pictures of Cruel Shoes at Squamish

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MH2

climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 21, 2009 - 03:37am PT
From Russ S.

Post some pictures from Cruel Shoes (if you have them)- that's route worth driving for!



Cruel Shoes can be started via Apron Strings

or The Flake







Cruel Shoes from the base, party of 3 on corner pitch






closer look at party of 3 on corner pitch






pitches 1 and 2(traverse) from a distance







Corner and pitches 4/5 to base of Split Pillar






looking down the corner pitch






from last Saturday

the traverse






leaving the top of the corner, starting pitch 4






final approach to Split Pillar






coming down past Mercy Me







The crux on pitch 5






cowpoke

climber
Jul 21, 2009 - 08:19am PT
Looks worth flying for as well. Seems to cover a lot of beautiful stone and some of that slab looks pretty darn tricky and run out. Thanks for the tour!
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jul 21, 2009 - 09:29am PT
Great photos! For me, Cruel Shoes is the only way to start the Grand Wall- makes for a fantastic outing with a lot of variety.
MH2

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2009 - 05:37pm PT
another day on Cruel Shoes

pitch 1






the well bolted last pitch



Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Jul 21, 2009 - 06:17pm PT
Does that start right from where the main grand wall trail meets the wall?


so much nice rock up there
Russ S.

climber
Seattle, WA
Jul 21, 2009 - 06:48pm PT
MH2 - thanks for posting the pictures. Cruel Shoes is one of my favorite Squam. climbs. Done it 4-5 times, but I don't have any photos of it - pre-digital camera days. Always did the Apron Strings approach, but the Flake looks interesting as well...
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jul 21, 2009 - 06:55pm PT
The Flake is quite an interesting climb. One can unimaginatively do it as a lieback, but there is scope for a variety of techniques, including stemming, jamming and a bit of chimneying. As it is the first pitch of the Grand Wall, no more need be said about its place in history.
pip the dog

Mountain climber
planet dogboy
Jul 21, 2009 - 09:27pm PT
typically excellent photos, "from the inside," MH2.

here's a mindblower for you: in my 5 or 6 trips to squamish over the years (perhaps a month there in total) -- i've never once been rained on, just there. kisimet, baby... (think september and then some).
~~~

i agree that cruel shoes is the best way to the split pillar (at least relative to apron strings/merci me). the whole gig is surely one of the best routes i've ever done -- though i've never finished with the roman chimneys -- so perhaps i have no right to comment on the 'whole enchilada'. but that what i did, i really dug. thrice.


^,,^
MH2

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 22, 2009 - 11:39pm PT
Does that start right from where the main grand wall trail meets the wall?


Yes.

The Flake and Apron Strings slightly left, the beautiful Exasperator crack a couple hundred feet right, and War of the Raptors in your face.

Cruel Shoes overhead.
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Jul 22, 2009 - 11:46pm PT
one of the best routes anywhere. It was a long time ago, but on (I think) the pitch 5 crux, I finally gave up climbing and made a no-points-of-contact lunge for the ledge. Whew, stuck it,

Thanks for the photos.
MH2

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 23, 2009 - 01:28am PT
Cruel Shoes from another perspective

Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Jul 23, 2009 - 01:36am PT
wearing the cruel shoes?

cool shot, busting the book out now
Russ S.

climber
Seattle, WA
Jul 23, 2009 - 04:42am PT
"one of the best routes anywhere. It was a long time ago, but on (I think) the pitch 5 crux, I finally gave up climbing and made a no-points-of-contact lunge for the ledge. Whew, stuck it,"

Mike - were you climbing with Laurel B. by any chance?
MH2

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 23, 2009 - 01:38pm PT
Laurel B. = Laurel Black?
Tahoe Bill

Trad climber
ca
Jul 23, 2009 - 02:45pm PT
Brings back floods of great memories!last time i was there was 94! When one could park you bus in the campground all stay all summer for free!
I'll never forget doing cruel shoes up to the split pillar!, past the undercling pitch and up to the walk off ledges. One of the top ten days, of my colorfull 30 yrs of climbing.
Russ S.

climber
Seattle, WA
Jul 23, 2009 - 02:57pm PT
LB = Laurel Black - yes

In either '84 or '85 we were climbing Cruel Shoes (2nd or 3rd time) and we were right behind Laurel and I'm pretty sure her partner was named Mike. He was shorter so had to launch on the 5.10D move - it was fun to watch. Being taller, I can extend to max and get finger tips on the ledge...naturally my partners call it "cheating".
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Jun 15, 2012 - 01:55pm PT
Bumpy shoes
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Jun 15, 2012 - 02:03pm PT
Excellent photos; thanks for posting.

Does the Flake itself get done much anymore?
MisterE

Social climber
Jun 15, 2012 - 02:25pm PT
Just had to post this:

http://www.aj.cz/celeb/sm3/cruel_shoes.mp3
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Jun 17, 2012 - 04:39am PT
hahahahahaha Relic! Tell Glenn about your sickness inducing flake experience friday night!!!
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