| Messages 1 - 91 of total 91 in this topic |
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 8, 2009 - 06:47pm PT
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John Bachar timeline (emphasis on his climbing achievements)
1957 - born
1971 - started climbing - Stoney Point - age 14 - bouldered with Bob Kamps - he could do 2 pullups at this point
1973 - first climb at Joshua Tree - Mike's Books 5.6 - w/ high school pole vaulting teammate Mike Ransom - age 16 - he could do 27 pullups at this point
1974 - FFA of Black Harlot's Layaway 5.11d w/ Tobin Sorenson - Tahquitz
1974 - FA of Short But Thin 5.11b w/ Tobin Sorenson
1974 - FFA of Rixon's Pinnacle South Face 5.11d w/ Tobin Sorenson
1975? - set record for his high school in the pole vault
1975 - FFA of Free Blast 5.11b w/ Kauk, Bridwell, Long, Worrall and Graham
1975/5 - FFA of Astroman 5.11c w/ Ron Kauk and John Long
1975 - FFA(except for start) of Tips 5.11d A0 w/ Ron Kauk
1975 - FFA of Hotline 5.12a w/ Ron Kauk - first recognized 5.12 in Yosemite. John said recently that he thought Overhang Overpass might have been the first 5.12 in Yosemite.
1970s - 5th or 6th ascent of The Shield; 3rd ascent of Tangerine Trip
1975? - free solo of Double Cross 5.8 w/ John Long - Joshua Tree
1975? - 3rd ascent of Naked Edge 5.11b w/ Tobin Sorenson w/ some falls
1976 - dropped out of UCLA after one year - wanted to become the best climber in the world
1976 - FA of Gait of Power 5.11d w/ Ron Kauk
1976? - Colorado bouldering tour with John Long and John Gill
1976 - free solo New Dimensions 5.11a
1976 - elbow tendinitis - unable to climb as hard as before (probably recurred in later years)
1977 - Yosemite plane crash scavenging - bought a car
1977+ - guided in Estes Park CO for Fantasy Ridge
1977 - FFA of D7 on the Diamond onsight w/ Richard Harrison
1978/3 - FFA(TR) of Leave It To Beaver 5.11d - Joshua Tree
1978/5 - FFA(TR) of Equinox 5.12d - Joshua Tree
1978 - FA of Caliente 5.12b - Suicide - possibly the hardest pure face climb in CA at that time
1978 - second ascent of Midnight Lightning, after working with Kauk on the FA
1978 - FFA of D1 on the Diamond w/ Bill Westbay
1978 - FFA of The Wisdom 5.11d - Eldorado
1978 - FFA of West Owl Direct aka Silly Putty 5.11+ R - Estes Park
1978 - Nose speed record - 15 hours w/ Mike Lechlinski http://www.speedclimb.com/yosemite/thenose.htm
1979 - FL of Leave It To Beaver 5.11d - Joshua Tree
1979 - solo groundfall from Clever Lever 5.12a - swung further out than expected without rope drag
1979 - free solo Nabisco Wall - Waverley Wafer 5.10c - Butterballs 5.11c - Butterfingers 5.11a
1980/3 - FA(TR) of Baby Apes 5.12b - Joshua Tree
1980 - close call during onsight free solo of The Moratorium 5.11b - (was rated 5.10d) - wanted to downclimb but unable - gave up onsight 5.11 solos after this
1980? - 7-Up commercial with Bridwell - $30k
1980? - featured on "That's Incredible" (TV show) - clip: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=03udLvtNR6Y
1980? - competed in "Survival of the Fittest" competition on NBC "Sports World", which took place partly in Yosemite and included several Yosemite climbers and other athletes. Mike Hoover was involved in producing this.
1980? - Nose speed record - 12 hours w/ Mike Lechlinski (not listed on Hans' site - maybe check climbing magazines?)
