One fo these Days vs. Toomstone Terror

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Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 23, 2009 - 05:47pm PT
I was kinda wunderin' which climb is better, One of these Days at Woodfords Canyon or Toomstone Terror at Lovers Leap? They're both 5.10c. I've climbed both, a dozen times or more and I think One of These Days is way better. What do you think?
WhyCantGerbalsDrive

climber
Lee Vining, CA
Jul 23, 2009 - 08:37pm PT
do you have a job chim chim?
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
way, WAY out there....(OMG)
Jul 23, 2009 - 08:43pm PT
Now, what kinda climber question is that?
The man asked a legit question.
I have no answers, but I'm outa range.
Not a gerbil fan, is all.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Jul 23, 2009 - 09:19pm PT
Hi Chim,

Saw your other post, too. Hey, kudos to you for your efforts in Woodfords and for keeping us in the loop and inspired. Dig those pictures, too.

When will you be up there / down there again? Tomorrow, Friday? (Maybe I might steal away for a couple of hours.) Otherwise, I'm down south in the High Sierras this weekend, but next week I'll do my best to finish off this intriguing comparison study we've formulated! and let you know.

Happy climbing!

Edit: "way better" ??? we'll see! :)
Petch

Gym climber
Lover's Leap
Jul 23, 2009 - 10:17pm PT
I give it to One of these days. Twice as long and way more sustained.

But then there is Absoulutely Billie;)
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Jul 24, 2009 - 07:25am PT
Tombstone Terror, 5.10c
For reference, guys...



Let the competition begin! :)

By the way, personally I'll be comparing One of these Days to Tombstone's Variation B: which is up the yellow lichen on the arete...
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2009 - 07:54am PT
Footloose, we're heading up on Monday. Some people from Yosemite are coming into town, and want to see if all the "hype" is for real. I'm confident that the cracks will more than meet their approval. Hope to see you up there.

I haven't climbed the 5.10c Billie route. I hope to get out there and climb some of those routes. Heh Gerbel Boy do you know Richard Gere? I bet he'd let you drive.
caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
Jul 24, 2009 - 08:21am PT
I was wondering about that variation B on the Terror, just noticed it last week! Good stuff?
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2009 - 08:25am PT
Is that variation a top-rope variation or can it be led? I haven't been ton the Leap in years, did someone squeeze in a bolted line between Toomstone Terror and Paul's route to the right?
caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
Jul 24, 2009 - 08:50am PT
No, not a squeeze, no bolts on it.

In the photo above, you can see the underclingy crack moving right through the yellow lichen above, putting you into the finish of Boothill. It looked doable and leadable, but haven't given it a run yet. Boot Terror? Tombstone Hill? Looks like fun.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Jul 24, 2009 - 03:22pm PT
One Of These Days, 5.10c
For comparison:



It's got yellow lichen, too. :)

Caughtinside- yes, Var. B. on Tombstone: good stuff, it protects well, easy to think of as a hybrid. I like those nicknames...

Chim- yea, you can lead it just like Caughtinside said. I'll try OOTD next week.

BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City
Jul 24, 2009 - 10:29pm PT
Another view of "One of These Days"
Doesn't look 165 ft but.......

Chim have fun on Monday. Wish I could go but gotta work sometime this month.
Shawn
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 25, 2009 - 08:03am PT
The Ron Anderson guide describes One of These Days as being 165 ft., probably due to the fact that most ropes used during that time were 50 meters(165 feet) the exageration in length as Jack Nickalson put it so well in A Few Good Men "probably saved lives". The actual length is around 120ft. With a 70 meter rope it is possible to lower off to the left(uphill side) to the ground. A 5.12a to the left can be set up for t.r. with some directionals on the many bolts that were installed by a guy named Paul who moved out of the area several years ago. The climb is excellent, however the independent anchor down and to the left of the chain anchor of One of These Days is sketchy. It looks like it belongs in Owens River Gorge circa 1995 before Marty beefed up the anchors with a third bolt. The anchor in question when weighted, levers the open-shut, open, a dangerous situation. So for now be aware that the positioning of the anchor as well as the nature of the anchor itself is no entirely sound. As soon as I get some spare bolts I plan on fixing the anchor. Also the two climbs across the creek that share an anchor just over the lip on a slab are missing their fixed rappel anchors. Climb 20 feet higher to a modern anchor with rappel rings to get back down to the ground or hangs some long slings on the ancient lower bolted anchor. There are presently 3o climbs in The Cloudburst Canyon. If the climb looks "clean" it probably has an anchor on top, so jump on it and have fun.
Chim-Chim
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
Sprocketville
Jul 25, 2009 - 10:46am PT
everbody get dangerous...dangerous


hey, who does toomstone terror?

