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| Messages 1 - 98 of total 98 in this topic |
Andrew Klein
Novice climber
CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 16, 2002 - 01:46pm PT
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I climbed 3rd Pillar on Dana a few weeks ago and another climber in the area said the last pitch was touted as the "best 5.9 in the universe." I'll admit it was a great pitch (with good exposure, view, variety) but probably not the best 5.9 in the universe or even California. My favorite "5.9" pitch in Yosemite is probably the "double crack pitch" on Half Dome to Big Sandy. My favorite 5.9 pitch in Cali is "Flowers of High Rank" at Suicide (as you can see I am partial to cracks). In any case, what is your "best 5.9 pitch?"
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Texas Speed
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 16, 2002 - 02:09pm PT
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I don't have many Yosemite climbs under my belt, so I will go with a Washington classic. Godzilla at Index, WA. Not the best position, but excellent sustained 5.9 climbing.
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ak
Novice climber
vacuum of the midwest
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 16, 2002 - 02:22pm PT
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The first pitch of Nutcracker is probably my favorite 5.9, or the 3rd of Commitment- although it's really just that way funky roof move, and then 5.8 lieback to the top.
As far as best in the Universe, I have to break the rules and go with the 5.10 first pitch of Serenity Crack. Those old piton scars are awesome, and then that beautiful crack system.
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Wide Crack Lover
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 16, 2002 - 02:32pm PT
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3rd pitch of the Ebutt of LCR
(not MCR- LCR)
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AJ
Novice climber
so cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 16, 2002 - 02:48pm PT
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FLower of High Rank was a dream climb for me as a kid. I remember watching my dad lead it and thinking it looked like the coolest thing in the world.. and it is :)
Godzilla at Index, yeah, very close second. It's also Pitch 1 of Slow Children, my favorite 5.10 anywhere. Pitch 3 is the standout- a perfectly uniform 100' finger crack, with a crux final move. The pitch is like the crux of serenity crack, but for a full pitch.
Gripper (P3 is 5.9) and Reed's Direct in the valley are fun.
The Needles deserve mention, but not too many 5.9s. Airy Interlude and Thin Ice are fun 5.10 minuses. Trade routes, yes, but popular for good reason.
All these routes have great protection, by the way.
Cheers, AJ
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Single-digit hack
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 16, 2002 - 03:12pm PT
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Recompense, Cathedral Ledge
Directissima, Gunks
Whodunnit, Tahquitz
Open Book, Tahquitz
Steck-Salathe, Sentinel (5.9d)
Crest Jewel, North Dome (really 5.9)
South Face, North Dome (ditto)
Reed's Direct
Said & Done, Granite Mtn (with Beaver Cleaver exit, include last P of Reunion for added difficulty)
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dufas
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 16, 2002 - 03:47pm PT
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my favorite 5.9's:
third of Igor Unchained (Needles)
second of Reed's Direct
third of White Punks on Dope (Needles, may be 5.8)
third of Scimtar (Leap)
third of Innersanctum (Needles)
may be a trend here for third pitches.
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Karl Baba
Novice climber
Yosemite
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Oct 16, 2002 - 09:39pm PT
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FYI The first pitch of Serenity used to be rated 5.9 (my first 5.9 lead!, an hour after my first 5.8 lead, Bishop's terrace)
Moby Dick Center used to be 5.9 as well and gets my vote along with Reed Direct, and stuff like it.
That first pitch of the Stovelegs deserves it more though due to the exposure and history along with bomber jams.
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radical
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 17, 2002 - 12:29pm PT
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Wow what a great list of climbs. Although I am not sure there is any one pitch on Whodunit or Open Book that compares to the best of Yosemite.
That first pitch of Whodunnit is quite the pitch though.
Igor is nice to, but the third pitch I thought was way harder than 5.9
I think the 3rd pitch of the Rostrum is definitly up there. They call it 10b, but it was easier than a lot of valley 5.9
Another great 5.9 pitch is North Overhang in Josh. That thing scared the crap out of me.
But the best for me are Reeds and the 3rd pitch of Gripper
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Karl Baba
Novice climber
Yosemite
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Oct 17, 2002 - 12:45pm PT
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Third pitch of the Rostrum is awesome but used to be rated 10d! Many Rostrum pitches got downrated. The first couple moves on that third pitch are kinda hard but you don't think about it when you're there since you have plenty to worry about up higher!
