John Bachar timeline 1957-2009

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Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 8, 2009 - 09:47pm PT
John Bachar timeline (emphasis on his climbing achievements)

1957 - born
1971 - started climbing - Stoney Point - age 14 - bouldered with Bob Kamps - he could do 2 pullups at this point
1973 - first climb at Joshua Tree - Mike's Books 5.6 - w/ high school pole vaulting teammate Mike Ransom - age 16 - he could do 27 pullups at this point
1974 - FFA of Black Harlot's Layaway 5.11d w/ Tobin Sorenson - Tahquitz
1974 - FA of Short But Thin 5.11b w/ Tobin Sorenson
1974 - FFA of Rixon's Pinnacle South Face 5.11d w/ Tobin Sorenson
1975? - set record for his high school in the pole vault
1975 - FFA of Free Blast 5.11b w/ Kauk, Bridwell, Long, Worrall and Graham
1975/5 - FFA of Astroman 5.11c w/ Ron Kauk and John Long
1975 - FFA(except for start) of Tips 5.11d A0 w/ Ron Kauk
1975 - FFA of Hotline 5.12a w/ Ron Kauk - first recognized 5.12 in Yosemite. John said recently that he thought Overhang Overpass might have been the first 5.12 in Yosemite.
1975 - free solo New Dimensions 5.11a
1970s - 5th or 6th ascent of The Shield; 3rd ascent of Tangerine Trip
1975? - free solo of Double Cross 5.8 w/ John Long - Joshua Tree
1975? - 3rd ascent of Naked Edge 5.11b w/ Tobin Sorenson w/ some falls
1976 - dropped out of UCLA after one year - wanted to become the best climber in the world
1976 - FA of Gait of Power 5.11d w/ Ron Kauk
1976? - Colorado bouldering tour with John Long and John Gill
1976 - elbow tendinitis - unable to climb as hard as before (probably recurred in later years)
1977 - Yosemite plane crash scavenging - bought a car
1977+ - guided in Estes Park CO for Fantasy Ridge
1977 - FFA of D7 on the Diamond onsight w/ Richard Harrison
1978/3 - FFA(TR) of Leave It To Beaver 5.11d - Joshua Tree
1978/5 - FFA(TR) of Equinox 5.12d - Joshua Tree
1978 - FA of Caliente 5.12b - Suicide - possibly the hardest pure face climb in CA at that time
1978 - second ascent of Midnight Lightning, after working with Kauk on the FA
1978 - FFA of D1 on the Diamond w/ Bill Westbay
1978 - FFA of The Wisdom 5.11d - Eldorado
1978 - FFA of West Owl Direct aka Silly Putty 5.11+ R - Estes Park
1978 - Nose speed record - 15 hours w/ Mike Lechlinski http://www.speedclimb.com/yosemite/thenose.htm
1979 - FL of Leave It To Beaver 5.11d - Joshua Tree
1979 - solo groundfall from Clever Lever 5.12a - swung further out than expected without rope drag
1979 - free solo Nabisco Wall - Waverley Wafer 5.10c - Butterballs 5.11c - Butterfingers 5.11a
1980/3 - FA(TR) of Baby Apes 5.12b - Joshua Tree
1980 - close call during onsight free solo of The Moratorium 5.11b - (was rated 5.10d) - wanted to downclimb but unable - gave up onsight 5.11 solos after this
1980 - started playing saxaphone - self-taught
1980? - 7-Up commercial with Bridwell - $30k
1980? - featured on "That's Incredible" (TV show) - clip: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=03udLvtNR6Y
1980? - competed in "Survival of the Fittest" competition on NBC "Sports World", which took place partly in Yosemite and included several Yosemite climbers and other athletes. Mike Hoover was involved in producing this.
1980? - Nose speed record - 12 hours w/ Mike Lechlinski (not listed on Hans' site - maybe check climbing magazines?)
1981 - FA of Chasin' The Trane; Frankenjura - thought to be the first 5.13 in Germany at the time, but now rated 5.12d (7c), during International Free-Climbing Meet
1981/6 - FA of Black Magic 5.11c R - Tuolumne w/ Alan Bartlett
1981/7 - FA of Goldfinger 5.12a - Tuolumne
1981/7 - FA of Body and Soul 5.12 R - Tuolumne w/ Mike Lechlinski
1981/8 - FA of Bachar-Yerian 5.11c R - Tuolumne w/ Dave Yerian
1981 - issued $10,000 challenge for anyone to follow him on a day of soloing in Tuolumne Meadows - no takers
1982 - Miguel Angel Gallego gave him a pair Boreal (Spain) Fire shoes
1982 - formed Sole Survivor with Mike Graham - distributed Boreal climbing shoes - $65k/year
1982 - FA of Movement in Camouflage 5.10d R - Tuolumne
1982? - FFA of Bombs Over Tokyo 5.12b/d? R - Tuolumne
1982 - FA of Tunnel Vision 5.12d
1982 - FA of Moongerms 5.11d w/ Werner Braun
1982 - FA(TR) of Acid Crack 5.12d - Joshua Tree
1982 - free soloing in Joshua Tree - Hot Rocks, Spider Line, Leave it to Beaver, More Monkey than Funkey, Baby Apes
1982 - FL (free solo) of Baby Apes 5.12b - Joshua Tree
1982 - married Brenda Lugo
1983 - FA(TR) of Moonbeam Crack 5.12d - Joshua Tree
1983 - FL of Acid Crack 5.12d - Joshua Tree
1983 - Rolling Stone article (28 April) - "Valley boys" by Trip Gabriel - transcription: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=244379
1983 - Gillette shaving commercial - $38k
1983 - FA of The Promise 5.11b R w/ Dale Bard
1984 - FA of The Believer 5.12a
1984 - Life Magazine article (September) - "The ultimate dare - solo rock climbers in Yosemite, John Bachar, Ron Kauk"
1985 - FAs of The Kid 5.11b R, The Pinhead 5.10c R, and Here's Johnny 5.10d R - Tuolumne w/ Kurt Smith
1985 - free solo Father Figure 5.13a - Joshua Tree
1986 - FA of The Phantom 5.13a R
1986 - Nose speed record - 10:05 w/ Peter Croft
1986 - linked The Nose and Half Dome NW Face in 14 hours w/ Peter Croft
1988 - punch incident at Camp 4 parking lot after Cottage Dome project was rap bolted and bolt hangers flattened on Arch Rock
1990 - separated from Brenda Lugo
1990 - Foresta house burned down in forest fire - after building permit hassles, sold land and moved to Mammoth Lakes
1991 - free solo The Gift 5.12c - Red Rocks
1996 - son Tyrus Bachar born with Val
2000 - stopped working for Sole Survivor/Boreal
2003 - formed Acopa International LLC with Dario Piana and Steve Karafa
2006 - car accident where Steve Karafa died (was not wearing seat belt). Bachar was driving and fractured 5 neck vertebrae; had intermittent weakness in one hand/arm. Anastasia Frangos survived this obviously traumatic accident.
2009 - died in soloing fall near Mammoth Lakes; CA

Single best source: Duane Raleigh's "Being Bachar", Rock and Ice #166
http://www.rockandice.com/inthemag.php?id=10&type=featart
Another useful source was his radio interview in Boulder, April 2009.
http://www.archive.org/details/completebachar


I constructed this because I felt the obituaries which have appeared so far have focused on his free soloing, to the neglect of his many other climbing achievements.
This probably contains some errors and omissions. Thanks to everyone who posted in this thread with corrections and additions. [last edited: 5/04/2012].

Mike Graham's memorial thread for John Bachar:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=896012
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jul 8, 2009 - 09:55pm PT
Thanks Clint, earlier today i was thinking that we needed something like this.
Probably a few corrections to come, like the 1984 Life™ magazine article. Prolly more, but they are just details.

Really nice work, Clint!
HighDesertDJ

Trad climber
Arid-zona
Jul 8, 2009 - 09:59pm PT
It's so nuts what he was doing after clmibing only 4 years. Amazing.
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
the ground up
Jul 8, 2009 - 10:08pm PT
Didn't he have more FAs after '90 ? (Owens Gorge, Clark Canyon etc) I'd like to see more climbing details for those last years in the timeline .
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jul 8, 2009 - 10:09pm PT
he wasn't like the rest of us...
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Jul 8, 2009 - 10:14pm PT
That's awesome Clint. I was thinking something like that would be cool to see. What a run!!!