1981 - FA of Chasin' The Trane; Frankenjura - first 5.13 in Europe, during International Free-Climbing Meet
1981 - started playing saxaphone - self-taught
1981/6 - FA of Black Magic 5.11c R - Tuolumne w/ Alan Bartlett
1981/7 - FA of Goldfinger 5.12a - Tuolumne
1981/7 - FA of Body and Soul 5.12 R - Tuolumne w/ Mike Lechlinski
1981/8 - FA of Bachar-Yerian 5.11c R - Tuolumne w/ Dave Yerian
1981 - issued $10,000 challenge for anyone to follow him on a day of soloing in Tuolumne Meadows - no takers
1982 - Miguel Angel Gallego gave him a pair Boreal (Spain) Fire shoes
1982 - formed Sole Survivor with Mike Graham - distributed Boreal climbing shoes - $65k/year
1982 - FA of Movement in Camouflage 5.10d R - Tuolumne
1982? - FFA of Bombs Over Tokyo 5.12b/d? R - Tuolumne
1982 - FA of Tunnel Vision 5.12d
1982 - FA of Moongerms 5.11d w/ Werner Braun
1982 - FA(TR) of Acid Crack 5.12d - Joshua Tree
1982 - free soloing in Joshua Tree - Hot Rocks, Spider Line, Leave it to Beaver, More Monkey than Funkey, Baby Apes
1982 - FL (free solo) of Baby Apes 5.12b - Joshua Tree
1982 - married Brenda Lugo
1983 - FA(TR) of Moonbeam Crack 5.12d - Joshua Tree
1983 - FL of Acid Crack 5.12d - Joshua Tree
1983 - Rolling Stone article (28 April) - "Valley boys" by Trip Gabriel - transcription: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=244379
1983 - Gillette shaving commercial - $38k
1983 - FA of The Promise 5.11b R w/ Dale Bard
1984 - FA of The Believer 5.12a
1984 - Life Magazine article (September) - "The ultimate dare - solo rock climbers in Yosemite, John Bachar, Ron Kauk"
1985 - FAs of The Kid 5.11b R, The Pinhead 5.10c R, and Here's Johnny 5.10d R - Tuolumne w/ Kurt Smith
1985 - free solo Father Figure 5.13a - Joshua Tree
1986 - FA of The Phantom 5.13a R
1986 - Nose speed record - 10:05 w/ Peter Croft
1986 - linked The Nose and Half Dome NW Face in 14 hours w/ Peter Croft
1988 - punch incident at Camp 4 parking lot after Cottage Dome project was rap bolted and bolt hangers flattened on Arch Rock
1990 - separated from Brenda Lugo
1990 - Foresta house burned down in forest fire - after building permit hassles, sold land and moved to Mammoth Lakes
1991 - free solo The Gift 5.12c - Red Rocks
1996 - son Tyrus Bachar born with Val
2000 - stopped working for Sole Survivor/Boreal
2003 - formed Acopa International LLC with Dario Piana and Steve Karafa
2006 - car accident where Steve Karafa died; Bachar fractured 5 neck vertebrae; had intermittent weakness in one hand/arm
2009 - died in soloing fall near Mammoth Lakes; CA
Single best source: Duane Raleigh's "Being Bachar", Rock and Ice #166
http://www.rockandice.com/inthemag.php?id=10&type=featart
Another useful source was his radio interview in Boulder, April 2009.
http://www.archive.org/details/completebachar
I constructed this because I felt the obituaries which have appeared so far have focused on his free soloing, to the neglect of his many other climbing achievements.
This probably contains some errors and omissions. Thanks to everyone who posted in this thread with corrections and additions. [last edited: 7/17/09].
Mike Graham's memorial thread for John Bachar:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=896012
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Thanks Clint, earlier today i was thinking that we needed something like this.
Probably a few corrections to come, like the 1984 Life™ magazine article. Prolly more, but they are just details.
Really nice work, Clint!
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
Arid-zona
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It's so nuts what he was doing after clmibing only 4 years. Amazing.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
the ground up
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Didn't he have more FAs after '90 ? (Owens Gorge, Clark Canyon etc) I'd like to see more climbing details for those last years in the timeline .
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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he wasn't like the rest of us...
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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That's awesome Clint. I was thinking something like that would be cool to see. What a run!!!
Four years... yeah...you have to figure he gloriously found what he was meant to do on this earth.
We should all be so lucky.
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rick d
climber
tucson, az
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clint- the essence of shaving commercial, that's incredible, and all the rest of the pop culture stuff too!
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wildone
climber
GHOST TOWN
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You should insert that on Jan 2007, he met me in Joshua Tree, and we chatted. Influenced me, for sure.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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He put up some great routes on the Eastside too. There's one up at Dexter Canyon that I've always been interested in. The usual Bachar stuff, a few bolts and likely sandbagged.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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I always thought Moongerms, Love Supreme, Body & Soul were among the coolest looking Bachar routes.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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What about the 7-up commercial?
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chez
Social climber
chicago ill
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Sandbagging yes, but Bachar knew how to grade routes, an art that is being mistreated these days.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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"Before I climb 10,000 feeties, I ALWAYS eat my Wheaties!"
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chez
Social climber
chicago ill
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I had you pegged as a Wheaties man! Would look good on the box too.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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But they gave the commercial to Bachar.
WHY ???
I was in the try outs, along with a host of gay guys wearing woodsman like costumes, but like with corduroy short shorts & flannel, trying to look like climbers.
Largo must've been doing the screening, cuz he tells me later:
"Ho man, you should lay off the PIPE before auditions."
I had Pink Eye, for real.
No way to cover that up.
So they gave it to BACHAR fer chrissakes.
(prolly a good call)
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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a more complete Yosemite FA and FFA list?
