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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 27, 2009 - 06:29pm PT
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I was up at Tahquitz last Sat and found the rap bolts and chains missing from the top of the West Face Bulge. Is there a reason this was removed? Was it relocated and I didn't see it? Would anyone protest if it were replaced? Am I completely on crack and just missed it somehow?
Curious,
Josh
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WBraun
climber
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Jul 27, 2009 - 06:46pm PT
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Next time you come to a bridge then swim Cragman.
Swallow your words ......
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WBraun
climber
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Jul 27, 2009 - 06:55pm PT
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That's true too .....
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apogee
climber
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Jul 27, 2009 - 06:59pm PT
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Josh, I would suggest checking with Bob Gaines before doing any replacement- he's pretty dialed on the status of bolts at Tahquitz. Check out the Vertical Adventures website for contact info.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jul 27, 2009 - 07:21pm PT
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I am not the chpper, but I will say that I was kind of bummed when those bolts appeared. I am glad if someone plucked 'em.
Just downclimb The Trough, it's probably faster anyway...
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 27, 2009 - 07:59pm PT
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Fattrad, thanks for showing your colors!
I've used those bolts in the past, and think they're quite nice at facilitating linkups on the West Face Bulge. Especially since many of the routes over there start part way up the rock. Many of the routes on that face already have bolted rappel stations, so that rappel always kinda made sense to me. My preferred way of getting down off Tahquitz is actually to down climb The Trough, but I can rarely find partners that are OK with doing that (it's been years). Anyways, that's all beside the point. I thought I would at least try to start a dialogue since I would bet that someone is acting unilaterally up there and shaping the crag to be how they want it to be. Discussion is typically better than chopping in secret... What might be next?
Josh
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Mary J. Pickford
climber
South Park
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Jul 27, 2009 - 08:06pm PT
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We rappelled the route after climbing it. Turned out there was a party below and we really got in their way. Felt really bad about it and decided the rappel route is lame.
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gonzo chemist
climber
the Orange Curtain
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Jul 27, 2009 - 08:49pm PT
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Actually, I've been wondering about a couple of interesting bolt
issues on Tahquitz. I've wanted to post up these questions
a while ago, and I guess this is as good a thread as any. Since many of you on here have spent some good time climbing there, maybe you could help me out.
1) What's the story with the bolt about 2/3 of the way up the first pitch of The Vampire? I'm assuming it was put in to replace an old pin? But the crack next to it could probably take small nuts or cams (especially with today's advancements in small cams----FULL DISCLOSURE: I clipped it, both times I was up there; maybe next time I'll take a hard-line stance). That brings up another question altogether, is it OK to pull out old pins and plug in a bolt nearby? That just seems wrong to me.....but hey I'm a "newB," so what do I know?
I'm guessing you'd want to consult the First Ascensionists...
2) Also what's the story with the rap anchors atop The Open Book?
Seems kind of unnecessary; especially since you top out near the friction descent. I'm guessing R.R. and Don Wilson didn't
need any convenience rap anchors in 1952.
3) I was climbing El Camino Real a few weeks ago and noticed
a 2-bolt anchor between the top of the second pitch of Jensen's Jaunt and the anchors on El Camino. It was in the vicinity of the top of maybe Dos Equis, but the guidebook makes no mention of them and says that the Dos Equis ends at the top of ECR. Thoughts?
4) While I was poking around up on El Camino/Pigs in Bondage, I took a gander at The Hangover (5.12c/d, FFA, 1978: JL, Rick Accomazzo, Rob Muir, M. Lechlinksi). Guidebook says one bolt and one pin. But I spotted 3 new bolts in place of the old pin and old bolt. Thoughts?
Anyway, Tahquitz was my first regular climbing climbing locale after moving to California a few years ago. I've always been inspired by the traditional ethic employed in the first ascents there. So I tend to muse about these things. For all you grizzled tradsters who know and love Tahquitz, I have NO intention of chopping bolts, or placing bolts or pins or engaging in any of those shenanegins up there. I like the climbs just the way they are....