is that pink floyd also?

one...of......these...days.....i'm...gonna....get.....me.....some......more.....of.....dat......hashish.

is that what he is saying?

i'm jus sayin...
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 26, 2009 - 08:39am PT

One of these days I'm gonna cut you you up into a million pieces. Wap

Chim-chim
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Jul 27, 2009 - 07:25am PT
Hi Chim,

What's this quarter pitch crack called:



I think I knew Paul from a few years back. If he climbed at RockSport in Reno, he'd tell me he was putting up new routes up in Woodfords.

Have fun today. I look forward to visiting OOTD later this week.
mcreel

climber
Barcelona
Jul 27, 2009 - 07:33am PT
Man, One of these days looks really great! Is it as good as Hospital Corner, though? Inquiring minds want to know.
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 27, 2009 - 07:36am PT
Heh Footloose, I don't recognize that corner you posted where is it? Maybe I'll recognize it then. Heading into Cloudburst today to do some standard classics. Going up to High Energy Wall Tuesday to chech out the new route that went up Sunday... A possible 5.12+... not that I know what 5.12+ is like, but it will be fun to "look" at. One of These Days is definately as good as Hosiptal Corner... same length, more varied, and easily two-letter grades harder and a simple ten minute approach. Check it out and see if you agree. Chim-Chim
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Jul 27, 2009 - 07:41am PT
Chim... it's right there on the OOTD formation, up stream... as you turn the formation. I wanted to ask you if it goes at just 5.8 or so.

Edit: And ask you if you think it's worthy of a toprope anchor given the surrounding terrain.

Edit2: That's it. :)

Edit 3: By the way, the reason I knew about OOTD is because I went up there a couple years back to practice my aid technique on it. I was alone so this explains why I've yet to give it a go. Look forward to it.
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 27, 2009 - 07:53am PT
Footloose, My friend re-cleaned that crack and called it "Lost and Found". an easy 5.9 no anchor except for the bolted anhor on the easy sport climb to the right,(uphill) from the finishing hand crack, an independent anchor would be very nice. Directly across from the corner, and the gully is a nice 5.10b The Green Tongue (chimney to a splitter crack to chain anchor). It provides access to the virtually untouched upper wall of Thunderhead Buttress a chain anchor can be seen high on the upper tier below a large tree to the right of a small pine tree on a small ledge This climb is called The Ent 5.10d a seventy meter rope would come in handy for the descent. Lets get up there and get busy on the upper tier, there are at least ten climbs to be cleaned and climbed. Chow Chim
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 28, 2009 - 08:23am PT
Heh Footloose we're heading up on Thursday to High Energy Wall, give a shout and maybe we could meet up. I was going to go out today.. too tired from yesterdays activities. It got kinda warm, the shade was good in the A.M., the afternoon was warm on the east-facing shady walls, until the downwinds picked up around 3 O'Clock, then conditions were perfect. No one in sight as usual... we were the only people climbing in the entire canyon... again. It getting sooo crowded, that I can see why people are concerned about all the activity.

Chim-Chim
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2009 - 08:36am PT
I went up and climbed Toomstone. Did there used to be a pin at the start? I haven't climbed at the Leap in a while, maybe my memory is getting bad. I also don't remember Toomstone as being so short, what is is seventy feet or something. One of these Days is longer, more sustained, and only has a fifteen minute approach. On of These Days has my vote, and it even has as much chalk on it as Toomstone. So if you want to get on it. just follow the well chalked path to the top... oh yeah bring a seventy meter rope.

