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Messages 1 - 10 of total 10 in this topic |
Iron Mtn.
Trad climber
Corona, Ca.
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 29, 2009 - 01:23am PT
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The Secor book isn't much help, any info?
How about Mount Muir?
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powderdan
Social climber
mammoth lakes
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Jul 30, 2009 - 03:56pm PT
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its super loose and dangerous and you will get struck by lightning if you climb it.
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Iron Mtn.
Trad climber
Corona, Ca.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2009 - 08:13pm PT
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I guess there's no love for the Patagonia of the Sierras?
Is it worse than Mount Morrison?
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Brian
climber
Cali
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Jul 31, 2009 - 08:18pm PT
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^ No. I don't think so. I've gone up Day and, while I've never tried Morrison, my partner did and it sounds like it's pretty bad. Too bad there is not enough precipitation (or not the right kind?) to ice that sucker up and freeze it together properly.
Brian
PS--Sorry, I don't have a topo for Day...
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John Vawter
Social climber
San Diego
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Jul 31, 2009 - 08:51pm PT
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I did it in 1977 with Ed Connor. It is a bit of a choss pile, but there are some cool pitches. The description of what we did in The Fourteeneers and Secor are both wrong. We started on the left side, not the right, and went up the gully a pitch or two until we found a way to gain the face. The face is pretty clean and goes for a pitch or two following shallow cracks up and right to easier climbing where there is a lot of loose rock.
Work your way up and right to some ledges below a spectacular, steep, fluted arete, with a great view of Keeler. We had lunch there. The arete is steep but easy at first, but harder climbing higher forced us off to the left again. We stayed as close to the right side as we could for a few more pitches.
Near the top the rock steepens into a fluted wall. I recall that though steep, there were a lot of choices and it all took pro pretty well. We had hexes and stoppers, no cams. This was the crux, .9 - .10a. We climbed up and right, not left as it shown in the Fourteeners, and belayed on a ledge below a huge chockstone, with a .9 move to get over. That was the key to the summit.
We back at camp well before dark, and not too worked, but we were in shape, having been climbing pretty steadily for about six weeks. We started Keeler the next day, and 3rd classed the East Face of Whitney the day before.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 31, 2009 - 09:01pm PT
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Yer gonna die!
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Iron Mtn.
Trad climber
Corona, Ca.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2009 - 09:32pm PT
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No, not really. I have no plans to climb Day Needle. Looking more and more at Lone Pine Peak next year. You just never hear about ascents of Day Needle or Mount Muir, so I thought they might be diamonds in the rough.
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10b4me
Gym climber
Happy Boulders
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Bill,
I know someone that did the east face of Muir. he got off route, and did not enjoy it.
if you stay on route, it's mostly fourth class
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Impaler
Trad climber
Munich
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I climbed the east butt of Muir in 2007 and would not recommend it to anyone. Quite unpleasant with the amount of looseness there. I think the farther south you get from Mt. Russell, the worse the rock gets. Go climb something on Russell. Lots of good routes there.
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clustiere
Trad climber
berkeley ca
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I sent you my email address, reply and I can send to the topo of Day Needle. I was looking at it a few years ago while climbing Keeler, looked pretty sweet, and likely better than the loose choss hike on Muir.
Ryan
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Messages 1 - 10 of total 10 in this topic |
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