Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 11 of total 11 in this topic |
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 13, 2009 - 01:28pm PT
|
INTRODUCTION-
After driving several times a week to climb in my friend Doug Englekirk’s gym (it’s 12 sheets, 3 roof sections, and in a 5 car garage) I decided enough was enough. I needed a place to get a fast workout when I have a free moment (during the kids nap!), an escape, or just feel the pull of the tendons on something steep. So I checked out my friend Ken Klis’ backyard woody and modified his design (his was REALLY cheap).
First, let me preface this by saying there are more technical, expensive, lasting, ways to build this thing. For example you could level the site with a transit, use all treated lumber, rebar the hell out of the footings, know how to do trig… But this is MY way… I am no math wizard, but have 6 years construction experience and can usually figure stuff out. I’m 41, and if it will last 15 years I’ll be 56 and that’ll work. I don’t need it to last forever. So here we go –
This is the near finished woody (above), sans holds. (notice the pressure treated scabs on the legs on the right).
This is my site... my backyard.
Step 1: Find a suitable place and orientation.
You’ll need an area about 20 x 20’ to work with. Any smaller and it’ll be hard to move stuff around. Think a lot about the orientation. I first had mine facing the west so I’d get the evening light on it (beautiful light on the cedar stained wood and nice for pictures). But then realized the predominate winds come from the west/northwest, and this thing was going to turn into a giant plywood kite if I wasn’t careful. So I worked with the natural aerodynamic shape of this design (an A-Frame) and had it face the southeast. The winds would flow right over it in most conditions. I also placed it BEHIND my kids’ play/climbing structure so I would be hidden from the view from the kitchen window, ha ha. “Honey, are you out there???” sssshhhhhhh
If you CAN find a spot, proceed to step 2. If not, you'll have to join a gym.
(Above) Bags O' Cement, and Syd the guard dog on the ready.
La Wood (add 1 - 2"x6"x10' pressure treated... not shown)
Step 2: Materials list
For this design you’ll need:
Materials: (approx. $160)
3 sheets of 3/4” x 4’ x 8’ plywood
1 - 12’ x 2” x 4” (middle stringer)
2 – 14’ x 4” x 6” post (legs/supports)
2 – 14’ x 2”x 6” (outside edges of wall)
1 - 2"x6"x10' (attach to 2x6" pressure treated legs to bury in concrete for added support)
6 – 2”x4” x 8’ (inside supports)
4 - 1’ pieces of rebar 2 - 6” x 1/2” bolts
4 - 7” x 1/2” bolts about
12 bags of cement
wood stain (I used cedar – kinda gold-ish)
Tools: (either you own them or you are gonna have to borrow and owe someone some beer- some GOOD beer, tools aren’t cheap! Or give them a free 4 month membership to your backyard gym)
hammer, nails, 2” screws, drill, 1/2” paddle bit, 5/8” augor bit, saw, Phillips head drill bit, tape measure, framers square, stringline, chalk line, 2’ or 4’ level.
Step 3: Tee Nut Layout and drill
Do your layout (your call… I used 18” stagger… but many use a 12” stagger – whatever you want. I am poor and knew I wasn’t going to fill this sucker with tons of holds – you can always add more later – remember this is the CHEAP woody). Use a chalk line and mark it off using your tape measure. (see photo) Then bang in your Tee Nuts. Use plated since it’s outside. They are around .25 cents a nut from Nicros (see website)
(Above) This is the Tee Nut layout. Many variations. I'll probably add more later, and it'll be easy to access... just climb up the backside and drill.
Step 4: Stain the wood
I used one gallon of Duckback cedar colored stain, and one roll and roller. I had about 4 ounces left for touch-ups. It helps to drill your wood first so that the stain can soak into the holes as well. You can also paint it, but it’s harder, messy, harder to maintain. Plus, I like the color of wood.
Step 5: Frame the rectangle
See photo. 2x6s go on the outside, 2x4 in the middle. I did a 4’ spread. Best is to do a 2’ spread for 2x4s. But I’m cheap. You DO get what you pay for, but sometimes it can be overkill. You can decide for yourself. 2x4s are cheap. (I can always add support later). I also added a 2"x6"x 5' pressure treated scab to the 2"x6" legs to give more support in the footing. But you don't need it all the way up. (see first photo)
This is the rectangle frame layout (above), and my little helper standing by, ready to eat some dirt or throw nails down into the footings.
Step 6: Do the math
I basically figured out that a 13-15 degree overhanging wall that is 12‘ tall will overhang the base by apporx. 3’ or so (about 3” for every 1’ of rise). But making a triangle with this narrow of a base would not work. So I basically widened the base to about 8’.