Four years... yeah...you have to figure he gloriously found what he was meant to do on this earth.
We should all be so lucky.
rick d

climber
tucson, az
Jul 8, 2009 - 10:33pm PT
clint- the essence of shaving commercial, that's incredible, and all the rest of the pop culture stuff too!
wildone

climber
GHOST TOWN
Jul 8, 2009 - 10:35pm PT
You should insert that on Jan 2007, he met me in Joshua Tree, and we chatted. Influenced me, for sure.
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
Jul 8, 2009 - 10:40pm PT
He put up some great routes on the Eastside too. There's one up at Dexter Canyon that I've always been interested in. The usual Bachar stuff, a few bolts and likely sandbagged.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jul 8, 2009 - 11:11pm PT
I always thought Moongerms, Love Supreme, Body & Soul were among the coolest looking Bachar routes.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jul 8, 2009 - 11:13pm PT
What about the 7-up commercial?
chez

Social climber
chicago ill
Jul 8, 2009 - 11:15pm PT
Sandbagging yes, but Bachar knew how to grade routes, an art that is being mistreated these days.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jul 8, 2009 - 11:20pm PT
"Before I climb 10,000 feeties, I ALWAYS eat my Wheaties!"
chez

Social climber
chicago ill
Jul 8, 2009 - 11:28pm PT
I had you pegged as a Wheaties man! Would look good on the box too.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jul 8, 2009 - 11:41pm PT
But they gave the commercial to Bachar.
WHY ???

I was in the try outs, along with a host of gay guys wearing woodsman like costumes, but like with corduroy short shorts & flannel, trying to look like climbers.

Largo must've been doing the screening, cuz he tells me later:
"Ho man, you should lay off the PIPE before auditions."

I had Pink Eye, for real.
No way to cover that up.

So they gave it to BACHAR fer chrissakes.
(prolly a good call)
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jul 8, 2009 - 11:46pm PT
a more complete Yosemite FA and FFA list?

Short but Thin 5.11b FA 1974 Tobin Sorenson, John Bachar
Rixon's Pinnacle, South Face 5.8 A2 FA 1948 Chuck Wilts, Ellen Wilts; 5.11d FFA 1974 Tobin Sorenson, John Bachar
Pinky Paralysis 5.11c FA 1975 John Bachar, Jim Bridwell
Preface 5.11b FA 1975 John Bachar, Tobin Sorenson
Tips FA 1975 John Bachar, Ron Kauk; 5.12a FFA 1985 Jonny Woodward, Ron Kauk
Short but Thick 5.11a FA 1975 Kevin Worrall, John Bachar, Ed Barry
Free Blast 5.11b FA 1975 Jim Bridwell, John Long, Kevin Worrall, Mike Graham, John Bachar, Ron Kauk
Washington Column, East Face (Astroman) 5.9 A3 FA 1959 Warren Harding, Glen Denny, Chuck Pratt; 5.11c FFA 1975 John Bachar, John Long, Ron Kauk
Hotline FA 1973 Jim Bridwell, Mark Chapman; 5.12a FFA 1975 Ron Kauk, John Bachar
Gait of Power 5.11d FA 1976 Ron Kauk, John Bachar
666 5.12c FA 1980 Dave Schultz, John Bachar
Le Bachar 5.11b FA 1982 John Bachar, Mike Lichlinski, Mari Gingery
Moongerms 5.11d FA 1982 John Bachar, Werner Braun
Tunnel Vision 5.12d FA 1982 John Bachar
Isotope 5.11d FA 1983 John Bachar, Dimitri Barton, Ron Kauk, Werner Braun
Omakara 5.12b FA 1983 John Bachar
The Promise 5.11b FA 1983 John Bachar, Dimitri Barton
The Believer 5.12a FA 1984 John Bachar
Inchworm 5.11b FA 1984 John Bachar, Rick Cashner
Nightmare Continuation 5.11d FA 1984 John Bachar, Rick Cashner
Fasten Your Seat Belts 5.10d FA 1985 John Bachar, Rick Cashner
Free Ride 5.10a FA 1985 John Bachar, Rick Cashner
Headhunter 5.10- FA 1985 John Bachar, Rick Cashner
Opposition 5.11d FA 1985 John Bachar, Werner Braun
Dale's Pin Job 5.13 FA 1986 John Bachar
Phantom 5.13a FA 1986 John Bachar
The Remnant, Center Route 5.12a FA 1986 John Bachar
John's Ring Job (Bachar's Ring Job) 5.11d FA 1989 John Bachar, Ron Kauk
WBraun

climber
Jul 9, 2009 - 12:08am PT
Tips First ascent was Charlie Porter on aid solo.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jul 9, 2009 - 12:21am PT
early JT FAs

Candelabra F10 1972, John Bachar, Oliver Moon
Left Ski Track Direct F12 1973, John Long, John Bachar
That F11 1974, Mike Graham, John Bachar
Deep Throat F9 1975, John Bachar, Tobin Sorenson, Bill Antel, Craig Parsley
Spiderman F10 1975, John Long, John Bachar
Hands Down F12 1976, John Bachar
Sympathy to the Devil F10 1976, John Bachar
Desert Song F12 1977, John Bachar
Goldenbush Corner F12 1977, John Bachar


Only 1 Suicide FA?

Flakes of Wrath, 5.10+, 1975, John Bachar, Gib Lewis, Wilson, John Long, Eriksson, Tobin Sorenson
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jul 9, 2009 - 12:25am PT
Jaybro's got my Tuolumne Guide, so I don't have a way of listing those FAs right now.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Jul 9, 2009 - 12:26am PT
hey there say, clint... this will especially nice for his son...

very nice...
say, thanks for sharing here...
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jul 9, 2009 - 12:36am PT
John had elbow/tendinitis problems at least as early as 1976. When I met him in the Valley that autumn, he was laid up from it, and couldn't go climbing. He wouldn't even do Bishop's Terrace. He played a lot of chess that year.

At the time, I'd never heard of tendinitis, so it stuck in my memory.

Perhaps he had intermittent or chronic tendinitis, like so many climbers?
dickcilley

Social climber
Wisteria Ln.
Jul 9, 2009 - 12:39am PT
666,.12c is a Skip Guerin route.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2009 - 12:54am PT
Thanks for all the corrections and updates!! Especially the Nose speed record(s), which I finally found on Hans' site after looking earlier. (Hans has it at 15 hours in 1978 for Bachar and Lechlinski; maybe they did it again in 12 hours in 1980/81?) I'm off to the Valley; will return in a few days and hope to find more corrections when I get back (will add Joshua Tree FAs to the list, too). John did a lot! (we knew that, and we also know that a simple list misses a lot of the details, but it's a start) :-)
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jul 9, 2009 - 01:33am PT
What and when was John's first route in the Valley? That is, climb with a rope?

Edit: Clint, your excerpt doesn't seem to mention John's first Valley climb, but does mention his first at Tahquitz. I wonder who the friend's sister's boyfriend who'd been on Everest was?
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2009 - 01:48am PT
Anders,

From the "Being Bachar" article linked:
---


Bachar grew up in Westchester, California, best known as the home of LAX. He read Maurice Herzog's Annapurna and The White Spider by Heinrich Harrer and was instantly sold on climbing despite knowing virtually nothing about the sport. A high-school buddy, Mike Ransom, who pole vaulted on the track team with Bachar, had a sister who was dating a guy who had climbed Everest, elevating him to hero status for Bachar and Ransom.

"We asked to see his gear," says Bachar, "but he wouldn't even talk to us."

Bachar and Ransom bouldered at L.A.'s Stoney Point, then hit Joshua Tree or Tahquitz on weekends. "We did Mike's Books (5.6) with helmets and everything," says Bachar. "Total newbies." At Josh, Bachar met Mike Graham, Tobin Sorenson and Dean "Bullwinkle" Fidelman. "Those guys were way serious about climbing," Bachar recalls, "going to Yosemite during spring break and hanging there all summer."
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Jul 9, 2009 - 01:51am PT
From Marty's Owens River Guidebook:

Me So Horny 12 FA Bachar, Cashner 89
Skin Tight 12c FA Bachar 89
Malcolm X 12b FA Erik Eriksson, Bachar, Bill McChesney 92
Stardate 5.9 FA Bachar 91 (I suspect solo FA since bolts were Strassman's?)
Vulcan Jock Itch FA 10a Bachar 92 (same?)
Pick Pocket 11a FA Bachar, Cashner 88 (which, btw, is a stellar route!)




Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Jul 9, 2009 - 02:32am PT
Nice work Clint.

You offer so many unique contributions to the community.

Ed too. Thanks for the spheres where you collect and organize important (or merely interesting) data

Peace

Karl
Fletcher

Trad climber
the end of the world as we know it, & I feel fine.
Jul 9, 2009 - 03:37am PT
Thanks Clint. This provides another perspective and scale to who John was.

Eric
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Jul 9, 2009 - 10:34am PT
List I chucked together quickly the other day...

Bachar-Yerian (5.11c). Tuolumne
Ummagumma (V7), Stoney Point
Caliente (12c), Suicide
The Chameleon (12b R), Sentinel, JT
So High (V5 R), JTree
Tips (5.11 A0), Yosemite
Skin Tight (12c), ORG
Malcolm X (12b), ORG
Pumping Monzonite (V7), JTree
Hotline (12a), Yosemite
Astroman (11c), Yosemite
Pick Pocket (11a), ORG
Driving South (11d), Mt. Woodson
Hear My Train A Comin’ (11c/d C1), Mt. Woodson
Flakes of Wrath (10c R), Suicide
Leave It To Beaver (12a), JTree
JBMFP (V5), JTree
All Washed Up (V6 R), JTree
Stem Gem (V4), JTree
Big Moe (11a/b R), JTree
Baby Apes (12c), JTree
More Monkey Than Funky (11b), JTree
Planet X (V6 R), JTree
Slashface (V3), JTree
Hot Rocks (11b), JTree
Desert Song (11b R), JTree
Gunsmoke (V3), JTree
Bebop Tango (11a), JTree
The Wisdom (11d R), Eldorado Canyon
FFA D7 (5.11), Diamond, Long’s Peak
FFA D1 (12a), Diamond, Long’s Peak
Rankin

climber
North Carolina
Jul 9, 2009 - 10:42am PT
Thanks for the list. Jesus. What a prolific career. I didn't know about JBs historic ascents of the Diamond.
nate23

Trad climber
c-ville, virginia
Jul 9, 2009 - 12:42pm PT
when was that iconic solo picture of the gift in red rocks taken?
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Jul 9, 2009 - 01:13pm PT
There's a powerful biography to be written here, not just about the climbs but the life that connected them, all the way to the end.

More than one author will try; I hope at least one does it justice.
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 9, 2009 - 01:17pm PT
Don't forget:

"Chasin' the Train" and "Gill Swing" in Frankenjura from his 1981 trip there.

Both rated "IX" on the UIAA scale in the current guidebook (and the spelling is correct to boot). About 5.12d.

Can't recall the name of the route in the Verdon Gorge.

-Brian
Doug Robinson

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Jul 9, 2009 - 01:33pm PT
I hope Largo will consider writing John's bio. He's got a lot of writing mojo recent years, and he was there for some of the big chapters.

I was feeling grateful the other day for Michael Reardon's nice video about John. Besides the footage you expected, it was intriguing to see his father and what he had to say.

How about a CD of John cranking on the sax? I never got to hear him play...


And: a big thanks to Clint and Ed and Dave for the timelines. Hard to wrap my head around all that John did.
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
Jul 9, 2009 - 01:44pm PT
You could probably cut and paste a pretty sweet biography just from this site in a couple of hours time.

Bachar put up classics and when it came to bolts he made a statement. Those routes still speak.
Nate Smith

climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 9, 2009 - 02:21pm PT
John put up 5 climbs in Frankenjura in 1981:

Metamorphose 8+ or 5.12a/b
Strohdach 9- or 5.12b/c (Super popular) Was just out there last month.
Chasin the Trane 9 or 5.12d
Sonderprüfung (Toehook) 8+ or 5.12a/b
Gill Swing 9- or 5.12b/c
can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
Jul 9, 2009 - 02:49pm PT
I was there when he did the FA of Acid Crack. Simply amazing to me at the time
Scared Silly

Trad climber
UT
Jul 9, 2009 - 03:50pm PT
Swelly, thanks for the link. That was a very descent obit by the writer.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jul 9, 2009 - 04:24pm PT
Definitely need that Tuolumne FA list as a standalone document.

I have the Reid & Falkenstein book sitting here; but no way I'm going to attempt to feed that information through my voice-activated cheese grater. Ha.

I imagine you guys & gals with the OCR(?)
Or whatever that fancy software is, will stitch that together in a wee bit here...
aldude

climber
Monument Manor
Jul 9, 2009 - 04:42pm PT
What an awesome resume - a few notes :

The only route John ever rated 5.13 was Bombs Over Tokyo. Unrepeated !!

Chameleon on The Sentinel in Josh was established by Paul Borne (ground up, onsight of course). John had toproped the route and when Paul asked if he could lead it John said " just do it in good style ". John toproped a lot of new routes but always considered the onsight lead the prouder accomplishment and would defer to aspiring leaders of his topropes - such as Blackout in Tuolumne to Kurt Smith.

John was a master stance driller and many of his FAs such as Johnny Rock and The Believer were testiments to this now dying art. John had the first Bosch Bulldog I had ever seen and used it only from one handed stances. Routes done in this style included Bulldog Arete 12a @ The Lions Den and One Armed Bandit 11c @ The Peanut Gallery In Tuolumne. The latter was the only FA I shared with John... imagine our dismay when this killer route (the first one on the wall)was pronounced " too short " and summarily chopped !
lostinshanghai

Social climber
someplace
Jul 9, 2009 - 04:56pm PT


May 1977. Can not recall but he said something about this and climbing were related.

dfrost7

Social climber
Jul 9, 2009 - 05:03pm PT
For me, he will always be the James Brown of climbing.

"I got soul, and I'm super-bad"














I can not absorb this. Rest in peace dear John.




Laurie
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Jul 9, 2009 - 05:06pm PT
As the above begins to show, John's legacy is far more than just a bold and groundbreaking free-soloist. John's FAs and FFAs of routes and boulder problems is more than impressive. During the 1970s and early 1980s his roped ascents were remarkable.

But even beyond his climbing resume, John brought a new sensibility to rock climbing and in the process changed the direction of the "sport." John was a superb athlete and one of the early proponents of specialized training for climbing. I remember him telling me that climbers had barely begun to explore the limits of difficulty and that compared to Olympic level gymnasts, climbers were (at the time) weak and unsophisticated.

He spent a lot of time devising training regiments and the results were more than apparent -- both in John's climbing and in the acceptance of training as part of serious climbing.

Clint's List should include:

The FFA (TR) and subsequent lead of Leave It To Beaver in 1978. Later, John would use the route for training, doing laps on his "Bachar Ladder" strung to the side of the route, between laps on the climb. An impressive, powerful and influential image considering 5.12 was cutting edge at the time.

The Beaver was iconic of the new generation of serious climbers and as much as any route, on most European climber's must do list.

Acid Crack was and remains an impressive FA and lead. Moonbeam Crack and Baby Apes are just a few other seminal routes at Josh that as much as anything made Joshua Tree a destination crag.

I've posted this in John's memorial thread, but I was fortunate enough to be able to shoot John's first lead of Acid Crack. The control of John's movement is difficult to describe.


First Lead of Acid Crack, Joshua Tree
tolman_paul

Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
Jul 9, 2009 - 05:17pm PT
It would be interesting to also add the various tv shorts about John. I have a copy of a video of him soloing oz. That's actually how I'd gotten into correspondence with John as he said he'd be trying for years to get a copy of that as his had burned up in the fire and nobody he knew had a copy and apparently the studio couldn't find the original. So I had it converted to dvd and sent it to him. There was a short bit of him playing his sax in the meadows at the end, but unfortunately my monther had taped over that bit.