Short but Thin 5.11b FA 1974 Tobin Sorenson, John Bachar
Rixon's Pinnacle, South Face 5.8 A2 FA 1948 Chuck Wilts, Ellen Wilts; 5.11d FFA 1974 Tobin Sorenson, John Bachar
Pinky Paralysis 5.11c FA 1975 John Bachar, Jim Bridwell
Preface 5.11b FA 1975 John Bachar, Tobin Sorenson
Tips FA 1975 John Bachar, Ron Kauk; 5.12a FFA 1985 Jonny Woodward, Ron Kauk
Short but Thick 5.11a FA 1975 Kevin Worrall, John Bachar, Ed Barry
Free Blast 5.11b FA 1975 Jim Bridwell, John Long, Kevin Worrall, Mike Graham, John Bachar, Ron Kauk
Washington Column, East Face (Astroman) 5.9 A3 FA 1959 Warren Harding, Glen Denny, Chuck Pratt; 5.11c FFA 1975 John Bachar, John Long, Ron Kauk
Hotline FA 1973 Jim Bridwell, Mark Chapman; 5.12a FFA 1975 Ron Kauk, John Bachar
Gait of Power 5.11d FA 1976 Ron Kauk, John Bachar
666 5.12c FA 1980 Dave Schultz, John Bachar
Le Bachar 5.11b FA 1982 John Bachar, Mike Lichlinski, Mari Gingery
Moongerms 5.11d FA 1982 John Bachar, Werner Braun
Tunnel Vision 5.12d FA 1982 John Bachar
Isotope 5.11d FA 1983 John Bachar, Dimitri Barton, Ron Kauk, Werner Braun
Omakara 5.12b FA 1983 John Bachar
The Promise 5.11b FA 1983 John Bachar, Dimitri Barton
The Believer 5.12a FA 1984 John Bachar
Inchworm 5.11b FA 1984 John Bachar, Rick Cashner
Nightmare Continuation 5.11d FA 1984 John Bachar, Rick Cashner
Fasten Your Seat Belts 5.10d FA 1985 John Bachar, Rick Cashner
Free Ride 5.10a FA 1985 John Bachar, Rick Cashner
Headhunter 5.10- FA 1985 John Bachar, Rick Cashner
Opposition 5.11d FA 1985 John Bachar, Werner Braun
Dale's Pin Job 5.13 FA 1986 John Bachar
Phantom 5.13a FA 1986 John Bachar
The Remnant, Center Route 5.12a FA 1986 John Bachar
John's Ring Job (Bachar's Ring Job) 5.11d FA 1989 John Bachar, Ron Kauk
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WBraun
climber
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Tips First ascent was Charlie Porter on aid solo.
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The Warbler
climber
the edge of America
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Moongerms is an amazing looking route that I bet next to nobody who posts here has ever seen.
One of the Valley's most badass looking finger cracks.
How was that route, Werner?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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early JT FAs
Candelabra F10 1972, John Bachar, Oliver Moon
Left Ski Track Direct F12 1973, John Long, John Bachar
That F11 1974, Mike Graham, John Bachar
Deep Throat F9 1975, John Bachar, Tobin Sorenson, Bill Antel, Craig Parsley
Spiderman F10 1975, John Long, John Bachar
Hands Down F12 1976, John Bachar
Sympathy to the Devil F10 1976, John Bachar
Desert Song F12 1977, John Bachar
Goldenbush Corner F12 1977, John Bachar
Only 1 Suicide FA?
Flakes of Wrath, 5.10+, 1975, John Bachar, Gib Lewis, Wilson, John Long, Eriksson, Tobin Sorenson
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Sewellymon
climber
.....in a single wide......
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'80 or ’81- John Bachar and Mike Lechlinski set then-current speed record of The Nose. 12 hours climbed old school (pitch by pitch/ no simul/ no short fixing).
(edit- Clint wrote down-thread that Hans site says 15 hr in '78? pretty sure i am right, tho it was almost 30 yrs ago and brain cells are fleeing by the millions.... )
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jaybro's got my Tuolumne Guide, so I don't have a way of listing those FAs right now.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there say, clint... this will especially nice for his son...
very nice...
say, thanks for sharing here...
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Walleye
climber
A hard right down Big Tujunga Canyon
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"'80 or ’81- John Bachar and Mike Lechlinski set then-current speed record of The Nose. 12 hours climbed old school (pitch by pitch/ no simul/ no short fixing)."
Really???? I had no idea about this. That is awesome.. Another testament to John's abilities (and Lechlinski's). In reality, a half of a day to do the Nose, even today, is a not-so-un-awesome accomplishment. Keep it going guys. TESTIFY!
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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John had elbow/tendinitis problems at least as early as 1976. When I met him in the Valley that autumn, he was laid up from it, and couldn't go climbing. He wouldn't even do Bishop's Terrace. He played a lot of chess that year.
At the time, I'd never heard of tendinitis, so it stuck in my memory.
Perhaps he had intermittent or chronic tendinitis, like so many climbers?
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dickcilley
Social climber
Wisteria Ln.
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666,.12c is a Skip Guerin route.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2009 - 09:54pm PT
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Thanks for all the corrections and updates!! Especially the Nose speed record(s), which I finally found on Hans' site after looking earlier. (Hans has it at 15 hours in 1978 for Bachar and Lechlinski; maybe they did it again in 12 hours in 1980/81?) I'm off to the Valley; will return in a few days and hope to find more corrections when I get back (will add Joshua Tree FAs to the list, too). John did a lot! (we knew that, and we also know that a simple list misses a lot of the details, but it's a start) :-)
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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What and when was John's first route in the Valley? That is, climb with a rope?
Edit: Clint, your excerpt doesn't seem to mention John's first Valley climb, but does mention his first at Tahquitz. I wonder who the friend's sister's boyfriend who'd been on Everest was?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2009 - 10:48pm PT
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Anders,
From the "Being Bachar" article linked:
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Bachar grew up in Westchester, California, best known as the home of LAX. He read Maurice Herzog's Annapurna and The White Spider by Heinrich Harrer and was instantly sold on climbing despite knowing virtually nothing about the sport. A high-school buddy, Mike Ransom, who pole vaulted on the track team with Bachar, had a sister who was dating a guy who had climbed Everest, elevating him to hero status for Bachar and Ransom.
