How to interpret climbing to the average Yosemite visitor?

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Panacea82

Trad climber

Yosemite, CA

Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 9, 2009 - 09:32pm PT

I'm an interpretive naturalist here in Yosemite and a beginning big wall climber, I was recently asked to develop and hour long evening program about any topic that I find interesting, naturally I chose climbing. I am finding it hard to condense into one hour what I would like the average Yosemite visitor (aka touron) to understand about climbing. So I would love to ask the people of the Yosemite climbing community what they would like the average Yosemite visitor to understand most.
Areas I am definitely going to cover is the history of climbing (brief history maybe 10 min), history of Yosemite climbing (10 min maybe 15 min), how the technology has advanced (10 min) then........??????? Any ideas on what I should cover for the remanding 30 or so min of my program. My program theme is that Yosemite's walls tell stories. I was thinking about talking about the geology of climbing then leading into the mindset of a Yosemite big wall climber and maybe do some interviews and get clips from experienced big wall climbers. If anyone has a topic that they feel needs to be interpreted to the Yosemite visitor please share.

P.S: Tom if your out there what is the most asked questions you get about big wall climbing?

Mighty Hiker

Social climber

Vancouver, B.C.

Jul 9, 2009 - 09:36pm PT

There is a book called "How Do They Get the Rope Up There, Anyway?", which may even be available in the Valley. By a well-known Valley climber (Mark Blanchard) and a Valley climber nad naturalist (Kathy Myers). Kathy posts here as EKat, and would probably be able to help you.

You could also talk with climbing ranger Jesse McGahey, who sometimes is seen on SuperTopo, or the Yosemite Climbing Association - Ken Yager, or perhaps Dave Evans (el cap pics), of the "Ask a Climber" program on El Cap bridge.

Panacea82

Trad climber

Yosemite, CA

Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2009 - 09:49pm PT

Thanks for the quick reply, all of those sound like great resources, I did not know about the book out called "How do they get the rope up there".
I have a vast amount of resources here its just a matter of what to talk about. If it where my choice I would have a 3 hour presentation and cover all the aspects of climbing from A to Z but I only have an hour so I ask other than the basic history of climbing in general and history of Yosemite climbing what would you think would be the most interesting to hear about as a visitor not knowing anything about climbing?

Captain...or Skully

Social climber

way, WAY out there....(OMG)

Jul 9, 2009 - 09:53pm PT

It's fun to get to that scary spot.....I'm not sure why....

Peter Haan

Trad climber

San Francisco, CA

Jul 9, 2009 - 10:16pm PT

Panacea, Tom (Elcap-pics) is gone for a bit. He is great and has been working with exactly this same subject at the bridge and I think he also was a teacher before he retired. If you are trying to get something scraped together immediately it is going to take a bit more effort but you can do it. Your main effort will be to contain yourself. Tourists are forgiving and thrilled to be talked to; don’t think you are standing in front of the Valley Masters.

Don’t take three hours. You should consider one hour segments which apparently is your slot. Nobody can do three hours especially on vacation. Try an hour. Even in corporate, if you exceed two hours you are a fool.

Pan, you can’t say it all. Obviously you are a junior character and want to embrace the entire phenomenon but that would take one hell of a long time. Over time you will have your day.

Mighty Hiker is a Canadian attorney, a very long term excellent climber and always reliable. His advise is solid.

Before the ants crawl in on this thread, just consider covering the basic process of climbing ( I assume you know what that is as you say you are a “beginning wall climber”) and a few tiny stories that might show history and be happy to do just that. I would emphasize how safe climbing actually is statistically compared to regular activities such as driving and flying rather than it be this inane sport where people die daily.

Have fun. Have fun, you will be in your strongest place.

Mighty Hiker

Social climber

Vancouver, B.C.

Jul 9, 2009 - 10:25pm PT

Jesse is at jesse_mcgahey@nps.gov or (209) 372-0360.

Ken Yager of the YCA is at yager@inreach.com or (209) 379-2302 (El Portal).

