Galibier Super Guides

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Messages 1 - 36 of total 36 in this topic
Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 23, 2009 - 10:25am PT
The "Best climbing shoe" thread got me to thinking, and then appreciating my old Super Guides. I don't know if they still make them (it's google time) but they were among the best mountain boots.

Who's with me on this?



I wish I still had them but they got lost somewhere in the moves from the US to Europe back to the US back to Europe etc etc.

eKat

Mountain climber
BITD2
Jun 23, 2009 - 10:26am PT
Hear! Hear!

Can't tell ya how many hundreds of things I did in mine. . . they lasted for DECADES!

:-)

AND IT HAVE WEIRD FEET.

eKat
Robb

Social climber
It's like FoCo in NoCo Daddy-O!
Jun 23, 2009 - 10:32am PT
I had a pair of Makalu's (sp?). They were awesome!
rockermike

Mountain climber
Jun 23, 2009 - 10:50am PT
The only time I have ever felt like a man was when I was wearing my Super-Guides. They were definitely some sh#t kicking boots. Must of weighed 7 lbs each. ha
My latest replacement (Scarpa Omegas - double plastic) weigh 4 lb 2 oz a pair. Nice for climbing but they just don't feel the same.
TwistedCrank

climber
Ideeho-dee-do-dah-day
Jun 23, 2009 - 10:53am PT
I used to jog in the Yosemite backcounty in mine.

Then I'd stop and eat some gravel for lunch and drink my urine to quench my thirst.

Man those Super Guides were it. The first sole had that "M" pattern in the middle instead of the Vibram plus.

Some real shitkickers those.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jun 23, 2009 - 10:58am PT
Superguides were for lightweights. Us real men wore Trappeur double boots.
Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 23, 2009 - 11:09am PT
Jeez Ghost, I had a pair of those Trappeur boots, with the little 'gaiter' top so to speak. They were very good but Super Guides were the best.
Ain't no flatlander

climber
Jun 23, 2009 - 11:11am PT
Nice until the steel shanks cracked. Just weighed mine: a pair of 10.5's weighs 5 lbs 15 oz. By comparison, a Sportiva Trango Plus is 4 lbs 3 oz. And a Lowa Cristallo is 6 lbs. 14 oz.

Yes, you can still get SG's from France.
Ottawa Doug

Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
Jun 23, 2009 - 11:34am PT
Had a pair of Super Guides in the early 80's, and a pair of Makalu's in the late 70's.

Both awesome boots.
Reilly

Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
Jun 23, 2009 - 11:35am PT
Still have my Peutereys. I preferred them to Super Guides as there was more ankle freedom for the fancy footwork I was reknowned for, lol. Still have my Makalus and my Bunny boots too.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jun 23, 2009 - 11:40am PT
I had a pair of those Trappeur boots, with the little 'gaiter' top so to speak. They were very good but Super Guides were the best.

Yeah, sure, if you were a girly-man whose idea of mountaineering was prancing up some peak in California.

Ha ha. Seriously though, I agree, the SG's were great boots. They didn't fit my feet, but a lot of my partners wore them and were happy.

However, when the temps dropped, none of the singles could really cut it, and double boots (like my three-hundred-pounds-per-pair Trappeurs) came into their own. The advent of plastic doubles sparked a huge revolution in winter climbing.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Jun 23, 2009 - 11:50am PT
Reilly,

I'm with you in all respects. I not only still have mine, I still use them (sometimes with the original Chouinard stiff crampons). Great mountain boots!

John
Gene

climber
Jun 23, 2009 - 12:56pm PT
Puetereys - love mine. They need sole repair and weigh a ton, but have been good friends to my feet forever. Of course, it also took forever to break them in. Still love 'em. Strap on the Salewas and go.

gm
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jun 23, 2009 - 01:09pm PT
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=765905&tn=0
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Jun 23, 2009 - 01:22pm PT
I had a pair of Galibier Terray boots--very similar to the super guide, but they had a fold over type of closure, where the
superguides had the different type, sort of closed on both sides. Mine were heavy duty, and eventually just wore them
out. What great boots they were.
I also had a pair of Makalu's that I learned ice climbing on
Mt Washington in. Good boots too--until I started wearing Scarpa boots, the best fit I ever had was with Galibier.
Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 23, 2009 - 01:29pm PT
Tarbuster, I didn't realize that there was a similar thread.