PEace
Karl
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jc
Novice climber
CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 17, 2002 - 12:58pm PT
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my favorite 5.9 pitches:
Combining P1+2 of the Green Spur, Eldorado Canyon
P2 of Central Pillar of Frenzy, MCR
the 2nd to last pitch of Astroman- after all the hard stuff below, you feel like a hero here
and, of course...
the last pitch of the 3rd Pillar of Dana
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demented
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 17, 2002 - 01:33pm PT
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y'all are missing it.
the answer is every inch of lucky streaks
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AJ
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 17, 2002 - 01:45pm PT
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On the Lamb, in Tuolumne
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JL
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 17, 2002 - 01:51pm PT
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Don't forget Hot Buttered Rump at Suicide. Nothing quite like it, though it seems more like 5.10d than 5.9 (guidebook rating).
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WC
Novice climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 17, 2002 - 01:54pm PT
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As far as the valley goes my personal favs are 2nd pitch of Reeds Direct and Moby Dick Center. (though I guess MD Center is rated 10a due to it's start)
Outside of the valley my three favorite 5.9s are:
1. Dr. Rubo's Wild Ride, Sedona AZ. Fun 4 pitch route. The 5.9 crux is a #2 camalot size crack that climbs through a small bulge, then continues for another 50-60ft. One of the few Sedona routes without an offwidth/chimney. (though Sedona's 5.9 offwidths and chimneys shouldn't be missed!)
2. Cosmosis, Boulder Canyon. Great route that certainly kicked my butt...
3. Generic Crack, Indian Creek. Lots of perfect hands (#2 camalot) with two technical pods to break up the hand jams. (I have seen this route also rated 10-.
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demented
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 17, 2002 - 03:52pm PT
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i concur on y9ur comment- hot buttered rump feeling 10d..
but it DOES NOT belong on this list
the list it belongs on is
5.9 squeeze jobs that spank well-protected low angle thin crack weeinies like myself
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dufas
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 17, 2002 - 03:55pm PT
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for demented's list of 5.9 squeeze fun, add the first of English Breakfast Crack.
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rhodomaster
Novice climber
otto, nc
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 17, 2002 - 05:49pm PT
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Dopey Duck at Shortoff- 200' of steep jug bliss!
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quart
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 17, 2002 - 09:58pm PT
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Commisioner Buttress-1st pitch.
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clustiere
Trad climber
Durango, CO
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single digit hack sooo right on!!!!!!!!!!!
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ryanb
climber
Seattle, WA
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Godzilla is hard to beat but the lower section has been wet the last few times i have been near it which takes some of the fun out of it...
Else Where...Penny Lane@ Smoke Bluffs, Squamish. Celestial Groove@ Pearly Gates, Leavenworth.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona, Spain
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Reeds Direct is pretty hard to beat. High Exposure at the Gunks and Shipley's Shivering Shimy at Seneca Rocks are also great YDS 5.9's. What's the rating of Solid Gold in Josh? Can't remember.
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My Name Is Drew
Big Wall climber
Dogtown, LosAngeles, CA.
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First 5 pitches of Central Pillar Of Frenzy on Middle Cathedral.
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snyd
Sport climber
Lexington, KY
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Rhodomaster said: "Dopey Duck at Shortoff- 200' of steep jug bliss!"
Yeah dude! For sure this thing rates with any of the pitches out west.
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wiclimber
Trad climber
devil's lake, wi
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The Line, Leap
1st p Hair City, Eldo....my fav
1st p Cest La Vie, Eldo....short but real sweet.
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Nicole
Trad climber
SoCal
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Haven't been to many places, but from where I've been-
Flower of High Rank, Suicide
Whodunnit, Tahquitz
Ace of Spades, Josh
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darod
Trad climber
South Side Billburg
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mcreel, HighE is a 5.6. You're probably refering to Directissima, that shares the last pitch with the former. and is rated 5.9. That 5.7 arete pitch must be one of the most beautiful places in the area.
However there are much better 5.9s in the Gunks, like MF for instance in the Trapps, or Roseland in the Nears, just to name a couple...
Cheers,
darod.
