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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Jun 25, 2009 - 12:35am PT
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Zander
Super enjoyed your posting and I hate to take up too much with a non climbing topic so if you go to our website you can get an idea of what we have been doing the past years when not in the mountains: www. shanachie.org
cheers
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couchmaster
climber
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Jun 25, 2009 - 01:01am PT
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Thanks Clint and Zander. I'd heard it perhaps like 20 years ago, but never got it confirmed anywhere else. Glad I only headed up with a single rope that one time! Bob and I, upon hearing this new single rope rap had been installed off the Oasis somewhere "theory" had only a single rope and rappelled from somewhere above Lucifers when we got off route and got lost going for the Oasis. We didn't find the single rope rap then, and I always took a second rope and rapped the route we were on afterwords. Coonyard has like 14 full length raps I think, I suppose there is that many on Lucifers give or take. The ...many, many ...single rope raps on that one trip up above Lucifers, on occasion off a single 1/4" er mid-pitch if we couldn't find a crack to leave gear (common), was very very scary and just outright sucked.
Guido, nice to see the Hinterlands topo!
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2009 - 05:54pm PT
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Hey Guido,
Feel free to hijack any of my threads.
I really enjoyed poking around on your site. Looks like you have been having a great life. I like the google page that shows where you've been sailing lately.
Zander
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jun 27, 2009 - 12:01pm PT
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"Coonyard has like 14 full length raps I think, I suppose there is that many on Lucifers give or take. "
You can't rap Lucifer's to the Oasis. At least one anchor is a single fixed angle with no rings or slings. That route is death and I've been stupid enough to go there twice!
Peace
Karl
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jun 29, 2009 - 08:53pm PT
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Well it's been a LONG time since I did Goodrich to the Oasis. I'm sure we went up the left side of that big block. I remember that as being pretty sketchy for a bit.
From the top we traversed quite a long way to the west. I believe we stayed high.
There was/is? a Rorher chains rap route which goes/went? down to the East (climber's left) of Coonyard Pinnacle. I'm pretty sure of that for two reasons: I had climbed Coonyard not long before so knew where that route is, and also because the old Meyer's guide (blue) shows the rap route.
Each station was 2 large bolts and chains with rap links
Climber Beware: it doesn't sound as if anyone can vouch for this rap route these days.
It DID require 2 - 50 meter ropes. A couple of the raps took us within 2 or 3 feet of the rope ends. A couple of raps ended on the blank wall, no stance.
I've always wanted to get back up there, either via Goodrich or Coonyard to Oasis.
Slightly OT: I've read some s**t on this site about the condition of the bolts on Coonyard. It wasn't well protected in the first place. Part of the adventure: Leader shan't fall (and neither should the follower) on the traverse.
Anyone been up there lately?
(new thread time)?
Fred
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Jun 30, 2009 - 12:25am PT
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Zander - Great TR
Thanks for the photos.. inspiring looking route
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couchmaster
climber
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Jun 30, 2009 - 12:42am PT
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T*R, I think that Karl means that the section above Lucifer's Ledge that goes to the Oasis, even if we had had 2 ropes, it's not equipped or set up for rapping.
Karl said: You can't rap Lucifer's to the Oasis. At least one anchor is a single fixed angle with no rings or slings. That route is death and I've been stupid enough to go there twice!
To Lucifer's Ledge via the Point Beyond use to be my favorite apron route, but we only tried for the Oasis that way once. You might have seen some of our gear we left. Glacier Point, as it turns out, is not totally devoid of cracks which do magically appear here or there in a crisis, and of course, there is always the single 1/4'er you find on the route, just leave a biner and it's a rap point. Voila! LOL!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jun 30, 2009 - 03:03am PT
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Fred,
Roger Brown and I worked on replacing bolts on Coonyard Pinnacle and vicinity in summer 2008. You can read more about it at:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=659883&tn=0
Tom Rohrer's rappel anchors there are still in fine shape - they were built to last:
In summer 2007, we worked on the Angel's Approach / Lucifer's Ledge area and everything below. (When I say "we", this really means I spent one day helping fix ropes for Roger, and then he spent weeks replacing all the original bolts he could reach).
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=441303
In summer 2009 Roger is already at work on the East side of the Apron - as of Friday Bob Steed and I advanced the fixed lines to a high point at the start of the final traverse on Ochre Fields, and Roger is replacing everything within reach below.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Jun 30, 2009 - 06:08am PT
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hey there, say zander! ... these are wonderful and crisp clean pictures! ... really nice... not sure if i overlooked it somehow, but say, who took the pics?...
great trip report... course i dont understand some of the pitch info, etc... but i sure loved reading it...
really nice... wow, sure looked like a great day!
very blue sky, too... and nice looking rock...
i loved the waterwalls.. and i really liked that rock, where the "vear off the left" was mentioned (did i get that right?)....
i just loved the way the boulder-shape rock looked on the long steep rock.. and the bits of grass...
oh well, i am an artist, not a climber... (though i love to hike, yet its all "art" to me) ... :)
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scuffy b
climber
Sinatra to Singapore
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Jun 30, 2009 - 11:47am PT
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t*r
Goodrich to the Oasis is the name of the route.
But first, you have to climb the route Goodrich Pinnacle
then climb further, to the Oasis.
On Glacier Point Apron, numerous climbs are sort of built on
one another.
For example, Goodrich, Coonyard Pinnacle, and Lucifer's Ledge
are climbs in their own right, but they have had extensions
added: G to Oasis, C to Oasis, L to Oasis...
"can't rap Lucifer's to Oasis" means that if you want to rappel
from the Oasis, you should aim for something like Goodrich,
instead of Lucifer's.
Goodrich Pinnacle was named in honor of Don Goodrich, who died
at Mt. Conness.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 30, 2009 - 03:31pm PT
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Hi Neebee,
Glad you liked the pics. I took all of them except when we were sitting on the ledge eating lunch and I could hand the camera to Bob. It sure was a spectacularly beautiful day!
Zander
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Way to go, Z-bro!
I really want to do GH, wait, it's a slab climb, did I say that?
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Did Galactic Hitchiker yesterday. Going pretty quickly with a fit partner (that made one of us) took 9 hours
GH anchor all have tatters for webbing now and the few pin anchors need bolts instead. The first ascent party intended to add more bolts to the Olympic wall on pitches 18, 19, and 20 but never got back there. Somebody who bolts ought to step up cause it would be very easy and bad to fall in several places on pitch 19.
Otherwise, it's all sweet. Getting warm up there so make sure it's not a heat wave day
Peace
Karl
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Ken Zemach
Trad climber
Redwood City, CA
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Cripes Karl, you are a madman. Doesn't that make like #4 for you on Galactic? I mean, it was nice to knock it off and all, but I didn't think it was THAT good. And yes, those pitches definitely need bolts. Definitely. By the way, do you free the whole thing? There's a pitch near the VERY top that we found MF hard. I aided.
For a good workout, I prefer Royal Arches to Crest Jewel Direct...
For the rest of you who are more sane, I would say that up to the Oasis is a fine addition to Goodrich; you can go up as far as you want. Definitely one to put in your tick list. Past the Oasis, it really needs those bolts to be added to feel as safe and fun as the prior numerous pitches.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Dude, it's more like 6-8 times.
But a lot of my climbs are supporting the goals of my partners, and it's great to do a long route with a short approach too.
Done Royal Arches so many times, I don't know if it's 50 or 100+
Peace
Karl
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