"We asked to see his gear," says Bachar, "but he wouldn't even talk to us."
Bachar and Ransom bouldered at L.A.'s Stoney Point, then hit Joshua Tree or Tahquitz on weekends. "We did Mike's Books (5.6) with helmets and everything," says Bachar. "Total newbies." At Josh, Bachar met Mike Graham, Tobin Sorenson and Dean "Bullwinkle" Fidelman. "Those guys were way serious about climbing," Bachar recalls, "going to Yosemite during spring break and hanging there all summer."
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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From Marty's Owens River Guidebook:
Me So Horny 12 FA Bachar, Cashner 89
Skin Tight 12c FA Bachar 89
Malcolm X 12b FA Erik Eriksson, Bachar, Bill McChesney 92
Stardate 5.9 FA Bachar 91 (I suspect solo FA since bolts were Strassman's?)
Vulcan Jock Itch FA 10a Bachar 92 (same?)
Pick Pocket 11a FA Bachar, Cashner 88 (which, btw, is a stellar route!)
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Nice work Clint.
You offer so many unique contributions to the community.
Ed too. Thanks for the spheres where you collect and organize important (or merely interesting) data
Peace
Karl
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Fletcher
Trad climber
the end of the world as we know it, & I feel fine.
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Thanks Clint. This provides another perspective and scale to who John was.
Eric
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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List I chucked together quickly the other day...
Bachar-Yerian (5.11c). Tuolumne
Ummagumma (V7), Stoney Point
Caliente (12c), Suicide
The Chameleon (12b R), Sentinel, JT
So High (V5 R), JTree
Tips (5.11 A0), Yosemite
Skin Tight (12c), ORG
Malcolm X (12b), ORG
Pumping Monzonite (V7), JTree
Hotline (12a), Yosemite
Astroman (11c), Yosemite
Pick Pocket (11a), ORG
Driving South (11d), Mt. Woodson
Hear My Train A Comin’ (11c/d C1), Mt. Woodson
Flakes of Wrath (10c R), Suicide
Leave It To Beaver (12a), JTree
JBMFP (V5), JTree
All Washed Up (V6 R), JTree
Stem Gem (V4), JTree
Big Moe (11a/b R), JTree
Baby Apes (12c), JTree
More Monkey Than Funky (11b), JTree
Planet X (V6 R), JTree
Slashface (V3), JTree
Hot Rocks (11b), JTree
Desert Song (11b R), JTree
Gunsmoke (V3), JTree
Bebop Tango (11a), JTree
The Wisdom (11d R), Eldorado Canyon
FFA D7 (5.11), Diamond, Long’s Peak
FFA D1 (12a), Diamond, Long’s Peak
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Rankin
climber
North Carolina
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Thanks for the list. Jesus. What a prolific career. I didn't know about JBs historic ascents of the Diamond.
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nate23
Trad climber
c-ville, virginia
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when was that iconic solo picture of the gift in red rocks taken?
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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There's a powerful biography to be written here, not just about the climbs but the life that connected them, all the way to the end.
More than one author will try; I hope at least one does it justice.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Don't forget:
"Chasin' the Train" and "Gill Swing" in Frankenjura from his 1981 trip there.
Both rated "IX" on the UIAA scale in the current guidebook (and the spelling is correct to boot). About 5.12d.
Can't recall the name of the route in the Verdon Gorge.
-Brian
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DR
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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I hope Largo will consider writing John's bio. He's got a lot of writing mojo recent years, and he was there for some of the big chapters.
I was feeling grateful the other day for Michael Reardon's nice video about John. Besides the footage you expected, it was intriguing to see his father and what he had to say.
How about a CD of John cranking on the sax? I never got to hear him play...
And: a big thanks to Clint and Ed and Dave for the timelines. Hard to wrap my head around all that John did.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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You could probably cut and paste a pretty sweet biography just from this site in a couple of hours time.
Bachar put up classics and when it came to bolts he made a statement. Those routes still speak.
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Nate Smith
climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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John put up 5 climbs in Frankenjura in 1981:
Metamorphose 8+ or 5.12a/b
Strohdach 9- or 5.12b/c (Super popular) Was just out there last month.
Chasin the Trane 9 or 5.12d
Sonderprüfung (Toehook) 8+ or 5.12a/b
Gill Swing 9- or 5.12b/c
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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I was there when he did the FA of Acid Crack. Simply amazing to me at the time
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Sewellymon
climber
.....in a single wide......
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I thought the guy who wrote the NY Times obit did a credible job (apart from using the word "daredevil")and I emailed him a brief kudos. He wrote back saying he had a deadline/ virtually no time to pull the info together about something/ somebody he knew nothing about. All the more impressive IMO
http://www.nytimes.com/2009/07/09/sports/09bachar.html
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Scared Silly
Trad climber
UT
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Swelly, thanks for the link. That was a very descent obit by the writer.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Definitely need that Tuolumne FA list as a standalone document.
I have the Reid & Falkenstein book sitting here; but no way I'm going to attempt to feed that information through my voice-activated cheese grater. Ha.
I imagine you guys & gals with the OCR(?)
Or whatever that fancy software is, will stitch that together in a wee bit here...
