Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 5 of total 5 in this topic |
Mike Ierien
Trad climber
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 1, 2009 - 12:28am PT
|
This is sorta long, so grab a cold one and read on...
Here's the facts: Yesterday, while climbing "West Crack" on DAFF Dome, a party of three had to bail from nearly 3 pitches up due to driving rain. At any rate, while rapping off, one rope got stuck, so having no choice, they left it and continued down. They left some gear in the upper finger crack. Unfortunately, they also left their rope on the first pitch anchors as in their haste for shelter, they forgot to check the knot and, yes, it got stuck on the first pitch anchors.
More facts: Today, a buddy and myself went to do the route. You see, we were waiting behind the party of three yesterday and decided that the hour was getting late, so we split without getting on the route. This morning we were first in line and jumped on it. On the way in this guy asks us what route we were gonna get on. I recognized him from yesterday and told him that we weren't interested in his gear, just wanted to do the route.
Still with me? Good, 'cause there's a bit more...
As I'm bringing my buddy up the first pitch, the wind picks up and clouds stack up. We decide to continue. The guy who was leading (nearly guiding actually, without the $$$$) yesterday fires the first pitch and we chat at the belay. It's getting colder and he asks if I can grab the gear they left yesterday. Of course, I tell him. His name is Eliot and he's a very good guy. He offers me the freaking shirt of his back, no sh#t, as I was in a t-shirt, but I decline the shirt. I do however, take him up on his offer of his beanie. After bringing his buddy up, they bail. But they wait at the base to make sure that we don't die.
As I'm leading the finger crack toward the top, I come across the stuck rope. Wouldn't you know it, but it's just the very tip stuck behind a crystal in the crack. I tug mightly and it finally pops free (hey, I never said that I was strong). I let it down to my partner at the belay and tell him to toss it down. I continue up removing the last (top) anchor that Eliot had to leave in order to save his and his friend's lives. My friend seconds the pitch, but leaves the anchor that Eliot left yesterday. My friend and I finish the route in the rain and scurry for our jackets and hats at the base (yeah, I know good place for 'em. Never said that I was the sharpest knife in the drawer either). True to his word, Eliot was there calling out to us to make sure we made it back safely.
Here's where helping a brother out comes in...
If anyone grabs the gear on the route, including the two ropes, please get it back to Elliot. Email him at eliot.carlsen@hotmail.com
We all know that things could have been done differently, but things happen in the mountains and Eliot did what had to be done to get himself and his two other partners down safely in a driving rainstorm. Hopefully, Eliot can get his gear back from another brother or sister.
|
|
climbrunride
Trad climber
Durango, CO
|
|
"(hey, I never said that I was strong)"
I'll say it - you're strong!
BUMP for a good cause.
I'd be happy to go climb it by moonlight tonight, if I was lucky enough to be there.
|
|
Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
|
|
We finished our route the other day in time to drive back to camp but saw the party half way up West Crack, apparently hatin' it!
Hope things turn out as best they can
Peace
Karl
|
|
Mike Ierien
Trad climber
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2009 - 12:56am PT
|
I got Eliot's email wrong.
It's eliot_carlsen@hotmail.com
Thanks for the help. Stay safe everyone.
|
|
jmc27
Trad climber
Bay Area, CA
|
|
my friend is planning on climbing that route in the am. i'll let him know to pull the gear and get it back to its respective owner asap.
we'll be in the palisades til sunday so i'll post then if they were able to get it.
|
|
| Messages 1 - 5 of total 5 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!