Step 7: Dig your footings
You’ll need to dig four holes. Using your framers square and string line (or math) make an 8’ x 8’ square. Then mark those 4 corner points. I use marking paint. You’ll be sinking your wood (2x6s and 4x6s) about 18-22” into the ground. This will vary as you level up your structure later. I tend to start by digging the footing wide at the top and narrow it down at the base (steps). Allow room for the rebar that will pierce the wood – it has to be wide enough. I think I overdug mine, but I don’t want this sucker to have much sway, and I’m putting it in sandy soil. I put gravel/small rocks at the bottom for drainage to keep the wood off the soil so it doesn’t soak up water after rains.
The stepped down footing (above)
Step 8: Build and lift your A-Frame
Drill a 5/8” hole 16” down from the top of your 2x6s and pop in your bolt and finger tighten the nut (see photo). This will act as a HINGE. The legs need to be able to move so that as you lift the wall, they move with it. Stand your wall. If you have lots of friends, you can put your plywood on first and then have them help lift it. If you’re short on friends, you can stand the wall sans plywood, brace it with 2x4s, then after you get it up (har har) then slide in the 7” bolt at the top and stick the 4x6s into the holes. You can add the plywood later. However you do it, your goal is to take the A-Frame, spread the legs and put it in the hole (another har har). Then level it up. Use gravel to add height to whatever post that needs a lift. When you’re done, all four legs will be in the footings and the A-Frame will be level.
(Above) This is the hinge bolt.
Step 9: Cement
Mix it with water (read the bag if you’re clueless) and pour it in the hole. You don’t want soup. You want semi-dry oatmeal texture. Take a stick, rebar, or shovel and tamp it and get rid of dry pockets. Let it dry for at least 24 hours. (add initials and date?)
Here is some eye candy for you ladies (much sarcasm)
Step 10: Finishing touches
Add on the mid-supports (2x4s) about mid-way down the 2x6 edge of the wall (see drawing). Add more cement if needed to flush off the footings. Add holes. Put the plywood on with screws (maybe tack it on with a hammer and about 6 nails first, then screw on). Add your holds. I got about 28 holds (mainly mini-jugs) 50 Tee nuts for about $225 at Nicros. I’ll add more later, but this will get me up and moving. You can make cheap holds out of wood, rocks, etc. Be creative.
Anyway, there you go! Take it or leave it you bums. And let me be the first to say it… 'cause I know someone else will... Slater has a woody!
Feel free to send me your favorite hold off your home gym!
|
|
NotIt
Trad climber
Malaga Cove
|
|
|
Jul 13, 2009 - 02:05pm PT
|
+1 for all the good info
Please make the pictures work!
|
|
PhotogEC
climber
|
|
|
Jul 13, 2009 - 04:57pm PT
|
Some serious sweat equity on this one, Slater. Thanks for the pics.
I find this, and some of the other recent/resurrected threads on home walls/off-width machines to be very timely as me and my neighbor are jointly putting one up right now.
Great stuff!
|
|
L
climber
Nowhere in particular...and I'm going back soon...
|
|
|
Jul 13, 2009 - 05:03pm PT
|
Thanks for the eye-candy, Slater!
But I have to be honest with you...you had to work waaaaaaaaay too hard for that woody! ;-)
|
|
Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
|
|
|
Jul 13, 2009 - 05:21pm PT
|
Heh heh. L and I are on the same (bad) wave length! I was almost afraid at what this how-to thread was going to look like when I clicked on the thread!
In all seriousness, very cool. Let us see it in action...The climbing woody that is.
|
|
Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
|
|
|
Jul 13, 2009 - 06:33pm PT
|
I have a bunch of holds I'd be happy to donate but I'll want more than a few months memembership. I'll even bring good beer.
|
|
micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
|
|
|
Jul 13, 2009 - 06:45pm PT
|
well done!
|
|
Barcus
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, Ca.
|
|
|
Jul 13, 2009 - 07:19pm PT
|
Oh S%*T, My Bad!
I was just gonna offer you a hand with yer woody!
LOL let me know if you need any help.
Marcus
|
|
Boltgrl
Ice climber
Winslow, AZ
|
|
|
Jul 13, 2009 - 07:40pm PT
|
heck, even I can follow this. i've been looking for the cheap, simple way to do this... it's hard being female and constructionally inept.
thanks a bunch!!!!!1111111
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2009 - 12:02am PT
|
L and Crimprgirl = bad girls!
Just what every climber guy is looking for, ha ha.
Roxy, we gotta hang, you're local, so when you want an insider tour of south county let me know! A few crags are NOT on the radar and worthy... very worthy.
Yes, I'll have some action shots... once my HOLDS COME!
Can't wait!
T
|
|
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2009 - 04:03pm PT
|
Getting a lot of use out of it! I "discovered" Atomik climbing holds and they are totally rad. I was stoked on the texture and shapes. Now if I can keep the freakin' dogs off my mattresses...
|
|
| Messages 1 - 11 of total 11 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!