And by the way, for anybody who hasn't done the direct finish to The Vampire, the end of that second pitch is kind of a pants-filler (at least it was for me!). Underclinging/liebacking that flake as it gets thinner and thinner (distressingly thin), until a committing move right before the anchors, really keeps your attention. I highly recommend it!
Sorry for any thread drift......
Nick
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Chinchen
climber
Flagstaff?
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Jul 27, 2009 - 08:54pm PT
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Jesus Christ.
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 27, 2009 - 09:36pm PT
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The last time I went up The Vampire, I also thought that lead bolt could go. I plugged a #1 or #2 Metolius cam in the crack immediately to the left of it. I figure that hopefully that bolt will never be replaced and it will fade into obscurity. In my opinion, there's no point in chopping it at the moment, the hole is already there.
Josh
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Iron Mtn.
Trad climber
Corona, Ca.
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Jul 27, 2009 - 10:33pm PT
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I've always been inspired by the traditional ethic employed in the first ascents at Tahquitz. I like the climbs just the way they are...."
Ditto, I also love the history behind the crag and the visionaries behind it's development(Robbins, Wilts, Mendenhall, Long, Gaines, Hensel, Couch, Higgins, Vogel, Kamps, Sorensen, etc.) The fact that I get to follow their footsteps in their vision of the first ascents is very gratifying to say the least. It's sad that ethics have fallen to the wayside, why slay the dragon instead of the dragon slaying you?
Truth be told, I have seen Tahquitz mess with many a mind and i'm sure she will seek her revenge on those who don't approach her with the proper respect......
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BeeHay
Trad climber
San Diego CA
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Jul 28, 2009 - 12:59am PT
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I gotta go with Cragman. Climb up, walk down, WTF? It's been done for what, 40,50,60 years?!
Another symptom of the Pussification of America!
BTW, "Get off my lawn, punks".
Brad
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
nowhere, I'm headed for certain doom
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Jul 28, 2009 - 01:08am PT
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Holes can be filled. Minumum fuss.
Epoxy putty & rock dust.
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WBraun
climber
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Jul 28, 2009 - 01:09am PT
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BeeHay
Does that mean you're gonna swim the river too .....
:)
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jul 28, 2009 - 01:19am PT
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Does that mean you're gonna swim the river too .....
swimming can be more gratifying and refreshing than rapping, or walking across a bridge.
just sayin'!
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Brian
climber
Cali
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Jul 28, 2009 - 01:39am PT
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Medusa,
What's the beta for Heathen? The most recent guide I have is Bob's 1998 supplement, which includes the Open Book/Green Arch rap but makes no mention of a route called Heathen. Maybe the rap was installed first and the route later? Where does the route go? If it's recommended I'd like to give it a go. Thanks.
Brian
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Jul 28, 2009 - 03:02am PT
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swimming can be more gratifying and refreshing than rapping, or walking across a bridge
Even more satisfying, perhaps, is to attempt a slackline, and then tumble into the river while your friends fall down laughing. Very humbling, at least in the dream I had.
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 28, 2009 - 09:56am PT
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Brian,
The Heathen starts to the left of The Chauvenist. It's bolted. You might need a little gear to get to the first bolt, sharing a corner start with The Chauvenist. From there it trends up and left, finally traversing left when the angle lessens. 2nd pitch goes right and up through a steeper featured face. I believe this pitch is short, but hard. Last pitch is the bolted slab above you with sustained friction and not as many edges as the previous pitches. Awesome route. Woulda had the onsight but a hold broke. Needs some traffic! :)
Josh
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Grant Meisenholder
Trad climber
CA
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Jul 28, 2009 - 12:59pm PT
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I'm just waiting for them to finish the tramway from PS to the top of the rock & down to Idyllwild. Won't need any more damned "adventure passes"!
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Jul 28, 2009 - 02:48pm PT
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I believe the convenience rap next to the Open Book predates The Heathen by a number of years.
We've arrived at that corner of the rock several times as parties were preparing to rap and ALWAYS got down before them just walking off.
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