on page one though. Wisdom and humility in them words. I wanna climb Third Pillar with pip.

Zander

Trad climber
Berkeley
Aug 8, 2009 - 11:21am PT
Daphne,
I still gotta finish this thing! It would be fun with you guys.


"Hear that Zander? He called you OLd!"
Dammit Karl, how did he find out!

Fletcher,
Glad you liked the Steck Salathe TR. Climb on!

Zander
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Aug 8, 2009 - 11:27am PT
I added a link to this to the Route Beta page http://www.supertopo.com/rock_climbing/route_beta.php?r=tuthregu
scooter

climber
fist clamp
Aug 8, 2009 - 11:38am PT
""
JAkey on the last pitch

If this guy can do it anyone can. It is kind of a steep jugwalk.
10b4me

Gym climber
Happy Boulders
Aug 9, 2009 - 06:13pm PT
Dana Plateau, and Glacier Canyon are really neat places
Lynne Leichtfuss

Social climber
valley center, ca
Aug 9, 2009 - 06:24pm PT
Still as beautiful as the last time. Sigh, So much to do .... so poquito tiempo.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Aug 9, 2009 - 06:33pm PT
We're all going to die...

but in the meantime, you should go and climb it...

from the west side above the descent:



Did someone mention that the last pitch is steep?
These taken from the east side:





these from a hike that Debbie and I did last year
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=647242&msg=647242#msg647242

http://home.comcast.net/~e.hartouni/botany/hikes/080803/DanaPlateau.html

D still hasn't given me all the IDs yet... I'll ping here today for what she's got...
TKW

Trad climber
Currently Nomadic
Aug 10, 2009 - 12:46am PT
My Picasa site has some good pics, including a couple from the "10b" section.

I'd say it depends what kind of "5.9" leader you are... IMHO the third pillar is really just a stiff 5.9, on the order of higher cathedral spire, NE Buttress of Higher Cathedral, crescent arch, etc., maybe a bit harder than Central Pillar of Frenzy.

On the other hand, if you can do any of those 5.9s, there are probably quite a few 10bs you feel ok on too. See how you feel. I say go for it - it's all well protected. Others have said this, but start EARLY, or be prepared to retreat. Also, do a few climbs in Tuolumne first to get acclimated. The 5.7 offwidth at 11000 feet was pretty winding.

Do it at some point though - amazing climb. And get someone to come along and take sweet pictures of you like Ed Hartouni posted.
Splater

climber
Grey Matter
Aug 10, 2009 - 04:21pm PT
Speaking of the Gomppers,
I would like to get a copy of the Rexrode guide (Mt Woodson) if anyone has a clue.

Flanders!

Trad climber
June Lake, CA
Aug 10, 2009 - 06:02pm PT
No, it's unlikely that you'll die, BUT...........

I was there with a client a few weeks ago, and came upon a guy prussiking up the 4th
pitch. Seems he whipped off, badly breaking his right ankle. He was attempting the 10a variation on the right side of the big flake, (4th pitch). There was another party
already helping out and we jumped in as well. We hauled the fella up the last pitch, then, given that he could not walk, a number of us carried him all the way back to the cars at Tioga Lake. What a workout !

the moral, use a rope and pro early and often.

Doug
Bad Climber

climber
Aug 10, 2009 - 06:05pm PT
Did this for the first time a couple of years ago. Holy cats one of the best climbs ever. I forgot the topo, so we wondered around to the left a bit after the first pitch but finally hit the line above the chimney flake--all good climbing, btw.

I didn't lead the last pitch but did lead the "10b" face--tricky, but good pro and only a few thin moves. Not a big worry in my book. I was concerned about the so-called "mantel" at the top, thinking of some foot dangling horror above the abyss. It's NOT that at all. In fact, I didn't even mantel. I found a couple of excellent rails leading a bit right of the summit horn and just pulled up--easy, juggy fun! I couldn't find no stinkin' mantel--at least not one that was mandatory in any way.

I'll second the comments on the last pitch--great pro, good rests, top 1% of pitches I've done anywhere, maybe the best period.

I'm hoping to do this route again next year with my wife.

If you are truly a confident 5.9 leader--cracks, face, corners, the works, then you're probably capable of a bunch of easy 10's, too. Go try a few shorter 10a/b cracks. If they feel okay, then load up your pack and git 'er done.

bAd
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Aug 10, 2009 - 06:07pm PT
hey there ed hardini... say, fantastic pics!

good view, and crisp and all... thanks for the share...
not only are you all at supertopo great climbers, you are great photographers, as well... :)



*say, flanders, now i have an idea of the 'mountain guide' note, that i did not understand, thanks for the share---very glad the guy was only broken, as to ankle... as we all know, such things could have been worse...