I'll have to post it up on youtube.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jul 9, 2009 - 05:27pm PT
Lost, was that a 'Great moment in baseball'?
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jul 9, 2009 - 05:29pm PT
FA of Equinox, JT, on TR?
Sole Fusion 12a, JT circa '83, a real beauty & early ground up (how else?) Bosch? route.
(um, as I recall...saw the bolts go in, so ...might be true)
aldude

climber
Monument Manor
Jul 9, 2009 - 05:56pm PT
Walter....John in his typical 2 letter grade sandbag style thought the Phantom 12d X and had to siege to get the critical #5 crux stopper and then test it from the ground. I doubt this route has ever been redpointed.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jul 9, 2009 - 06:04pm PT
I'm with you on that, Sewlly, a few misplaced details, but a well done piece that gets to the heart of it.
Gilberto

Social climber
La Crescenta, CA
Jul 9, 2009 - 06:14pm PT
John Bachar 2009 --

John, free of his 51 years old body will now climb forever. Free as always.
Wherever you touch stone you will fill his presence, and if you don't, listen close for the jazzy saxophone sounds blowing in the wind...

Studly

Trad climber
WA
Jul 9, 2009 - 06:31pm PT
Someone earlier suggested a book about the life of John Bachar. Seems like there is one guy that would fit the bill to write that book. John Long, who not only has the climbing gift but the ability to put it into words.
Ottawa Doug

Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
Jul 9, 2009 - 08:20pm PT
Thanks to all of you for the amazing history/bio.

Cheers,

Doug
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jul 9, 2009 - 08:40pm PT
lostinshanghai

check this thread:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=478749&msg=478996#msg478996

and the story of Pinky Paralysis
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=478749&msg=478863#msg478863

which refers to the story told here:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=359309&msg=359408#msg359408

probably not if the picture was 1977, the story took place in 1975...
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jul 9, 2009 - 08:51pm PT
wierdly, I still half expect John to post up here and correct the errors in our history... but that won't happen...

Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jul 9, 2009 - 11:06pm PT
The other recent threads about John, for cross-referencing:

John Bachar – In Memory of a Great Man (1957 – 2009): http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=896012

My dad, a great man.....will be missed.: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=896157

Very bad free solo accident at Dike Wall: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=895790

John Bachar Memorial Fund, For Tyrus.: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=896423

Is there a gathering planned for John Bachar yet?: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=897042

Thank You, Friends of John Bachar: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=898719

I thought it might be helpful to have references on this thread.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jul 9, 2009 - 11:22pm PT
early Tuolumne FAs

Black Magic 5.11d FA 6/1981, John Bachar, Alan Bartlett
Gold Finger 5.12a FA 7/1981, John Bachar
Body and Soul 5.12 FA 7/1981, John Bachar, Mike Lechlinski
Start Bouldering 5.11 FA 7/1981, John Bachar, Mike Lechlinski
Lechlinski Flake 5.11a FA 7/1981, Mike Lechlinski, John Bachar
You Asked For It 5.10 FA 7/1981, John Bachar, Ron Peers
Bachar-Yerian 5.10d FA 8/1981, John Bachar, Dave Yerian
Cheat Stone 5.10 FA 1981, John Bachar, Mike Lechlinski, Dave Yerian

Steep Thrills 5.11a FA 6/1982, John Bachar, Alan Bartlett
Huricane Betsy 5.11d FA 7/1982, John Bachar
Tune Up 5.10a FA 7/1982, John Bachar, Ron Kauk
Inner Vision 5.10b FA 8/1982, John Bachar
Movement in Camouflage 5.10c FA 1982, John Bachar

(from Rock Climbs of Tuolumne Meadows Reid & Falkenstein © 1983)
Remuus

Trad climber
Cali then; Tetons now
Jul 9, 2009 - 11:40pm PT
Another short but cool FA is "Shaft of the Penetrater" at the knobby wall.
Rankin

climber
North Carolina
Jul 10, 2009 - 09:27am PT
bump
Greg Barnes

climber
Jul 10, 2009 - 12:03pm PT
I was waiting until Ed listed up the full JB list in Tuolumne, but I wanted to ask people about some obscure stuff:

 someone told me that Latin Lady (5.10a R/X on Low Profile, the streak just left of Black Widow) is a JB route - it says "unknown" in the FA index - anyone know?

 is there a JB free solo FA between Darth Vader's Revenge and Sh#t Hooks or somewhere right in there?

 did the project Battlefield of the Galactic Giants (or Battlefield of the Cosmic Giants, name?) go to the huge ledge at the base of Lechlinski Flake/You Asked For It and was incomplete higher, or was it a project whose first pitch was incomplete? I remember seeing one bolt about 100' off the deck, I think it was a 3/8" hex-head (probably Diamond Taper) with a Leeper hanger.

 for way obscure stuff, no idea if it is related to JB or not, but near Johnny Rock: a little left of Beyond a Shadow of Doubt is a steep flake to leftward traverse to steep section, with a big slab above. No idea if this is a complete line or a project. There is one fixed bong and a single visible bolt (looks like 1/4" plus Leeper), probably 70+ feet up. Definitely would be a 2-pitch route, but may be really runout, not sure on p1 anchor.

Just FYI on Johnny Rock - the bolt is an original beefy 3/8" JB taper eye bolt, like the ones on the bottom of Peace and the ones that used to be on Grenade Launcher, so it should be bomber.

Also just FYI, the bolts on Swinger (5.11+ R/X, JB and Kauk) are still 1/4", we replaced the Lechlinski Flake anchor but didn't go higher. I would assume that the Black Magic (5.11c R/X) bolts are also bad.
Maysho

climber
Truckee, CA
Jul 10, 2009 - 12:08pm PT
"Bachars Revenge" is the black streak just right of the Darth Vadar roof. 5.10a. You can actually put some pieces in step over and lead it that way. Often did that while guiding. Soloed it once, when I was on a training run for some other knob action years ago, and that is where Rick Cashner broke a knob and took a bad tumbling fall that would have been were he not so thickly built.

Peter
dfrost7

Social climber
Jul 11, 2009 - 02:08am PT
Bump for John.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jul 11, 2009 - 04:11am PT
I will see Ed atonorrow, and give him his meadows guidebook back so he can make a peritnent list, someone remind me, it I forget!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jul 11, 2009 - 11:22am PT
I remember there is a pretty good photo of Moongerms, with Gullich.

Not exactly the photo of the climb which comes to mind,
(I think there's another one which is a better portrait of the climb itself)
But I searched the Internet and found these guys talking about it here:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=375380&tn=80


Photo, previously posted by Walleye,
from p.40 of Gullich's book Sportklettern Heute
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Jul 11, 2009 - 01:05pm PT
As impressive as many of his first ascents was John's many first flash ascents of routes that were massively frigged, yo-yoed and hang-dogged on the FA. In many cases, his were the first legitimate ascents of the countless routes he got the second on.

Two important ones (of many) were flash ascents of the Cringe and a route down at Suicide called Tar and Feathers. Both routes are in the 12a range. Tar and Feathers leans and takes piss poor wires in the back of a paper thin, tips lieback flake. This was before TCUs. When I did this climb I lowered off like five times and bounce tested the wired nuts I placed, and half of them ripped out. The idea the JB just slotted those trash nuts and pushed on over tipped out, 11d/12a liebacking, is shocking. The Cringe is just a big arm burner and back then, JB could jam to Pluto and back and not draw a pump.

Another thing he often did out at Josh - and which I joined him on occasion - was to on-sight free solo climbs up to low end 5.10. People solo amazing things these days but little of it is on sight. Bachar was a master of on-sighting, and was especially good out at Josh, where we grew up on stuff like So High, White Rastafarian, and Slashface. Man, even 5.8 climbs became electrifying on the on-sight solo, especially if a few grainy face moves were involved. We mainly stayed with the cracks - stuff you could possibly reverse. I got haired out a thousand times. JB never lost his cool. On Billabong, Intersection Rock, I almost grabbed his leg on the grainy face moves on the first pitch.

And then there was all the highball bouldering, without crash pads, remember. You just couldn't fall. We did that stuff all over Colorado and California and it was always so exciting. JB almost always was first to do the problems because he was the best. I remember taking him on a tour of Roubidoux around 1976, right in the hayday. I took him to Joe Brown boulder (upwards of 40 feet tall), to Autopilot, down the Smooth Soul Wall (again, nearing 40 feet tall), and over to the Circle Crack and JB on sight soloed all of these things. It was remarkable.

So many memories . . .