Chim- Chim
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Aug 10, 2009 - 08:49pm PT
I'm headin up tomorrow, Tuesday-- so I can weigh in. Anyone else? Chim?
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 11, 2009 - 09:01am PT
Heh Footloose, we went out there yesterday(Monday). A couple of friends came up from the bay area. They got on One of these days... they were ecstatic. I didn't ask Tad if he had climbed Toomstone before... but he felt One of These Days was a five star route. We did a new filthy, barely mentionable f,a. to the right of Little Miss Manners... a right-facing corner to the communal anchor of L.M.M.'s. Across the creek I enstalled an anchor on a previous project(four yearsago we started it but got shut down). Went for the lead... 3o feet from the anchor I got stymied by bad protection. I plan on placing one or more protction bolts near the top of this fine 130foot 5.11 crack climb Hope you had a fun time up there today. Next time you head up you should jump on D-Cup... follow the creek up and right past OOTD wall. Just past a large pine tree is a staging area below a slabby angling crack leading to a finger-crack bulge crux. 110feet 5.10c There's a 5.8 wide crack to the right... a good warm-up.

Chim_Chim
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Aug 11, 2009 - 10:37am PT
Chim- If it's the same Tad that I know, he told me years ago that toomstone was one of the best .10 cracks at the leap. He was right, now you got me thinking about all of that untouched tahoe rock!

You guys are doing it right out there!

Tell TS I said howdy.

Mucci
Bertrand

Trad climber
SF
Aug 11, 2009 - 11:41am PT
Different Tad, Mooch. This one is scolding me for not getting on Tombstone the day before OOTD when waiting in line for Travelers. We could have made a VERY current comparison of the two climbs!

We settled for Hospital Corner, and between those two gems, I'd have to give the nod to OOTD.
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 12, 2009 - 09:19am PT
Heh Footloose, did you make it up there yesterday? We're heading up early Thursday a.m., come on up if you can... got some work to do... some anchor placements and cleaning yee-haw. But we usually do the messy stuff in the afternoon, post "actual" climbing, before the real suffering begins... there's lots to do. A wall with at least six lines awaits some much needed attention. Give me a shout if you're interested.

Chim-Chim
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City
Aug 12, 2009 - 09:33am PT
Chim
I may be able to come out for a while if I get my burningman sh#t done today. Let me know
Shawn
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 12, 2009 - 09:40am PT
Shaun. I'll call youin thhe a.m. to see if you're available, is your plan for Burning Man as sick as last year?

Chim-Chim
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City
Aug 12, 2009 - 09:56am PT
GIve me a shout. Always a little crazier than the year before.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Aug 12, 2009 - 11:11am PT
Chim,

Headin up Thurs morn, too!

See ya at One of These Days?
tadhunt

Trad climber
Sunnyvale, CA
Aug 12, 2009 - 10:54pm PT

Funny, I've probably only ever met one or two other Tads in my life. Not a very common name. But, it seems that Mucci and I are only 1 degree of separation apart -- I was at the base of Tombstone Terror on Sunday ... with his friend Jess.

We looked at TT and considered climbing it, but we didn't have a guidebook with us and weren't sure if it had an anchor, or if it topped out. We were scoping out ways to skip around a party just starting Traveler Buttress. But in the end, we dithered around long enough that P1 finally opened up, so we just went up the regular way. (Then we ran into a cluster on the big ledge before P2, but that's another story). If I had known then what it was, I definitely would have given it a go.

I climbed One of These Days on Monday (TR here: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=928807), and indeed it was an awesome climb. I loved the whole thing -- from the fingers start, through the cruise up to the roof, to the steep jamming above, and even the hand traverse into the chimney (knee-bar, yeah!) before clipping the chains. Yee-Ha!

Next time I'm at Lover's Leap, I'll definitely get on Tombstone for comparison.

-Tad
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Aug 12, 2009 - 10:58pm PT
Ah, your in good company with Jess!

Great partner, great climber, and he doesn't mind the big pig on the approach!

I am checking out the "Woods" real soon, those guys got somethin good going on there!

Cheers,

Mucci
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 14, 2009 - 09:06am PT
Heh Footloose, sorry we missed you yesterday...The weather was perfect. No one there nas usual. We got completely filthy yesterday cleaning Shaun's routes, the right hand climb had become overgrown... it looks like a real climb now. I placed a protection bolt on the project, and cleaned the cracks lower down...it may need one more bolt down low, I've climbed through some dubious sections on earlier attempts and it didn't seem so bad, but if you fell at a particular spot you could definately break your legs... so I may place a bolt to prevent a injury in the future. Any way OOtd didn't get an ascent yesterday so the competition is still on, awaiting a solid concensus... but so far it seems like like One of These Days has recieved more votes.