I had a pair of Peutereys as well. Galibier made some great boots but so did Lowa, Trappeur etc.


three-hundred-pounds-per-pair Trappeurs


Jaysus, ain't that the truth. Those things weighed a ton.
fattrad

Mountain climber
GOP Convention
Jun 23, 2009 - 01:40pm PT
Couldn't fit the SG's, wore Lowa Alpspitz.


The evil one
Piton Ron

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Jun 23, 2009 - 01:45pm PT
Still have both my SGs and my Trappeur single boots with that supple leather lining and the wood midsoles (more insulating than metal).
RDB

Social climber
way out there
Jun 23, 2009 - 02:26pm PT
You can still buy Super Guides from Richard Pontvert in France. Prices are comparable to any quality modern mtn boot.

My old SGs, in almost new condition, size 11, weigh 2# 15.8 oz on a US postal scale. My Nepal Evos in a 45 (11.5) weigh in at 2# 10.7 oz. So not much difference really in weight. 5oz a boot...10 oz a pair.

Stiffness on the other hand...Super Guides have a very stiff ankle....which is why we lovedd them on ice and a slightly flexiable sole when you get up to my sizes. Flexible soles broke Chouinard rigids on ice. But why we loved them on rock for the close fit and lwt weight. The Nepal Evo on the other hand has a slightly more flexible ankle and a dead rigid sole and are obviously a lot warmer just by the extra volume over the SGs. Cold feet were always a possibility in SGs :)

Some really hard mixed alpine climbs even by today's standards were done in SGs and Salewa flexible crampons. Still a good combo if you look at what is being used now.

Some of the other Sportiva mountain boots like the Trango Evo will weigh in at 2# 4oz on a 45 or the Prime at 2# 3oz. All the weights are for one boot.

White Kolfachs in size 12 were 2# 10oz per boot.

Hard to place the Super Guide with the modern speciality boots these days. The Nepal Evo could easily be compared to the old Makalu/Hivernal for warmth, still stiffer in every way and almost 10oz lighter than the SG per pair. It is an improvement overall.

Love to have a boot just like the Super Guide built with modern materials but with a dead rigid sole and that same super stiff leather ankle. Nepal Evo is close but but not quite there. I might be the only one left wanting a stiffer ankle mtn boot.

All it would take is being able to sew a leather boot to a plastic mid sole.





TGT

Social climber
So Cal
Jun 23, 2009 - 02:44pm PT
My first boots were a pair of Galibier Terray's. Sort of the old school equivalent to Trangos.

Had the name of the guy that made them stitched into the label.

I went thru about eight sets of soles on those boots (mostly doing the resole jobs myself)and then turned them into home made telemark ski boots after the shank cracked and I made a replacement composite one. One final crash finally destroyed them separating the sole from the upper.

They don't make 'em like they used to.

Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Jun 23, 2009 - 03:39pm PT
I had a pair of Peutereys that are as burly as a cast iron pot. Unfortunately, they were as heavy as one too. Still sitting somewhere in the garage. I remember hiking into the Palisades with those babies and being totally baked. Definitely made for the guys with big quads and glutes, which ain't me.
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Jun 23, 2009 - 04:03pm PT
I love my Super Guides;.....I felt invincible in them.....trail blazing, stomping, sh#t-kickin' post-holing, front pointing Super Guides.......I would put them on, chew on some broken glass, and then throw some raw meat on the cement porch gobble it up uncooked.......Almost everytime I wore those Super Guides,...I got laid....(Big boots......big weiner unit)...wierd that something made it FRANCE could have The Power.................
If you want a pair;...name your price, pay for shipping, and they are yours...........size 10 1/2 to 11.........
Are you man enough for the Super Guides or do you need the Lady Koflach?.....
These bad-boys have seen alot of rock/snow/ice, and are still mint...........best shoes on the planet, hands down......

donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jun 23, 2009 - 04:10pm PT
Super Guides totally sucked for me. They were about the only thing available and had a small toe box that nearly did me in. In mountain boots fit is EVERYTHING!
can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
Jun 23, 2009 - 05:05pm PT
My first pair of climbing shoes were SGs. I got them as a high school graduation present and took them to Germany with me when I went in the army and used them in the local klettergardens. This was in 73 and it seemed all the Germans used some sort of mtn boot at their local crags. I also picked up a pair of the Super Pros, the one's with the PVC toecaps. I think I still have both pair somewhere

Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jun 23, 2009 - 05:13pm PT
I'm not sure whether this says more about Squamish rock, about Super Guides, or about my friend John, but one day I belayed him as he led a horrifically run-out 10b slab in SGs. No pro, so groundfall potentiall the whole way. Just those hard vibram soles edging on tiny crystals.

