One fo these Days vs. Toomstone Terror

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Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 23, 2009 - 05:47pm PT
I was kinda wunderin' which climb is better, One of these Days at Woodfords Canyon or Toomstone Terror at Lovers Leap? They're both 5.10c. I've climbed both, a dozen times or more and I think One of These Days is way better. What do you think?
WhyCantGerbalsDrive

climber
Lee Vining, CA
Jul 23, 2009 - 08:37pm PT
do you have a job chim chim?
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
way, WAY out there....(OMG)
Jul 23, 2009 - 08:43pm PT
Now, what kinda climber question is that?
The man asked a legit question.
I have no answers, but I'm outa range.
Not a gerbil fan, is all.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Jul 23, 2009 - 09:19pm PT
Hi Chim,

Saw your other post, too. Hey, kudos to you for your efforts in Woodfords and for keeping us in the loop and inspired. Dig those pictures, too.

When will you be up there / down there again? Tomorrow, Friday? (Maybe I might steal away for a couple of hours.) Otherwise, I'm down south in the High Sierras this weekend, but next week I'll do my best to finish off this intriguing comparison study we've formulated! and let you know.

Happy climbing!

Edit: "way better" ??? we'll see! :)
Petch

Gym climber
Lover's Leap
Jul 23, 2009 - 10:17pm PT
I give it to One of these days. Twice as long and way more sustained.

But then there is Absoulutely Billie;)
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Jul 24, 2009 - 07:25am PT
Tombstone Terror, 5.10c
For reference, guys...



Let the competition begin! :)

By the way, personally I'll be comparing One of these Days to Tombstone's Variation B: which is up the yellow lichen on the arete...
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2009 - 07:54am PT
Footloose, we're heading up on Monday. Some people from Yosemite are coming into town, and want to see if all the "hype" is for real. I'm confident that the cracks will more than meet their approval. Hope to see you up there.

I haven't climbed the 5.10c Billie route. I hope to get out there and climb some of those routes. Heh Gerbel Boy do you know Richard Gere? I bet he'd let you drive.
caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
Jul 24, 2009 - 08:21am PT
I was wondering about that variation B on the Terror, just noticed it last week! Good stuff?
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2009 - 08:25am PT
Is that variation a top-rope variation or can it be led? I haven't been ton the Leap in years, did someone squeeze in a bolted line between Toomstone Terror and Paul's route to the right?
caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
Jul 24, 2009 - 08:50am PT
No, not a squeeze, no bolts on it.

In the photo above, you can see the underclingy crack moving right through the yellow lichen above, putting you into the finish of Boothill. It looked doable and leadable, but haven't given it a run yet. Boot Terror? Tombstone Hill? Looks like fun.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Jul 24, 2009 - 03:22pm PT
One Of These Days, 5.10c
For comparison:



It's got yellow lichen, too. :)

Caughtinside- yes, Var. B. on Tombstone: good stuff, it protects well, easy to think of as a hybrid. I like those nicknames...

Chim- yea, you can lead it just like Caughtinside said. I'll try OOTD next week.

BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City
Jul 24, 2009 - 10:29pm PT
Another view of "One of These Days"
Doesn't look 165 ft but.......

Chim have fun on Monday. Wish I could go but gotta work sometime this month.
Shawn
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 25, 2009 - 08:03am PT
The Ron Anderson guide describes One of These Days as being 165 ft., probably due to the fact that most ropes used during that time were 50 meters(165 feet) the exageration in length as Jack Nickalson put it so well in A Few Good Men "probably saved lives". The actual length is around 120ft. With a 70 meter rope it is possible to lower off to the left(uphill side) to the ground. A 5.12a to the left can be set up for t.r. with some directionals on the many bolts that were installed by a guy named Paul who moved out of the area several years ago. The climb is excellent, however the independent anchor down and to the left of the chain anchor of One of These Days is sketchy. It looks like it belongs in Owens River Gorge circa 1995 before Marty beefed up the anchors with a third bolt. The anchor in question when weighted, levers the open-shut, open, a dangerous situation. So for now be aware that the positioning of the anchor as well as the nature of the anchor itself is no entirely sound. As soon as I get some spare bolts I plan on fixing the anchor. Also the two climbs across the creek that share an anchor just over the lip on a slab are missing their fixed rappel anchors. Climb 20 feet higher to a modern anchor with rappel rings to get back down to the ground or hangs some long slings on the ancient lower bolted anchor. There are presently 3o climbs in The Cloudburst Canyon. If the climb looks "clean" it probably has an anchor on top, so jump on it and have fun.
Chim-Chim
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
Sprocketville
Jul 25, 2009 - 10:46am PT
everbody get dangerous...dangerous


hey, who does toomstone terror?

is that pink floyd also?

one...of......these...days.....i'm...gonna....get.....me.....some......more.....of.....dat......hashish.

is that what he is saying?

i'm jus sayin...
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 26, 2009 - 08:39am PT

One of these days I'm gonna cut you you up into a million pieces. Wap

Chim-chim
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Jul 27, 2009 - 07:25am PT
Hi Chim,

What's this quarter pitch crack called:



I think I knew Paul from a few years back. If he climbed at RockSport in Reno, he'd tell me he was putting up new routes up in Woodfords.

Have fun today. I look forward to visiting OOTD later this week.
mcreel

climber
Barcelona
Jul 27, 2009 - 07:33am PT
Man, One of these days looks really great! Is it as good as Hospital Corner, though? Inquiring minds want to know.
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 27, 2009 - 07:36am PT
Heh Footloose, I don't recognize that corner you posted where is it? Maybe I'll recognize it then. Heading into Cloudburst today to do some standard classics. Going up to High Energy Wall Tuesday to chech out the new route that went up Sunday... A possible 5.12+... not that I know what 5.12+ is like, but it will be fun to "look" at. One of These Days is definately as good as Hosiptal Corner... same length, more varied, and easily two-letter grades harder and a simple ten minute approach. Check it out and see if you agree. Chim-Chim
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Jul 27, 2009 - 07:41am PT
Chim... it's right there on the OOTD formation, up stream... as you turn the formation. I wanted to ask you if it goes at just 5.8 or so.

Edit: And ask you if you think it's worthy of a toprope anchor given the surrounding terrain.

Edit2: That's it. :)

Edit 3: By the way, the reason I knew about OOTD is because I went up there a couple years back to practice my aid technique on it. I was alone so this explains why I've yet to give it a go. Look forward to it.
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 27, 2009 - 07:53am PT
Footloose, My friend re-cleaned that crack and called it "Lost and Found". an easy 5.9 no anchor except for the bolted anhor on the easy sport climb to the right,(uphill) from the finishing hand crack, an independent anchor would be very nice. Directly across from the corner, and the gully is a nice 5.10b The Green Tongue (chimney to a splitter crack to chain anchor). It provides access to the virtually untouched upper wall of Thunderhead Buttress a chain anchor can be seen high on the upper tier below a large tree to the right of a small pine tree on a small ledge This climb is called The Ent 5.10d a seventy meter rope would come in handy for the descent. Lets get up there and get busy on the upper tier, there are at least ten climbs to be cleaned and climbed. Chow Chim
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