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Jul 21, 2009 - 09:48pm PT
in winter '77 eddie b and i spent 3 weeks in canon tajo, cragging between weather events so in order to view the big feature from all sides we decided to descend the gully on the south, and complete the survey on the last day after a bivy beneath it. before dawn we scooted in under a boulder due to rain, at daybreak the creek was rolling so we hastily crossed and stuffed our sacks on the correct side while it rose to an impassable level before our eyes.

the ascent of the north gully and back to camp was it's very own adventure. the houdini move of the day was high deluge bouldering avoided by threading a crooked tunnel pushing our packs ahead and birthing out onto a narrow ledge while pinning the pack off to the side. but we made it to camp. "critical" supplies were exhausted, snow abated but rain persisted, and henry barber was showing some slides that night in la jolla.

there is a section of the road which is one and the same with the wash and it cuts a bank about as tall as the tires. so i'd say entering a galloping sluice in a vw van was a "dubious" call and wouldn't have succeeded but that it was down stream and we could match rafting speed at high revs in first gear. the steam boiling out of the defroster forced me to drive with my head out the window to find the crucial exit point where slamming the sandy cutbank with enough uomph and at the proper angle in a one shot slam bam huckledy-buck...well that was all that saved us from careening downstream into a V notch affair that led to who knows where.

they say release of tension equals joy, and so it was in this case. as the heater tubes dried out, crud and debris danced like bingo balls in an aerial display above the defrosters. we didn't miss a meal and the show was painless. big whoop huh?
but it makes my point posted up thread that success obscures stupidity
Big Piton

Trad climber
Jul 21, 2009 - 10:06pm PT
I started dating my partner, then she excepted me to carry everything to the rock.

I asked her what was up? She told me she was talking to a girl at the cliff and her dude took care of everything when they went climbing. So, the following weekend she called and found that I was heading to yosemite without her. She freaked out, when she found out I was with her sis.

I told her that since "sis" wasn't my girlfriend I would get more climbing in. Well that's my story and I am sticking to it.

BTW: she cut up my extra rope into 2 " pieces while we were gone.



A long way from where I started
Jul 22, 2009 - 12:00am PT
Ha ha. Dummies all!

Keep the stories coming.
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
way, WAY out there....(OMG)
Jul 22, 2009 - 12:40am PT
Yeah, this is a great thread.

Social climber
Vancouver, Canada
Jul 22, 2009 - 01:02am PT
Oh, hey, David, I was wonderin' what to post to this thread but instead I"ll just post a dead salmon to yer house :-D

Dang I remember those crampoons. They sucked ass. Also popped off when I was leadin' the first pitch of Weepin' Wall in the Rotties. I think that's only gr2 or 3 or somethign easy so it wasn't too bad .

I've never had luck with crampons.

Apart from makin' you a tad nervous with my crap-poon that was a lovely day in the mtns. I think we did the first - and last - winter ascent of Yak. IT's now closed to climbing in the winter c'os of avi control for the hiway.

Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Jul 22, 2009 - 01:09am PT
Oh, eh, rappelling down the NA after I had broken (rebroken actually, I orginally broke it in Colorado 10 days before while bouldering but had plans for the NA and had hiked loads up to the base with a cast on my leg but had jumped into the Merced and had chopped the cast off with a piton and then gone up on the route but had broken it again while hauling) my ankle. I had a big pack with all our cans of food and the first 4 pitches of the NA being very steep, had gotten my hair stuck in the rappel system.
It wasn't exactly fun tearing the hair out of my head and the rappel system, all the while my ankle hitting the wall, killing me, trying not to let go of the rope and dropping to my death.

That was pretty much not fun, but yes, stupid.
Dick Erb

June Lake, CA
Jul 22, 2009 - 02:30pm PT
Once in my early Yosemite days I decided that it would be a good idea to rope solo the Chouinard-Herbert route on the NF of Sentinel. Things were going well and nearing halfway I started feeling rain. I looked around, the sky was dark with clouds, and and chose to rap off. A few rappels later I am on top of Chessman pinnacle. There was some third and fourth class down to the next rappel, so to save the time of coiling and uncoiling the rope I grabbed one end of the rope hanging above me and started climbing down a gully that narrowed to a chimney. It was here with my back on one wall and my feet on the other that I heard a block tumbling down. It looked about like a cubic basketball ricocheting off the walls into the funnel I spanned. As I was trying to get into the back of the chimney it sailed past about a foot or so away. Now that was dumb and I knew it right away, so it must not be the dumbest thing, which was probably soloing the Lost Arrow Tip with only one jumar clipped to my swami for a belay, and not even knowing I had done anything dangerous until much later.