Sick.
Dolomite

climber
Anchorage
Jun 23, 2009 - 05:13pm PT
What Donini said. I got a good fit in a pair of Lowa Civettas that I owned for 35 years before I tossed them. I once owned a pair of Makalus that hurt my feet so bad I deliberately left them in Huaraz because I knew if I brought em back, being a cheap s.o.b. I'd bs myself into wearing them again.
Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
Jun 23, 2009 - 10:54pm PT
Couldn't fit in Galibier, (except my first rock shoes Calcaires.) So my first ice boots were Meindl Glockners.
hobo_dan

Social climber
Minnesota
Jun 24, 2009 - 01:28pm PT
I had a pair of SuperPro's
The last time I wore them we walked out of Titcomb Basin to the Parking lot in a day. The weather went bad so the idea was we would get out and have a pizza that night
Too far and too exhausted to eat anything after that walk!
BUT I was amazed at how far you could travel just staggering one foot in front of the other- just like Frankie used to do in the movies
eKat

Mountain climber
BITD2
Jun 24, 2009 - 01:33pm PT
When I was instructing for OB, I wore my Galibier Vercors. . . they had pretty good flex for all that frikken angle of repose stuff up in the PacificNorthwest. . . up a volcano, down a volcano, up one side and down the other, over and over and over and over. . . .

YIKES.

I liked those boots, though.

I had THEE gnarliest callouses on my heels. . . they had to be a quarter of an inch thick. . . PRETTY.

:-)

eKat
johntp

Trad climber
socal
Jun 24, 2009 - 07:31pm PT
Good boots. Did a lot of my first ice routes with those and SMC rigids. Good times.
Mar'

Trad climber
Fanta Se
Jun 24, 2009 - 09:06pm PT
Oooh— Superpros! I wasn't a god then, but now that I'm a ghost €∫;D… I saw real superpros for $160 at Robbin's store in the olden days! I did get a set of the Arlberg-things for skiing there. You could strap them on to yer Galibier dbl Makalus, I loved those too. Purdiest boots when they was all frosty on the outside and summer on the inside!

I always shoe-gooed the Superguide toes and wore out two pair. Even created fiberglass laminate shanks when the steels cracked and had Rick Wheeler re-assemble them.

I use Scarpa Freneys now— the earlier blue-suede version. Thats the closest I've gotten to superpros 'cause those have a rubber toe-cap and they are the nimblest little ice-boot I've ever used.

When we'd hike in to the Palisades we'd wear flip-flops and pack the SGs. Remember the dope Sacs Millets w/ the trick zippered bottom part for boots? I didn't have one but it seemed like a cool idea.

When we hiked in to the Palisades in the Fall we'd wear flip-flops and carry the SGS!!

Once I skied down the Devil's Slide Trail down to Humber Park wearing SGs and the little Salewa 120 glacier skis. I almost ruined my ankle when I got hung up on some rocks sticking out of the icy rutted luge-run near the bottom.

I had to tape it for six months and couldn't stand on the outside of my foot for two years. That was when I bought my first pair of real plastic Dynafit Tourlite rando-boots. Now when I ski in single ice-boots I tele-turn (with fixed heels).

It's no problem linking turns in all kinds of conditions in those supple little ice-boots— it's just a matter of leaning back and forth to find the sweet-spot for exactly what I happen to be turning in as conditions change. Yep …fixed-heel tele!
TMJesse

Mountain climber
Olympia, WA
Jun 24, 2009 - 10:11pm PT
My second pair of Super Guides. I had a pair in high school, but sold them because I couldn’t hike well in them – too stiff. I switched out to a pair of Vercours (another great boot). Then in 1980, I bought another pair at the 5th Season in Mt Shasta on sale, and they worked beautifully for climbing the mountain, which I did twice that summer while working for the Forest Service nearby. After that summer, the boots sat around and rarely got used. I kept them “just in case,” and I just loved to have them, even if they rarely got used. They were beautiful and smelled great. I would go though at least one pair of heavy hiking boots a season, sometimes two, working backcountry in Yosemite from 1982 on, but my barely-used Super Guides just took up space in my storage unit, wherever that was.

