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| Messages 1 - 33 of total 33 in this topic |
survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Awesome Jay!
I will be digging into this, in just a little while.
Ghost might be asking for 800x600 on those pics, to eliminate scrolling back and forth?
Can't wait to hear Keiths reaction to this one!!
It looks beautifully written by the way!
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Alpinista55
Mountain climber
Portland, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 6, 2009 - 01:35am PT
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OK, images resized, with links to full-resolution versions.
jk
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Finally, a real climbing thread and superbly done!
Fantastic! I hope you kept your toes.
Let's see how long this stays on the front page.
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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That is an adventure of the highest order. Thanks for sharing!
Bruce
ps - how are your toes?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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"I poked around with my axe, but there was nothing to offer the slightest hold. Then I felt my north wall hammer, still driven in to the head just below the lip, start to break out. My footholds began disintegrating under my weight and suddenly I was airborne as the snow collapsed beneath me. I felt myself contact the wall again and again as I pin wheeled down in the darkness into a vertical mile of air."
this is my worst nightmare
to lead up into it and have it actually happen...
well you have a stronger sense of fortitude than I good sir.
a well told tale that speaks of adventure writ large!
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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BAD ASS!
I'm pretty gripped just from the skiing part, and nights at -20 below.
Nicely written. Really nice. Crisp.
Last week a friend from Chattanooga had me nearly talked into a foray to the north side of Denali... on a soft desert evening, July on the edge of Mono Lake. This is the perfect wake-up call.
Nice!
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Damn, what a great read!
I heard this story in it's full glory from you guys so many years ago, and bits and pieces of it from Keith over the years, no matter where we were, but it's different here.
I've always enjoyed a good tale from a great book or magazine, but here I get to know that these men are my friends. And I am so fortunate to have had you for friends and partners all these years.
Thanks Jay.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Great story!
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Alpinista55
Mountain climber
Portland, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 6, 2009 - 11:12am PT
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Hey Bruce,
Yes, I still have all my toes. I spent a week in the hospital in Alaska, and another week in Portland. I was in a groin to toes cast for 4 months, with my blackened toes sticking out the end, covered with gauze. I had to soak my toes in iodine solution for two months twice a day.Eventually the toenails fell off, then the blackened dead skin. Underneath; nice pink toes. When the nails grew back, they were pretty ugly looking, but hey, no complaints.
The worst of it was on the plane ride coming back from Alaska. My leg had to be propped up and extended into the isle. A businessman whacked his briefcase into my toes on his way down the isle, and I just about passed out.
jk
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Amazing adventure. Thanks for taking the time to put it down on "paper" and share it with us. Bravo. The real deal. Full value.....whatever we wanna call it. Thanks!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Wow! Great adventure.
(and thanks for resizing the pictures)
D
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Jeremy, hanging with my mom?
Dude....you're in the rough......
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Yikes!
Great stuff, Jay, thanks!
-Brian in SLC
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Fresh
Trad climber
meffa, ma
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what an adventure, thanks for the read!
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Buggs
Trad climber
Eagle River, Alaska
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Thanks for the excellent read, Jay. We've never met but I've been climbing with Bruce and Keith for years. Heard lots of stories about you. I'm headed to New Mexico at the moment. Maybe we can plan a rendevous with the Cozmic Banditos somewhere in the desert this winter.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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All Right!!!!
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Yes Jay, you and Buggs would enjoy each other immensely.
Buggs can have you laughing til your face hurts, 'cept without the shrooms!!
Plus he's a big fan of the AK range.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Bump for quality, and to bump some nonsense down.
Hey Jay, I sent an email to an old friend of yours.....NC.
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Ferguson
climber
Tucson
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bump for an incredibly well written story about an fine alaska adventure. the ski in would be the trip of a lifetime for many, not to mention the fine ascent.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Very nice write up: as good as it gets!
It stands up quite well on its own merit and suffers not from lack of photographs.
Those words and maps suffice quite well by themselves and are worth a thousand pictures.
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mongrel
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Back up to pg.1. The two little fragments I especially liked were "...and told Keith it was still my lead" and the sound like pouring a drink over really cold ice cubes. Great read, really puts the reader right there. Thanks.
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Ezra
Social climber
WA, NC, Idaho Falls
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A+ Jay
Very well done, glad you made it out!
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Boise....
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WooHoo!!!!
Thanks to Jay Kerr for posting this phenomenal TR & thanks to Bruce for pointing it out to me.
Big honkin' Brass balls, there.
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wack-N-dangle
Gym climber
the ground up
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That looks like an incredible report. I didn't have time to read it. It looked kind of long. Not that I imagine it is boring, but I just have other stuff to do. Got any reports about any sport climbs?
edit: thanks for taking the time to post it
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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"Got any reports about any sport climbs?"
Ho Mahhn, now there is a typical supertopo response!!
Yeah Jay, please, fill us in on all those sport routes you've been doing....
Especially for someone who can't take the time to read about a REAL adventure!
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wack-N-dangle
Gym climber
the ground up
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Pardon me if the story is inaccurate. I remember reading something about a famous alpinist hanging on a sport route. A young kid came by and said that he had done it as a warm up. The alpinist commented that the kid should climb in Patagonia. He would like it.
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huh
climber
anchorage
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Since this was Alaska, did Keith change his name to Stevens by wedding our then senator, Uncle Ted?
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wack-N-dangle
Gym climber
the ground up
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Aug 10, 2009 - 09:02am PT
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bump- definitely worth the read. It sounds like you had some of the systems dialed, or at least knew enough to figure it out along the way. I admire your concern for your partner, and am happy you have your toes. A success in the style of Shackelton.
When you thought you could continue after taking the Percodan, do you think it was eternal optimism of the alpinist, or the meds doing the talking?
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Boymeetsrock
Trad climber
the east
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Aug 10, 2009 - 09:45am PT
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A most excellent adventure! Thanks for sharing!!
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Alpinista55
Mountain climber
Portland, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 10, 2009 - 11:42am PT
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Wack --
Although I am an eternal optimist... it was definitely the drugs.
jk
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Sep 23, 2011 - 11:57pm PT
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where's the original content?
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