JL
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jul 11, 2009 - 10:42pm PT
(Bumped for Clint.)

It looks like John's birthdate was March 23rd, 1957.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=563237

The link, a birthday thread started by someone who would know, is dated March 24th 2008. In it, John indicates that his birthday was in fact the previous day, the 23rd. Although he may have just been being disingenuous, playing a joke, avoiding attention, or just being John.
dogtown

climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
Jul 12, 2009 - 12:13am PT
Correction Clint. Caliente 5.12b? it’s 12C maybe 12D. Just for the records.

Bruce.

shipoopoi

Big Wall climber
oakland
Jul 12, 2009 - 12:56am PT
al dude, isn't bombs over tokyo rated 12c. it has had at least a second ascent, by myself. shipoopoi
Rick A

climber
Boulder, Colorado
Jul 12, 2009 - 12:31pm PT
I belayed John when he did the FA of Caliente at Suicide in 1978. I was living up in Idylwild for the summer, working construction.

Darrell Hensel and Kevin Powell had spotted this line and put in the first few bolts. KP and Henny eventually asked me to try it with them, and I got a couple of moves higher, but was stymied trying to get above the short headwall.

John was down from the valley, so I invited him to try it. He fell a few times, but eventually solved the sequence and put in a bolt from a dicey, steep stance. This was the hardest climb at Suicide or Tahquitz to that date, but just another magnificent lead by John.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jul 12, 2009 - 04:34pm PT
Black Magic 5.11c, FA 6/1981, John Bachar, Alan Bartlett
Gold Finger 5.12a, FA 7/1981, John Bachar
Start Bouldering 5.11d, FA 7/1981, John Bachar, Mike Lechlinski
Body and Soul 5.12b, FA 7/1981, John Bachar, Mike Lechlinski
Lechlinski Flake 5.11a, FA 7/1981, Mike Lechlinski, John Bachar
You Asked For It 5.10b, FA 7/1981, John Bachar, Ron Peers
Cheat Stone 5.11b, FA 8/1981, John Bachar, Mike Lechlinski, Dave Yerian
Bachar/Yerian 5.11c, FA 8/1981, John Bachar, Dave Yerian

Movement in Camouflage 5.10d, FA 7/1982, John Bachar
Time Up 5.10a, FA 7/1982, John Bachar, Ron Kauk
Inner Vision 5.10b, FA 8/1982, John Bachar

Bachar Solo, Low Profile Dome 5.9 FA 8/1983, John Bachar
Brainwave 5.9, FA 8/1983, John Bachar, Mike Waugh, Darryl Nikahira
Swinger 5.11+, FA 8/1983, John Bachar, Ron Kauk
Count Down 5.12a, FA 1983, John Bachar, Alan Bartlett
Edging Skills or Hospital Bills 5.10, FA 1983, John Bachar

The Flash 5.11, FA 6/1984, John Bachar, Mike Lechlinski
Summertime 5.10a, FA 7/1984, John Bachar, Tom Herbert
Free for All ?, FA 7/1984, John Bachar, Mike Lechlinski
Great White Book Arete 5.10a, FA 8/1984, John Bachar, Kurt Smith
Solitary Confinement 5.9, FA 8/1984, John Bachar
Tomb of the Unknown Climber 5.10c, (chopped Inspiration solo), 1984, John Bachar

Straight Street 5.10a, FA 6/1985, John Bachar, Ed Barry
Run for Cover 5.10b, FA 7/1985, John Bachar, Tom Herbert
The Kid 5.10b, FA 7/1985, Kurt Smith, John Bachar
The Pinhead 5.11b, FA 7/1985, Kurt Smith, John Bachar
Here's Johnny 5.10c, FA 7/1985, John Bachar, Kurt Smith
Ciebola continuation 5.10b, FA 8/1985, John Bachar, Rob Oravetz, Lidija Painkiher
Body Language 5.11b, FA 1985, John Bachar, Tom Herbert, et al.
Orinthology 5.11d, FA 1985, John Bachar, et al.

Decoy 5.11b, FA 7/1986, John Bachar, Tom Herbert

One-Armed Bandit 5.11b, FA 8/1987 John Bachar, Al Swanson (chopped)

Johnny Rock 5.11c, FA 1980s, John Bachar
Bombs Over Tokyo 5.13a, FFA 1980s, John Bachar
Grenade Launcher 5.12c, FA 1980s, John Bachar

Barchar Solo, Stately Pleasure Dome 5.7, FA John Bachar
Battle Field ?, FA John Bachar, unnamed

from Rock Climbing Tuolumne Meadows Reid & Falkenstein © 2006
aldude

climber
Monument Manor
Jul 12, 2009 - 06:18pm PT
Stevie....I should have known you would be the one to bag the second. OK - what did you think - good rating? - runout? Did you see " Bombs Under Tokyo " ...the bolted route below the roof that others have mistaken for the original? Who did you do it with? - did they send? History wants to know!
henny

Social climber
The Past
Jul 13, 2009 - 01:13pm PT
Ricky,

As much as KP and I would have liked to spot Caliente first, we didn't. In fact this is a good segway because I wanted to get some info on Caliente's pre-history as well as the day JB sent it. But rather than clog this thread up with it maybe I'll do it in a seperate one.

Edit: I seem to be screwing up the link and don't have time to look into it right now, I'll try to get the link in later. The Caliente thread is out there if anyone is interested.
can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
Jul 13, 2009 - 03:02pm PT
I didn't see his participation in the Survival of the Fittest contests on Clints list. I remember Psycho Kenny and myself would spar with John when he was practicing for the pugil stick competition. IRC, Kenny dotted him more then a few times.
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jul 13, 2009 - 05:24pm PT
1977 - "bought a car". Actually a nice white (?) VW van. And a racing bicycle.
michaelj

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Jul 13, 2009 - 09:43pm PT
One thing I've always wondered: When he offered the $10k, did he actually have it?
WBraun

climber
Jul 13, 2009 - 10:40pm PT
Are you sure?
Alan Rubin

climber
Amherst,MA.
Jul 16, 2009 - 09:51am PT
I'm still trying to absorb the shock of John's death. I didn't know him personally but he was an inspiration to all of us. Though John's climbing achievements are really only one aspect of his life, and surely not the most important, this is a climbing site, so I'd like to elaborate on one segment of his career not included in the original timeline, though briefly mentioned by a couple of other posters.While John's climbing was largely North America focussed he did make an important contribution to European climbing as well. In the late '70s/early '80s German rock climbing was going through a major, and quite controversial (and confrontational) transition from using local cliffs for do-anything-to-get-to the-top-quickly alpine training to an emphasis on free climbing. To help in this process, in the spring of 1981 the "free climbers" held an International Free-Climbing Meet in the then semi-backwater Frankenjura area, inviting top free climbers from elsewhere, including Ron Fawcett from England and J.C. Droyer from France, to give demonstrations and examples of free climbing techniques and prowess. John was the US "representative" at the Meet, and during it, and while remaining in the area after the official Meet ended, added several major free routes to the region. One route in particular was a major breakthrough, initially rated X (5.13a), (though subsequently downgraded to IX--12d)it was by a good bit the hardest route in Germany, and probably in Europe, at the time and had a major impact on the local climbing scene. John named his creation Chasin' the Trane. Though allegedly having a jazz (John Coltrane) derivation, the message was clear--the locals had some catching up to do!!!! It is worth noting that the locals in attendance quickly took up John's challenge, copied and improved upon his training methods, and successfully began freeing harder and harder routes---one Wolfgang Gullich in particular.
can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
Jul 16, 2009 - 10:23am PT
"John was the US "representative" at the Meet" is not quite true. He was there with his then partner Mike Lechlinski, with Mari accompanying them on that particular trip. Just keeping things clear
Nefarius

Big Wall climber
Fresno
Jul 16, 2009 - 12:06pm PT
"Are you sure?"

Appears as tho at least half of the statement is true, Werner, as no one stepped up.
phylp

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
Jul 16, 2009 - 09:27pm PT
Thanks so much Clint for compiling all this info.
It's still hard for me to read any of the posts about John without tears running down, and I wasn't even his friend. That's how special and important his legacy is.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Jul 16, 2009 - 09:49pm PT
Given that Bachar was the premier solo rock climber in the US at the time, when I first heard his offer, it rang quite hollow. It seemed more like a boast than anything else. Who was out there that was anywhere near as good? Who did he think his competition was?