Chim-Chim
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Aug 14, 2009 - 02:42pm PT
My vote: One Of These Days. Wow!!
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Aug 14, 2009 - 05:31pm PT
I was just thinking, maybe I'm not qualified to vote.

Yep, I wasn't able to send it, I had to yard my way through. Or, how about this: You can vote-- but it's a vote with an asterisk till you send it.

Gotta know, how do you guys turn the roof? Do you bear hug the thing? Anyone out there hittin OOTD tomorrow, Sat, or Sun? Love to rip beta from you! What about you Chim?

What's OOTD's history? Anyone know who out there flashed it? It's not bragging if asked. I'm asking. LOve to know.

Was this Dan's putup? He and I went to the same county schools, just 15 minutes down the road. Ah, to be 20 again!

I think my grade, when it's all said and done, is going to be 5.10b/c (3s)... "s" meaning sustained...

A six pack is now in my trunk to the first person I witness send it on lead. Can hardly wait!

EDIT: Petch- What was your first experience on this? love to know, and the year, give me some details please.

I live just outside Genoa, NV, 20 min away, and never knew it was there in all THAT quality. At once, AUGHH and WOW! A fine project, indeed, for us 5.10a climbers...



Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 15, 2009 - 08:25am PT
Heh Footloose, I'm glad that you climbed One of These Days, it's a great climb isn't it? I turn the roof from a solid hand jam right-hand crack, and high-step onto a sloping foot-hold below the left-hand crack, Some times I use the spike to establish myself above the roof, or I just sorta push myself with my right palm, over to the left to seccure a thin-hand jam. Either way, I slam in a piece right away to calm myself before launching in the sustained head wall cracks above. Could this be one of the best 5.10 crack pitch in the state? I can't think of too many that can compare. It's one of those climbs that you wish were your own. More amazing though is the fact that there are probabally many, many more climbs of this quality that have never been seen, yet alone climbed. I know form scratching out climbs here that most of the climbs fall in the mid 5.10 range(mortal climbers can rejoice) and there are more climbs to establish than I can handle... any takers?
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City
Aug 15, 2009 - 08:41am PT
Chim
Were you thinking of putting a bolt on ativan grin?
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Aug 15, 2009 - 10:11am PT
Hey Guys,

Curious about those two anchor bolts on OOTD. Are they older bolts and new hangers?
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 16, 2009 - 08:54am PT
Heh Shaun, I placed some anchor bolts on the project to the left of Atvian Grin. Mark B. and I attempted the climb about five years ago, but backed off. There is so much rock to develope that we didn't go back... until recently. I re-led to our high-point, through some munge and some loose-ness but got shut down again, so I placed a bolt about thirty feet from the top, about 100 feet off the deck. I may place a bolt lower down to "sanitize" it for future ascents or not, I haven't decided yet. We gave your climbs a "hair cut" and a good "thrice over" with a wire brush. Both climbs protect adequately well... I excavated some excellent wire placements that were previously buried in the dirt-filled cracks... so I don't think any bolts are necessary. We're going up on Tuesday to work on some other climbs... you should come up. Give us a shout. Footloose I don't know anything abouit the anchor bolts on ootd but the sure come in handy if you own a seventy meter rope. Yee-haw
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City
Aug 17, 2009 - 07:16am PT
Nice work on that climb chim. Did it the same time I did ativan grin (On TR) the two crack at the top are fun as hell. Thought it went mid to low 11 for sure. Would love to come out but Im working 14 out of 16 days doing 12 hour shifts so Im outa the game for a bit. Thanks for all the cleaning on my ol' routes. Keep on plugging along. I will upload all the photos I have and let you decide which ones you want to use then I can go back and clean them up for the guide. Keep in touch.
Shawn
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2009 - 08:36am PT
Isw anyone going up to Cloudburst Canyon on Tuesday? We're heading out aroiund 9 a.m., We have three people going, and could use a fourth person to increase our efficiency. Give a shout.

