ethics question

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exposeur

Trad climber
california?
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 5, 2009 - 09:03pm PT
so, if a climb is top-rope-able, placing bolts to make it lead-able creates unnecessary damage to the rock, yet it happens all the time without much complaint. why do i never see this come up in ethics debates?
-toprope tough guy
LuckyPink

climber
the last bivy
Jul 5, 2009 - 09:09pm PT
cuz you're not lookin!
it's soup de jour at the taco

http://www.supertopo.com/forumsearch.php?ftr=bolt+ethics
HighDesertDJ

Trad climber
Arid-zona
Jul 5, 2009 - 09:19pm PT
Because people think leading is cool. That's pretty much it.
Port

Trad climber
San Diego
Jul 5, 2009 - 09:24pm PT
"Because people think leading is cool. That's pretty much it".....yup.
JoeSimo

Trad climber
New York
Jul 5, 2009 - 10:25pm PT
Also seems like a climb doesnt count unless it was on lead. If I tell people I climbed a 5.12 on top rope they roll their eyes and say "whatever". If I tell them I did the same route clipping bolts its an amazing send. If I tell them I did the same route on trad they sh#t themselves.

exposeur

Trad climber
california?
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 5, 2009 - 11:14pm PT
yes. three cheers for toproping! hip hip!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Jul 6, 2009 - 02:03am PT
any climb can be top roped, but it requires placing anchors anyways. still the same question?
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jul 6, 2009 - 10:39am PT
What you described is "sport climbing." They say it's gaining in popularity.
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Jul 6, 2009 - 01:34pm PT
Do you remember the first time you got to drive without your dad in the car, the first time you rode your bike without training wheels, your first paycheck which helped you pay for your first rent away from home? That's why, life just feels better without a "toprope"!
Chinchen

climber
Flagstaff?
Jul 6, 2009 - 01:37pm PT
Bullsh#t.
exposeur

Trad climber
california?
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 6, 2009 - 01:53pm PT
i don't know if ANY climb can be toproped..
i also prefer leading to toproping, believe it or not..
but i don't mind toproping. just get a lazy/sleepy belayer to make things more interesting.
i'm not opposed to placing bolts on rappel. the forethought it affords can end up saving the rock from further drilling (refer to growing up on south face of half dome). and if the tr is a big pain to set up.. there are reasons to bolt.
but if a climb is easily toproped, bolts exist solely for the ego of someone who thinks that bolts aren't training wheels. which they are. but i love em. in moderation.
Scared Silly

Trad climber
UT
Jul 6, 2009 - 01:55pm PT
Ethics are a bit like an erection, no matter how well intended, they are prone to sudden deflation.

Dougal Haston


That said well established top rope climbs are usually not retro bolted unless done by sone ignoramuses. Places like Devil's Lake is a great a example. Further, most of the anchors for setting up ropes use gear or a near by tree.
Messages 1 - 12 of total 12 in this topic
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