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nick d
Trad climber
nm
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The Mace in Sedona, it takes all manner of climbing technique to get up. And hey, just cant beat the desert sandstone and HUGE fear factor!
MS
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Here's a good 5.9. Probably the hardest 5.9 in the universe. It's called Pass Or Flail. My brother Greg made the first ascent in 1965, on sight - no falls or frigging of course - which is how it was done back then. He said it was pretty hard, maybe even 5.9. I think I made the second ascent about a decade later with Kim Miller. Thought it was pretty stiff for 5.9 - more like 5.11! Although it's only about 40 feet tall, it really is a good climb on bullet quartzite, comparable to Oli's gem, Supremacy Crack in Eldo. It's rated 11d in the guidebook now.
5.9 used to be hardddd!
-JelloBelly
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Dragon with Matches
climber
Bamboo Grove
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My favorite Yose 9's are represented above: 3rd Pillar yeah, Reeds Direct, and the 2nd pitch of Central Pillar. Love the sustained value on all those.
Kinda surprised the Eldo freaks haven't mentioned the last pitch of Over the Hill. I do like the Hair City nomination too.
5.9 is a wonderful grade. Seldom too easy, seldom too hard. On harder routes I often find I had the most fun on the 5.9 pitches.
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wiclimber
Trad climber
devil's lake, wi
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Over the Hill does have a nice last pitch. It could be a bit more sustained for classic status. Lots of rests on the diagonal features after each move.
Great position though.
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Jude Bischoff
Ice climber
Palm Springs
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April Fools The Leap
Colorado Crack Josh
Lucky Streaks Toulumne (The crux seems to be that second 5.9 pitch) The 10b was one thin move.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Lots of good choices, the mines of Moria pitches on Tricks of the trade, are right up there, too.
the incredible handcrack was originally rated 5.9 (still is, really) it's good, if not universally good.
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Wild Bill
climber
Ca
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The Line, if we're talking one climb, 5.9 on every pitch. I love it's steepness, features, varied crack and setting.
How about a slab: Crest Jewel. Like Lucky Streaks, it's only got a few thin 5.10 moves. (Heck, in the prior universe Jello describes above, where 5.9 = .11d, Crest Jewel is only a 5.5). The location is, well, on the rim of the coolest valley in the world.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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How about Kor's and Komito's old route "Mr. President," on Lumpy Ridge..?
Oh wait, that's not 5.9 anymore, is it.
The California Needles has lots of good 5.9. I like the South Face Route on The Warlock. Did I see above where someone mentioned Igor Unchained is harder than 5.9?? Wow. Keep that up and Ankles Away will be 5.13 one of these days..
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oldcragger
Trad climber
Truckee,CA
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Sidewinder in Joshua Tree is pretty fun but I'd also have to vote for Flower of High Rank and Open Book at Suicide/Taquitz.
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10b4me
Trad climber
Hell A
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I've heard The Line is just that....a very nice line.
Touch and Go in Josh is one of the best five-nines around(imo).
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leinosaur
Trad climber
burns flat, ok
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Frikkin' rad, y'all!
Igor good, Igor good!
Igor Unchained at the Needles. The road off the highway was closed, and it was well worth the extra three miles each way.
We knocked off a bunch of the others, too, on my first big trip to the "far west." It's cool to share the joy, just got back on Sunday from the three-week whirlwind.
Among many others, we got on the Mace (Sedona), White Punks on Dope & Igor Unchained (both CA Needles) then Nutcracker w/ 5.9 start, Reed's Direct, and the Crest Jewel. I'd call White Punks 5.8 and the Jewel 5.10, though.
(sigh.) What a trip. Beats today's fun of arguing personal insurance matters over the phone, all to hell! Grumble, grumble.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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p3 on Gripper
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Tahoe climber
Trad climber
a dark-green forester out west
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The Line at The Leap
Whodunit at Tahquitz
Carjacker at Mayhem
Raw Meat at ERock (sentimental reasons mostly - where I learned how to hand jam!)
-A
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Tahoe climber
Trad climber
a dark-green forester out west
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Haven't been on it, but how's regular route on Fairview?
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Sucky. One slippery move.
April Fools now that it got upgraded from 8...
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Tahoe climber
Trad climber
a dark-green forester out west
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Holy sh#t!
I almost forgot Indecent Exposure in Hueco Tanks of all places!
Epic.