Chim-Chim
sasha Cohen

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe CA
Aug 24, 2009 - 02:08pm PT
chim-chim you are the best!! Thanks for all your hard work. Hope to climb with you soon.
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 25, 2009 - 09:13am PT
Ha Sasha,ha I was thinking about climbing at Eagle Lake Cliff this week... and get on some "real quality" rock climbs. I'm sick of climbing all the chossy rock at the Woodfords, and I want to climb some good granite for a change. Maybe you should fly up from hollywood and we'll get out there. I hear that Eagle Creek is Waaay better than the Woodfords... we'll see.

Chow Chim
sasha Cohen

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe CA
Aug 26, 2009 - 03:57pm PT
Hi chim It's Sasha I'd much rather go climb at Woodford's canyon. I'll be flying in tonight so let's go climb tomorrow!!
Chow
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Aug 27, 2009 - 08:11am PT
One Of These Days... Wins again!

I took a friend to Woodfords yesterday who had also climbed Tombstone with me. He sent OOTD in amazing stellar fashion, gave it five stars, and said it was better.
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 28, 2009 - 08:10am PT
Looks like One of these Days is crushing toomstone... four votes for One of these days zero for Toomstone terror... come out and see if you agree. Even though OOTD has the public's endorsement, there are even better climbs ouit there... that haven't even been touched. So drive on by Eldorado County and come out and see for yourself. Yee-haw Chim
sasha Cohen

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe CA
Aug 28, 2009 - 02:04pm PT
Hey Chim,
Thanks for the great day in Cloudburst Canyon. Can't wait to climb with you again.
Sasha
jstan

climber
Aug 28, 2009 - 02:06pm PT
My hearing must be going.

I swear I can hear a drum going in the background.
nutjob

climber
Berkeley, CA
Sep 28, 2009 - 10:35am PT
I was in the neighborhood this weekend (well, east of Sacramento on Saturday night), and hooked up with Footloose and Msiddens for the Woodfords Tour.

Saturday night I slept under a gorgeous star-filled sky about a mile before echo summit, staring at the milky way, lulled by the rush of the river, and reeling in the post-gig high after a night of playing classic rock cover tunes at a pool-party in Cameron Park. We brought down the house with a reggae-version of the Gilligan's Island theme.

Sunday morning, after a little snafu meeting up at "the deli" in Woodfords, we did the five-minute drive and short and scenic approach hike (which I did in flip-flops and trader-joes shopping bag since I wasn't really prepared for climbing that weekend, but I did have my shoes & harness in the car).

Well, we only did one climb for the day because I had to git back to the bay early, but the climb was a good one! I hopped onto One of These Days, figuring the start would warm me up before I got to the crux. Well, there was no definite crux for me, but the whole pitch was outstanding and required careful milking of every possible rest. It requires a good variety of technique: fingerlocks, hands, maybe a fist or two, a chimney-style rest, so balancy no-hands rests, a sneeky knee-bar no-hands rest, and a cool traverse that can be powered through on hands or groveling wide/chimney style like I did. There was no place where I was forced to make a desperate hard move... just a continuous series of challenging but reasonable and fun moves.

That one pitch was enough to make me feel content for the day! I guess I have to try out Tombstone Terror now to make a proper comparison. If I lived close to Woodfords, I'd visit it all the time. But since Yosemite is the same time for me, well... you know. I'm still addicted to bigness. Bigness aside, I forgot how beautiful the Tahoe area is.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Sep 28, 2009 - 01:38pm PT
Ha! how about a few pics to augment the text...

Go Nutjob:



How cool is climbing!



In the overhang. Still going. Is this the making of an onsight flash?



A closeup of the fine finish. Whatever it takes...


Proud Send, Nutjob!
msiddens

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Sep 28, 2009 - 03:38pm PT
HA, good fun guys
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 29, 2009 - 08:31am PT
Nice lead nutjob I'm glad footloose took you on the tour. We,ve beenbuzy putting up some new climbs... but I wnat to get back on OTD before the snow flies. I'm glad you had fun up there. Chim
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Apr 19, 2010 - 05:36pm PT
I'll bump this for my own inspiration.
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2013 - 04:35pm PT
Bump for the fest! It's on biotches.
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
May 17, 2013 - 08:13pm PT
WoooHoooo!

Do I have good taste in shirts or what?

