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dogtown
climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
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Jul 19, 2009 - 04:19am PT
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Oh, one more thing; If Scarpelli lived in the Valley for any kind of time, The climbing names in the world as we all know it would be much different. This Crag He call’s home is extremely difficult. I came out here thirteen years ago thinking I was the shizz and his stuff blew my mind. I ran into him last year at Crow Creek boulders pumping out the problem Process of Belief, V7 5.13b the dude is older than me! And still has a sh#t load of steam left in him. He’s a f*#king power house! Not to mention a nut!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 19, 2009 - 05:07am PT
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I wrastled with Bob once, and I am proud to say that with my five inch height advantage, I was able to keep him from getting me all the way into a garbage can!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 19, 2009 - 11:47am PT
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I wouldn't do battle with Scarpelli if I had a fully loaded Uzi and he had his hands tied behind his back.
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scooter
climber
fist clamp
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Jul 19, 2009 - 12:38pm PT
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Donini-
in '72 the cowboys probably make a mistake brawling with you, considering you were a differnt type of professional not long before that. HA!
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hooblie
climber
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Jul 19, 2009 - 02:25pm PT
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jaybro, PERFECTLY executed!
jan, i've enjoyed your posts here and nominate you for the "most undersold, richest potential" award. my heart sank and the little voice in me wailed at the injustice when i got to the part about your fracture in the course of belaying. there are some thuds embedded in the story of this tribe that should not go quietly into the night. i hope you continue to step up and command the podium with your authentic contributions.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jul 19, 2009 - 03:00pm PT
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flag posse rolls deep, hard, and tight.
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nick farley
climber
bishop
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Jul 19, 2009 - 05:42pm PT
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Get with the program. Let's break it down by country, Euro style.
French climbers think they invented climbing and so they are at the top of the EGO system.
Germans are willing to die trying so maybe they're first in the summit or die system.
Swiss have it all figured out... as far as, well, everything. They rate first in the actually getting up something catagory.
Italians get the women. Who needs climbing when you are scoring anyway?
The Brits can hang on a long time, plus they are actually fun to hang out with.
Spainish climbers usually have hash. That makes them the coolest of the bunch.
Seriously: The trick is not in figuring out the different clicks in the climbing community, the trick is figuring out in
which click you belong. This one, that one, doesn't matter. Just join in the fun. That's the point.
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hooblie
climber
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Jul 19, 2009 - 07:13pm PT
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i'll throw in with the brits. walking thru camp four i kept an ear peeled for the british accents and diverted into camp everytime. those guys were funny just as a baseline condition. never earned their respect in the department of drinking, will always regret not traveling to great britain when i had a chance to make up for it on the crags. more than just the humor, there's something to be said for reveling in each other's company and hunching the shoulders often so the chips don't pile up
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Rob_James
Ice climber
Aoraki/Mt. Cook Village, New Zealand
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Jul 19, 2009 - 09:23pm PT
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The hardmen of the Tatra and Julian Alps are the most gregarious I've met
Pons are fantastic and generally funny self-effacing and keen to share space or move to the side if you're moving a little quicker.
The Chamonix natives are tough at first, but once they've warmed to you (if you leave 'their' women alone it takes about 3 months) - solid mates to the end. Despite the temperment though, if you spray without actually having done anything you'll be rightly ridiculed
The Italians in Courmayear - whatever dudes. What desperado heads to the bar with his sleeping bag between his knees. We love Bonatti, but are the rest (as has been said) climbers that love to f@!k or f'ers that like to climb.
Camp 4 was once the easiest place to find lads keen for a multi-pitch push. Oncev climbing' true Mecca. Alas the place seems quiet right now - when once everyone was up at 05:00 and climbing till dark. This summer it's been mostly posers impressing 'families' with "yeah I'm a climber" (but I'm really only here to boulder and meander the base of routes reading my topos)
And well, I've always managed to find partners in Leysin and the Oberland - you just gotta stick your hand-out rather than waiting for others to smile first
We are mighty keen for Int'l guests down my way. A warm welcome is always guaranteed
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jul 19, 2009 - 10:29pm PT
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Dude! What the hell you doing in Switzerland? Sell your assets, become a dirtbag, and move to the Centre of the Universe - Yosemite Valley, and in particular the El Cap Bridge.
Why are you wasting your time in Europe when you belong with us?
Now - go buy yourself a plane ticket, and we'll see you in September for a beer, eh?
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Alpenweg
Trad climber
St. Gallen Switzerland
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 22, 2009 - 03:08am PT
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thanks
repl to pass the piton pete
thanks for the reminder i will be there next year
alpenweg
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Curt
Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
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Jul 22, 2009 - 03:12am PT
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"...well, you're never a local if you weren't born there..."
Then you're pretty much screwed outside of WI.
Curt
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 22, 2009 - 03:38am PT
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My own climbing community kicks ass!!!111™
For the last couple of months or so, I've gotten together every three says or so with various elements of the extended BAWC, to climb wide woodies, put up new routes, do early repeats, Climb, cracks, slabs, granite, volcanics and the Franciscan formation, also create new T-shirt designs, Get computer modification, beta, etc. all in an impossibly supportive, granfalloon.
One More Scarpellis story he told me and assured me was true.
New year's eve, the 'Million dollar Cowboy bar™', Jackson hole wyo.
Bob was quietly perched on his saddle nursing a beverage, When two couples from jersey decked out in appropriate Western wear™ from a nearby 'Drugstore' take the saddles by him.
Bob apprises his neighbor.
"That's a purdy hat, wanna arm wrastle for it?"
The horrified Joiseyites couldn't flee to the 20º below, 'warmth' on the square, fast enough...
Further news Flash Bob told me that he was quoting a John Wayne Movie, when christened the then potential world's hardest offwidth, Belly full of bad Berries.
Could be.
But the other day on the hundredth viewing of 'Cat Ballou' I heard the line where Kid Shaleen (Lee Marvin in an Oscar winning performence, beat Omar shariff's fake russian ass in Dr Zhivago) says," I don't wanna die with a bellyfull of bad booze!"
Could it be?
Bob will always be part of MY climbing community!
Even though I was born in Chicago and currently live in California....
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Haggis
Trad climber
Scotland
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Jul 22, 2009 - 05:32am PT
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Alpenweg
I am always looking for people to climb with, come to Scotland for a winter break and we can wait out the weather in a high corrie or go sea cliff climbing in feb(because there's no snow and its 10 above) and watch the seals .
Regarding Euro style. I have found it rewarding after you have broken the ice (which can take a few weeks) esp if you are prepared to try and speak the lingo however climbing in Europe climbing is split very much into people who climb in the mountains and those who don't so be sure you know which group you want to be with otherwise you will end up clipping bolts in wales or bouldering in font rather than cruising long routes on an Alp.
In the UK climbing is "trendy" and we have a lot of people with all the gear and no idea however the real guys are great to hang out with after they know you a little, with the exception of Glaswegians who will climb with you before you introduce yourself.
good luck!
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Jul 22, 2009 - 11:27am PT
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"'...well, you're never a local if you weren't born there...'"
Then you're pretty much screwed outside of WI.
Curt"
Actually, it was Southern Illinois. Fortunately, there's good bouldering there.
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