What Largo said...

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Fingerlocks

Trad climber
where the climbin's good
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 23, 2005 - 01:47pm PT
Largo recently mentioned that he thought the Dihardral at Slab Happy Pinnacle was one of the best 5.10s in the Valley. Coming from a guy that has climbed a few of them, that’s some praise. I did a search through the old threads and found that he has been saying that here for years, but that nobody else has commented.

So is Largo the only one who remembers doing this obscure gem? Anybody been up there more recently, and what did you think? Worth the trudge up there?

And a related question. Reid implies that Never Say Dog is a good one. But I suppose it fair to assume that the bolts on the face pitch are the usual moldering mank?
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Aug 23, 2005 - 01:53pm PT
The Dihardral is a fine route but also a historical one, first free climbed by Frank Sachar in (I believe) 1965. So for a 40-year old free route, I believe folks will be pleasantly surprised. And it's not just one pitch. The Left Side (5.11b) is also worth doing, likewise the Center route, originally rated A5. It amazes me that no one seems ever to climb these routes.

JL
Fingerlocks

Trad climber
where the climbin's good
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 23, 2005 - 02:13pm PT
A lot of us seem to get in a rut and do the same climbs over and over or only branch out as far as what other people are climbing. To break out of this, I'm always looking for something I hadn't thought of before.

About the Center Route: It looks like it also has a bolted section. These are probably old as well?
WBraun

climber
Aug 23, 2005 - 02:40pm PT
Left side of slab happy one of my favorites. I've done all the routes on slab happy several times.

There's a Johnny Woodward route just to the right of the right side of Slab Happy that goes all the way to the top. It's a super great climb. One of the best routes I've done up there. Highly recomended!
mark miller

Social climber
Reno
Aug 23, 2005 - 11:23pm PT
I've wanted to head up to Slab happy area for over 10 years and all my patners laugh. How is the approach?
Fingerlocks

Trad climber
where the climbin's good
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 24, 2005 - 11:40am PT
WB,

The Reid book shows Woodward doing both Never Say Dog and The Big Juan. Which of the two were you thinking of?
WBraun

climber
Aug 24, 2005 - 11:55am PT
Damn, I didn't even know the name of the route or the rating when me and Shultz did it. But it's the route with some wicked hard face moves on the first pitch. The second pitch goes up some left leaning flake that Shultz liebacked and I straight in jammed.

I don't have a guide book.....
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Aug 24, 2005 - 12:27pm PT
Geeze Werner, no guidebook? Then how do you know where you are?

Big Juan, that's the one (Never Say Dog goes off the top of Slab Happy). I looked at that first pitch once, and yeah, looks like hard face. Good bolts though.

Does anybody have any beta for Never Say Dog? I'm wondering about the runs up there. You know, Woodward 'n all.

The route to the right of all this, Golden Years, is beautiful, but has some hard stuff too. Ivo says he broke the foothold on the crux pitch, so you either pull through on one bolt or send at .13 somethin'. Still, it's amazing rock.

Cheerio,
:- k

Fingerlocks

Trad climber
where the climbin's good
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 24, 2005 - 01:04pm PT
Thanks Werner

That sounds like The Big Juan.


Well, when it gets cool this fall, I think I'll head up there. I don't mind longer approaches if there is worthy climbing to be had.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Aug 24, 2005 - 03:11pm PT
I was up there at Slab Happy Pinnacle in March 2004. We tried the Dihardral and Slab Happy Center, and were denied on both. (Your mileage may vary; I'm not a very strong free climber). The first 3 bolts on Slab Happy Center are good. I actually replaced the 3rd one myself before bailing from it. It was a 1/4" x 1" Meyers original on his free variation (the original route goes to the right free and then eventually on aid - there are nice photos of this in the 1964 Roper guide). The bolts above the 3rd were 1/4" in 3/2004. The rappel anchors were replaced by ASCA/Tom McMillan. Here's my trip report:

http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/rep/043ylin2.txt

The other routes which people asked about (Never Say Dog, The Big Juan, Golden Years [Kelly's route]) are modern routes where you can expect 3/8" bolts. Never Say Dog in particular was established by Woodward on lead with a Bosch (when they were still legal), as I recall. If you are interested in the modern routes, you should check out Burden of Dreams as well! I have toproped the lower parts of it a few times while coming down from the Moratorium, but I don't have the skills to lead it.

The approach is not too scary, with one possible 4th class section which we soloed and a little exposed scrambling above that. Probably the main trick is finding the right time to go up there, when it's not too hot (overcast would help) and when Horsetail Falls is not running too strongly (the spray drops down there occasionally).

Have fun!

P.S. It would be nice if there was a way to change the title of the thread - this one in particular should be something like "Slab Happy Pinnacle".
Fingerlocks

Trad climber
where the climbin's good
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 24, 2005 - 03:51pm PT
Thanks, Clint, for the trip report and the account of the bolts. Yeah, I sould have put "Slab Happy" in the title. Don't know if I can do anything about it now, though.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Aug 24, 2005 - 07:00pm PT
we were sacher groupies, and made a point of doing every route he fa'd or ffa'd. we did dihardral in '84 or '85, and i still remember how robbin's write-up on the route was running through my head on the approach "...blind reaches around corners....blind reaches around corners...." like a broken record in my brain. gotta agree, sensational route with enormous history and one of the most satisfying 5.10 outings i've done in the valley.
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Aug 24, 2005 - 10:22pm PT
Another couple stellar routes with enormous early history include the Slack, Left Side, and Hourglass, Right Side. I doubt they see a dozen ascents a decade.

JL
pud

climber
Sportbikeville
Aug 24, 2005 - 10:27pm PT
Ok,
let's go!
Fingerlocks

Trad climber
where the climbin's good
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 25, 2005 - 11:34am PT
Yes, the Ribbon Creek area is another spot I'm thinking of going to this fall. Looks like there are several climbs there that would be good to check out. I'll have a look at the Hourglass--got to keep up on those wide cracks.

Don't know much about it, but from the topo at least, it looks like Ribbon Candy is one to do.

You think the Slack rarely gets climbed? It is certainly easier to get there than to the Hourglass.
deuce4

Big Wall climber
the Southwest
Aug 25, 2005 - 12:43pm PT
Did that hourglass route with Werner once. Gnarly. I think we did the left side with the undercling.
WBraun

climber
Aug 25, 2005 - 12:49pm PT
Yep, John, the left side, good one ...eh!
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Aug 25, 2005 - 01:54pm PT
"You think the Slack rarely gets climbed? It is certainly easier to get there than to the Hourglass."

That's the LEFT SIDE of the Slack, and yes, I think it's rarely if ever climbed. That's somewhat surprizing considering that in the old days you couldn't protect it but now, with big cams, you shuld be fine.

JL
Fingerlocks

Trad climber
where the climbin's good
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 25, 2005 - 05:59pm PT
Yep, I knew you were talking the left side. But with all the people walking up and down there, surely a few climb it.

Anyway, I'll let you know as soon as I've done it.
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Aug 25, 2005 - 09:34pm PT
Doesn't the Slack Left have all those crazy trees blocking the
way?

Say Largo, what is the history of this one, I don't believe I've heard it.

:- k

PS. I think Ribbon Candy is one with a significant trouser warmer, no?
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