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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Mar 12, 2010 - 03:50am PT
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It's clear from all available documentation related to both Sanborn and CRSP that the focus and emphasis was and is on "low impact climbing". So yeah, bolts and bolting are likely to be a problem and hot button issue. Camo'ing existing and new bolts would likely help, but maybe after all this Peregrine business some of you and the Access Fund should try working with both parks to update / develop their Climbing Management Plans (CMP) and establish cohorerent policies around fixed pro that are more to your liking.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 12, 2010 - 05:39pm PT
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Think I recognize "ZPG Now"! (5.12b) and Eddie Tharpe's "Mother Lode" down in Devil's Canyon below the Aquarian Valley. A long way away from CRSP and Sanborn-Skyline County Park. Only now you'll have to confront the green meanies of the MROSD. Lots of luck!
The big problem with bolts at Castle is that State Parks has absolutely refused to develop a coherent bolting policy for R&R of existing anchors and protection bolts. They won't even talk about it. That's why the CR Climber's Committee was disbanded back around 2001. Of course, this is hearsay on my part, but it's dang accurate hearsay. Just try to talk to Ranger J. Rule about liability issues when a bolt at CRSP fails due to lack of proper maintenance. I can guarantee you he's not going to be happy about the direction the conversation is taking. This is the next big issue after the Raptor Closure. Boy are some sparks going to fly.
All I said was that until now climbers have not been organized like ROMP, SSA, or, for that matter, the Audubon Society, or the California Native Plants Organization. Didn't say anything about the policies of those groups per se.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Mar 12, 2010 - 05:44pm PT
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Yeah, I've climbed 'Chewy's Lookout' on the Mother Lode. 5.10b I think. Another route is Green Thumb. 5.11 something...
The bolted rig in your picture is Chewy's I believe.
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dcaunt
Trad climber
Chico, CA
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Mar 12, 2010 - 06:26pm PT
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Man that is some nice looking rock in those pics Dr. Sprock. Wish I was there, where?
You see, there really are a lot of other climbing areas that the ranger Rule doesn't frequent. Besides, the routes at Summit and Indian are way too exposed, good for classes and high schoolers and a bust once a week.
I lived in the day of Miles and he was a sneaky one, I haven't climbed around there since the new ranger Rule has taken over, but it sounds like he is picking up where Miles left off.
I have to dig up my old photos of Miles with a Flame thrower, and Miles handcuffing young potheads, and Miles sniffing out little dogs from girls purses, and Miles lurking around every corner of Indian rock. Oh, and Bruce with a .......mask and ......brush.
And that is why these obscure climbing areas came about.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Mar 13, 2010 - 11:07am PT
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Haha! good stuff, Dave.
Feel free to post up pics of when you were on the scene. I've admired the routes you guys put up!
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dcaunt
Trad climber
Chico, CA
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Mar 14, 2010 - 06:56pm PT
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Drugged up some old photos of rangers in action at Castle rock. These pics were taken covertly from behind the bushes. The stories of the rangers sneaking around really are true, BEWARE!
Who is that bubba brush wielding masked man?
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Mar 14, 2010 - 11:19pm PT
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I just got back from Last Temptation Cliff. Good times.
Damn, Dave, talk about old school...Got more?
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dcaunt
Trad climber
Chico, CA
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Mar 15, 2010 - 01:00am PT
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Bluering, who are you? I see you making comments on all my threads. You sure seem to like my routes and that is a good thing. Do I know you? Have we climbed before?
Temptation cliff gets max sun late in the day, bet it was nice out there today. I kinda miss climbing at Castle, being in Chico its a bit far to go for the afternoon. I use to live up on skyline down off Chapman road for a good 4 years so I got a lot of time in climbing at Castle. Use to boulder there like crazy, putting up several classic problems. Maybe we should start a new thread about Castle bouldering?
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 15, 2010 - 02:02am PT
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That's me wirebrushing what later became the "Domino Theory" (V4) traverse down in the Graveyard west of the main Castle Rock. Lot more jungle down there then than today. In fact, the trail runs right under the "Domino Theory" making for a crappy landing.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Mar 15, 2010 - 12:54pm PT
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Dave, nah, I've never met you. Just see you name on a bunch of routes I climb.
If you're in the area and need a partner, I'm game.
Side-note: Are those Condors out at Last Temptation??? My buddy swears they were turkey vultures but these guys (about 7 of them) were buzzing us as we climbed, like the ones at the Pinns. The did have white feathers on the bottoms of their wings too.
I'll try to download a pic or two.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Mar 21, 2010 - 05:45pm PT
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bluey
If you really mean Condors plural: extremely unlikely since the nearest nesting sites are in the Pinnacles. Castle Rock would be at the limit of their one day range.
They're HUGE: 8 - 9 ft wingspan
The white underwing marking is close to the leading edge of the wing
An UGLY variously colored skull but not red
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/California_Condor
Plenty of Turkey Vultures around on warm days.
They have light underwing markings. About half the underwing is light colored along the trailing edge.
Face and sometimes top of head is scarlet.
Only about 3/5 the size of Condors. 5 - 6ft wingspan. Still very large up close!
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Turkey_Vulture
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 28, 2010 - 04:05am PT
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No, they're Turkey Vultures at Last Temptation, but plenty of 'em fur sur. They devoured a dead coyote up in back of "Live Monkey Brain" and it's bones are still working their way down toward the top of the cliff. You know you know the area when you can keep track of the carrion and the mountain lion kills.
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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The process seems to be working at a higher level. The Access Fund is starting to facilitate a dialogue between wildlife biologists, who will indeed be making recommendations, it appears, favorable to the interests of climbers. So, I think that Healyje is right in counseling moderation and less inflamatory language.
Anything us peons can do in the meantime ? I guess I should finally join the Access Fund ..
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Boy those shots of Aquarian Valley look cool- motherlode? Never been there.
I used to scour those hills looking for climbable rock. There's more out there than you'd think, especially once you start bouldering and top roping rather than look for short leads.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Here is an update I received from someone working with agencies involved;
All, Status to date, with opinion from Department of Fish and Game and waiting for outcome of meeting with Glen Stewart of the Santa Cruz Predatory Bird Research Group. Now I will need to talk to Carrie at DFG. Will also ask Don to talk with Gavin Emmons at Pinnacles. Will keep you posted.
I'll leave his name out for now. He does do work for the AF.
And Rob, the AF is doing a lot right now for us, so it wouldn't hurt to return the favor and join.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2010 - 04:59pm PT
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Sounds like County Parks is still balking, however. Wait and see! In the mean time, join the AF.
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Aug 19, 2010 - 08:12pm PT
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I want to mini trax qll the routes here, when can we get in there?
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Aug 19, 2010 - 08:17pm PT
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People are still talking about it. And the AF is involved. There may be progress being made. Stay tuned. No timeline yet. But there are people working on it. E-mail me and I can forward you some of the details.
A gate may go in at the road that is closable at night to keep the glass chuckers out at night.
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nutjob
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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Aug 19, 2010 - 08:31pm PT
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I miss Tree Surgeon....good times. But the glass up top was nasty.
I'll keep my fingers crossed for the positive dialog. Summit Rock was my favorite spot when I was a frequenter of CRSP.
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Dec 16, 2010 - 02:20pm PT
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Bluey, Bruce, Anybody, Any action on this?
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