One fo these Days vs. Toomstone Terror

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Messages 41 - 60 of total 71 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City
Aug 17, 2009 - 07:16am PT
Nice work on that climb chim. Did it the same time I did ativan grin (On TR) the two crack at the top are fun as hell. Thought it went mid to low 11 for sure. Would love to come out but Im working 14 out of 16 days doing 12 hour shifts so Im outa the game for a bit. Thanks for all the cleaning on my ol' routes. Keep on plugging along. I will upload all the photos I have and let you decide which ones you want to use then I can go back and clean them up for the guide. Keep in touch.
Shawn
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2009 - 08:36am PT
Isw anyone going up to Cloudburst Canyon on Tuesday? We're heading out aroiund 9 a.m., We have three people going, and could use a fourth person to increase our efficiency. Give a shout.

Chim-Chim
sasha Cohen

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe CA
Aug 24, 2009 - 02:08pm PT
chim-chim you are the best!! Thanks for all your hard work. Hope to climb with you soon.
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 25, 2009 - 09:13am PT
Ha Sasha,ha I was thinking about climbing at Eagle Lake Cliff this week... and get on some "real quality" rock climbs. I'm sick of climbing all the chossy rock at the Woodfords, and I want to climb some good granite for a change. Maybe you should fly up from hollywood and we'll get out there. I hear that Eagle Creek is Waaay better than the Woodfords... we'll see.

Chow Chim
sasha Cohen

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe CA
Aug 26, 2009 - 03:57pm PT
Hi chim It's Sasha I'd much rather go climb at Woodford's canyon. I'll be flying in tonight so let's go climb tomorrow!!
Chow
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Aug 27, 2009 - 08:11am PT
One Of These Days... Wins again!

I took a friend to Woodfords yesterday who had also climbed Tombstone with me. He sent OOTD in amazing stellar fashion, gave it five stars, and said it was better.
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 28, 2009 - 08:10am PT
Looks like One of these Days is crushing toomstone... four votes for One of these days zero for Toomstone terror... come out and see if you agree. Even though OOTD has the public's endorsement, there are even better climbs ouit there... that haven't even been touched. So drive on by Eldorado County and come out and see for yourself. Yee-haw Chim
sasha Cohen

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe CA
Aug 28, 2009 - 02:04pm PT
Hey Chim,
Thanks for the great day in Cloudburst Canyon. Can't wait to climb with you again.
Sasha
jstan

climber
Aug 28, 2009 - 02:06pm PT
My hearing must be going.

I swear I can hear a drum going in the background.
nutjob

climber
Berkeley, CA
Sep 28, 2009 - 10:35am PT
I was in the neighborhood this weekend (well, east of Sacramento on Saturday night), and hooked up with Footloose and Msiddens for the Woodfords Tour.

Saturday night I slept under a gorgeous star-filled sky about a mile before echo summit, staring at the milky way, lulled by the rush of the river, and reeling in the post-gig high after a night of playing classic rock cover tunes at a pool-party in Cameron Park. We brought down the house with a reggae-version of the Gilligan's Island theme.

Sunday morning, after a little snafu meeting up at "the deli" in Woodfords, we did the five-minute drive and short and scenic approach hike (which I did in flip-flops and trader-joes shopping bag since I wasn't really prepared for climbing that weekend, but I did have my shoes & harness in the car).

Well, we only did one climb for the day because I had to git back to the bay early, but the climb was a good one! I hopped onto One of These Days, figuring the start would warm me up before I got to the crux. Well, there was no definite crux for me, but the whole pitch was outstanding and required careful milking of every possible rest. It requires a good variety of technique: fingerlocks, hands, maybe a fist or two, a chimney-style rest, so balancy no-hands rests, a sneeky knee-bar no-hands rest, and a cool traverse that can be powered through on hands or groveling wide/chimney style like I did. There was no place where I was forced to make a desperate hard move... just a continuous series of challenging but reasonable and fun moves.

That one pitch was enough to make me feel content for the day! I guess I have to try out Tombstone Terror now to make a proper comparison. If I lived close to Woodfords, I'd visit it all the time. But since Yosemite is the same time for me, well... you know. I'm still addicted to bigness. Bigness aside, I forgot how beautiful the Tahoe area is.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Sep 28, 2009 - 01:38pm PT
Ha! how about a few pics to augment the text...

Go Nutjob:



How cool is climbing!



In the overhang. Still going. Is this the making of an onsight flash?



A closeup of the fine finish. Whatever it takes...


Proud Send, Nutjob!
msiddens

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Sep 28, 2009 - 03:38pm PT
HA, good fun guys
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 29, 2009 - 08:31am PT
Nice lead nutjob I'm glad footloose took you on the tour. We,ve beenbuzy putting up some new climbs... but I wnat to get back on OTD before the snow flies. I'm glad you had fun up there. Chim
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Apr 19, 2010 - 05:36pm PT
I'll bump this for my own inspiration.
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2013 - 04:35pm PT
Bump for the fest! It's on biotches.
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
May 17, 2013 - 08:13pm PT
WoooHoooo!

Do I have good taste in shirts or what?

One of these days I have to get back to that area. When the kids get a little bigger I might take them camping and climbing there.

Footloose, Msiddens, it was a fun day with you guys, hope you're doing well.
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
May 17, 2013 - 11:42pm PT
What's the bolted thing to the left. Thought that thing was hard. Barely squeeked out the onsight.
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2013 - 07:42am PT
Chad, I don't know the name... was bolted by a man named Paul that lived in Woodfords for a while. I don't like the cold shut anchor, has it been replaced? What do you think 5.12b? Bicepy!
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
May 19, 2013 - 11:02pm PT
It's been a year or two but I think it still had shuts. .12b sounds about right. Someone told me it was like .11a/b but I think they were FOS! There's definitely a couple good moves and one stopper section, but just about every move in between is solid .11, and it's loooooong...
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
May 20, 2013 - 05:24am PT
You finally got out there for some of the more classic stuff, Sal? Is your opinion of Woodfords improved?
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