Then in 1987 while a grad student at Chico, I needed cash and decided to sell some gear, and the Super Guides got put up for sale along with a bunch of other nearly worn out stuff. I put up a 5x7 card up at student union, and calls came in for various stuff, including an inquiry about the Super Guides. The guy wanting the Super Guides said he was looking for some hiking boots, and I informed him that these boots were not a good choice for hiking. He decided to come over anyway and see them. Well, he tried them on and tromped around in my front yard before taking them off and telling me he didn’t have any money. I again reminded him that these were not hiking boots anyway, but meant for snow and ice. Hiking in them would hurt your feet and nearly cripple you after a few miles. He went on his way.

A week or so passed and he called again. Wanted to come over and talk about the Super Guides. By this time, I was getting sick of this gear dude wanting to bug me about boots he didn’t need and shouldn’t buy, but money talks, so I figured he would simply come over and buy them.

He shows up and tries to trade me a bunch of junk gear I didn’t need for the boots! And of course he wanted to look at them again, try them on and so forth. Talk about a tire kicker! I shooed him off after rejecting his offer – I needed cash, not a Boy Scout pack and a pup tent!

Again, another call came in from the “gear dude.” this time he had the $125 I was asking for the Super Guides in near perfect condition. He showed up and I kept it short, but gave him the warning about their use one more time – “these are not for hiking and backpacking, they’ll kill your feet.” At least I got my money and the guy was permanently on his way, so I thought.

That summer, I resumed my coveted job with Yosemite Backcountry, and was headed to the Mt. Lyell area for a week of clean up and “patrol.” I had learned that the best way to make time heading up Lyell Canyon was to hike the opposite side of the river than the trail. That way, all you had to do is wave at the hikers rather than stop and chat for 20 minutes a pop. If there were an emergency, they would let you know. So instead of 5 or 6 hours of chitchatting with all the hikers on the PCT/JMT, I was nearly all the way to Kuna Creek area in about 3 hours. I crossed where some pack outfit was ruining the meadow with their stock, gave them a talk, and proceeded along.

As soon as I hit the trail, everyone I ran into told me of a poor soul up ahead unable to walk due to his boots, blisters or something horrible. I ran into 3 or 4 parties with the same sad report when I came upon the victim: the gear geek who bought my Super Guides! This is a true story. I flat out told him that he had been aptly warned not to use the boots for hiking or they would render his feet useless after a few miles, and here he was. Now temporarily crippled from the boots and his stupidity, I informed him of his options: either wait out the pain right there for a few days and hike out; or, I could radio in an order for a Curry packer to come pick him up – at his expense. This was not an emergency, and he was on his own. Despite being flat out pathetic, the guy was truly embarrassed. He declined the offer to call for a Curry packer, and I went on my way.

I’ve told this story numerous times, but never had a reason to write it down until now. . . .


hobo_dan

Social climber
Minnesota
Jun 25, 2009 - 07:54pm PT
The day I bought the Super Pro's I wanted to start breaking them in so I wore them to my night school Drafting class (a classic loser move!). This guy starts up a conversation and asks if i climb- I forgot what I said but HE was definitely a CLIMBER!- He had just done Mt. Huntington and the Roosters Comb that year. I think his name was Dave or Richard Something- used to live in Seattle and was back home in Minneapolis trying to get it together- Year was about 1978-79.
TYeary

climber
Jun 25, 2009 - 09:21pm PT
Got a pair in '72 or '73. Still use them ocasionally. They've been to the Bugs, Sierra, Mexican Volcanos, and the Cascades. Like old friends. These days they make a trip up Baldy now and then. Still feel great.
Ray-J

Social climber
cali
Jun 25, 2009 - 10:13pm PT
I destroyed 2 pairs...horrendous boots. :)
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jun 25, 2009 - 10:25pm PT
Jesse, that is a flat out perfect story.
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