I've always wondered if, as he grew older, if he ever wished he could take that back.
marty(r)

climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
May 3, 2012 - 12:35pm PT
From the Black Diamond Spring 1995 catalog...

"Peter Croft on the amazing Moongerms" (photo by Greg Epperson)
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
May 3, 2012 - 12:39pm PT
When was John's very first ascent/free ascent? At least as recorded in guidebooks?
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
May 3, 2012 - 01:44pm PT
John's bouldering efforts and influence on that aspect of climbing should not be overlooked in any list of his achievements.
Johnny K.

climber
May 3, 2012 - 03:26pm PT
http://www.rockandice.com/articles/how-to-climb/article/467-john-bachar-profile-life-of-rock-climbings-best-soloist?start=5

Bachar is largely unapologetic about his contentious past, saying he doesn't regret the path he took. He estimates that in total he chopped around 50 bolts and thinks that maybe chopping wasn't the right thing to do. Peter Croft (another renowned soloist) didn't chop bolts, Bachar says. "He just did his own thing."

No one is apt to accuse Bachar of bending to the will of others. After his hiatus from climbing, he returned to the sport that he once lorded over. After years of other pursuits, he just got bored and realized that climbing was the only real deal, the only sport where you lay it on the line.

He says today he sees himself in a lot of athletes in the top of their fields. They're lonely, shunned, trying to gain acceptance by excelling at their sport. Says Bachar, "They have no clue. Only later, when you master your sport and feel good about yourself and make some money, do you realize that that sh#t isn't really that important. Then you relax and it doesn't matter so much."

He says, too, that ultimately you just have to climb because you dig it, a nugget of wisdom that he says "took him 50 years to realize."
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
May 3, 2012 - 03:26pm PT
wow!
all over again...

Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
May 3, 2012 - 03:39pm PT
'09 was a rough summer for many of us.


BTW, the Barry (correction) wrestling incident was at Snowbird in July, 1989.
Jorroh

climber
May 3, 2012 - 03:53pm PT
"1981 - FA of Chasin' The Trane; Frankenjura - first 5.13 in Europe, during International Free-Climbing Meet"

Not even close. Fawcett had put up a whole string of 5.13 routes by that time, many pretty gnarly trad leads that were put up without prior top-roping.
WBraun

climber
May 3, 2012 - 03:59pm PT
Who was out there that was anywhere near as good?

Kauk, Barber, Gullich, Croft, Hearsey Etc.

Ron didn't want free solo anymore.

Bachar wasn't the only one .......

Inner City

Trad climber
East Bay
May 3, 2012 - 04:01pm PT
Didn't Bachar always say that he thought Ron Kauk was a better climber than he was?
WBraun

climber
May 3, 2012 - 06:44pm PT
Kauk wasn't better nor worse.

Just two different styles of climbers and personalities.

You people need to stop judging these guys.

They're all cutting edge players in the top tier ......
Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
May 4, 2012 - 12:31am PT
I climbed New Dimensions with John in late August 1975, and it
wasn't long before that he free soloed New Dimensions. He told
me all about it, how he wired that last pitch and top-roped
it dozens of times, how he got real fit before doing it...
Still, a scary solo. Kauk was below and watched. At the top,
grabbing the final bucket, John pretended
to fall, kicking his legs free. Kauk broke into an instant
cold shivering sweat.
Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
May 4, 2012 - 12:50am PT
What Bachar said to me about Kauk was that Ron was possibly
the most naturally gifted climber he knew. I later heard him
say virtually the same thing about Croft....
Anastasia

climber
I'm simply missing my mama.
May 4, 2012 - 01:02am PT
I was part of that car accident too. I am sadly the only one that gets to remember it too so don't sweep me under the carpet. It was a bit too mind twisting for such treatment.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2012 - 03:42pm PT
Jorroh,

> "1981 - FA of Chasin' The Trane; Frankenjura - first 5.13 in Europe, during International Free-Climbing Meet"

> Not even close. Fawcett had put up a whole string of 5.13 routes by that time, many pretty gnarly trad leads that were put up without prior top-roping.

Could you be more specific?
Looking on wiki, I'm seeing:
1978: The Cad (E5, 6a) , North Stack, Gogarth, Anglesey[1] [4]
May 1982: Tequila Mockingbird (E6 6b), Chee Tor, Derbyshire[5]
1982: The Prow (E6 6b), Raven’s Tor, with Gill Fawcett, over 3 days[6]
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ron_Fawcett

E5 = 5.12c/d
E6 = 5.13a/b
according to the table in the back of "High Life - Sportklettern Weltweit" (Zak & Gullich).
But these E6s weren't until 1982.

Anastasia,

I edited the car accident description to include you and some more details.
I wasn't sure how many details to share.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
May 5, 2012 - 12:49am PT
John Bachar in Mountain

Mountain 42 p12

The 1974 season saw little new-route activity at Taquitz. This was largely due to the shortage of aesthetic lines remaining on the cliff; it did, however, give added incentive to the clean-up campaign on aid routes.

The remaining aid on The Unchaste and Black Harlot's Layaway was despatched in fine style by Gib Lewis, John Bachar and Tobin Sorenson. Both climbs were found desperate, and are now graded 5.10+ and 5.11 respectively. Of the few new climbs that did appear, the least contrived was, Hubris (5.10), put up by Mike Heattr and Manuel Gonzales.


Mountain 45 p13

The East Face of Washington Column has been climbed completely free by Kauk, Long and John Bachar. This is an outstanding achievement on a grade 5 route that was originally graded 5.9, A3. The climb, which has been re-named Astralman is very sustained, and involves four pitches of 5.11, four of 5.10 and trhee of 5.9.

...

There have been some interesting developments on Elephant Rock. Hot Line has been climbed completely free by Kauk and Bachar. This is one of the most elegant lines in the valley and the first to involve 5.12 grading. The difficult section, which is on the first pitch, consists of a 5.10 crack followed by a 5.11 traverse (originally tensioned); together, these are said to add up to 5.12 in difficulty. In-situ pegs were used for protection.


Mountain 46 p15

Another noteworthy event was the first free solo ascent of Gollums Arch, on Twin Owls, by John Bachar.


Mountain 47 p13

Perhaps the most audacious piece of rock-climbing in the late season was John Bachar's solo ascent of the last three pitches of New Dimensions (5.11). This is the first 5.11 to be soloed in Yosemite; the last pitch is particularly precarious, involving wild finger-jamming and laybacking in a flared corner.


Mountain 50 p12

John Bachar climbed More Monkey then Funky (5.11), an often attempted 20ft. roof crack. However, rope drag proved a problem after the roof had been climbed, and a top-rope was necessary.


Mountain 51 p14

Jim Bridwell, Mark Graham and John Bachar climbed Great Moments in Baseball (5.11),...


Mountain 53 p14
John Bachar and Jim Bridwell put up Pinky Paralysis (5.11)...

Besides Kauk's Hot Line, current candidates for 5.12, or even higher ratings, would certainly include the Crimson Cringe and Hangdog, by Ray Jardine and John Lakey; Tips, by John Bachar and Kauk; Tales of Power, by Kauk; Overhang Overpass, by Jim Donini; and Coffin Nail, by Phil Gleason. No doubt there will be others.


Mountain 56 p12

Astroman, the name given to the East Face of Washington Column when done free, had two interesting ascents this June: Kauk, belayed by a partner who jumared the ropes, led all of the pitches free; several days later John Bachar climbed the route in the same manner. These ascents, compared with the tentative first free ascent by Kauk, Bachar, and John Long, bring Astroman into the realm of standard, although very difficult, free routes.


Mountain 58 p15

Two routes on Longs Peak had their first free ascents this summer.
After many earlier attempts, the Diamond 7 was finally climbed free by John Bachar and Richard Harris, who thought it hard 5.10.

Two recent ascents of note made here were John Bachar's free lead of Wisdom and Charlie Fowler's solo (and second) ascent of Perilous Journey. Earlier, Alec Sharp and Arnie Strapcans had made determined attempts to climb the second overhang on Wisdom, but Bachar eventually solved the problem by climbing round to the right, having belayed above the first roof.


