One fo these Days vs. Toomstone Terror

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 71 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 28, 2009 - 11:23am PT
Heh Footloose we're heading up on Thursday to High Energy Wall, give a shout and maybe we could meet up. I was going to go out today.. too tired from yesterdays activities. It got kinda warm, the shade was good in the A.M., the afternoon was warm on the east-facing shady walls, until the downwinds picked up around 3 O'Clock, then conditions were perfect. No one in sight as usual... we were the only people climbing in the entire canyon... again. It getting sooo crowded, that I can see why people are concerned about all the activity.

Chim-Chim
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2009 - 11:36am PT
I went up and climbed Toomstone. Did there used to be a pin at the start? I haven't climbed at the Leap in a while, maybe my memory is getting bad. I also don't remember Toomstone as being so short, what is is seventy feet or something. One of these Days is longer, more sustained, and only has a fifteen minute approach. On of These Days has my vote, and it even has as much chalk on it as Toomstone. So if you want to get on it. just follow the well chalked path to the top... oh yeah bring a seventy meter rope.

Chim- Chim
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Aug 10, 2009 - 11:49pm PT
I'm headin up tomorrow, Tuesday-- so I can weigh in. Anyone else? Chim?
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 11, 2009 - 12:01pm PT
Heh Footloose, we went out there yesterday(Monday). A couple of friends came up from the bay area. They got on One of these days... they were ecstatic. I didn't ask Tad if he had climbed Toomstone before... but he felt One of These Days was a five star route. We did a new filthy, barely mentionable f,a. to the right of Little Miss Manners... a right-facing corner to the communal anchor of L.M.M.'s. Across the creek I enstalled an anchor on a previous project(four yearsago we started it but got shut down). Went for the lead... 3o feet from the anchor I got stymied by bad protection. I plan on placing one or more protction bolts near the top of this fine 130foot 5.11 crack climb Hope you had a fun time up there today. Next time you head up you should jump on D-Cup... follow the creek up and right past OOTD wall. Just past a large pine tree is a staging area below a slabby angling crack leading to a finger-crack bulge crux. 110feet 5.10c There's a 5.8 wide crack to the right... a good warm-up.

Chim_Chim
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Aug 11, 2009 - 01:37pm PT
Chim- If it's the same Tad that I know, he told me years ago that toomstone was one of the best .10 cracks at the leap. He was right, now you got me thinking about all of that untouched tahoe rock!

You guys are doing it right out there!

Tell TS I said howdy.

Mucci
Bertrand

Trad climber
SF
Aug 11, 2009 - 02:41pm PT
Different Tad, Mooch. This one is scolding me for not getting on Tombstone the day before OOTD when waiting in line for Travelers. We could have made a VERY current comparison of the two climbs!

We settled for Hospital Corner, and between those two gems, I'd have to give the nod to OOTD.
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 12, 2009 - 12:19pm PT
Heh Footloose, did you make it up there yesterday? We're heading up early Thursday a.m., come on up if you can... got some work to do... some anchor placements and cleaning yee-haw. But we usually do the messy stuff in the afternoon, post "actual" climbing, before the real suffering begins... there's lots to do. A wall with at least six lines awaits some much needed attention. Give me a shout if you're interested.

Chim-Chim
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City
Aug 12, 2009 - 12:33pm PT
Chim
I may be able to come out for a while if I get my burningman sh#t done today. Let me know
Shawn
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 12, 2009 - 12:40pm PT
Shaun. I'll call youin thhe a.m. to see if you're available, is your plan for Burning Man as sick as last year?

Chim-Chim
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City
Aug 12, 2009 - 12:56pm PT
GIve me a shout. Always a little crazier than the year before.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Aug 12, 2009 - 02:11pm PT
Chim,

Headin up Thurs morn, too!

See ya at One of These Days?
tadhunt

Trad climber
Sunnyvale, CA
Aug 13, 2009 - 01:54am PT

Funny, I've probably only ever met one or two other Tads in my life. Not a very common name. But, it seems that Mucci and I are only 1 degree of separation apart -- I was at the base of Tombstone Terror on Sunday ... with his friend Jess.

We looked at TT and considered climbing it, but we didn't have a guidebook with us and weren't sure if it had an anchor, or if it topped out. We were scoping out ways to skip around a party just starting Traveler Buttress. But in the end, we dithered around long enough that P1 finally opened up, so we just went up the regular way. (Then we ran into a cluster on the big ledge before P2, but that's another story). If I had known then what it was, I definitely would have given it a go.

