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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jul 27, 2012 - 02:21am PT
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I have that book. Wanted to see if there is something that was not included in it. I have to go back and do Beeline (last year got a bit off route and than stormed off), and want to try the Polish Route if I get ballsy this year. Looks fantastic.
Again thanks for the nice outline on your blog. I saw you climbed with Konstantin. Guy is a character. His facebook photo is a hall of fame type material.
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2012 - 04:33pm PT
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Ok Here's the current photo topo with almost all of the routes.
It still has some errors as I've not been on all of the routes.
Feel free to make comments!
Hulk Photo Topo (full REZ)!
 Luke
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lucho
Trad climber
California
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Luke you forgot the Nalazak 5.13- ?! its a variation to the Venturi Effect, starts at the belay of the second pitch of Venturi and goes for 70 meters to the rap anchor just below the main ledge. My friend Jake and I made the first ascent of this massive pitch last year and would love for someone to repeat it!
Its the crack/corner above the second pitch of Venturi, goes up to a small roof and into an overhang section into the corner/crack just right of the chimney pitch on Positive. Then it pulls onto the arete for the final 11+ section of the pitch. Mostly thin gear and many draws and slings , like 23 of them. 80 meter rope is better than a 70 unless the belayer wants to simul the first part.
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2012 - 07:17pm PT
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Awesome! I'm happy to add your line! A while back I had seen some chalk and a bolt to between PV and Venturi and was wondering what the project was. It looked like some wild stemming to a crazy roof. Sweet!
Perhaps you can give me some beta on BlowHard since you were just up there.. I've got a vague idea of where it goes. Did you have a topo?
Have you been on all the routes now? I think I saw you working on Airstream a year or two back. How did that go?
Luke
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lucho
Trad climber
California
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Blowhard is 7 pitches, the rack is tiny cams to 3 camalot, doubles to 2 if you wish. 80 meter or two ropes to rappel the route. It starts in the crack/corner just left of the Polish route.
Airstream has not gone down for me yet.
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Aug 13, 2012 - 09:46pm PT
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Wicked! In between Solar Flare and Airstream there is a variation called Solar Burn- don't know alot about it- but it takes the obvious splitter on the wall below the sunspot. Yeah!
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NilsDavis
Trad climber
Bishop
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Mar 14, 2013 - 02:49pm PT
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Has anyone out there done Eye of the Storm? I only know if one repeat in 5 years...and that was with Brent and Andy Puhvel (Brent put it up with me).
Would love some feedback.
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Impaler
Social climber
Berkeley
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Mar 14, 2013 - 03:47pm PT
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What's the crux pitch on it like? I'd love to check it out, but a bit intimidated. Is it possible to bail or pull through on gear at the crux? I'm assuming the crux of the route is in one of the pictures in the alpinist article.
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 14, 2013 - 06:24pm PT
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Nils,
I went up the first pitch in 2011 and cleaned out a ton of dirt. Didn't seem like it had been climbed for a good while.
I did the first three pitches last year and the cleaning job seemed to have lured some other traffic. Pretty sure I saw some chalk on at least the first pitch.
The second pitch is pretty scary. Hard to imagine doing it with no bolts. The lack of a third bolt makes the lead not too appealing. Perhaps if the rock cleaned up a bit... I was crimping some pretty friable potato chips! The question my partner and I had was how you guys climbed from the second bolt. Did you keep traversing and then go up, or stick right around/above the 2nd bolt. We both sent the pitch, but climbed much different sections of rock.
The third pitch was super rad and the end was pretty hard. I got super pumped and hung on follow. My partner and I were yet again confused if you guys stayed in the crack or busted out on the arete. We did the later with some crazy face climbing, well above some small cams.
We had already been up on another route in the morning so we ran out of daylight. We left some quicklinks and biners and rapped off with two ropes.
Great photo (not mine) of P3
Vlad, I would be happy to go up there to give it another go this summer. Such a nice long independent line (nice work guys)! Perhaps it would also help to skip the first part and just run up the first few of PV to get a crack at the upper hard pitches. Many ways to skin a cat.
Luke
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Mar 14, 2013 - 09:16pm PT
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Inspiring!
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Brian Biega
climber
Truckee, CA
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Mar 15, 2013 - 02:57am PT
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Hi Nils-
Great job setting up that route! I climbed the first 3 or 4 pitches with John Scott in 2008 or so. Lightning chased us away. Great climbing. Some photos linked below.
Incredible Hulk > Eye of the Storm
Cheers, Brian
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Mar 15, 2013 - 04:07am PT
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I am so effing psyched to get back out to the hulk this season!!
Need to redpoint Tradewinds (that crux section felt like 5.12- but maybe cuz its the 8th pitch), need to check out Lost In The Sun. Still curious about Solar Burn. After that there are only 12+ routes... which will be a few more years. I'll climb PV, SS, Polish, and TW over and over again though :D
Anyone that wants to go out there in late April hit me up. My partner is having knee surgery.
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jaaan
Trad climber
Chamonix, France
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Mar 15, 2013 - 05:31am PT
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@ Brian Biega
That's really great how you've put the routes on that photo, Brian. Is that really the start of Positive Vibes? We started up the cracks to the right. It was covered in chalk.
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Brian Biega
climber
Truckee, CA
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Mar 15, 2013 - 09:10am PT
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Hi Clint-
Hope all is well! I have updated the link/links above.
Will have to get back out climbing sometime!
Hi jaaan- I guess there are a few ways to get up there... I have not been up there for a few years. Need to go again soon.
Cheers, Brian
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JakeW
Big Wall climber
CA
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Mar 15, 2013 - 11:47am PT
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Yo Nils. Matt and I did Eye a few years back. Was awesome! I fell once on the crux and Matt onsighted. I found a pitch or two leading to the crux a bit scary.
On a different note, Lucho and I would love for someone to repeat our route Nalazak which is mentioned above. Apparently we didn't spray enough and no one else has enjoyed it yet, that we know of. It's really good. It's also pretty sheltered from the winds, and only a pitch up...a good option for those days when the weather is less than ideal or you're too relaxed to worry about summiting.
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NilsDavis
Trad climber
Bishop
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Jun 12, 2013 - 01:51am PT
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Jake I'm not sure what pitches you found leading to the crux a bit wobbly. Surprised you'd say that, but if you are, then I'm sure my memory is a bit warped, cuz you'd know. Yea, I guess there are a few spots that are "engaging." Although we tried to minimize that.
Nalazak sounds super quality. Has anyone repeated that yet?
How's the activity at the Hulk this year? Seems like it'd be way busy up there with such a dry winter/spring.
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 24, 2013 - 10:43pm PT
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Looks to be a super busy season for the Hulk. Hopefully people are playing by the rules and getting a permit.
There were 7 parties on Positive Vibes this past Saturday... Insane!
Eye of the Storm saw a little bit of traffic.
Grabbed this shot from Tradewinds:
Enjoy,
Luke
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jun 25, 2013 - 12:45am PT
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2013 - 10:43am PT
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A few more photos to entice people to get on Nalazak:
Enjoy,
Luke
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