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| Messages 1 - 11 of total 11 in this topic |
pierceinveracity
Trad climber
DS - LT
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 29, 2009 - 06:02pm PT
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Any benefit in using a 60m over a 50m on this route?
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Gene
climber
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Jun 29, 2009 - 06:20pm PT
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I first did SD in '72. I think 50m ropes were standard then. Looking at the ST topo, if you belay at the first set of double bolts directly after the P2 traverse, you *should* be good to go.
Have fun.
gm
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pierceinveracity
Trad climber
DS - LT
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 29, 2009 - 06:29pm PT
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Gene, eKat - that what I thought but wasn't sure. Thanks for saving me some weight! p
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dmalloy
Trad climber
eastside
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Jun 29, 2009 - 06:57pm PT
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people still have 50m ropes that have not been turned into rugs, ski tows, tie downs or tire swings?
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Gene
climber
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Jun 29, 2009 - 07:02pm PT
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Yeah. 60 or 70m cords with a core shot close to one end.
Wanna buy a 45m line? I think I have one.
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Cracko
Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
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Jun 29, 2009 - 07:07pm PT
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I love the fact that every time somebody posts up with a Snake Dike question the switchboard lights up with responses. I too climbed SD a few years ago with a 60m rope, and had no problem until I cluelessly climbed through a belay station and had to disassemble my cordelette and tie it onto my lead line to make it to the next mid-pitch bolt. Should have just simul-climbed, but Jackobro would have none of it !! Hey, it's Snake Dike....any rope will do.
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Jun 29, 2009 - 07:31pm PT
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We did it with a 60m x 9.4mm rope in eight pitches. I guess with a 50 you would have to use different belays on the first two pitches, but it looks like it works out to the same number of pitches.
Hmm, maybe next time I will bring my 50m x 8.5mm !
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mikemikaels
climber
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Jun 30, 2009 - 07:19pm PT
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I found out the hard way my chopped rope was not 50m (165') but 140'. One pitch is 160', bring one at least that long, and it will be easy.
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Radish
Trad climber
Seki, California
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Jun 30, 2009 - 07:32pm PT
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Yes, a long rope is real nice to have. I have one question bout Snake Dike myself that maybe someone will answer.......After the first pitch the next pitch ,I think, goes right and over. I did it straight up off route.....Went over a bluge that felt really hard with little pro....anyone know what that's rated...I'm sure someone else has made that mistake too????
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jun 30, 2009 - 08:26pm PT
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after the first pitch you went straight up Radish?
over the bulge lip thing? you didn't walk to the right on the flakes?
looks like good climbing, but yeah, no pro.
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davidji
Social climber
CA
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Both times I climbed it, we did it in 3 pitches with a 60m half-rope. We used the rope as a single to get to the dike in 2 pitches. Don't think you could with a 50, but not sure. Then when we were on the dike, we doubled the rope, and used it like twins to do the rest as one long pitch. You can't do it that way with a 50: you'd be soloing tied together as you leave the dike. Half a 60m rope is just long enough for leader to get pro in before follower unclips the final bolts.
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| Messages 1 - 11 of total 11 in this topic |
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