Gym climber
Jul 22, 2009 - 03:17pm PT
Nice shot of your injury and the road below Black Wall. Sure Mark H. recognized it too Willoughby. Great epic accounts all! Reminds me of all the dumb things I did at Donner. One has to be the time I belayed Rocko Rampino while he tr'd Goldilocks. Getting to the top, he proceeds to move anchor slings/biners down to Gold Dust anchor bolts, then climbs over edge expecting to be lowered to the ground. Problem is: I'm too far back now and talking to Rick Sylvester with my back turned. Needless to say, I find myself being dragged on my back toward base of cliff over boulders. When I stop, I look up to see Rocko just above me. Nice lowering job for him since I kept the belay hand steady the whole time. I ended up with broken ribs. Only bones ever broken climbing.
Gene Drake

Boulder climber
Jul 22, 2009 - 03:54pm PT
Belaying Largo on at tr, on the wall above Camp 4, he says he's off, at the same time some friends walk up and start talking to me, I let go of the cord, next thing I know, the cord is sizzling, Largo yelling, I grab the cord and stop his fall. He yells, what kind of f###ing belay was that. I never did tell him what really happened.
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
way, WAY out there....(OMG)
Jul 22, 2009 - 04:25pm PT
Pure Gold.
Love the foot shot, W.(arrrggh.)
Off White

Tenino, WA
Jul 22, 2009 - 07:38pm PT
Well Jefe, I sorta think you might have told him now!

Trad climber
Joshua Tree
Jul 22, 2009 - 09:23pm PT
3 hits of acid.

Chalkless climber
the Gunks end of the country
Jul 22, 2009 - 10:49pm PT
Just last night I was climbing for about 4 hours. Hot. Sweaty. Dirty! Shirtless. Some manky old steel that really made me wonder. Cord got stuck a couple times. Eventually, had it wired.

Then one of my partners asked where I left the wire cutters. I said I think I left them on the scaffolding he was working on.

Turns out I laid them down on an air duct after snipping a cable tie.


Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
Jul 23, 2009 - 01:37pm PT
Spit on another party below....not purposeful, of course. Big loogey hit the dood square on top of the noggin'!

Social climber
Raleigh NC
Jul 24, 2009 - 11:04am PT
Bump! More!

climber's near nevada...
Jul 24, 2009 - 11:10am PT
narrowing it down is the hard part...

clipping into my knott bight instead of my harness, then starting to untie the rope ?

grabbing the damn pro as i peeled and ripping my shoulder ?

putting the top prusik on one rope and the footloops on the other, instead of both on both, and pulling myself upsidedown as soon as i weighted them ?

soloing bolted quartzite with daisy chains and hooks ?

the list goes on...

Jul 24, 2009 - 11:20am PT
I went to 90 foot wall on a weekend...stupid.

Jul 28, 2009 - 07:25pm PT

C'mon. There's gotta be more dumb things done by supertopoans. I've read to many of your posts to believe otherwise :)
corniss chopper

Mountain climber
san jose, ca
Jul 28, 2009 - 10:00pm PT
During college a friend got accepted to be in the Shuttle
program and we were partying . About 10pm after talking about rock climbing for awhile we somehow loaded the car and drove up the
Scottsdale Hwy to the rockpile. The idea agreed on was the full moon was just up and we could use its light to climb a short wall. No headlamps.
I led, and had to lean sideways a lot to see the holds.
My future astronaut friend freaked out on the way up and was
twitching like a spaz as I pulled him the last bit up to the ledge.

Had to lower him to the ground as he was messed up. Later I had that 'moment' of fearful clarity that this genius had been belaying me! But the desert at night is magic so not a total

Big Wall climber
Nor Nev
Feb 11, 2010 - 06:22pm PT
I did not do this but my partner and I were headed up Zodiac and he is leading the first pitch. Gets to the traverse over to the anchor and from about 5 feet away he thinks he is going to do some sort of jumping lunge to the anchor. He goes to jump after I give him some slack and the piece he is standing on blows as he jumps and blows a few moreand he takes a good 30 footer. I asked him every pitch after that if he was going to jump to the anchor when he gets close.

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