One of these days I have to get back to that area. When the kids get a little bigger I might take them camping and climbing there.

Footloose, Msiddens, it was a fun day with you guys, hope you're doing well.
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
May 17, 2013 - 11:42pm PT
What's the bolted thing to the left. Thought that thing was hard. Barely squeeked out the onsight.
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2013 - 07:42am PT
Chad, I don't know the name... was bolted by a man named Paul that lived in Woodfords for a while. I don't like the cold shut anchor, has it been replaced? What do you think 5.12b? Bicepy!
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
May 19, 2013 - 11:02pm PT
It's been a year or two but I think it still had shuts. .12b sounds about right. Someone told me it was like .11a/b but I think they were FOS! There's definitely a couple good moves and one stopper section, but just about every move in between is solid .11, and it's loooooong...
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
May 20, 2013 - 05:24am PT
You finally got out there for some of the more classic stuff, Sal? Is your opinion of Woodfords improved?
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
May 20, 2013 - 06:29am PT
woodfords is a chosspile yer better off at sugarloaf or the leap.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
May 20, 2013 - 06:32am PT
The hike to climb ration is better at those crags, that's true. The bay area climber ratio is waaaaay better at Woodfords though. And that counts for a lot ;).

This is my Woodfords leap year though, so I should just shut my dirty mouth.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
May 20, 2013 - 06:34am PT
six or eight people is a busy day at cloudburst
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
May 20, 2013 - 06:37am PT
God bless that extra hour of driving from the West. It guards the gates.
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
May 20, 2013 - 07:01pm PT
The places I typically climb, seeing another person in a season would be a busy season, let alone a day. I get what you're saying though, that extra hour guards the gates for sure, especially during the winter months.

I got nothing against Woodfords, I think it's a priceless recourse for the adventurous spirit. The only thing that keeps you from seeing my face on a weekly basis is that there are several, mostly undeveloped areas with really big and bold top notch routes to be done and all just a bit closer. Pitches over 50 to 60ft are a rarity at Woodfords and I like setting off into the unknown and putting up routes that are 5 and 6 full length 180ft+ pitches.

I don't know, maybe I just need a tour guide for a day or two. Sometimes just craggin is a relief.


...and as far as pure quality of the route goes, One of These Days is a far superior route to little ol Tombstone.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
May 20, 2013 - 07:42pm PT
I hear ya, Sal. I mean bay area in more in the sense of the higher ratio of n00bs that originate from there (i.e. not you). There are plenty of great climbers coming out of there too, but you tend to get more of the pure gym climber coming out to the crag thing from that area.

I should know, I lived out there and in Sacramento (basically the same thing) and was that crowd for the beginning of my climbing career ;).

Woodfords has the adventure for sure. Pretty cool people are still picking off lines of all grades there. I have reason to think it won't ever get blown out with people the way other crags have, but who knows.
Friedo

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
May 21, 2013 - 11:05am PT
Pitches over 50-60 ft are a rarity at Woodfords? I don't think you were climbing in the 'Fords Bro. Yes, there are some shorter routes, but I ALWAYS BRING A 70 TO WOODFORDS!!! ALWAYS!!!
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2013 - 02:18pm PT
Yup!
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
May 21, 2013 - 07:19pm PT
Well, maybe I'm wrong. What do I know anyway, the only thing I've climbed there is OOTD and all the other stuff on that particular wall. Not much around looked any taller and I was able to rap off that thing with a 60m. I may have downclimbed a little.

Anyway, I'd like to get back there and do a little more exploring around. Where's all the good stuff at? Or at least, where should I start looking around. Somewhere with a decent concentration of solid .10's .11's and maybe low .12's to start. Cracks would be preferred. With the amount of vertical realestate, I'm sure y'all ain't kidding when you say there's a shitload of great climbing all around there. Maybe I should poke my nose in around there this weekend what with all the people that are going to be up there for your festivities. There's no better source for beta than the local source.
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - May 22, 2013 - 04:10pm PT
Chad, I'll have a map of High Energy Wall to hand out to the revelers. One 5.8, two 5.9's six 5.10's,four 5.11's,five 5.12's. Should keep ya busy. Dan
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
May 22, 2013 - 05:11pm PT
Holy sh#t... really? That's a good full day.
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