Walleye

climber
A hard right down Big Tujunga Canyon
Aug 10, 2009 - 06:11pm PT
That 3rd photo that Hartouni has posted above really does say/show it all. I kinda forgot about the steepness there. Outstanding!
Flanders!

Trad climber
June Lake, CA
Aug 10, 2009 - 06:17pm PT
Walleye?

is that really you in those pics ????

Doug
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Aug 10, 2009 - 06:45pm PT
There may be a tiny bit of tilt on Ed's last photo! It doesn't overhang like that. There are lots of good rests.
A "must do" for any Sierra climber, mega classic.

The 5.8 hand traverse down low is fun!
rockermike

Mountain climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2009 - 05:39pm PT
Third Pillar met and conquered - with the help of a Supertopo rope gun.

Route more difficult than I expected, but my partner, who I picked up sight unseen off of Supertopo, pulled off all the hard pitches.

10b "crux" (traverse after pin) has an easy work around in my opinion. Particularly if you are willing to step on the pin. ha

Last 10a layback bit on pitch 5 shut me down. I blame it on being height challenged (my common excuse), but I could see this bomber finger lock that was just 8 inches out of reach as I repeatedly barn doored off the delicate smearing layback. Granted it was the end of a long day and I had a pack on but shit; didn't feel like any 10a to me. After 4 failed stabs at it (each ending with a discouraging 5 foot rope stretching descent back to the ledge) I resorted to bat-manning up the rope. First time I've ever had to resort to that. But hey, whatever gets the job done. (see Walleye's first picture at the top of the thread for exact location; pro in right crack but we climbed the left crack. not sure if there is another option)

Beautiful weather, 8 people - conga line style - on route that day. Incredibly beautiful location - and sufficient time waiting at belays to take it all in.

Here's Bryce finishing up final pitch.


Bad Climber

climber
Aug 17, 2009 - 05:49pm PT
Yo, Rocker! Congrats. Glad you had a good time--and you didn't die. Can't beat that.

bAd
Nor Cal

Trad climber
San Mateo
Aug 17, 2009 - 05:49pm PT
karl:
From the approach, where I thought I was going to die:
Mt Dana:
Walleye

climber
In the Aviary studying trees
Aug 17, 2009 - 05:51pm PT
Allright! Good job and you lived to tell about it.
Nefarius

Big Wall climber
Fresno
Aug 17, 2009 - 05:57pm PT
DIdn't someone here post a pic a while back of a mt. lion that was at the base of Dana, looking up at them? Might have been somewhere else, but pretty sure it was at Dana.
Zander

Trad climber
Berkeley
Aug 17, 2009 - 05:58pm PT
Awesome rockermike!
That was the first time you ever had to batman up a rope. I envy you!
Great job.
Zander
rockermike

Mountain climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 18, 2009 - 11:18am PT
A fellow supertopo member sent me this beta back channel. Now I re-read it I'd say its spot on - except the 5.8 bit I don't actually remember. What I do remember is the 5.6 chimney just after pitch 2's 10a is way hard with a pack on (oh, maybe that is the 5.8 he's talking about?). Thanks again Ben.

"The message is:
Saw your post on Third Pillar. Great route -- did it last year. It is very impressive and intimidating, but there is not really any good reason not to go do it if you have stable weather.

I have at least four different topos, no two of which agree. The Supertopo seemed closest, with the following exceptions: (i) the second pitch seems easier than 5.10 if you can reach around left as soon as possible to the hidden holds behind the rib; (ii) the belay on top of the big flake at the top of the third pitch is indeed spectacular, but the quality of the gear available for the anchor is underwhelming; (iii) the move by the pin on the fourth pitch seems way easier than 5.10b, more like 5.8 (looks like a block just above the pin recently fell out, leaving a jug hold); (iv) just above that move, the “5.6 hands” section before the next belay is apparently out of sight to the left (so I've been told, anyway), and the logical line up to the ledge is about 5.8; and (v) the tips layback on the last pitch is more like 5.10c, but it's really just one move (the topos don't even show this as the crux, but I thought it was miles harder than anything else on the climb technically). Excellent climb, tiring day. "
Dingus Milktoast

climber
Aug 18, 2009 - 11:56am PT
rockermike I watched a cool vid, taken from off to the side up on the plateau, of Leversee soloing the route. It'll really make you squirm, now having done it, to see someone dance up the thing with no rope.

Different universe, eh?

Congrats on one of the prize climbs of the high Sierra - and I mean that literally.

TICK!