-A
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adam d
climber
CA
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Ditto on Igor Unchained in the Needles. Anti-Jello Crack on Dome Rock too. Delicate slabby, THIN crack.
Pitch 4 (?) of McTech Arete in the Bugaboos...the splitter #2 camalot crack in a L facing corner over the bulge. sweet.
As for the gunks...Cruise Control at Millbrook (easy for gunks 9) Beautiful white stone. Roseland in the Nears.
My Laundry on South Astrodome in Jtree (even though it's just one move of 9...such a great route). I find I keep going back for Overseer at Hemingway.
In NH...Children's Crusade at Whitehorse. Recompense (w/beast flake) at Cathedral. The Died Laughing too...love all those Barber routes!
The 9's at the Spider's Web in the 'daks are classic too (more Barber, and great warmups for the harder stuff). Slim Pickins, On The Loose especially.
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maestro8
Trad climber
Sunnyvale, CA
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If the NE buttress of HCR is 5.9, then The Line is 4th class.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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p5 of the DNB, except that I feel it's 5.10a.
p2 of the Central Pillar of Frenzy is a good choice, but it doesn't have the "climactic finish" to make it the best ever. Maybe if you linked it with the first half of p3 we might have a real contender (but it would not make sense).
p2 of Reed's Direct is a great challenge, but it feels a little awkward, and when I escape left at the end I don't get that "triumphant" feeling that an all time classic should have.
Unconquerable Crack at Ragged Mountain in Connecticut might be a contenter - it does have a cool crux up high.
Directissima at the Gunks is not bad, either (crux at the start of the pitch, though).
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Apocalypsenow
Trad climber
Cali
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"Eli Can't Mantel," on the planet Zork. Never has been repeated.
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Jay Hack
Trad climber
bellingham, Washington
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Epinephrine in Red Rocks
Kor Ingalls on Castleton
Godzilla at Index
Penny Lane in Squamish
Touch and Go in J Tree
Favorite so far.....crux two pitches on the N. Ridge of Mt. Stuart in Wa State....lots of fun!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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A lot of folks are nominating Touch And Go, at Josh.
Hey wake up! "Best 5.9 in the universe..?" This thing is ok, but it is what, 60 feet with one 5.9 move?
The best 5.9 in the Universe better be multipitch with something for every one, not some highball boulder problem.
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Regular Route on Fairview???
Solitary Confinement, Fairview...
T2, Eldorado Canyon ???
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Lotta great stuff mentioned here, I'll second On The Lamb. I recall really enjoying Breakfast of Champions on one of them Astro Domes in JT, that route never seems to get any love though.
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Brian
climber
Cali
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I've climbed most of the routes suggested above in the Valley, the Meadows, Suicide, Tahquitz, and Cathedral...
and my vote actually does go for the final pitch of the 3rd pillar!
Great list of routes. Brings back lots and lots of fine memories.
Brian
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E.L. "One"
Big Wall climber
Lancaster, California
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If not the best....most memorable for me.....The Snaz in the Tetons. Harder and more sustained than Regular Route Fairview.
Cracko
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Rocky5000
Trad climber
Falls Church, VA
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As always, these lists betray one's personal tastes...
Third pitch of the right side of Goodrich Pinnacle on the Apron
and
The Great White Way at Stone Mountain, North Carolina.
After those my head had changed - shifted a level for a while.
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lucho
Gym climber
San Franpsycho
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STECK-SALATHE 5.9
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slobmonster
Trad climber
berkeley, ca
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I know it's slightly off-topic, but the best 5.8 (yes, that's EIGHT) pitches I've climbed in recent years are both deep in the Mokolume drainage: the eponymous pitch of Gemini Cracks (Hammer Dome), and P5 of Sands of Time (Cal Dome)
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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How about the high pitch on Yellow Spur, with the left-hand (Robbins?) traverse? That stands out in my mind, for being where it is -- the colors, big exposure, fun moves, slightly runout and the Continental Divide coming into view behind you.
Or Crescent Arch in the Meadows. I know some people don't like this but the day I did it, I thought there could not be a more excellent climb on the planet.
Back east, Recombeast is the best 5.9 I can think of in New Hampshire. The Gunks have fine candidates -- MF and Grand Central, for example, and maybe better than either is CCK Direct with left-hand finish at top. At Acadia, is there a 5.9 to beat Green Mountain Breakdown?
