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ryanb
climber
Seattle, WA
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Godzilla is hard to beat but the lower section has been wet the last few times i have been near it which takes some of the fun out of it...
Else Where...Penny Lane@ Smoke Bluffs, Squamish. Celestial Groove@ Pearly Gates, Leavenworth.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona, Spain
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Reeds Direct is pretty hard to beat. High Exposure at the Gunks and Shipley's Shivering Shimy at Seneca Rocks are also great YDS 5.9's. What's the rating of Solid Gold in Josh? Can't remember.
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My Name Is Drew
Big Wall climber
Dogtown, LosAngeles, CA.
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First 5 pitches of Central Pillar Of Frenzy on Middle Cathedral.
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snyd
Sport climber
Lexington, KY
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Rhodomaster said: "Dopey Duck at Shortoff- 200' of steep jug bliss!"
Yeah dude! For sure this thing rates with any of the pitches out west.
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wiclimber
Trad climber
devil's lake, wi
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The Line, Leap
1st p Hair City, Eldo....my fav
1st p Cest La Vie, Eldo....short but real sweet.
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Nicole
Trad climber
SoCal
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Haven't been to many places, but from where I've been-
Flower of High Rank, Suicide
Whodunnit, Tahquitz
Ace of Spades, Josh
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darod
Trad climber
South Side Billburg
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mcreel, HighE is a 5.6. You're probably refering to Directissima, that shares the last pitch with the former. and is rated 5.9. That 5.7 arete pitch must be one of the most beautiful places in the area.
However there are much better 5.9s in the Gunks, like MF for instance in the Trapps, or Roseland in the Nears, just to name a couple...
Cheers,
darod.
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nick d
Trad climber
nm
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The Mace in Sedona, it takes all manner of climbing technique to get up. And hey, just cant beat the desert sandstone and HUGE fear factor!
MS
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Here's a good 5.9. Probably the hardest 5.9 in the universe. It's called Pass Or Flail. My brother Greg made the first ascent in 1965, on sight - no falls or frigging of course - which is how it was done back then. He said it was pretty hard, maybe even 5.9. I think I made the second ascent about a decade later with Kim Miller. Thought it was pretty stiff for 5.9 - more like 5.11! Although it's only about 40 feet tall, it really is a good climb on bullet quartzite, comparable to Oli's gem, Supremacy Crack in Eldo. It's rated 11d in the guidebook now.
5.9 used to be hardddd!
-JelloBelly
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Dragon with Matches
climber
Bamboo Grove
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My favorite Yose 9's are represented above: 3rd Pillar yeah, Reeds Direct, and the 2nd pitch of Central Pillar. Love the sustained value on all those.
Kinda surprised the Eldo freaks haven't mentioned the last pitch of Over the Hill. I do like the Hair City nomination too.
5.9 is a wonderful grade. Seldom too easy, seldom too hard. On harder routes I often find I had the most fun on the 5.9 pitches.
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wiclimber
Trad climber
devil's lake, wi
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Over the Hill does have a nice last pitch. It could be a bit more sustained for classic status. Lots of rests on the diagonal features after each move.
Great position though.
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Jude Bischoff
Ice climber
Palm Springs
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April Fools The Leap
Colorado Crack Josh
Lucky Streaks Toulumne (The crux seems to be that second 5.9 pitch) The 10b was one thin move.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Lots of good choices, the mines of Moria pitches on Tricks of the trade, are right up there, too.
the incredible handcrack was originally rated 5.9 (still is, really) it's good, if not universally good.
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Wild Bill
climber
Ca
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The Line, if we're talking one climb, 5.9 on every pitch. I love it's steepness, features, varied crack and setting.
How about a slab: Crest Jewel. Like Lucky Streaks, it's only got a few thin 5.10 moves. (Heck, in the prior universe Jello describes above, where 5.9 = .11d, Crest Jewel is only a 5.5). The location is, well, on the rim of the coolest valley in the world.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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How about Kor's and Komito's old route "Mr. President," on Lumpy Ridge..?
Oh wait, that's not 5.9 anymore, is it.
The California Needles has lots of good 5.9. I like the South Face Route on The Warlock. Did I see above where someone mentioned Igor Unchained is harder than 5.9?? Wow. Keep that up and Ankles Away will be 5.13 one of these days..
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oldcragger
Trad climber
Truckee,CA
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Sidewinder in Joshua Tree is pretty fun but I'd also have to vote for Flower of High Rank and Open Book at Suicide/Taquitz.
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10b4me
Trad climber
Hell A
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I've heard The Line is just that....a very nice line.
Touch and Go in Josh is one of the best five-nines around(imo).
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leinosaur
Trad climber
burns flat, ok
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Frikkin' rad, y'all!
Igor good, Igor good!
Igor Unchained at the Needles. The road off the highway was closed, and it was well worth the extra three miles each way.
We knocked off a bunch of the others, too, on my first big trip to the "far west." It's cool to share the joy, just got back on Sunday from the three-week whirlwind.
Among many others, we got on the Mace (Sedona), White Punks on Dope & Igor Unchained (both CA Needles) then Nutcracker w/ 5.9 start, Reed's Direct, and the Crest Jewel. I'd call White Punks 5.8 and the Jewel 5.10, though.
(sigh.) What a trip. Beats today's fun of arguing personal insurance matters over the phone, all to hell! Grumble, grumble.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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p3 on Gripper
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Tahoe climber
Trad climber
a dark-green forester out west
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The Line at The Leap
Whodunit at Tahquitz
Carjacker at Mayhem
Raw Meat at ERock (sentimental reasons mostly - where I learned how to hand jam!)
-A
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