Mountain 59 p15

Correction
The report published in Mountain 58 incorrectly stated that John Bachar had belayed at the bolt during his first free lead of Wisdom Roof in El Dorado Springs Canyon Bachar did not do this, but the second free ascent party did.



Mountain 63 p15

The all-time classic Diamond-1 was done completely free by Billy Westbay and John Bachar on July 22 (grade V, 5.11). Four pitches were graded at 5.11.


Mountain 65 p15

More recent developments at Suicide including Caliente (5.11) by John Bachar and Rick Accomazzo. This long standing face-climbing problem ranks as one of the most difficult of its kind in the area.


Mountain 69 p17

Leave it to Beaver (5.12-), had it s first lead by John Bachar. This and many other fine climbs including a free solo of Hot Rocks 5.11 (also by Bachar) were filmed by Dean Fidelman and are featured in a short climbing film.

John Bachar, Kevin Powell and Mari Gingery free climbed Rainy Day Dream Away (previously A3) at 5.11-. This follows an exposed arete and involves tricky overhanging face moves.


Mountain 71 p19

On the Sentinel are The Chameleon 5.12, a top rope climb by John Bachar and Mike Lechlinski to the right of Illusion Dweller. To the right of The Chameleo is The Rubberfat Syndrome 5.11 by Bachar, Lechlinski, Mari Gingery and John Yablonski. Not for Loan 5.10b, previously known as A2 was led free by Gib Lewis and Charles Cole. The first pitch of Where Eagles Dare was lead free by John Long at 5.11+. Across a short canyon from Rubbertat Syndrome is Against the Grain 5.10b by Cole, Lewis and Randy Vogel. On Houser Buttress, Hidden Arch was lead free by Lechlinski, followed by Lynn Hill and Long (barely!), at 5.11+. On the Brown Wall are two new routes that follow steep thin cracks on good rock. They are Brown 25 5.10d, and Jerry Brown, 5.10a. On the Wart is Compound W 5.11 by Bachar.
On the formation as you enter the valley are an un-named layback by Bachar, Dale Bard and Yablonski at 5.11+, a short thin crack Broken Glass 5.10b by Cole, Lewis and Vogel; and a fine thin crack Semi Tough 5.11 by Lechlinski, Gingery, Yablonski and Cole. On Hidden Tower- Not Forgotten was led free by Long, at 5.9 and later a mass third class.
Behind the campground are several new lines, they include A Woman's Work is Never Done 5.11 by Maria Cranor; Wet T Shirt Night 5.11+, by Bachar, and Torn Shirt 5.10c by Yablonski. Dale Bard and friends did Canned Funk a 5.10a roof crack.


Mountain 72 p16

...and John Bachar and Lechlinski climbed the impressive Cameleon on The Sentinel.


Mountain 74 p15

Probably the most impressive solo was of Leave it to Beaver (5.12) by John Yablonski, and later by John Bachar. It has seen much popularity as a top rope problem and local test piece. Also, Lynn Hill (5'1") did this route's complex moves and long reaches on her second try! Other routes seeing free solo action include: Left Ski Track, 5.11; Spider Line, 5.11+; Illusion Dweller, 5.10c soloed on sight by Yablonski; More Monkey Than Funky, 5.11; Bearded Cabbage, 5.10c; Right Ski Track, 5.10b; and the very bold Hot Rocks, 5.11b/c; by Bachar.

John Bachar climbed a very difficult roof crack further right called Zombie Woof, 5.12 (top rope.)
Dick Enberg was free climbed, without the 40' tree, (it was tied back) by Bachar and Lechlinski and is considered 5.12 this way. On the back of the Peyote Cracks formation Bachar climbed Baby Apes, 5.13 (top rope). On Echo Rock - Ten Conversations At Once, 5.10a lies in an arch system 60ft right of Stick to what.


Mountain 75 p16

John Bachar made the first free solo ascent of the Nabisco Wall at the Cookie Cliff via Waverly Wafer (5.10), Butterball (5.11c) and Butterfingers (5.11a). An impressive feat by any standards.


Mountain 78 p18

Randy Leavitt made the third ascent of Equinox Crack. John Bachar did the first ascent on top rope (5.12d) in 1978. Yaniro did the second ascent in August 1980. On this ascent, Tony lead the Equinox.


Mountain 81 p16,17

John Bachar, without doubt the most prominent of all, stopped in for a day or two. He repeated Koch platte (8) done by W. Kraus in spring '81, and Teamwork 8, a '78 testpiece by Muhe, failed on the Ameisentrail, "need more training" was his comment.

After having done their duty in the Altmuhl valley they came to Nuremberg to do some climbing. And two of them - John Bachar and Mike Lechlinski - stayed for two months. Here was the new inspiration needed. It was clear that they could do the classics on sight, for example the Dampfhammer (steam hammer), VII+/5.11a. Then it was the desperates' turn. Humbug (nonsense) VIII+/5.11d, Eraserhead VIII+/5.12a, USA-roof IX/5.12c and so on got some more ascents. Uberdach, a more than 180 degree steep 3 metre roof VIII/5.11 in the Fichtelgebirge was climbed clean for the first time.

Then came the turn of the Nuremberg climbers' testpiece, Sautanz (pigs' dance) at the Gcissweinsteiner walls. This line has been free climbed very recently by Kurt Albert and had been marked at the bottom with a small red circle. This circle means that yo-yo tactics have been used. After two weeks of preparing John Bachar made the second ascent and Wolfgang Gullich the third without yo-yo and the red circle was filled up to a red point. The red point is a traditional symbol that was very helpful in spreading the idea of free climbing in West Germany. A red point at the bottom of a climb means that the climb has been done free without putting weight on the protection points. The rating of Sautanz is 5.12c/IX. But 5.12 is not enough. After two days of hard work Bachar freed the old Norwand on Krottenseer tower, formerly A1, V/A1, 5.7. It is now called Chasin' the trane and is at 5.13a/X- the hardest free climb in Germany at present. Shortly after the first ascent Wolfgang Gullich could 'redpoint' it.


Mountain 83 p12

On Medlicott Dome, John Bachar added Black Magic (5.11+) which takes the black streak to the right of The Yawn. Bachar and Dave Yerian did the Bachar-Yerian (5.11+) which takes an utterly awesome vertical streak to the right of Shambles. It is reported to have a potential 60 ft. fall on 5.11 moves. To the left of Sweet Jesus, Bachar added You Asked For It, 5.10. This has 5.10 moves sixty feet out from protection. Just to the left of this, starting atop the first pitch, is the Bachar Flake Route (5.11) which takes a left-slanting flake to rappel bolts.

On South Whizz Dome, Bachar, accompanied by a variety of partners, added three routes on the vertical wall between the Prow and Rivendell Crack. Start Bouldering (5.11) climbs an improbable face to join the Prow just below the summit. Body and Soul (5.12) takes a direct line up the centre of the face to a difficult roof. Cheat Stone (5.10) starts on a three-foot high pile of rocks, but is totally devoid of protection on the first pitch.


Mountain 87 p20
...Verdon both done by Edlinger. The Chrysalis pitch was confirmed as desparate by John Bachar when he narrowly failed to lead it on sight.

Patrick Berhault's "bombe de Pichnibul" has been repeated by Edlinger, John Bachar and S. Troussier: Bachar graded it 5.12c.

Mountain 90 p14

John Bachar's Chasin' the Trane at the near-by Krottenseer Tower had to be down-rated to 9/5.12c after about 10 leads by a couple of climbers.


Mountain 94 p16

John Bachar climbed several high quality new routes. The Isotope (5.11c) is an ultra thin crack to the left of Chingando. The Promise is a 5.11 face route up the Footstool slab. The Omakara (5.11d) is a very steep crack located hundreds of feet up and left from the Arch Rock cliff. The Nightmare Continuation is a 5.11c crack problem above Pink Dreams on Elephant Rock.


Mountain 97 p13

Sepp Gschwendtner, The 'Grand Old Man of German Free Climbing' bagged the first 'redpoint' of Maud-Integral (IX+), a 'Flipper' Fietz boulder problem toproped in 1981 by John Bachar and rated 5.13a...