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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I'm with Lucho, hee-hee
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James
climber
A tent in the redwoods
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The Dike Route on Pywiak in Toulumne.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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T2's a good one, JB. Of course starting moves don't count.
Indecent Exposure is definitely up there. Gets my attention every time.
The hand crack on the last pitch of the Finger of Fate on the Titan might be the raddest 5.9 roof around, although the rest of the pitch is a bolt ladder for most people.
Double Dihedrals, nevermind where.
Sea of Holes.
Margin of Profit.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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"Penny Lane@ Smoke Bluffs, Squamish" - pretty soft 5.9, I'd say. The FA team were a bit light.
The Split Pillar at Squamish has to be fairly high on the list. Eric and Daryl graded it 5.9 - climbing in EBs, protecting it with hexes. In 1975. And it is 5.9, with one slightly harder move at the bottom. Awfully sustained 5.9, but then so are many of the routes mentioned.
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Oli
Trad climber
Fruita, Colorado
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So many factual errors in this thread, but I'll shut up for fear of seeming to be condescending.
Chiloe, the traverse left on the last pitch of Yellow Spur was done by Dave Rearick and me, prior to when Robbins and I free climbed the whole route. Yes that's a beautiful one. I think about fifty or more 5.9 climbs, maybe a hundred, in Eldorado could be considered as candidates for the best, most beautiful 5.9 in the universe. When people start listing their 5.9 favorites in Yosemite, I have done most of those, and yes they are good. But we must not be too provincial. Some of those routes cited don't even remotely compare in quality to routes outside Yosemite. While on the other hand, there are countless routes in the Valley beautifully beyond compare. I have always feared making these lists of "best," characteristic of Outside Magazine ("Best getaways," etc.), because it simply invites the masses to storm and destroy those best things. "Best secret hikes in the mountains" soon eliminates the secret element. I have avoided lists of best climbs, in my old guidebooks, for that reason of singling out those routes for mass consumption, though I realize I am guilty too of sharing information about great climbs and places. The book "50 Classic Climbs in North America" seems a good example of another invite to the crowds. I also think of pitches as like people. Each is very different. It might be less insightful to compare pitches than simply to look at each pitch as unique.
I'm up too late, so forgive the unsolicited philosophy.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Oli:
Chiloe, the traverse left on the last pitch of Yellow Spur was done by Dave Rearick and me, prior to when Robbins and I free climbed the whole route.
Yes, I thought that might be the case, which is why I wrote "(Robbins?)" in my note -- I've heard people calling it the Robbins traverse, even though it has an older story. I don't live in Colorado any more, but that's a pitch I come back to every decade or so, and it's always as cool as I remember. (The bolted straight-up variation is more forgettable, IMHO).
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Oli:
I have avoided lists of best climbs, in my old guidebooks, for that reason of singling out those routes for mass consumption,
Ah, but your list of recommended routes in the original blue guide made a wonderful project for me, my first year of climbing around Boulder.
Apart from that, I agree with your point.
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jeff leads
Sport climber
ca
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IMHO,
Some really steller 5.9's are:
Flight of the Gumby- NRG
Touch and Go- Jtree
Whodunnit- Idylwild
Jus sayin...
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Dragon with Matches
climber
Bamboo Grove
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Chiloe, that is one seriously hell of a beautiful photo of the Yellow Spur. That image pretty much sums up the Eldo in my mind.
A perfect, pointed summit; psychedelic colors on the rock; blue skies (for now); the road visible but a hundred years distant; the creek always singing; and somewhere below, nearly forgotten, a partner tiptoeing up an arete, gently (or not) asking if a bit of uprope might not be possible.
Pat, thanks for the history, great to hear about your passage with Rearick. True history notwithstanding, it's a suitably noble setting for a Colorado version of the "Robbins Traverse."
