Incredible Hulk Topos Wanted!

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Messages 41 - 60 of total 67 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 26, 2012 - 06:48pm PT
It seems that Fallen leaf is very close to Bee Line. I think your statement is correct. There is an approximate line drawn on this photo:


Photo from the Secor book. Some more info here:
http://books.google.com/books?id=u0sc6cgA1IUC&lpg=PA3&dq=inauthor%3A%22R.%20J.%20Secor%22&pg=PA468#v=onepage&q=Hulk&f=false

I think it is worth buying the book based on how much you climb in the Sierra.

I've only heard of the West Face de Klerk Brugger via Secor. It seems like a very natural line just to the right of Red Dihedral and Lost in the Sun. After the first pitch or two I believe it follows a right facing dihedral system.

From the 5th pitch on my route I had a pretty good view down the corners of the West Face. They look pretty nice and vertical but also full of loose blocks. I don't think it has seen many repeats.

I've done Beeline and its a good warmup route for the day you hike in to the Hulk. I think the best rock is on the left side ie Positive Vibrations.

After that route and then Sun-Spot a good linkup is Tradewinds into Astro-Hulk. Keeps the climbing 5.11b or easier, but pretty sustained.

I've yet to do the Polish Route or Escape from Poland. But I hope to in a couple weeks. The cracks look pretty stellar!



If you end up doing either of the "Fallen" routes or the West Face make sure to report back. I'd love to see some more photos of that side of the hulk.

 Luke
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jul 27, 2012 - 02:21am PT
I have that book. Wanted to see if there is something that was not included in it. I have to go back and do Beeline (last year got a bit off route and than stormed off), and want to try the Polish Route if I get ballsy this year. Looks fantastic.

Again thanks for the nice outline on your blog. I saw you climbed with Konstantin. Guy is a character. His facebook photo is a hall of fame type material.
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2012 - 04:33pm PT
Ok Here's the current photo topo with almost all of the routes.

It still has some errors as I've not been on all of the routes.

Feel free to make comments!


Hulk Photo Topo (full REZ)!

 Luke
lucho

Trad climber
California
Aug 1, 2012 - 05:00pm PT
Luke you forgot the Nalazak 5.13- ?! its a variation to the Venturi Effect, starts at the belay of the second pitch of Venturi and goes for 70 meters to the rap anchor just below the main ledge. My friend Jake and I made the first ascent of this massive pitch last year and would love for someone to repeat it!

Its the crack/corner above the second pitch of Venturi, goes up to a small roof and into an overhang section into the corner/crack just right of the chimney pitch on Positive. Then it pulls onto the arete for the final 11+ section of the pitch. Mostly thin gear and many draws and slings , like 23 of them. 80 meter rope is better than a 70 unless the belayer wants to simul the first part.
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2012 - 07:17pm PT
Awesome! I'm happy to add your line! A while back I had seen some chalk and a bolt to between PV and Venturi and was wondering what the project was. It looked like some wild stemming to a crazy roof. Sweet!

Perhaps you can give me some beta on BlowHard since you were just up there.. I've got a vague idea of where it goes. Did you have a topo?

Have you been on all the routes now? I think I saw you working on Airstream a year or two back. How did that go?

 Luke
lucho

Trad climber
California
Aug 1, 2012 - 08:43pm PT
Blowhard is 7 pitches, the rack is tiny cams to 3 camalot, doubles to 2 if you wish. 80 meter or two ropes to rappel the route. It starts in the crack/corner just left of the Polish route.

Airstream has not gone down for me yet.
snowhazed

Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
Aug 13, 2012 - 09:46pm PT
Wicked! In between Solar Flare and Airstream there is a variation called Solar Burn- don't know alot about it- but it takes the obvious splitter on the wall below the sunspot. Yeah!
NilsDavis

Trad climber
Bishop
Mar 14, 2013 - 02:49pm PT
Has anyone out there done Eye of the Storm? I only know if one repeat in 5 years...and that was with Brent and Andy Puhvel (Brent put it up with me).
Would love some feedback.
Impaler

Social climber
Berkeley
Mar 14, 2013 - 03:47pm PT
What's the crux pitch on it like? I'd love to check it out, but a bit intimidated. Is it possible to bail or pull through on gear at the crux? I'm assuming the crux of the route is in one of the pictures in the alpinist article.
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 14, 2013 - 06:24pm PT
Nils,

I went up the first pitch in 2011 and cleaned out a ton of dirt. Didn't seem like it had been climbed for a good while.

I did the first three pitches last year and the cleaning job seemed to have lured some other traffic. Pretty sure I saw some chalk on at least the first pitch.

The second pitch is pretty scary. Hard to imagine doing it with no bolts. The lack of a third bolt makes the lead not too appealing. Perhaps if the rock cleaned up a bit... I was crimping some pretty friable potato chips! The question my partner and I had was how you guys climbed from the second bolt. Did you keep traversing and then go up, or stick right around/above the 2nd bolt. We both sent the pitch, but climbed much different sections of rock.