I climbed One of These Days on Monday (TR here: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=928807), and indeed it was an awesome climb. I loved the whole thing -- from the fingers start, through the cruise up to the roof, to the steep jamming above, and even the hand traverse into the chimney (knee-bar, yeah!) before clipping the chains. Yee-Ha!

Next time I'm at Lover's Leap, I'll definitely get on Tombstone for comparison.

-Tad
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Aug 13, 2009 - 01:58am PT
Ah, your in good company with Jess!

Great partner, great climber, and he doesn't mind the big pig on the approach!

I am checking out the "Woods" real soon, those guys got somethin good going on there!

Cheers,

Mucci
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 14, 2009 - 12:06pm PT
Heh Footloose, sorry we missed you yesterday...The weather was perfect. No one there nas usual. We got completely filthy yesterday cleaning Shaun's routes, the right hand climb had become overgrown... it looks like a real climb now. I placed a protection bolt on the project, and cleaned the cracks lower down...it may need one more bolt down low, I've climbed through some dubious sections on earlier attempts and it didn't seem so bad, but if you fell at a particular spot you could definately break your legs... so I may place a bolt to prevent a injury in the future. Any way OOtd didn't get an ascent yesterday so the competition is still on, awaiting a solid concensus... but so far it seems like like One of These Days has recieved more votes.

Chim-Chim
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Aug 14, 2009 - 05:42pm PT
My vote: One Of These Days. Wow!!
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Aug 14, 2009 - 08:31pm PT
I was just thinking, maybe I'm not qualified to vote.

Yep, I wasn't able to send it, I had to yard my way through. Or, how about this: You can vote-- but it's a vote with an asterisk till you send it.

Gotta know, how do you guys turn the roof? Do you bear hug the thing? Anyone out there hittin OOTD tomorrow, Sat, or Sun? Love to rip beta from you! What about you Chim?

What's OOTD's history? Anyone know who out there flashed it? It's not bragging if asked. I'm asking. LOve to know.

Was this Dan's putup? He and I went to the same county schools, just 15 minutes down the road. Ah, to be 20 again!

I think my grade, when it's all said and done, is going to be 5.10b/c (3s)... "s" meaning sustained...

A six pack is now in my trunk to the first person I witness send it on lead. Can hardly wait!

EDIT: Petch- What was your first experience on this? love to know, and the year, give me some details please.

I live just outside Genoa, NV, 20 min away, and never knew it was there in all THAT quality. At once, AUGHH and WOW! A fine project, indeed, for us 5.10a climbers...



Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 15, 2009 - 11:25am PT
Heh Footloose, I'm glad that you climbed One of These Days, it's a great climb isn't it? I turn the roof from a solid hand jam right-hand crack, and high-step onto a sloping foot-hold below the left-hand crack, Some times I use the spike to establish myself above the roof, or I just sorta push myself with my right palm, over to the left to seccure a thin-hand jam. Either way, I slam in a piece right away to calm myself before launching in the sustained head wall cracks above. Could this be one of the best 5.10 crack pitch in the state? I can't think of too many that can compare. It's one of those climbs that you wish were your own. More amazing though is the fact that there are probabally many, many more climbs of this quality that have never been seen, yet alone climbed. I know form scratching out climbs here that most of the climbs fall in the mid 5.10 range(mortal climbers can rejoice) and there are more climbs to establish than I can handle... any takers?
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City
Aug 15, 2009 - 11:41am PT
Chim
Were you thinking of putting a bolt on ativan grin?
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Aug 15, 2009 - 01:11pm PT
Hey Guys,

Curious about those two anchor bolts on OOTD. Are they older bolts and new hangers?
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 16, 2009 - 11:54am PT
Heh Shaun, I placed some anchor bolts on the project to the left of Atvian Grin. Mark B. and I attempted the climb about five years ago, but backed off. There is so much rock to develope that we didn't go back... until recently. I re-led to our high-point, through some munge and some loose-ness but got shut down again, so I placed a bolt about thirty feet from the top, about 100 feet off the deck. I may place a bolt lower down to "sanitize" it for future ascents or not, I haven't decided yet. We gave your climbs a "hair cut" and a good "thrice over" with a wire brush. Both climbs protect adequately well... I excavated some excellent wire placements that were previously buried in the dirt-filled cracks... so I don't think any bolts are necessary. We're going up on Tuesday to work on some other climbs... you should come up. Give us a shout. Footloose I don't know anything abouit the anchor bolts on ootd but the sure come in handy if you own a seventy meter rope. Yee-haw
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