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Oli
Trad climber
Fruita, Colorado
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I like the licheny colors of the photo. I think what you're seeing, though is one of the stances, that horizontal-ish crack up above the actual airy, vertical pitch with Rearick/Ament traverse. The formation of rock you see sticking out just below and left of the road is actually the top of the Vertigo and Super Slab buttress, far below. It's hard to get perspective sometimes in photos. So the photo shows the road far below, the colorful rock, but not the actual pitch or real exposure down the Yellow Spur's steep wall. I alway set up that below a bit lower, so that I could lean over the edge and look down as my partner followed. It is such a joy to watch someone do that beautiful climbing for the first time, to discover the nice little edges. And as for the name "Robbins traverse," well Royal and I did it that way as well when we climbed the route. But I wouldn't want Rearick to be forgotten. He was one of the best climbers of his era, a brilliant free climber and stellar human being, as were most of the men and women who came from that period.
About the bolted direct finish to the pitch, it's less logical, really, than moving left, although that is in retrospect. It's not so clear that traverse goes at all, until you reach out and start feeling for holds. Rearick simply had a moment's inspiration to eliminate those bolts on the straight up way. Layton was fixated a bit on straight lines, and if you follow the continuation of the faint cracks of that pitch (or lack of continuation), you get that short, somewhat contrived bolted finish. It was right on the last move of that final bolted headwall that one day, as a 14 year old kid, snowflakes the size of eggs started hitting me in the face hard, from a storm that rushed in -- unseen from the east...
Pat
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Oli
Trad climber
Fruita, Colorado
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You make me want to go do that favorite climb again.
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wildone
climber
The Astroman of 5.9
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Three words: Phobos, Phobos, Phobos!
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Oli
Trad climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Touch 'N Go, though I admit to the bias of having done its first ascent, is really a very clean, beautiful short route. It suffers a bit from too much popularity, but the climbing is good. The first pitch is a bit of a pump right off the ground, then lovely delicate rock to a belay ledge. The slightly right-leaning inside corner above is a classic, obvious line, with one nice move after another, to the trickiest move right at the top... I can't imagine not enjoying the route.
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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You are all wrong the best 5.9s ever are at Devils Tower
1st pitch of the Cave -beware pitch two!
Walt Bailey Memorial
Assembly Line
murf
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Pat, that photo was taken looking down the traverse pitch, while I belayed from a small stance at the base of the knife-edge summit pitch. It seemed a suitably cosmic belay spot. My partner, Eric Dearing, has just finished the piton-ladder section and is starting the leftwards traverse across the face. The white runner in the photo is clipped to an ancient soft-iron peg, which you clip after the runout.
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lars johansen
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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"A Little Nukey", Power Dome, Courtright
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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Oli, there appears to be some confusion here. The "Touch 'n Go" which I jokingly referred to as a "highball boulder problem" is a short route in Josh first climbed by Matt Cox, as I recall. Obviously the route to which you refer is elsewhere..?
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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I wanna change my answer to the hand crack on Silent Line. J linked the pitches there, so I had to simul climb for a ways. In the end it was probably at least 250 feet of perfect uninterupted hand jamming way up above the Valley. THAT was definately the best 5.9 pitch I've ever been on.
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BlazeOn
Trad climber
Asheville, NC
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SuperCrack 5.9 at the New River Gorge, Beauty Mnt. Damn!
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Oli
Trad climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Radical--Thanks, man. Order em from me at big discounts.
Chiloe--I can't for some reason see the climber you're belaying, on my screen. Maybe my eyes have finally gone. I know the place in my heart, though, down to each grain of beloved sandstone...
Ksolem--OK, Touch N' Go in Eldorado Canyon was done in the 1960s. I wasn't aware of the California route. I can see why you wouldn't like that other route, though, if I haven't climbed it (hehe).
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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Actually, Oli, the route in Josh is quite fine. But no way does it make the cut for best in the universe. The one you descibe in Eldo does sound nice...
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wiclimber
Trad climber
devil's lake, wi
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Oli,
I love Touch n Go. Those first couple moves of the route, traversing left, can be tough to protect for some people. I remember threading a sling in there. Some have gotten into trouble by not protecting it well and going for the move only to sketch.
The crux move higher up (what used to the be the 2nd pitch but is now usually linked) has that nice hidden hold on the exit move with small wires at your feet. Brilliant!!
Did you do it all in one pitch on the FA or did you belay on the ledge half way up?
How fun it must have been in Eldo back then.
It's 5.8 though :), so it doesn't apply in this thread.
AK
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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A lot of wonderful climbs mentioned. Here's a nomination for East Buttress of Middle Cathedral. Not sure it beats out all the others mentioned, but hot damn it's a fine climb from start to finish.