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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What an awesome resume - a few notes :
The only route John ever rated 5.13 was Bombs Over Tokyo. Unrepeated !!
Chameleon on The Sentinel in Josh was established by Paul Borne (ground up, onsight of course). John had toproped the route and when Paul asked if he could lead it John said " just do it in good style ". John toproped a lot of new routes but always considered the onsight lead the prouder accomplishment and would defer to aspiring leaders of his topropes - such as Blackout in Tuolumne to Kurt Smith.
John was a master stance driller and many of his FAs such as Johnny Rock and The Believer were testiments to this now dying art. John had the first Bosch Bulldog I had ever seen and used it only from one handed stances. Routes done in this style included Bulldog Arete 12a @ The Lions Den and One Armed Bandit 11c @ The Peanut Gallery In Tuolumne. The latter was the only FA I shared with John... imagine our dismay when this killer route (the first one on the wall)was pronounced " too short " and summarily chopped !
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lostinshanghai
Social climber
someplace
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May 1977. Can not recall but he said something about this and climbing were related.
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dfrost7
Social climber
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For me, he will always be the James Brown of climbing.
"I got soul, and I'm super-bad"
I can not absorb this. Rest in peace dear John.
Laurie
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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As the above begins to show, John's legacy is far more than just a bold and groundbreaking free-soloist. John's FAs and FFAs of routes and boulder problems is more than impressive. During the 1970s and early 1980s his roped ascents were remarkable.
But even beyond his climbing resume, John brought a new sensibility to rock climbing and in the process changed the direction of the "sport." John was a superb athlete and one of the early proponents of specialized training for climbing. I remember him telling me that climbers had barely begun to explore the limits of difficulty and that compared to Olympic level gymnasts, climbers were (at the time) weak and unsophisticated.
He spent a lot of time devising training regiments and the results were more than apparent -- both in John's climbing and in the acceptance of training as part of serious climbing.
Clint's List should include:
The FFA (TR) and subsequent lead of Leave It To Beaver in 1978. Later, John would use the route for training, doing laps on his "Bachar Ladder" strung to the side of the route, between laps on the climb. An impressive, powerful and influential image considering 5.12 was cutting edge at the time.
The Beaver was iconic of the new generation of serious climbers and as much as any route, on most European climber's must do list.
Acid Crack was and remains an impressive FA and lead. Moonbeam Crack and Baby Apes are just a few other seminal routes at Josh that as much as anything made Joshua Tree a destination crag.
I've posted this in John's memorial thread, but I was fortunate enough to be able to shoot John's first lead of Acid Crack. The control of John's movement is difficult to describe.
First Lead of Acid Crack, Joshua Tree
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navblk4
climber
Constitutional, states
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Clint thanks,
are you sure that's not tales of power?
Also thank's for noting Caliente its a beutiful line
but I had to yoyo shorter 5.12a-5.12b prior to a
free TR. I could not remember the name of that
smooth sole wall route.
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navblk4
climber
Constitutional, states
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Swellymom,
I thought the article was well written also, however
I do not believe John was driving the vehicle.
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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It would be interesting to also add the various tv shorts about John. I have a copy of a video of him soloing oz. That's actually how I'd gotten into correspondence with John as he said he'd be trying for years to get a copy of that as his had burned up in the fire and nobody he knew had a copy and apparently the studio couldn't find the original. So I had it converted to dvd and sent it to him. There was a short bit of him playing his sax in the meadows at the end, but unfortunately my monther had taped over that bit.
I'll have to post it up on youtube.
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Walleye
climber
A hard right down Big Tujunga Canyon
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Aldude
Didn't John rate the "Phantom" 13a??
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Lost, was that a 'Great moment in baseball'?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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FA of Equinox, JT, on TR?
Sole Fusion 12a, JT circa '83, a real beauty & early ground up (how else?) Bosch? route.
(um, as I recall...saw the bolts go in, so ...might be true)
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Walter....John in his typical 2 letter grade sandbag style thought the Phantom 12d X and had to siege to get the critical #5 crux stopper and then test it from the ground. I doubt this route has ever been redpointed.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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I'm with you on that, Sewlly, a few misplaced details, but a well done piece that gets to the heart of it.
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Gilberto
Social climber
La Crescenta, CA
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John Bachar 2009 --
John, free of his 51 years old body will now climb forever. Free as always.
Wherever you touch stone you will fill his presence, and if you don't, listen close for the jazzy saxophone sounds blowing in the wind...
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Someone earlier suggested a book about the life of John Bachar. Seems like there is one guy that would fit the bill to write that book. John Long, who not only has the climbing gift but the ability to put it into words.
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Ottawa Doug
Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
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Thanks to all of you for the amazing history/bio.
Cheers,
Doug
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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wierdly, I still half expect John to post up here and correct the errors in our history... but that won't happen...