DMT
Daphne

Trad climber
Mill Valley, CA
Aug 18, 2009 - 12:27pm PT
Yay, rockermike. Thanks for taking the route on and for the pics. You are an inspiration to me.
adam d

climber
CA
Aug 18, 2009 - 12:55pm PT
Nefarious...perhaps you were remembering this one (from the base of OZ)

Taken from the base of the sweet corner, Tail not visible in this zoomed in p&s pic but it's no bobcat!

Anyone do this traverse variation on the 3rd pillar? right of the regular route I believe, a few pitches up. Traverse left from the belay and around a corner to a wide-ish 9 crack?



rockermike: agreed the thin crack on the last pitch was the crux for me as well. Might have had something to do with linking the last 2 pitches though with 2 10.2 ropes!
Impaler

Trad climber
Munich
Aug 18, 2009 - 01:04pm PT
rockermike

Mountain climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2009 - 12:56pm PT
another photo; above mentioned airy belay on flake with marginal gear for an anchor

Pate

Trad climber
The High And Lonely
Sep 18, 2009 - 09:10pm PT
Sierra bump
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
Idaho, also. Sorta, kinda mostly, Yeah.
Sep 18, 2009 - 11:25pm PT
Hey, RockerMike's not dead bump..........WooHoo!!
The Wedge

Boulder climber
Bishop, CA
Sep 18, 2009 - 11:33pm PT
man i am so going to solo that thing. I guided it 8 times one year. Never got tired of doing that rt. Never did it this year..yet.

May not die, just a lot of boulder problem cruxes with ankle breaking potiental.
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
Idaho, also. Sorta, kinda mostly, Yeah.
Sep 19, 2009 - 01:13am PT
Oh, you're Still SO goin' to die, man.
Forgot to add that.
See Ya!
The Chief

Trad climber
From the Land where Mogols still roam!
Sep 19, 2009 - 01:40am PT
Holy Batman/Robin trouser eaters!

It's just another route fur God's sake, that's all...just another frkn route in the Sierra.







I say get on the NB of Merriam for a true test of yur testi/ovary mettle. A true Clevenger/Harrington BC 5.10+ Classic!




Oh yeah, getting there is half the gig/challenge. No mules allowed either.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
Green Cove slabbage BITD!
May 9, 2010 - 09:38pm PT
Nice topo. You must be a very strong climber. Color me impressed.
thaDood

Mountain climber
PortaLedga OnzaKaleefa
Jul 11, 2011 - 01:50am PT
Yeah, nice topo The Chief. A Clevenger & Harrington classic for sure!

TPoD is one of my favorite memories, climbs, places from way back when. Go early, catch the sunrise, and hang for the sunset alpenglow!
thaDood

Mountain climber
PortaLedga OnzaKaleefa
Jul 11, 2011 - 03:35am PT
Why?

d00d^^^^deleted his question!

Why not?

It is one of the most beautiful views in all the Sierra. It catches the sunrise over the White Mts., and the alpenglow in the evening. I'm a photogragpher, so I'm interested in capturing those moments, but the experience itself is remembered for a life time. I would recomend leaving early anyway because it's a relitively long approach.

Everybody is in a hurry these days. So gripped and focused on just the climb/climbing, checking the tic list. If I were going to do it again, I would hike up sometime in the mid afternoon, and set up a tent, kick back and be up before sunrise...do the climb and then head down. It's just a unique spot with personal memories. It can be windy up there though(on the plateau).

And if you can time it to correspond with a full moon rising over the Whites, then it is really glorious.

edit: special memories in that two of my good friends, who were climbers, ashes were laid to rest in the Dana Couloir.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jul 11, 2011 - 08:31am PT
Gotta be the most talked about 4 pitch route in the Country. I thought you had a lot of options regarding multi-pitch climbs in California? Must have been mistaken.
msiddens

Trad climber
Mountain View
Jul 11, 2011 - 10:55am PT
Nice route, tons of fun and years since I did it. Repeat needed.

Regarding Merriam....5.10+???
Sonic

Trad climber
Central Coast, California
Jul 11, 2011 - 11:50am PT
Did the 3rd Pillar this last Saturday under beautiful conditions. The approach had some snow, but easily doable in approach shoes. It was my first 5.10 lead and I loved every minute of it! Ill throw a trip report up later but here’s two photos.

3rd Pillar Overview
3rd Pillar Overview
Credit: Sonic
This one is the overview of the pillar. Such great Rock!!!!!

Death Flake
Death Flake
Credit: Sonic
Here’s the death flake on pitch 4! It’s either 10a fingers to the left or a 5.8 Flaring/Ow to the right. We went right and it was interesting!

Personally, pitch 4 was easier than pitch 5.
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