Chiloe

Trad climber

Lee, NH

Jul 9, 2009 - 10:38pm PT

I'll plug eKat's book for her:

So ... How Does the Rope Get Up There Anyway?, currently sale-priced at $6, buy a stack of 'em.

http://www.mountain-n-air.com/So_How_Does_the_Rope_Get_Up_There_Anyway_p/9781879415171.htm

Scared Silly

Trad climber

Jul 9, 2009 - 10:42pm PT

Here are couple of thoughts:

Try to dispel the myths - climbers have a death wish, are dare devils, etc. Just let folks were are just a bunch maladjusted geeks who you would not want to date your daughters.

More seriously - there are some climbers with impressive backgrounds folks like Bill Shockley who invented the transistor. Henry Kendall, who was awarded the Nobel Prize in Physics. Then there is the dirt bag, who pounded iron and ate rats that founded a clothing company called Patagucci and gives 1% of the gross profits back to environmental causes.

One of my favorite topics, besides how do you get the rope up there, is how do go to the bathroom?

Talk about some the speed records. 4 hours it is pretty impressive no matter who does it. Contrast that with the early ascents that took weeks.

Discuss being prepared to weather out storms - then transition that into going hiking and being prepared for crappy weather. Remind folks that while rescues occur that far more time and money is spend searching for lost hikers than climbers.

john hansen

climber

Jul 9, 2009 - 11:20pm PT

I think you could expand the history portion. From the Alps to Clyde to Underhill to the Higer Cathedral Spire and all, but to me the evolution of climbing is the most interesting.

People doing what was previosly thought impossible.

Robbins, Sherrick, Gallwas, Half Dome

Nose in a day

Barber, free solo on Steck Salathe

Bacher, free solo Nabisco wall

Croft, free solo Astroman

Bacher and Croft, El Cap / Half Dome in a Day

Lynn Hill, FFA, Nose. Then, free in a day

Tommy Caldwell, Salathe and the Nose free in a day

Nose speed records,

Alex Honnold(sp?) Free solo half dome.

I know there are endless others that could be added but all these events made people go, "Wow"

Captain...or Skully

Social climber

way, WAY out there....(OMG)

Jul 9, 2009 - 11:56pm PT

Chouniard is STILL my favorite dirtbag.

WBraun

climber

Jul 10, 2009 - 12:14am PT

"How to interpret climbing to the average Yosemite visitor?"

Tell them they came to the wrong place ......

Captain...or Skully

Social climber

way, WAY out there....(OMG)

Jul 10, 2009 - 12:26am PT

Pretty much....

Jaybro

Social climber

Wolf City, Wyoming

Jul 10, 2009 - 12:31am PT

Interestingly enough we have a surplus of resources. There are at least two books with the 'how do they get the ropes up there ?' theme. Ekat's book and an I think earlier one by Dingus McGee (his birthday was yesterday, search the taco for my pertinent thread!) and the Last Pioneer woman ( Hollis Mariott, you cool with me outing you, Hollis?)

Now I'm going to that other link and buying Ekath's book!

jstan

climber

Jul 10, 2009 - 12:58am PT

I think the one thing that needs to be avoided initially is showing climbers on a
wall. They have no way to relate to this. There has to be something to which
they can relate. You might consider having several devices available with hand
cracks in them. If you can get people to put their hands in they will be amazed
at how secure this feels. Then if they can also use the hand jam to move up
onto a step they will experience upward motion. That feeling is the hook to end
all hooks.

You will face a daunting amount of diversity. If you can get each person
interested, even if for only a minute or two you will have suceeded.

You will probably have to work through and test several different presentations.
Get data and feedback.

Everyone will share one thing. They all love Yosemite.

Rhodo-Router

Gym climber

a greasy pinscar near you

Jul 10, 2009 - 01:38am PT

A few years back one YI'er was known to take her crew out to El Cap meadow and model a multipitch climb with students at each belay, serving as haulbags, etc. But that's not an evening program.

I think the idea of serial mindblowing advances has some promise. Progression is interesting. Merely stating that climbing the Nose in 4:22 is fast doesn't mean much until you contextualize it in terms of the months required for the FA.

Maybe explain how people climb for different reasons: besides the obvious daredevil/death wish, some like the view, the workout, the partnership, getting out there...

The fact that climbing continues to play a role in visitation to Yosemite, and that climbing in Yosemite continues to play a role in the world of climbing, is pretty cool. Trends get swapped back and forth like spit at a spin-the-bottle party.