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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early Tuolumne FAs
Black Magic 5.11d FA 6/1981, John Bachar, Alan Bartlett
Gold Finger 5.12a FA 7/1981, John Bachar
Body and Soul 5.12 FA 7/1981, John Bachar, Mike Lechlinski
Start Bouldering 5.11 FA 7/1981, John Bachar, Mike Lechlinski
Lechlinski Flake 5.11a FA 7/1981, Mike Lechlinski, John Bachar
You Asked For It 5.10 FA 7/1981, John Bachar, Ron Peers
Bachar-Yerian 5.10d FA 8/1981, John Bachar, Dave Yerian
Cheat Stone 5.10 FA 1981, John Bachar, Mike Lechlinski, Dave Yerian
Steep Thrills 5.11a FA 6/1982, John Bachar, Alan Bartlett
Huricane Betsy 5.11d FA 7/1982, John Bachar
Tune Up 5.10a FA 7/1982, John Bachar, Ron Kauk
Inner Vision 5.10b FA 8/1982, John Bachar
Movement in Camouflage 5.10c FA 1982, John Bachar
(from Rock Climbs of Tuolumne Meadows Reid & Falkenstein © 1983)
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Remuus
Trad climber
Cali then; Tetons now
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Another short but cool FA is "Shaft of the Penetrater" at the knobby wall.
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Rankin
climber
North Carolina
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Jul 10, 2009 - 06:27am PT
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bump
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Jul 10, 2009 - 09:03am PT
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I was waiting until Ed listed up the full JB list in Tuolumne, but I wanted to ask people about some obscure stuff:
 someone told me that Latin Lady (5.10a R/X on Low Profile, the streak just left of Black Widow) is a JB route - it says "unknown" in the FA index - anyone know?
is there a JB free solo FA between Darth Vader's Revenge and Sh#t Hooks or somewhere right in there?
did the project Battlefield of the Galactic Giants (or Battlefield of the Cosmic Giants, name?) go to the huge ledge at the base of Lechlinski Flake/You Asked For It and was incomplete higher, or was it a project whose first pitch was incomplete? I remember seeing one bolt about 100' off the deck, I think it was a 3/8" hex-head (probably Diamond Taper) with a Leeper hanger.
for way obscure stuff, no idea if it is related to JB or not, but near Johnny Rock: a little left of Beyond a Shadow of Doubt is a steep flake to leftward traverse to steep section, with a big slab above. No idea if this is a complete line or a project. There is one fixed bong and a single visible bolt (looks like 1/4" plus Leeper), probably 70+ feet up. Definitely would be a 2-pitch route, but may be really runout, not sure on p1 anchor.
Just FYI on Johnny Rock - the bolt is an original beefy 3/8" JB taper eye bolt, like the ones on the bottom of Peace and the ones that used to be on Grenade Launcher, so it should be bomber.
Also just FYI, the bolts on Swinger (5.11+ R/X, JB and Kauk) are still 1/4", we replaced the Lechlinski Flake anchor but didn't go higher. I would assume that the Black Magic (5.11c R/X) bolts are also bad.
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Maysho
climber
Truckee, CA
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Jul 10, 2009 - 09:08am PT
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"Bachars Revenge" is the black streak just right of the Darth Vadar roof. 5.10a. You can actually put some pieces in step over and lead it that way. Often did that while guiding. Soloed it once, when I was on a training run for some other knob action years ago, and that is where Rick Cashner broke a knob and took a bad tumbling fall that would have been were he not so thickly built.
Peter
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dfrost7
Social climber
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Jul 10, 2009 - 11:08pm PT
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Bump for John.
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coz
Trad climber
California
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Jul 11, 2009 - 12:56am PT
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Werner, I remember doing some scary Bacher thing on Elephant rock, a thin crack with bad pro above a ledge, only been done a few times. Do you know the name?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 11, 2009 - 01:11am PT
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I will see Ed atonorrow, and give him his meadows guidebook back so he can make a peritnent list, someone remind me, it I forget!
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The Warbler
climber
the edge of America
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Jul 11, 2009 - 08:13am PT
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Sounds like Moongerms, Coz.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 11, 2009 - 08:22am PT
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I remember there is a pretty good photo of Moongerms, with Gullich.
Not exactly the photo of the climb which comes to mind,
(I think there's another one which is a better portrait of the climb itself)
But I searched the Internet and found these guys talking about it here:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=375380&tn=80
Photo, previously posted by Walleye,
from p.40 of Gullich's book Sportklettern Heute
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Jul 11, 2009 - 10:05am PT
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As impressive as many of his first ascents was John's many first flash ascents of routes that were massively frigged, yo-yoed and hang-dogged on the FA. In many cases, his were the first legitimate ascents of the countless routes he got the second on.
Two important ones (of many) were flash ascents of the Cringe and a route down at Suicide called Tar and Feathers. Both routes are in the 12a range. Tar and Feathers leans and takes piss poor wires in the back of a paper thin, tips lieback flake. This was before TCUs. When I did this climb I lowered off like five times and bounce tested the wired nuts I placed, and half of them ripped out. The idea the JB just slotted those trash nuts and pushed on over tipped out, 11d/12a liebacking, is shocking. The Cringe is just a big arm burner and back then, JB could jam to Pluto and back and not draw a pump.
Another thing he often did out at Josh - and which I joined him on occasion - was to on-sight free solo climbs up to low end 5.10. People solo amazing things these days but little of it is on sight. Bachar was a master of on-sighting, and was especially good out at Josh, where we grew up on stuff like So High, White Rastafarian, and Slashface. Man, even 5.8 climbs became electrifying on the on-sight solo, especially if a few grainy face moves were involved. We mainly stayed with the cracks - stuff you could possibly reverse. I got haired out a thousand times. JB never lost his cool. On Billabong, Intersection Rock, I almost grabbed his leg on the grainy face moves on the first pitch.