The third pitch was super rad and the end was pretty hard. I got super pumped and hung on follow. My partner and I were yet again confused if you guys stayed in the crack or busted out on the arete. We did the later with some crazy face climbing, well above some small cams.

We had already been up on another route in the morning so we ran out of daylight. We left some quicklinks and biners and rapped off with two ropes.

Great photo (not mine) of P3


Vlad, I would be happy to go up there to give it another go this summer. Such a nice long independent line (nice work guys)! Perhaps it would also help to skip the first part and just run up the first few of PV to get a crack at the upper hard pitches. Many ways to skin a cat.

 Luke
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Mar 14, 2013 - 09:16pm PT
Inspiring!
Brian Biega

climber
Truckee, CA
Mar 15, 2013 - 02:57am PT
Hi Nils-

Great job setting up that route! I climbed the first 3 or 4 pitches with John Scott in 2008 or so. Lightning chased us away. Great climbing. Some photos linked below.

Incredible Hulk > Eye of the Storm

Cheers, Brian
snowhazed

Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
Mar 15, 2013 - 04:07am PT
I am so effing psyched to get back out to the hulk this season!!

Need to redpoint Tradewinds (that crux section felt like 5.12- but maybe cuz its the 8th pitch), need to check out Lost In The Sun. Still curious about Solar Burn. After that there are only 12+ routes... which will be a few more years. I'll climb PV, SS, Polish, and TW over and over again though :D

Anyone that wants to go out there in late April hit me up. My partner is having knee surgery.
jaaan

Trad climber
Chamonix, France
Mar 15, 2013 - 05:31am PT
@ Brian Biega

That's really great how you've put the routes on that photo, Brian. Is that really the start of Positive Vibes? We started up the cracks to the right. It was covered in chalk.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Mar 15, 2013 - 06:42am PT
Brian,

I think you meant this link for Eye of the Storm trip photos:
http://aboutmyadventure.com/directories/s/scott/photos/eots/index.htm

Very nice photos!

(I didn't realize some of the text links on the page were clickable when
the white hand cursor appears).
Brian Biega

climber
Truckee, CA
Mar 15, 2013 - 09:10am PT
Hi Clint-

Hope all is well! I have updated the link/links above.

Will have to get back out climbing sometime!

Hi jaaan- I guess there are a few ways to get up there... I have not been up there for a few years. Need to go again soon.

Cheers, Brian
JakeW

Big Wall climber
CA
Mar 15, 2013 - 11:47am PT
Yo Nils. Matt and I did Eye a few years back. Was awesome! I fell once on the crux and Matt onsighted. I found a pitch or two leading to the crux a bit scary.

On a different note, Lucho and I would love for someone to repeat our route Nalazak which is mentioned above. Apparently we didn't spray enough and no one else has enjoyed it yet, that we know of. It's really good. It's also pretty sheltered from the winds, and only a pitch up...a good option for those days when the weather is less than ideal or you're too relaxed to worry about summiting.
NilsDavis

Trad climber
Bishop
Jun 12, 2013 - 01:51am PT
Jake I'm not sure what pitches you found leading to the crux a bit wobbly. Surprised you'd say that, but if you are, then I'm sure my memory is a bit warped, cuz you'd know. Yea, I guess there are a few spots that are "engaging." Although we tried to minimize that.
Nalazak sounds super quality. Has anyone repeated that yet?
How's the activity at the Hulk this year? Seems like it'd be way busy up there with such a dry winter/spring.
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 24, 2013 - 10:43pm PT
Looks to be a super busy season for the Hulk. Hopefully people are playing by the rules and getting a permit.

There were 7 parties on Positive Vibes this past Saturday... Insane!

Eye of the Storm saw a little bit of traffic.

Grabbed this shot from Tradewinds:

Caroline on the 5.11+ splitter on Eye of the Storm
Caroline on the 5.11+ splitter on Eye of the Storm
Credit: cultureshock

Enjoy,

Luke
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jun 25, 2013 - 12:45am PT
Incredible Hulk catching last rays of sun
Incredible Hulk catching last rays of sun
Credit: Vitaliy M.

Some action across the street
Some action across the street
Credit: Vitaliy M.

This cultureshock guy not only posts about Hulk, but even climbs on it...
This cultureshock guy not only posts about Hulk, but even climbs on it!
Credit: Vitaliy M.

People having a good time all around
People having a good time all around
Credit: Vitaliy M.

People addicted to crack!
People addicted to crack!
Credit: Vitaliy M.

Hulk back in 1938 when there were no crowds on PV
Hulk back in 1938 when there were no crowds on PV
Credit: Vitaliy M.
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