Mountain 103 p19

Later that month with Dale Goddard, he did the first free ascent of the original aid line of the Wisdom at 5.12 b/c. Now named St. Eve, this pitch steps left from the second belay on the "regular" Wisdom (the belay just over the roof), climbs over a roof (crux) and continues up a small corner with incredible exposure and an easier 5.11 face. This is one of the most spectacular routes of its grade in the canyon, and was tried extensively before John Bachar did the regular free variation which begins in a long traverse right from the second belay.


Mountain 115 p9

Also in that area, John Bachar's Sole Fusion was a victim of the ethics wars, as it was mysteriously chopped for no good reason.


Mountain 117 p8

Suzuki probably did the third ascent of Back to the Future (5.12b) as it was first done by Kauk and later by John Bachar.


Mountain 121 p11

YOSEMITE
Recently Ron Kauk established the first rappel-bolted route in Yosemite in nearly 18 years. The climb, Punchline (5.12b), is a spectacular line ascending the outside face of the Entrance Exam Buttress at Arch Rock. The climb, accepted by nearly all locals as an instant classic, enjoyed a brief and celebrated life before John Bachar returned to the Valley and chopped the route. This led to heated confrontations between Bachar and longtime locals Ron Kauk and Mark Chapman. During one particularly heated discussion between Bachar and Chapman a punch was thrown and Bachar ended up in the dirt of the Camp 4 parking lot. The climb has recently been rebolted and other rap-bolt projects are underway.

While at this point both Bachar and Kauk have their followers, it seems the majority of climbers couldn't care less about how routes are established. What they do care about is the flagrant misuse of bolts regardless of how they are placed. Most climbers feel the main criteria for judging a route's validity should be the finished product and whether or not it is a worthy addition to the Yosemite climbing community, not how the route was established.

Putting these ethical dilemmas aside, Yosemite seems to be finally awakening from the big sleep that has engulfed it for the past eight years and is poised to retake its traditional position at the forefront of world climbing.
[Watch this space!]

Mark Chapman


Mountain 122 p50

Biased and Destructive Reporting
from John Bachar

Dear Editor,
I was saddened to read the piece in the Mountain 127 Info section entitled "Yosemite Brawl Over Euro-Ethics as Bachar Bashing Season Opens'. This report more appropriately belongs in the Opinion section rather than next to the factual reports which regularly appear in the Info column. Not only is the sensationalisation of violence demeaning to myself and other local traditional climbers, but the article does nothing constructive to help the involved parties solve their problems. Is Mountain magazine's sole purpose to make a profit, or do they also wish to Bachar Speaks Out help the climbing community? In such a heated issue the magazine should have contacted people involved on each side of the controversy.

As far as Mr Chapman's opinionated report goes there are many errors and outright lies. He states that the rappel-bolted route Punchline was ". . . accepted by nearly all locals as an instant classic . . ." . The fact is that nearly all locals were appalled by Mr Kauk's actions and he is without a doubt aware of it. Only a year ago he was telling younger climbers that ground up climbing was the only acceptable way to establish a route. Had anybody else rappel bolted a route it would have been removed. Apparently it is acceptable for Mr Kauk to break his own rules.

Chapman states that "During one particularly heated discussion . . . a punch was thrown and Bachar ended up in the dirt of the Camp 4 parking lot." The fact is that only Mr Chapman was "heated" and when he could not continue the discussion in a rational manner he punched me without warning in the neck. I had to go to the hospital to receive treatment for nerve damage to my neck and upper arm. Many would argue that the removal of rappel bolts is an offensive act, but it must be said that the placement of rappel bolts is just as offensive to the ground-up climber as the removal of rap placed bolts is to the rap-bolter. If a top-down climber has the right to place rap-bolts on a ground-up climber's future route, then the ground-up climber has just as much the right to remove those bolts. In everyday life many conflicts arise and are solved without resort to physical violence. The use of physical violence is a totally unacceptable approach to the solution of any problem and should not be condoned by anyone, the press included.

He further states that ". . . the majority of climbers couldn't care less about how routes are established". The fact is that the vast majority of locals do care about how routes are established and even if it were the case that the majority of climbers didn't care about how routes are established, it must be recognised that minorities have rights too. By looking back in history to a time when a majority of people were in favour of the enslavement of the negro minority or when a majority favoured the slaughter of the American Indian, we can learn that the tyranny of the majority is not always just. In fact it is often irrational and mob-like. The traditional ground-up climbers of Yosemite have rights that must be respected.

Mr Chapman also states that " . . . Yosemite seems to be awakening from the big sleep that has engulfed it for the past eight years . . .". The fact is that Yosemite produces some of the hardest ground-up routes in the world to date and the standards are increasing every year. Only because top-down routes are equated with traditional ground-up routes via the usage of the same numerical rating system do Yosemite-style ground-up first ascents appear inferior. After all what is harder, doing an on-sight, on-the-lead first ascent of a 5.13b or doing a top-down, rehearsed, preprotected 5.14a? They are two different games, born of opposite approaches and producing different results. Perhaps Mr Chapman could awaken from his own state of deep sleep by attempting to repeat some of the face climbs recently established by talented young climbers like Steve Schneider or Kurt Smith. The sad fact is that neither Mr Kauk nor Mr Chapman have even tried to repeat the hardest routes of today's gifted young Yosemite climbers.

Unfortunately the main questions in this controversial issue were not even alluded to in the report over the "Yosemite Brawl". How can the freedoms and rights of both parties be preserved and respected? Can top-down rappel-bolting methods co-exist with traditional ground-up methods within the same climbing area? The speed of rappel-bolting will allow rappel bolters to take away all of the best new routes before ground-up climbers even have a fair chance to attempt them. Within a short period of time the local ground-up climbers will have virtually no first ascent projects. This unfair imbalance will cause even greater friction within the climbing community and assure the continuance of more bolt chopping and violence. The speed of rap-bolters vs. the slowness of ground-up climbers causes a natural resource usage conflict that must be addressed if we are to see a viable solution to this matter.

People bashing and bolt removal are most certainly not the best solutions to this difficult issue. Neither does the insensitive exploitation of people's problems by the press help the situation. It is sad to see such biased and destructive reporting in a prestigious magazine like Mountain. Hopefully, in the near future Mountain can offer its readers a more enlightening and thorough analysis of this emotionally charged issue that is not only tearing apart Yosemite but other climbing communities as well.

John Bachar


Mountain 128 p7

In a trouser-filling effort, John Bachar soloed the popular Father Figure, then later soloed it again for photographs. Father Figure is the new campground classic established last year by Cosgrove. It is easily found by walking to Barker Dam, then heading East for 200 yards behind a slabby formation to a small canyon. It is 40 feet tall and overhanging with 4 protection bolts. Bachar also soloed Bikini Whale (5.12b), another bold effort. Reportedly (but yet to be confirmed), Peter Croft tried to solo Equinox (5.12c), but downclimbed from the top crux move (65 feet up). It just goes to show that you have to know when to say when.
Jorroh

climber
May 5, 2012 - 10:51am PT
Not sure if you got my e-mail Clint.

Chasin the Train is given 7c...12d...In the current Frankenjura guide.

Fawcett did Hells Wall (7c+, old style sport manky pegs etc.) at Bowderstone Crag in the lake district in 1979, a few tries spread over one weekend I believe. Yo-Yo'd but no dogging.

Other routes such as Cave left-hand Gordale, Eye of the Tiger in Dovedale, The Great White in Pembroke are considered 7c+ but don't translate very well since they are trad routes.
Strawberries is considered really hard route although its often given 12d sport equivalent.

Really, more than his hardest routes, what was impressive about Fawcett was the huge volume of classic mid to hard 5.12's, many really bold, that he did in the early years of the 80's.

None of which diminishes the amazing stuff that Bachar did. As Werner says...different climbers, different styles.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
May 5, 2012 - 01:09pm PT
Thats funny Ed, I didn't know that Bachar freed D7 with Richard Harris.
I thought he was just an actor.




edit;
and he didn't do everything free either. I heard he took tension in A Man Called Horse.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
May 5, 2012 - 01:26pm PT
there is a lot of fun with the "renaming" in Mountain and the subsequent corrections in later issues...

Mark Hudon was "Mark Hudson" in his first appearance there... seemed to have been a systematic bias towards Hollywood...
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
May 5, 2012 - 01:35pm PT
Actually just left a message on Harrison's phone. lol

It was a british publication,..
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