And then there was all the highball bouldering, without crash pads, remember. You just couldn't fall. We did that stuff all over Colorado and California and it was always so exciting. JB almost always was first to do the problems because he was the best. I remember taking him on a tour of Roubidoux around 1976, right in the hayday. I took him to Joe Brown boulder (upwards of 40 feet tall), to Autopilot, down the Smooth Soul Wall (again, nearing 40 feet tall), and over to the Circle Crack and JB on sight soloed all of these things. It was remarkable.
So many memories . . .
JL
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 11, 2009 - 07:42pm PT
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(Bumped for Clint.)
It looks like John's birthdate was March 23rd, 1957.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=563237
The link, a birthday thread started by someone who would know, is dated March 24th 2008. In it, John indicates that his birthday was in fact the previous day, the 23rd. Although he may have just been being disingenuous, playing a joke, avoiding attention, or just being John.
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eKat
Trad climber
BITD2
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Jul 11, 2009 - 08:56pm PT
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I'm just gonna say this once, Clint, (thank you, by the way) . . .
On that timeline you need to highlight every day, every week, every year, and every decade with a bright RED LINE that goes directly into my heart.
ThatLittleBachStar was hardwired right into my very soul.
YES! It is possible to love somebody THAT much without having known them in the carnal sense.
My hope is that many of my TacoBrethren knew MyLittleBachStar the way I did.
I hope you knew his:
Brilliance
Generosity
Honor
Charm
Shyness
YES!
Shyness
MyLittleBachStar was shy
MyLittleBachStar was a dichotomy
For all of you out there who spewed disrespect for him, you need to know that he was confident and shy at the same time.
The day I met MyLittleBachStar I KNEW there was more to him than met the eye
I saw through the mystique
We knew we knew
Over the years I have been MyLittleBachStar's biggest defender
Know MyLittleBachStar as I have known him
He owes nobody!
MyLittleBachStar shines through the fog of misunderstanding
MyLittleBachStar smiles
MyLittleBachStar always said he loved me
In that sweet, innocent knowing kind of way
MyLittleBachStar knows. . .
I keep his magic alive.
ox
Kath
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dogtown
climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
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Jul 11, 2009 - 09:13pm PT
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Correction Clint. Caliente 5.12b? it’s 12C maybe 12D. Just for the records.
Bruce.
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Jul 11, 2009 - 09:56pm PT
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al dude, isn't bombs over tokyo rated 12c. it has had at least a second ascent, by myself. shipoopoi
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Jul 12, 2009 - 09:31am PT
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I belayed John when he did the FA of Caliente at Suicide in 1978. I was living up in Idylwild for the summer, working construction.
Darrell Hensel and Kevin Powell had spotted this line and put in the first few bolts. KP and Henny eventually asked me to try it with them, and I got a couple of moves higher, but was stymied trying to get above the short headwall.
John was down from the valley, so I invited him to try it. He fell a few times, but eventually solved the sequence and put in a bolt from a dicey, steep stance. This was the hardest climb at Suicide or Tahquitz to that date, but just another magnificent lead by John.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 12, 2009 - 01:34pm PT
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Black Magic 5.11c, FA 6/1981, John Bachar, Alan Bartlett
Gold Finger 5.12a, FA 7/1981, John Bachar
Start Bouldering 5.11d, FA 7/1981, John Bachar, Mike Lechlinski
Body and Soul 5.12b, FA 7/1981, John Bachar, Mike Lechlinski
Lechlinski Flake 5.11a, FA 7/1981, Mike Lechlinski, John Bachar
You Asked For It 5.10b, FA 7/1981, John Bachar, Ron Peers
Cheat Stone 5.11b, FA 8/1981, John Bachar, Mike Lechlinski, Dave Yerian
Bachar/Yerian 5.11c, FA 8/1981, John Bachar, Dave Yerian
Movement in Camouflage 5.10d, FA 7/1982, John Bachar
Time Up 5.10a, FA 7/1982, John Bachar, Ron Kauk
Inner Vision 5.10b, FA 8/1982, John Bachar
Bachar Solo, Low Profile Dome 5.9 FA 8/1983, John Bachar
Brainwave 5.9, FA 8/1983, John Bachar, Mike Waugh, Darryl Nikahira
Swinger 5.11+, FA 8/1983, John Bachar, Ron Kauk
Count Down 5.12a, FA 1983, John Bachar, Alan Bartlett
Edging Skills or Hospital Bills 5.10, FA 1983, John Bachar
The Flash 5.11, FA 6/1984, John Bachar, Mike Lechlinski
Summertime 5.10a, FA 7/1984, John Bachar, Tom Herbert
Free for All ?, FA 7/1984, John Bachar, Mike Lechlinski
Great White Book Arete 5.10a, FA 8/1984, John Bachar, Kurt Smith
Solitary Confinement 5.9, FA 8/1984, John Bachar
Tomb of the Unknown Climber 5.10c, (chopped Inspiration solo), 1984, John Bachar
Straight Street 5.10a, FA 6/1985, John Bachar, Ed Barry
Run for Cover 5.10b, FA 7/1985, John Bachar, Tom Herbert
The Kid 5.10b, FA 7/1985, Kurt Smith, John Bachar
The Pinhead 5.11b, FA 7/1985, Kurt Smith, John Bachar
Here's Johnny 5.10c, FA 7/1985, John Bachar, Kurt Smith
Ciebola continuation 5.10b, FA 8/1985, John Bachar, Rob Oravetz, Lidija Painkiher
Body Language 5.11b, FA 1985, John Bachar, Tom Herbert, et al.