GO
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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regular route on Fairview...
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BV
Trad climber
Reno
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Im sure it's not the best 5.9 in the UNIVERSE...
But Straight Shooter out in Red Rocks is a pretty challenging 1 pitch 5.9
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Cenotaph Corner in North Wales is pretty awesome, too. A lot of history to the route, and an amazing line. Though I guess maybe a bit harder than 5.9. And there's some pretty good 5.9s elsewhere in England, e.g. at Almscliff.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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"p2 of Reed's Direct is a great challenge, but it feels a little awkward, and when I escape left at the end I don't get that "triumphant" feeling that an all time classic should have."
Clint? Escaping the wide section? Don't do that...
The 5.9 third pitch on the left side (some OW) is a nice finish to the route too.
And I didn't even realize the second pitch of CP of F is 5.9. I thought it was 5.8. Nice pitch though.
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atchafalaya
climber
California
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Steck Salathe
Coatimundi Whiteout
Hairraiser Buttress
Travelers Buttress
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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My votes go to:
The Wasteland - Cochise Stronghold - Rated 5.8 but it's 5.9 for sure! Tricky routefinding, overhanging bulges and very few fixed anchors. The last pitch went up a overhanging prow on outrageous jugs with no bolts in sight. One of the very best routes in a very cool area. There has been a spate of new route activity in this area, chiefly by Scott Ayres. Really good looking stone abounds with amazing incut jugs everywhere.
Igor Unchained- Needles Super climbing on pitches 1 & 3. Good exposure.
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rbolton
Social climber
The home for...
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Did I see any votes for Epinephrine in Black Velvet canyon? One of my Faves.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Another vote for Igor,
but I've probably repeated Whodunit more than any other .9 I've done. If Igor was only 1-1/2 hrs away it would have Whodunit beat though.
I would place Reeds in the hardest .9 I've ever done category. Too much like work to make it a favorite. And, it's in that damn Disneyland ditch.
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Wild Bill
climber
Ca
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New Diversions is practically 5.9 too, and has it all for maximum fun: finger crack, steep face, chicken heads for slinging and cruising on.
Great photo of lower crack to knobs
(grabbed off net).
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Wild Bill
climber
Ca
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Bump, until we reach a concensus!
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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New Diversions looks like the best route ever. I saw a picture of the knob section of the climb. i did not know it had a crack section. Total classic look
I loved Reeds- i had done Tulgey Wood at devils Tower and that was a steep gnarly fist crack- after learning to trust the fisties Reeds was not so bad- one of my favorite valley routes
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AWhit
Trad climber
Bozeman, MT
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Dopey Duck, Shortoff Mt., NC. Believe It!
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Wild Bill
climber
Ca
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Hobo Dan, New Div is an all-time favorite, and even has a thin straight-in crack above the knobs.
I guess to make it 5.9 you'd maybe have to yard on a piece or two on that thin crack, but it's definitely worth the sin! Inch for inch, it's a great route.
Bill
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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Igor Unchained is right up there, per many previous posts...
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craig mo
Trad climber
L.A. Ca.
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The red dihedral Incredible Hulk
Epinephrine
The Line lovers leap
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donnyji
Social climber
Washinton, DC
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I'm gonna have to go with On The Lamb, on Lamb Dome.
Plenty of climbs listed here I might like more depending on my mood though.
I usually post as davidji, but I'm travelling, and made a new account to post.
Didn't look at every post to see who resurrected this thread, but good call!
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michaellane
climber
Spokane (spo-KAN), WA
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A few to consider:
Flower ... Suicide
Open Book ... Tahquitz
Dave's Deviation ... Tahquitz
Colorado Crack ... Josh
Reed's ... Yosemite
The Dihedral ... Minnehaha (props? anyone?)
--ML
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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the problem is there are so many stellar climbs at that grade ....
So far I'm going with Atch's list, though Coatimundi is a sandbag and I haven't done Hairraiser (how is that possible?)
If we go back to single pitches, Lower progressive, Fall Wall, Elevator, and Climb & Punishment (unless it's a .10a that week) at Vedauwoo are ones you won't confuse with anything else. As are the slightly longer, Tulgey wood (3 pitches) and Soler (2, or a boulder prob) at Devil's tower.
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