Orinthology 5.11d, FA 1985, John Bachar, et al.
Decoy 5.11b, FA 7/1986, John Bachar, Tom Herbert
One-Armed Bandit 5.11b, FA 8/1987 John Bachar, Al Swanson (chopped)
Johnny Rock 5.11c, FA 1980s, John Bachar
Bombs Over Tokyo 5.13a, FFA 1980s, John Bachar
Grenade Launcher 5.12c, FA 1980s, John Bachar
Barchar Solo, Stately Pleasure Dome 5.7, FA John Bachar
Battle Field ?, FA John Bachar, unnamed
from Rock Climbing Tuolumne Meadows Reid & Falkenstein © 2006
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Jul 12, 2009 - 03:18pm PT
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Stevie....I should have known you would be the one to bag the second. OK - what did you think - good rating? - runout? Did you see " Bombs Under Tokyo " ...the bolted route below the roof that others have mistaken for the original? Who did you do it with? - did they send? History wants to know!
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jul 13, 2009 - 10:13am PT
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Ricky,
As much as KP and I would have liked to spot Caliente first, we didn't. In fact this is a good segway because I wanted to get some info on Caliente's pre-history as well as the day JB sent it. But rather than clog this thread up with it maybe I'll do it in a seperate one.
Edit: I seem to be screwing up the link and don't have time to look into it right now, I'll try to get the link in later. The Caliente thread is out there if anyone is interested.
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Jul 13, 2009 - 12:02pm PT
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I didn't see his participation in the Survival of the Fittest contests on Clints list. I remember Psycho Kenny and myself would spar with John when he was practicing for the pugil stick competition. IRC, Kenny dotted him more then a few times.
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Cragman
Trad climber
June Lake, California
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Jul 13, 2009 - 02:22pm PT
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That "iconic photo" of JB soloing "The Gift" in Red Rocks, was taken by Eastside photographer John McDonald in 1991.
Dean Rosnau
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 13, 2009 - 02:24pm PT
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1977 - "bought a car". Actually a nice white (?) VW van. And a racing bicycle.
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michaelj
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Jul 13, 2009 - 06:43pm PT
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One thing I've always wondered: When he offered the $10k, did he actually have it?
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Cragman
Trad climber
June Lake, California
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Jul 13, 2009 - 07:03pm PT
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Michaelj, It doesn't matter. Nobody had the balls or the talent to find out!
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WBraun
climber
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Jul 13, 2009 - 07:40pm PT
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Are you sure?
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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Jul 16, 2009 - 06:51am PT
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I'm still trying to absorb the shock of John's death. I didn't know him personally but he was an inspiration to all of us. Though John's climbing achievements are really only one aspect of his life, and surely not the most important, this is a climbing site, so I'd like to elaborate on one segment of his career not included in the original timeline, though briefly mentioned by a couple of other posters.While John's climbing was largely North America focussed he did make an important contribution to European climbing as well. In the late '70s/early '80s German rock climbing was going through a major, and quite controversial (and confrontational) transition from using local cliffs for do-anything-to-get-to the-top-quickly alpine training to an emphasis on free climbing. To help in this process, in the spring of 1981 the "free climbers" held an International Free-Climbing Meet in the then semi-backwater Frankenjura area, inviting top free climbers from elsewhere, including Ron Fawcett from England and J.C. Droyer from France, to give demonstrations and examples of free climbing techniques and prowess. John was the US "representative" at the Meet, and during it, and while remaining in the area after the official Meet ended, added several major free routes to the region. One route in particular was a major breakthrough, initially rated X (5.13a), (though subsequently downgraded to IX--12d)it was by a good bit the hardest route in Germany, and probably in Europe, at the time and had a major impact on the local climbing scene. John named his creation Chasin' the Trane. Though allegedly having a jazz (John Coltrane) derivation, the message was clear--the locals had some catching up to do!!!! It is worth noting that the locals in attendance quickly took up John's challenge, copied and improved upon his training methods, and successfully began freeing harder and harder routes---one Wolfgang Gullich in particular.
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Jul 16, 2009 - 07:23am PT
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"John was the US "representative" at the Meet" is not quite true. He was there with his then partner Mike Lechlinski, with Mari accompanying them on that particular trip. Just keeping things clear
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
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Jul 16, 2009 - 09:06am PT
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"Are you sure?"
Appears as tho at least half of the statement is true, Werner, as no one stepped up.
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Jul 16, 2009 - 06:27pm PT
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Thanks so much Clint for compiling all this info.
It's still hard for me to read any of the posts about John without tears running down, and I wasn't even his friend. That's how special and important his legacy is.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Jul 16, 2009 - 06:49pm PT
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Given that Bachar was the premier solo rock climber in the US at the time, when I first heard his offer, it rang quite hollow. It seemed more like a boast than anything else. Who was out there that was anywhere near as good? Who did he think his competition was?
I've always wondered if, as he grew older, if he ever wished he could take that back.
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